Quick question about cutting board glue-ups.....and any glue-ups for that
matter. I just made a board from several strips of birdseye and curly maple
17" X 12" I used Titebond III water proof glue......I used lots of glue on
each side of each strip( was a mess to clean-up the squeeze out ) and
clamped the hell out of it. After 24hrs it a couple of the strips have air
gaps.....is it possible to clamp TOO tight and force the glue out causing
the gaps, and if so, canit be fixed?
To SB.........Food grade mineral oil was recommended to us and we have used
it for years on cutting boards....the manufacturer we use is "Tree
Safe".....any kitchen store should carry it. Just my two cents worth...
Thanks in advance!
Frank
Hi Frank,
If you did not joint the edges, it is likely that they were not
perfectly flat - even if they were "factory edges". The boards should
have almost invisible seams when you line them up before applying glue
and clamps. You should not have to use abnormal clamp pressure - which
may squeeze a lot of the glue out.
Lou
In article <kkuld.692$2V4.635@trndny06>, Frank & Renee
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Quick question about cutting board glue-ups.....and any glue-ups for that
> matter. I just made a board from several strips of birdseye and curly maple
> 17" X 12" I used Titebond III water proof glue......I used lots of glue on
> each side of each strip( was a mess to clean-up the squeeze out ) and
> clamped the hell out of it. After 24hrs it a couple of the strips have air
> gaps.....is it possible to clamp TOO tight and force the glue out causing
> the gaps, and if so, canit be fixed?
>
> To SB.........Food grade mineral oil was recommended to us and we have used
> it for years on cutting boards....the manufacturer we use is "Tree
> Safe".....any kitchen store should carry it. Just my two cents worth...
>
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
>
> Frank
>
>
Can't cause gaps with clamps. That comes from poorly straightened surfaces.
Since a lot of people make boards out of scraps and trims, they sometimes
forget the planer snipe. Don't know if that's your case.
No such thing as "food grade" mineral oil except in advertisespeak.
Laxative mineral oil (USP) is the stuff most buy. As noted, best when it's
not there.
"Frank & Renee" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:kkuld.692$2V4.635@trndny06...
> Quick question about cutting board glue-ups.....and any glue-ups for that
> matter. I just made a board from several strips of birdseye and curly
maple
> 17" X 12" I used Titebond III water proof glue......I used lots of glue on
> each side of each strip( was a mess to clean-up the squeeze out ) and
> clamped the hell out of it. After 24hrs it a couple of the strips have air
> gaps.....is it possible to clamp TOO tight and force the glue out causing
> the gaps, and if so, canit be fixed?
>
> To SB.........Food grade mineral oil was recommended to us and we have
used
> it for years on cutting boards....the manufacturer we use is "Tree
> Safe".....any kitchen store should carry it. Just my two cents worth...
>
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
>
> Frank
>
>
"Frank & Renee" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:kkuld.692$2V4.635@trndny06...
> Quick question about cutting board glue-ups.....and any glue-ups for that
> matter. I just made a board from several strips of birdseye and curly
> maple
> 17" X 12" I used Titebond III water proof glue......I used lots of glue on
> each side of each strip( was a mess to clean-up the squeeze out ) and
> clamped the hell out of it.
This is the first problem. No glue joint should ever need the hell clamped
out of it. Clamps should be used just to hold the glue surfaces in contact
until the glue dries. This requires not a lot of clamp pressure for
properly done joints.
>After 24hrs it a couple of the strips have air
> gaps.....
I suspect this is why the hell was clamped out of them right? :)
>is it possible to clamp TOO tight and force the glue out causing
> the gaps, and if so, canit be fixed?
>
The solution to your problem is properly fitted joinery. Your joints should
go together with no visible gaps without any clamps. Do not ever count on
clamp pressure to make up for poorly done joinery, it will fail in the not
too distant future.
Frank
Had a lot of inexpensive maple scrap and made cutting boards almost the size
of yours. I jointed the edges of the strips before gluing them (Titebond
III) together, however, I did not have any problems with gaps nor was it
necessary to really clamp the wood that tightly. To save time, I made two
cutting boards at once (creating a 12" x 35" plank) and after gluing, I ran
it thru the planer before cutting the boards to finish size. By working
with longer strips, it was easier to joint and glue them, so you might give
it a try.
Good Luck,
TEF
"loutent" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:131120041550518983%[email protected]...
> Hi Frank,
>
> If you did not joint the edges, it is likely that they were not
> perfectly flat - even if they were "factory edges". The boards should
> have almost invisible seams when you line them up before applying glue
> and clamps. You should not have to use abnormal clamp pressure - which
> may squeeze a lot of the glue out.
>
> Lou
>
> In article <kkuld.692$2V4.635@trndny06>, Frank & Renee
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Quick question about cutting board glue-ups.....and any glue-ups for
that
> > matter. I just made a board from several strips of birdseye and curly
maple
> > 17" X 12" I used Titebond III water proof glue......I used lots of glue
on
> > each side of each strip( was a mess to clean-up the squeeze out ) and
> > clamped the hell out of it. After 24hrs it a couple of the strips have
air
> > gaps.....is it possible to clamp TOO tight and force the glue out
causing
> > the gaps, and if so, canit be fixed?
> >
> > To SB.........Food grade mineral oil was recommended to us and we have
used
> > it for years on cutting boards....the manufacturer we use is "Tree
> > Safe".....any kitchen store should carry it. Just my two cents worth...
> >
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> >
> >
> > Frank
> >
> >
I don't think it's possible to clamp too tight and "starve" a glue
joint. I do believe it's possible to apply too much pressure to far
apart and cause distortion in the pieces being glued (particularly if
they're narrow) and result in separation when the clamping pressure is
removed. If you're gluing up narrow strips, either use a lot of clamps
and keep them close together or use some heavy cauls to make sure there
is no distortion in your narrow strips.
bob g.
Frank & Renee wrote:
> Quick question about cutting board glue-ups.....and any glue-ups for that
> matter. I just made a board from several strips of birdseye and curly maple
> 17" X 12" I used Titebond III water proof glue......I used lots of glue on
> each side of each strip( was a mess to clean-up the squeeze out ) and
> clamped the hell out of it. After 24hrs it a couple of the strips have air
> gaps.....is it possible to clamp TOO tight and force the glue out causing
> the gaps, and if so, canit be fixed?
>
> To SB.........Food grade mineral oil was recommended to us and we have used
> it for years on cutting boards....the manufacturer we use is "Tree
> Safe".....any kitchen store should carry it. Just my two cents worth...
>
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
>
> Frank
>
>