Do you think this (see link below) is a reasonable miter saw stand
(Masterforce MX124),or should I insist on crafting something myself?
FWIW, I collected anew Delta DW713saw, so far untested! :)I did get in
some shop time this weekend, but on an unrelated repair.
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/work-support/masterforce-universal-miter-saw-work-station/p-1846173-c-10164.htm
The main issueI see with making my own is my lack of a jointer. Another
option is to mount the saw on a table (or saw horses) and use a roller
stand (I've seen pictures of that being done, but it looksrisky). It's
not like I'm planning to build a deck or anythinglike that--more like,
"clamp stand" and "plant table".
Bill
Before there were CSMSs, I bought Delta's Sawbuck, with the solid table -=
=20
https://www.google.com/search?q=3DDelta+sawbuck&hl=3Den&rlz=3D1T4MXGB_enUS5=
12US513&tbm=3Disch&tbo=3Du&source=3Duniv&sa=3DX&ei=3DoPpGUfeoJtG74APuvoDYDA=
&ved=3D0CDEQsAQ&biw=3D1280&bih=3D690
It easily goes anywhere for all sorts of tasks, so mobility is a great asse=
t. The circular saw limits work to smaller cuttings (16" wide, 2 3/4" thic=
k for straight cuts, much wider but less thick for angle cuts), but it sure=
ly takes care of 90% of my miter and other cutting tasks that "require" thi=
s type of saw. For larger cuttings, I have Delta's 33-890 RAS.=20
Whether you buy a stand or make one, make sure it is stable, though it shou=
ldn't take much to insure its stability, an adequatley wide footprint. You=
r CSMS is likely a little heavier than my sawbuck, but establishing the req=
uired stability shouldn't take much doing.
It's easy to buy a stand, rather than making one. Steel or aluminum frame?=
Aluminum should do very well, as hospital/patient gurneys are made with a=
luminum frames and can handle lots of weight, which prompts me to suggest, =
if convenient for you....
*It's not uncommon for me to look for a recycle solution, for my own needs,=
sometimes, so....=20
Maybe, check out your local hospital and/or ambulance service for a broken =
gurney (for free?) and use it to make a portable stand. The wheels are tou=
gh and dependable, also. This sort of thing is easier for me, since I have=
a close history with the local hospitals, here, but if convenient and maki=
ng your own stand is practical for you, check them out for an available gur=
ney.
Facilities can't afford the liability of using a broken gurney, so they jus=
t throw them away. One hospital, here, does keep the wheels from damaged g=
urneys, for replacing on other gurneys, when needed, so a salvvaged gurney =
may not have wheels.
Most gurneys have collapseable mechanisms and this can possibly be modified=
/adapted to accommodate foldup, for transport of your CSMS work station.
Maybe even Salvation Army or Goodwill will have a gurney available for chea=
p.
I have several furniture carts, for my upholstery transport work, made from=
free salvaged gurneys.
Sonny
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
>On 4/7/2018 8:56 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> On Saturday, April 7, 2018 at 9:46:18 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> On Friday, April 6, 2018 at 3:46:28 PM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>>>> John McGaw <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>>> On 4/6/2018 2:14 PM, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
>>>>>>> replying to Bill, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
>>>>>>> The stand is a very nice stand. My problem is with the instructions. The
>>>>>>> figures don't come close to matching the instructions. Very poorly written and
>>>>>>> confusing
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Why is it we're suddenly seeing all of these replies to ancient posts? In
>>>>>> this case we're talking five years although in one recent case it was
>>>>>> fifteen(!) years old. C'mon folks. Take a look at the original date and ask
>>>>>> yourself if anything you post might still be relevant.
>>>>>
>>>>> Home Moaners Hub and Google Groups, neither of which prominently show
>>>>> the posting date apparently.
>>>>
>>>> Not sure what you mean by that. Both HOH and GG prominently show the date
>>>> in the upper right corner of every post. HOH even includes the words
>>>> "posted on".
>>>>
>>>>> HMH is simply driving traffic to their
>>>>> site, so they likely DGAS.
>>>>
>>>> DGAS?
>>>>
>>>> What does the Delta Natural Gas Company have to do with this? Do you
>>>> own some of their stock? ;-)
>>>>
>>>
>>> Do a google search.
>>
>> That's DAGS, not DGAS.
>>
>> II was giving Scott a little bit of Mike's $hit. ;-)
>>
>
>I think that is what he meant. I often say FIY in place of FYI
Actually DGAS is _Don't Give a ____.
On Friday, April 6, 2018 at 3:46:28 PM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> John McGaw <[email protected]> writes:
> >On 4/6/2018 2:14 PM, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
> >> replying to Bill, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
> >> The stand is a very nice stand. My problem is with the instructions. The
> >> figures don't come close to matching the instructions. Very poorly written and
> >> confusing
> >
> >Why is it we're suddenly seeing all of these replies to ancient posts? In
> >this case we're talking five years although in one recent case it was
> >fifteen(!) years old. C'mon folks. Take a look at the original date and ask
> >yourself if anything you post might still be relevant.
>
> Home Moaners Hub and Google Groups, neither of which prominently show
> the posting date apparently.
Not sure what you mean by that. Both HOH and GG prominently show the date
in the upper right corner of every post. HOH even includes the words
"posted on".
> HMH is simply driving traffic to their
> site, so they likely DGAS.
DGAS?
What does the Delta Natural Gas Company have to do with this? Do you
own some of their stock? ;-)
Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> Karl made a remark about *safety* that drew my attention. What is at
> risk if the blade gets pinched in a cut?
"Kickforward" is common with a miter saw if the back edge of the piece
being cut is not flush with the fence (bowed, uneven or wany), or below the
plane of the wings (due to binding). Easier to control than kickback on a
TS, but still a dangerous circumstance.
The most dangerous cut on a miter saw is one that is not backed up firmly
to the fence ... ALWAYS insure that the cut on a miter saw is made with the
stock firmly against the fence, including edge on angle cuts. No
exceptions.
--
www.ewoodshop.com
Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> woodchucker wrote:
>>
>> It's good price. BTW you don't need a jointer to make one. use mdf, >
>> mdo, baltic birch, or cab grade ply. if you don't have a TS yet, route >
>> your dados. The most imporant dados are the fence. the support can be >
>> more crude, it just has to keep the fence from deflecting.
> Thanks for mentioned that. I didn't even think of a fence.
>
>
>>
>> See if you can find reviews.. if you are purchasing that. Don't wind > up buying twice.
> I could not find any reviews. The one that Leon posted a link to looks a
> little nicer ($70 more).
> The one Leon provided a link to is steel at 75 pounds, the former is
> alluminum at 52 pounds.
>
> Thank you for all of the comments (from everyone who has replied). They
> have already been helpful!
I traded this:
http://e-woodshop.net/images/TempShop7.jpg
For this:
http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gvarvrc56i4/TuTkG4GXAMI/AAAAAAAAJTE/1akmkUlWbmw/s2048/2011-05-04_19-28-08_669.jpg
Although it has served me well, both in the shop and onsite,I would
probably spring for this today:
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-T4B-Gravity-Rise-Miter-Stand/dp/B000VZNEM0
I much prefer a portable stand, like the above over the first, shop built,
one.
--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)
On Sunday, March 17, 2013 5:23:04 PM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
> Do you think this (see link below) is a reasonable miter saw stand=20
>=20
> (Masterforce MX124),or should I insist on crafting something myself? =20
>=20
> FWIW, I collected anew Delta DW713saw, so far untested! :)I did get in=20
>=20
> some shop time this weekend, but on an unrelated repair.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/work-support/maste=
rforce-universal-miter-saw-work-station/p-1846173-c-10164.htm
>=20
>=20
>=20
> The main issueI see with making my own is my lack of a jointer. Another=
=20
>=20
> option is to mount the saw on a table (or saw horses) and use a roller=20
>=20
> stand (I've seen pictures of that being done, but it looksrisky). It's=
=20
>=20
> not like I'm planning to build a deck or anythinglike that--more like,=20
>=20
> "clamp stand" and "plant table".
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Bill
A couple of thoughts, Bill. I don't know anything about that unit, but if =
you want to buy rather than build keep an eye on CL for a few days and one =
is likely to come up. I built my own pretty quickly using two-bys and lami=
nated MDF. I've got two 15" by 4' tables with a center recess that brings t=
he chop saw table coplanar with the table tops. I used angle iron on the c=
enter ends of each table and mounted my chop saw to another piece of MDF. =
That keeps the chop saw portable. I also mounted a long t-track on one of =
the tables with a stop block for multiple cuts to the same length.
Good luck,
Larry
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> Here's another option. This was intended to be a temporary stand, and
> it's still in use many years after I knocked it together. Probably will
> be for a long time. It's just an old gas grill stand. It works for me
> because I'm all about the portability of tools in my garage. I do use HF
> roller stands with it because I have them for my table saw anyway, but as
> I said, you could just knock together a couple of fixed stands in 20
> minutes.
>
> http://s1259.beta.photobucket.com/user/mike9369/library/Garage%20Tools?page=1
>
>
There ya go! That is some inspired recycling there. And you can always
yank the top off and grill a couple steaks. ;)
I don't use my miter saw that much. I have an old wood box, outside, turned
over with the bottom us. It is an outdoor utility, workbench. I just put
my saw up there and put up a couple roller stands on each end. It ain't
fancy, but it gets the job done. I have made hundreds of cuts with it. And
for working around the house, in my back yard, it is enough.
If I was doing this sort of thing for a living or at other locations, this
obviously would not work. I remember a friend of mine who used to cut lots
of wood and metal on the floor. He just put down a kneeling pad and just
worked off of the floor. I tried that and did not like it. so I made a
platform and he called me a pussy. I ran into him the other day. He is
considerably older now. I asked about his shop.
He now has individual workstations for all the tools. And excellent
lighting. And dust control, Etc., etc. Everything is up in the air now.
And I suspect that some of the aging that took place with him was
accelerated because he was working on the floor. That sort of thing catches
up with you.
Bill <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
*snip*
>
> Karl made a remark about *safety* that drew my attention. What is at
> risk if the blade gets pinched in a cut?
>
> Bill
>
My fence isn't flat, so the blade does occasionally get pinched in the
cut. Usually, nothing too bad happens and I just have to stop the cut
and sometimes start again.
It's entirely possible, however, that the piece could get caught, lifted,
and then thrown back (or richochet) in your direction. Eye protection is
a must when using any power saw.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Friday, April 6, 2018 at 3:46:28 PM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>> John McGaw <[email protected]> writes:
>>> On 4/6/2018 2:14 PM, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
>>>> replying to Bill, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
>>>> The stand is a very nice stand. My problem is with the instructions. The
>>>> figures don't come close to matching the instructions. Very poorly written and
>>>> confusing
>>>
>>> Why is it we're suddenly seeing all of these replies to ancient posts? In
>>> this case we're talking five years although in one recent case it was
>>> fifteen(!) years old. C'mon folks. Take a look at the original date and ask
>>> yourself if anything you post might still be relevant.
>>
>> Home Moaners Hub and Google Groups, neither of which prominently show
>> the posting date apparently.
>
> Not sure what you mean by that. Both HOH and GG prominently show the date
> in the upper right corner of every post. HOH even includes the words
> "posted on".
>
>> HMH is simply driving traffic to their
>> site, so they likely DGAS.
>
> DGAS?
>
> What does the Delta Natural Gas Company have to do with this? Do you
> own some of their stock? ;-)
>
Do a google search.
G. Ross wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Do you think this (see link below) is a reasonable miter saw stand
>> (Masterforce MX124),or should I insist on crafting something myself?
>> FWIW, I collected anew Delta DW713saw, so far untested! :)I did get in
>> some shop time this weekend, but on an unrelated repair.
>>
>> http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/work-support/masterforce-universal-miter-saw-work-station/p-1846173-c-10164.htm
>>
>> The main issueI see with making my own is my lack of a jointer. Another
>> option is to mount the saw on a table (or saw horses) and use a roller
>> stand (I've seen pictures of that being done, but it looksrisky). It's
>> not like I'm planning to build a deck or anythinglike that--more like,
>> "clamp stand" and "plant table".
>>
>> Bill
>>
> Mine sits on a dropped section of my wall cabinet so that the saw
> table is level with the rest of the cabinet. Also has a dust
> extractor hose attached and a wall mounted spotlight on the cutting
> area. I don't do house calls or construction work.
>
Wall cabinet is a poor choice of words. It is a table/cabinet which
is attached to the wall.
--
GW Ross
Phobia: what's left after drinking 2
out of a 6 pack.
Bill wrote:
> Do you think this (see link below) is a reasonable miter saw stand
> (Masterforce MX124),or should I insist on crafting something myself?
> FWIW, I collected anew Delta DW713saw, so far untested! :)I did get in
> some shop time this weekend, but on an unrelated repair.
>
> http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/work-support/masterforce-universal-miter-saw-work-station/p-1846173-c-10164.htm
>
> The main issueI see with making my own is my lack of a jointer. Another
> option is to mount the saw on a table (or saw horses) and use a roller
> stand (I've seen pictures of that being done, but it looksrisky). It's
> not like I'm planning to build a deck or anythinglike that--more like,
> "clamp stand" and "plant table".
>
> Bill
>
Mine sits on a dropped section of my wall cabinet so that the saw
table is level with the rest of the cabinet. Also has a dust
extractor hose attached and a wall mounted spotlight on the cutting
area. I don't do house calls or construction work.
--
GW Ross
Phobia: what's left after drinking 2
out of a 6 pack.
Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> Swingman wrote:
>>
>> I'll say it again, you want to get hurt on a miter saw
>> sooner or
>> later, practice cutting without using the fence, you will
>> live to
>> regret it.
>>
>
> I well-appreciate the warning. I had no idea the tool was
> "ready to
> pounce"!
>
> Bill
any power tool is ready to pounce, when you use it
improperly.
take a Milwakee magnum 1/2" holeshooter and get it in a bind
and it could fling you off the roof or ladder
On 3/18/2013 7:39 AM, Sonny wrote:
> Before there were CSMSs, I bought Delta's Sawbuck, with the solid table -
> https://www.google.com/search?q=Delta+sawbuck&hl=en&rlz=1T4MXGB_enUS512US513&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=oPpGUfeoJtG74APuvoDYDA&ved=0CDEQsAQ&biw=1280&bih=690
Had one of those 30 years ago when I was building recording studios ...
it was great.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On Friday, April 6, 2018 at 9:57:29 PM UTC-4, Markem wrote:
> On Fri, 06 Apr 2018 19:46:24 GMT, [email protected] (Scott Lurndal)
> wrote:
>
> >John McGaw <[email protected]> writes:
> >>On 4/6/2018 2:14 PM, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
> >>> replying to Bill, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
> >>> The stand is a very nice stand. My problem is with the instructions. The
> >>> figures don't come close to matching the instructions. Very poorly written and
> >>> confusing
> >>
> >>Why is it we're suddenly seeing all of these replies to ancient posts? In
> >>this case we're talking five years although in one recent case it was
> >>fifteen(!) years old. C'mon folks. Take a look at the original date and ask
> >>yourself if anything you post might still be relevant.
> >
> >Home Moaners Hub and Google Groups, neither of which prominently show
> >the posting date apparently. HMH is simply driving traffic to their
> >site, so they likely DGAS.
>
> Homeowners Hub does prominently displays the date at the top of the
> page GG not sure.
Now you can be sure about GG. This was copied from the Dolphin browser on an iPad, but it's
essentially the same across all browsers and platforms. That's one of the beauties of using GG.
Very portable and sync'd across all devices.
https://i.imgur.com/VX13SVV.jpg
On 3/17/2013 7:47 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 3/17/2013 5:23 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Do you think this (see link below) is a reasonable miter saw stand
>> (Masterforce MX124),or should I insist on crafting something myself?
>> FWIW, I collected anew Delta DW713saw, so far untested! :)I did get in
>> some shop time this weekend, but on an unrelated repair.
>>
>> http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/work-support/masterforce-universal-miter-saw-work-station/p-1846173-c-10164.htm
>>
>>
>>
>> The main issueI see with making my own is my lack of a jointer. Another
>> option is to mount the saw on a table (or saw horses) and use a roller
>> stand (I've seen pictures of that being done, but it looksrisky). It's
>> not like I'm planning to build a deck or anythinglike that--more like,
>> "clamp stand" and "plant table".
>>
>> Bill
>>
>
>
> Looks good but If I were to do it all over again I would with and about
> $70~$100 more . Seems a bit more versatile.
>
>
> http://www.htcproductsinc.com/mswc.html
>
> Sold here too,
>
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000BKY63G/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1363563817&sr=8-1&keywords=pm7000&condition=new
>
Leon, first a festooly, and now a rep for HTC???
How much do you make pushing tools Leon...
--
Jeff
On 4/9/2018 9:03 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
>> On 4/7/2018 8:56 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Saturday, April 7, 2018 at 9:46:18 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> On Friday, April 6, 2018 at 3:46:28 PM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>>>>> John McGaw <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>>>> On 4/6/2018 2:14 PM, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
>>>>>>>> replying to Bill, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
>>>>>>>> The stand is a very nice stand. My problem is with the instructions. The
>>>>>>>> figures don't come close to matching the instructions. Very poorly written and
>>>>>>>> confusing
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Why is it we're suddenly seeing all of these replies to ancient posts? In
>>>>>>> this case we're talking five years although in one recent case it was
>>>>>>> fifteen(!) years old. C'mon folks. Take a look at the original date and ask
>>>>>>> yourself if anything you post might still be relevant.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Home Moaners Hub and Google Groups, neither of which prominently show
>>>>>> the posting date apparently.
>>>>>
>>>>> Not sure what you mean by that. Both HOH and GG prominently show the date
>>>>> in the upper right corner of every post. HOH even includes the words
>>>>> "posted on".
>>>>>
>>>>>> HMH is simply driving traffic to their
>>>>>> site, so they likely DGAS.
>>>>>
>>>>> DGAS?
>>>>>
>>>>> What does the Delta Natural Gas Company have to do with this? Do you
>>>>> own some of their stock? ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Do a google search.
>>>
>>> That's DAGS, not DGAS.
>>>
>>> II was giving Scott a little bit of Mike's $hit. ;-)
>>>
>>
>> I think that is what he meant. I often say FIY in place of FYI
>
> Actually DGAS is _Don't Give a ____.
>
Yeah! And then there is that. LOL
> As for movement - I have never had to adjust my stand or my saw. That might
> be because of large differences in humidity between Houston and Syracuse,
> which causes Karl problems that I don't see up here, or it could be because
My miter saw stand of old was entirely of plywood, but it was
dimensionally unstable to the point that I had to adjust/re-shim more
than a few times a year.
The fact that it left the shop a few times a year, and the Gulf Coast
temperature and humidity swings, were undoubtedly the reason ... very
little to do with AR tendencies when it comes to precision, but some of
that too.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
"Swingman" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>An "extension" to the fence is not an "exception", but is in actuality
>still using the fence.
>I'll say it again, you want to get hurt on a miter saw sooner or later,
>practice cutting without using the fence, you will live to regret it.
...that and using a blade with a lot of positive rake. I learned that the
hard way when I mounted my Freud Ultimate Crosscut blade on the CMS. It
would pick up short cut offs and wing them violently... I didn't realize
what was causing the problem initially and ended up damaging the blade
guard. That blade works just fine on the table saw... Stick with neutral or
negative rake teeth on the CMSs... My Forrest Chopmaster blade leaves
cutoffs laying on the saw and if they vibrate into the blade before it stops
they just sit there.
On 3/20/2013 2:59 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
> ...that and using a blade with a lot of positive rake. I learned that
> the hard way when I mounted my Freud Ultimate Crosscut blade on the CMS.
> It would pick up short cut offs and wing them violently... I didn't
> realize what was causing the problem initially and ended up damaging the
> blade guard. That blade works just fine on the table saw... Stick with
> neutral or negative rake teeth on the CMSs... My Forrest Chopmaster
> blade leaves cutoffs laying on the saw and if they vibrate into the
> blade before it stops they just sit there.
My lesson was similar some 35 years ago, cutting an angle on the end of
a longer board without backing up the cut with the fence/or clamps ...
luckily all I lost were four finger nails on my left hand (and a months
worth of bass gigs) when the blade hit a defect and slammed the board
against the fence, taking my hand with it.
The speed at which it happened still makes me shiver at the thought.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 3/17/2013 9:49 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Do you think this (see link below) is a reasonable miter saw stand
>> (Masterforce MX124),or should I insist on crafting something myself?
>> FWIW, I collected anew Delta DW713saw, so far untested! :)I did get in
>> some shop time this weekend, but on an unrelated repair.
>>
>> http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/work-support/masterforce-universal-miter-saw-work-station/p-1846173-c-10164.htm
>>
>> The main issueI see with making my own is my lack of a jointer.
>> Another option is to mount the saw on a table (or saw horses) and use
>> a roller stand (I've seen pictures of that being done, but it
>> looksrisky). It's not like I'm planning to build a deck or
>> anythinglike that--more like, "clamp stand" and "plant table".
>>
>
> Oh no... this is going to be a long thread - I can just feel it!
>
> First - forget the jointer Bill. You have no need for a jointer to build a
> simple stand for a miter saw. Next - plenty of miter saws have been screwed
> to a pair of saw horses, and used to cut tons of wood with no risky stuff.
> What do you see as risky? Go ahead and do it that way until you come up
> with your ultimate solution. Or, screw a piece of plywood to the horses and
> set your saw on it. You don't need rollers either. You don't move stock
> through a miter saw - you place the stock on it. Simple fixed stands at the
> right height will work just fine.
>
> As for your url - that looks to be an ok rig for the price. Not the
> ultimate, but plenty good enough. If you're anxious to get going with your
> saw, then just go buy it. It will work. You're not a contractor, nor are
> you going to build the volume of work that Karl and Leon do, so you don't
> need to worry about steel vs aluminum or stuff like that.
>
> Here's another option. This was intended to be a temporary stand, and it's
> still in use many years after I knocked it together. Probably will be for a
> long time. It's just an old gas grill stand. It works for me because I'm
> all about the portability of tools in my garage. I do use HF roller stands
> with it because I have them for my table saw anyway, but as I said, you
> could just knock together a couple of fixed stands in 20 minutes.
>
> http://s1259.beta.photobucket.com/user/mike9369/library/Garage%20Tools?page=1
>
Mike, nice recycling of a grill stand.
I think you could make it sturdier by adding a set of stretchers
underneath , make it a 5" wide stretcher screwed top and bottom after
drilling holes mount it middle of the front and back.. you can then hold
wood like Swingman had in his. This will stiffen that puppy up nicely.
any ply or particle board can be used for the strechers...
--
Jeff
On 3/17/2013 7:58 PM, Bill wrote:
> HeyBub wrote:
>>
>> A jointer for a tool stand? You're not making a future heirloom here -
>> sturdy is all that counts.
>>
> None of the 2by material I bring home lies in a plane! :)
>
> Not gonna set a piece of plywood across 2 wavy 2by4s, no not gonna do
> it! : )
>
> Bill
>
>
Bill,
I have a wood rack. I built it to hold my hardwoods. What I found is
that I can clamp 2 x 4's to the supports all in (plane) and leave them
there for a few months. This brings them to equilibrium, but due to my
setting them with clamps seems to keep them very straight. I realize
that they might be held in stress, but so far each one that I have
either ripped or crosscut has stayed that way.
So 2x can be used, you just need patience.
Not saying you could use for furniture, but you could use for other
purposes. Pick nice straight stuff to begin with, also look for clean
wood. Spruce has lots of knots, doug fir can be found clean.
--
Jeff
"Bill" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Do you think this (see link below) is a reasonable miter saw stand
(Masterforce MX124),or should I insist on crafting something myself?
FWIW, I collected anew Delta DW713saw, so far untested! :)I did get in
some shop time this weekend, but on an unrelated repair.
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/work-support/masterforce-universal-miter-saw-work-station/p-1846173-c-10164.htm
The main issueI see with making my own is my lack of a jointer. Another
option is to mount the saw on a table (or saw horses) and use a roller
stand (I've seen pictures of that being done, but it looksrisky). It's
not like I'm planning to build a deck or anythinglike that--more like,
"clamp stand" and "plant table".
======================================================================================
I have my miter saw on a portable stand so I can take it were the work is.
It also has the added advantage that it can be collapsed and stood against a
wall. I have seen the permanent stands that people make and they are great
for shop use but portable they aren't. . I have been working with wood, off
and on, for over 40 years and have never had the need for a jointer so if
you feel the need to build something, the lack of a jointer is not a
problem.
Bill wrote:
> Do you think this (see link below) is a reasonable miter saw stand
> (Masterforce MX124),or should I insist on crafting something myself?
> FWIW, I collected anew Delta DW713saw, so far untested! :)I did get in
> some shop time this weekend, but on an unrelated repair.
>
> http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/work-support/masterforce-universal-miter-saw-work-station/p-1846173-c-10164.htm
>
> The main issueI see with making my own is my lack of a jointer.
> Another option is to mount the saw on a table (or saw horses) and use
> a roller stand (I've seen pictures of that being done, but it
> looksrisky). It's not like I'm planning to build a deck or
> anythinglike that--more like, "clamp stand" and "plant table".
>
A jointer for a tool stand? You're not making a future heirloom here -
sturdy is all that counts.
On 3/19/2013 6:57 AM, Bill wrote:
> Since the heavy saw on a base is being supported by a structure of bolts
> mounted in plywood, 8-12 of them seems prudent (to me), as they will
> support a fair amount of weight and vibration.
Having lived for years with a shimmed miter saw installation (plastic
shims when they became available) on a shop built wooden stand, I concur
with your quest to come up with some type of metal, screw/thread based,
leveling/flushing mechanism.
If you can pull it off, you will find that to be a much more preferable
solution than shimming a miter saw, where being flush with the wings can
affect both the cut and safety, and all too often has to be tweaked with
every change in weather or movement.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> FWIW, the Portamate unit has a 1 year warranty, but the Menards
> Masterforce unit has a lifetime warranty.
> However, the former is steel and the latter aluminum.
IMHO, being made of aluminum is an advantage: if you're not going to move the saw around,
you don't need a portable stand -- and if you *do* need a portable stand, you *want* it to be
aluminum.
I've been using a DeWalt DW723 portable stand for my 10" miter saw for about 8 years now.
It's made of aluminum, and it's (a) plenty sturdy, and (b) heavy enough as it is. I'm really, really
glad it's *not* steel.
Bill <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Bill wrote:
>>
>> How about securing the saw to a square plywood base (4 bolts), then
>> using about 12 more bolts to secure that base say 1" above another
>> plywood base, using 3 nuts to accomplish this for the latter 12 (one
>> at the bottom securing the bolt to the lower base, and one above and
>> below the top base).
>
> Anyone think this is a good idea? Here is a pic of one of the 12 (hex)
> bolts I mented along with the 2 plywood bases:
>
>
> | |
>| | | | { saw here }
> ---------------------------
> ---------------------------
>| | | |
> | |
> | |
>| | | |
> ---------------------------
> ---------------------------
> |__|
>
>
Bill,
I used to mount goosenecks for Telephone entry systems and card readers
for apartment complexes and that is exactly the method I used. I would
put bolts into the base and with one nut above the mounting plate and
another below. I believe that this is the same method they use around
here for street lights in parking lots. With 12 bolts you should be able
to account for any sag you might get in the middle.
Steve
On 3/20/2013 12:58 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Tue, 19 Mar 2013 20:24:22 -0500, Swingman wrote:
>
>> The most dangerous cut on a miter saw is one that is not backed up
>> firmly to the fence ... ALWAYS insure that the cut on a miter saw is
>> made with the stock firmly against the fence, including edge on angle
>> cuts. No exceptions.
>
> Well, I just posted an exception :-).
An "extension" to the fence is not an "exception", but is in actuality
still using the fence.
I'll say it again, you want to get hurt on a miter saw sooner or later,
practice cutting without using the fence, you will live to regret it.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> woodchucker wrote:
>>
>> It's good price. BTW you don't need a jointer to make one. use mdf, mdo,
>> baltic birch, or cab grade ply. if you don't have a TS yet, route your
>> dados. The most imporant dados are the fence. the support can be more
>> crude, it just has to keep the fence from deflecting.
> Thanks for mentioned that. I didn't even think of a fence.
>
>
>>
>> See if you can find reviews.. if you are purchasing that. Don't wind up
>> buying twice.
> I could not find any reviews. The one that Leon posted a link to looks a
> little nicer ($70 more).
> The one Leon provided a link to is steel at 75 pounds, the former is
> alluminum at 52 pounds.
>
> Thank you for all of the comments (from everyone who has replied). They
> have already been helpful!
>
> Bill
>
I've got this on my list for my 12"bosch
<http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWX726-Rolling-Miter-Stand/dp/B0066N7C74/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3FS2WHQ8HSM8V&coliid=ILAH4F2J523YF>
or
http://preview.tinyurl.com/cw4bnqr
On Fri, 6 Apr 2018 15:07:11 -0400, John McGaw <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 4/6/2018 2:14 PM, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
>> replying to Bill, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
>> The stand is a very nice stand. My problem is with the instructions. The
>> figures don't come close to matching the instructions. Very poorly written and
>> confusing
>
>Why is it we're suddenly seeing all of these replies to ancient posts? In
>this case we're talking five years although in one recent case it was
>fifteen(!) years old. C'mon folks. Take a look at the original date and ask
>yourself if anything you post might still be relevant.
>
Because it is just a click bait troll for the link (same one for every
post) that is always posted?
"Click on over here to see the context - and we need/want all the clicks
we can get. Rather than just asking, "Please click our link" someone is
doing his best to be sneaky and hoping his post garners a click or two.
--
Jerry O.
On Saturday, April 7, 2018 at 11:27:54 AM UTC-4, Markem wrote:
> On Sat, 7 Apr 2018 06:53:05 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >That's one of the beauties of using GG.
> >Very portable and sync'd across all devices.
>
> One of few, maybe the only one.
I originally switched to GG because it was the only way to access usenet
on my corporate desktop, upon which I was not allowed to add a standalone
newsreader. Once I realized the convenience of portability/syncing, I saw
no reason to continue using separate newsreaders on my multiple devices.
Sure, I took a lot of crap from die-hard usenet/newsreader bigots, many
of whom plonked Google Groupers just out of "principle", but F them. It
is they that missed the opportunity to partake of my wisdom. ;-)
On Monday, March 18, 2013 8:29:05 AM UTC-6, Spalted Walt wrote:
> $64,,, 71 lbs of twisted steel & sex appeal ;-) http://www.harborfreight.=
com/mobile-folding-power-tool-stand-40612.html nuff said....
Product depth 22" and 37 3/4" high. Does this mean its table top is 22" f=
ront to back? If so, then the leg span, front to back, is 20" or less. Th=
at might be iffy for stability, with Bill's saw's weight and any beefy lumb=
er, as high as it will be. A couple of the reviews said it was wobbly, but=
didn't say why.
The leg span of my sawbuck, front to back, is 25", table top is 35 3/4" hig=
h. I've never had any stability issues.
>MM> Oh no... this is going to be a long thread - I can just feel it!=20
LOL.
Temporary stand? Several half-lap jointed 2X4s in a narrower-at-the-top "H=
-A" frame assembly (wide front-to-back footprint), X2, then heavy-duty hing=
ed to each end of a table top's frame, makes for an inexpensively made stan=
d. Install leg extension stops. Optional: A few wheels on an axle makes f=
or the mobility.
Sonny
On Saturday, April 7, 2018 at 9:46:18 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> > On Friday, April 6, 2018 at 3:46:28 PM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> >> John McGaw <[email protected]> writes:
> >>> On 4/6/2018 2:14 PM, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
> >>>> replying to Bill, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
> >>>> The stand is a very nice stand. My problem is with the instructions. The
> >>>> figures don't come close to matching the instructions. Very poorly written and
> >>>> confusing
> >>>
> >>> Why is it we're suddenly seeing all of these replies to ancient posts? In
> >>> this case we're talking five years although in one recent case it was
> >>> fifteen(!) years old. C'mon folks. Take a look at the original date and ask
> >>> yourself if anything you post might still be relevant.
> >>
> >> Home Moaners Hub and Google Groups, neither of which prominently show
> >> the posting date apparently.
> >
> > Not sure what you mean by that. Both HOH and GG prominently show the date
> > in the upper right corner of every post. HOH even includes the words
> > "posted on".
> >
> >> HMH is simply driving traffic to their
> >> site, so they likely DGAS.
> >
> > DGAS?
> >
> > What does the Delta Natural Gas Company have to do with this? Do you
> > own some of their stock? ;-)
> >
>
> Do a google search.
That's DAGS, not DGAS.
II was giving Scott a little bit of Mike's $hit. ;-)
On Monday, April 9, 2018 at 10:03:43 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
> >On 4/7/2018 8:56 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> On Saturday, April 7, 2018 at 9:46:18 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> >>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>> On Friday, April 6, 2018 at 3:46:28 PM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> >>>>> John McGaw <[email protected]> writes:
> >>>>>> On 4/6/2018 2:14 PM, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
> >>>>>>> replying to Bill, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
> >>>>>>> The stand is a very nice stand. My problem is with the instructions. The
> >>>>>>> figures don't come close to matching the instructions. Very poorly written and
> >>>>>>> confusing
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Why is it we're suddenly seeing all of these replies to ancient posts? In
> >>>>>> this case we're talking five years although in one recent case it was
> >>>>>> fifteen(!) years old. C'mon folks. Take a look at the original date and ask
> >>>>>> yourself if anything you post might still be relevant.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Home Moaners Hub and Google Groups, neither of which prominently show
> >>>>> the posting date apparently.
> >>>>
> >>>> Not sure what you mean by that. Both HOH and GG prominently show the date
> >>>> in the upper right corner of every post. HOH even includes the words
> >>>> "posted on".
> >>>>
> >>>>> HMH is simply driving traffic to their
> >>>>> site, so they likely DGAS.
> >>>>
> >>>> DGAS?
> >>>>
> >>>> What does the Delta Natural Gas Company have to do with this? Do you
> >>>> own some of their stock? ;-)
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> Do a google search.
> >>
> >> That's DAGS, not DGAS.
> >>
> >> II was giving Scott a little bit of Mike's $hit. ;-)
> >>
> >
> >I think that is what he meant. I often say FIY in place of FYI
>
> Actually DGAS is _Don't Give a ____.
Ah...well, that changes everything and fits your statement. Thanks for the
clarification.
On 3/18/2013 9:28 AM, Bill wrote:
> On 3/18/2013 9:17 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Thank you, Sonny. As of this morning I AM leaning towards a stand
>>> which will give me "repeatable cuts"--at least in the long term. In
>>> the short term, I can surely do fine with another configuration.
>>>
>>> This distinction, was a useful concept, at least for me, that came
>>> out of this thread.
>>>
>>
>> Anything can give you repeatable cuts Bill. It just has to be secure,
>> and
>> able to support the length of stock you are working with. That's where
>> outboard supports become your friend. Repeatablity is mostly in the
>> hands
>> of the user, and maybe a stop block thrown in for good measure. Even
>> a saw
>> mounted on a pair of sawhorses can promise you repeatability.
>>
>
> It seems like the stop-block and the fence are essential elements for
> repeatability of decent-sized work. Without them, how do you achieve it?
>
> BTW, it appears that the ends of the Port-A-Mate are designed to work as
> stop-blocks. I'll be paying attention!
>
> Bill
>
>
Once you get your miter saw stand you can add this!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=aXZ0LZyKAeI
On Sat, 7 Apr 2018 06:53:05 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:
>That's one of the beauties of using GG.
>Very portable and sync'd across all devices.
One of few, maybe the only one.
On 3/17/2013 7:33 PM, Bill wrote:
> woodchucker wrote:
>> On 3/17/2013 6:23 PM, Bill wrote:
>>> Do you think this (see link below) is a reasonable miter saw stand
>>> (Masterforce MX124),or should I insist on crafting something myself?
>>> FWIW, I collected anew Delta DW713saw, so far untested! :)I did get in
>>> some shop time this weekend, but on an unrelated repair.
>>>
>>> http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/work-support/masterforce-universal-miter-saw-work-station/p-1846173-c-10164.htm
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The main issueI see with making my own is my lack of a jointer. Another
>>> option is to mount the saw on a table (or saw horses) and use a roller
>>> stand (I've seen pictures of that being done, but it looksrisky). It's
>>> not like I'm planning to build a deck or anythinglike that--more like,
>>> "clamp stand" and "plant table".
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>
>> That depends, my personal feelings on these type of stands is that
>> they server the contractor better than a woodworker.
>> But if you are just using it for home repair then it probably fits the
>> bill (no pun intended)... But if you plan to gravitate to furniture,
>> etc.. then the drawbacks I see are repeatabliity (acurately)
> If you have a good fence, and a secure design, and a good blade, can
> this tool be expected to work to furniture-level tolerences? FWIW, I
> bought an LED for the miter saw.
>
> So far, I'm finding furniture-level tolerences to be a pain, and I've
> barely started! :)
>
> Anyone besides Leon familial with this beast (I see it is "Handy Man
> Member Tested and Recommended"!).
>
> http://www.htcproductsinc.com/mswc.html
>
> Bill
>
Woodcraft sells the unit.
Here is a good and a bad review. Either way IIRC it las a life time
warranty.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2006163/23424/portamate-miter-saw-stand-pm7000.aspx#ProdInformationTab
On 3/17/2013 5:23 PM, Bill wrote:
> Do you think this (see link below) is a reasonable miter saw stand
> (Masterforce MX124),or should I insist on crafting something myself?
> FWIW, I collected anew Delta DW713saw, so far untested! :)I did get in
> some shop time this weekend, but on an unrelated repair.
>
> http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/work-support/masterforce-universal-miter-saw-work-station/p-1846173-c-10164.htm
>
>
> The main issueI see with making my own is my lack of a jointer. Another
> option is to mount the saw on a table (or saw horses) and use a roller
> stand (I've seen pictures of that being done, but it looksrisky). It's
> not like I'm planning to build a deck or anythinglike that--more like,
> "clamp stand" and "plant table".
>
> Bill
>
Looks good but If I were to do it all over again I would with and about
$70~$100 more . Seems a bit more versatile.
http://www.htcproductsinc.com/mswc.html
Sold here too,
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000BKY63G/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1363563817&sr=8-1&keywords=pm7000&condition=new
On Fri, 06 Apr 2018 19:46:24 GMT, [email protected] (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:
>John McGaw <[email protected]> writes:
>>On 4/6/2018 2:14 PM, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
>>> replying to Bill, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
>>> The stand is a very nice stand. My problem is with the instructions. The
>>> figures don't come close to matching the instructions. Very poorly written and
>>> confusing
>>
>>Why is it we're suddenly seeing all of these replies to ancient posts? In
>>this case we're talking five years although in one recent case it was
>>fifteen(!) years old. C'mon folks. Take a look at the original date and ask
>>yourself if anything you post might still be relevant.
>
>Home Moaners Hub and Google Groups, neither of which prominently show
>the posting date apparently. HMH is simply driving traffic to their
>site, so they likely DGAS.
Homeowners Hub does prominently displays the date at the top of the
page GG not sure.
John McGaw <[email protected]> writes:
>On 4/6/2018 2:14 PM, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
>> replying to Bill, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
>> The stand is a very nice stand. My problem is with the instructions. The
>> figures don't come close to matching the instructions. Very poorly written and
>> confusing
>
>Why is it we're suddenly seeing all of these replies to ancient posts? In
>this case we're talking five years although in one recent case it was
>fifteen(!) years old. C'mon folks. Take a look at the original date and ask
>yourself if anything you post might still be relevant.
Home Moaners Hub and Google Groups, neither of which prominently show
the posting date apparently. HMH is simply driving traffic to their
site, so they likely DGAS.
Bill wrote:
> Do you think this (see link below) is a reasonable miter saw stand
> (Masterforce MX124),or should I insist on crafting something myself?
> FWIW, I collected anew Delta DW713saw, so far untested! :)I did get in
> some shop time this weekend, but on an unrelated repair.
>
> http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/work-support/masterforce-universal-miter-saw-work-station/p-1846173-c-10164.htm
>
>
> The main issueI see with making my own is my lack of a jointer.
> Another option is to mount the saw on a table (or saw horses) and use
> a roller stand (I've seen pictures of that being done, but it
> looksrisky). It's not like I'm planning to build a deck or
> anythinglike that--more like, "clamp stand" and "plant table".
>
> Bill
>
P.S. Sorry my words run together onsome of my posts... Its from writing
in html andposting in text. I need a better solution.
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Do you think this (see link below) is a reasonable miter saw stand (Masterforce
> MX124),or should I insist on crafting something myself? FWIW, I collected anew
> Delta DW713saw, so far untested! :)I did get in some shop time this weekend, but on
> an unrelated repair.
>
> http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/work-support/masterforce-universal-miter-saw-work-station/p-1846173-c-10164.htm
>
> The main issueI see with making my own is my lack of a jointer. Another option is
> to mount the saw on a table (or saw horses) and use a roller stand (I've seen
> pictures of that being done, but it looksrisky). It's not like I'm planning to
> build a deck or anythinglike that--more like, "clamp stand" and "plant table".
>
> Bill
>
As others have said - you don't need a jointer to make your own.
Here's some -plans in case you do make your own.
Art
http://toolmonger.com/2007/04/23/norms-kick-ass-new-yankee-chop-saw-table/
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/02/10-free-miter-saw-stand-plans-9-pictorial-idea-guides-2-videos-6-paid-plans-and-more
woodchucker wrote:
>
> It's good price. BTW you don't need a jointer to make one. use mdf,
> mdo, baltic birch, or cab grade ply. if you don't have a TS yet, route
> your dados. The most imporant dados are the fence. the support can be
> more crude, it just has to keep the fence from deflecting.
Thanks for mentioned that. I didn't even think of a fence.
>
> See if you can find reviews.. if you are purchasing that. Don't wind
> up buying twice.
I could not find any reviews. The one that Leon posted a link to looks
a little nicer ($70 more).
The one Leon provided a link to is steel at 75 pounds, the former is
alluminum at 52 pounds.
Thank you for all of the comments (from everyone who has replied). They
have already been helpful!
Bill
woodchucker wrote:
> On 3/17/2013 6:23 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Do you think this (see link below) is a reasonable miter saw stand
>> (Masterforce MX124),or should I insist on crafting something myself?
>> FWIW, I collected anew Delta DW713saw, so far untested! :)I did get in
>> some shop time this weekend, but on an unrelated repair.
>>
>> http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/work-support/masterforce-universal-miter-saw-work-station/p-1846173-c-10164.htm
>>
>>
>>
>> The main issueI see with making my own is my lack of a jointer. Another
>> option is to mount the saw on a table (or saw horses) and use a roller
>> stand (I've seen pictures of that being done, but it looksrisky). It's
>> not like I'm planning to build a deck or anythinglike that--more like,
>> "clamp stand" and "plant table".
>>
>> Bill
>>
>
> That depends, my personal feelings on these type of stands is that
> they server the contractor better than a woodworker.
> But if you are just using it for home repair then it probably fits the
> bill (no pun intended)... But if you plan to gravitate to furniture,
> etc.. then the drawbacks I see are repeatabliity (acurately)
If you have a good fence, and a secure design, and a good blade, can
this tool be expected to work to furniture-level tolerences? FWIW, I
bought an LED for the miter saw.
So far, I'm finding furniture-level tolerences to be a pain, and I've
barely started! :)
Anyone besides Leon familial with this beast (I see it is "Handy Man
Member Tested and Recommended"!).
http://www.htcproductsinc.com/mswc.html
Bill
Bill wrote:
> woodchucker wrote:
>> On 3/17/2013 6:23 PM, Bill wrote:
>>> Do you think this (see link below) is a reasonable miter saw stand
>>> (Masterforce MX124),or should I insist on crafting something myself?
>>> FWIW, I collected anew Delta DW713saw, so far untested! :)I did get in
>>> some shop time this weekend, but on an unrelated repair.
>>>
>>> http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/work-support/masterforce-universal-miter-saw-work-station/p-1846173-c-10164.htm
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The main issueI see with making my own is my lack of a jointer. Another
>>> option is to mount the saw on a table (or saw horses) and use a roller
>>> stand (I've seen pictures of that being done, but it looksrisky). It's
>>> not like I'm planning to build a deck or anythinglike that--more like,
>>> "clamp stand" and "plant table".
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>
>> That depends, my personal feelings on these type of stands is that
>> they server the contractor better than a woodworker.
>> But if you are just using it for home repair then it probably fits
>> the bill (no pun intended)... But if you plan to gravitate to
>> furniture, etc.. then the drawbacks I see are repeatabliity (acurately)
> If you have a good fence, and a secure design, and a good blade, can
> this tool be expected to work to furniture-level tolerences?
I was thinking about what you said--"repeatability". Now I get it.
>
> Anyone besides Leon familial with this beast (I see it is "Handy Man
> Member Tested and Recommended"!).
>
> http://www.htcproductsinc.com/mswc.html
>
This stand did was Not particularly well-received by the reviewing
public! I like the concept though.
Bill
Leon wrote:
> On 3/17/2013 7:33 PM, Bill wrote:
>> woodchucker wrote:
>>> On 3/17/2013 6:23 PM, Bill wrote:
>>>> Do you think this (see link below) is a reasonable miter saw stand
>>>> (Masterforce MX124),or should I insist on crafting something myself?
>>>> FWIW, I collected anew Delta DW713saw, so far untested! :)I did get in
>>>> some shop time this weekend, but on an unrelated repair.
>>>>
>>>> http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/work-support/masterforce-universal-miter-saw-work-station/p-1846173-c-10164.htm
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The main issueI see with making my own is my lack of a jointer.
>>>> Another
>>>> option is to mount the saw on a table (or saw horses) and use a roller
>>>> stand (I've seen pictures of that being done, but it looksrisky).
>>>> It's
>>>> not like I'm planning to build a deck or anythinglike that--more like,
>>>> "clamp stand" and "plant table".
>>>>
>>>> Bill
>>>>
>>>
>>> That depends, my personal feelings on these type of stands is that
>>> they server the contractor better than a woodworker.
>>> But if you are just using it for home repair then it probably fits the
>>> bill (no pun intended)... But if you plan to gravitate to furniture,
>>> etc.. then the drawbacks I see are repeatabliity (acurately)
>> If you have a good fence, and a secure design, and a good blade, can
>> this tool be expected to work to furniture-level tolerences? FWIW, I
>> bought an LED for the miter saw.
>>
>> So far, I'm finding furniture-level tolerences to be a pain, and I've
>> barely started! :)
>>
>> Anyone besides Leon familial with this beast (I see it is "Handy Man
>> Member Tested and Recommended"!).
>>
>> http://www.htcproductsinc.com/mswc.html
>>
>> Bill
>>
> Woodcraft sells the unit.
>
> Here is a good and a bad review. Either way IIRC it las a life time
> warranty.
>
> http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2006163/23424/portamate-miter-saw-stand-pm7000.aspx#ProdInformationTab
>
>
>
Impressive that it even supports a router table:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2006163/40046/portamate-router-table-pm7010.aspx
FWIW, the Portamate unit has a 1 year warranty, but the Menards
Masterforce unit has a lifetime warranty.
However, the former is steel and the latter aluminum.
Many of you may recall that I can't cut most man-made materials, due to
Formaldehyde-related allergies.
Thus I'm restricted to building with Purebond plywood (which, except for
C-3 plywood, is inconvenient to get)
and wood, and all of my decisions are made in that context. I can't
just grab a sheet of MDF because it's appropriate.
Bill
Bill wrote:
> Do you think this (see link below) is a reasonable miter saw stand
> (Masterforce MX124),or should I insist on crafting something myself?
> FWIW, I collected anew Delta DW713saw, so far untested! :)I did get in
> some shop time this weekend, but on an unrelated repair.
>
> http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/work-support/masterforce-universal-miter-saw-work-station/p-1846173-c-10164.htm
>
> The main issueI see with making my own is my lack of a jointer.
> Another option is to mount the saw on a table (or saw horses) and use
> a roller stand (I've seen pictures of that being done, but it
> looksrisky). It's not like I'm planning to build a deck or
> anythinglike that--more like, "clamp stand" and "plant table".
>
Oh no... this is going to be a long thread - I can just feel it!
First - forget the jointer Bill. You have no need for a jointer to build a
simple stand for a miter saw. Next - plenty of miter saws have been screwed
to a pair of saw horses, and used to cut tons of wood with no risky stuff.
What do you see as risky? Go ahead and do it that way until you come up
with your ultimate solution. Or, screw a piece of plywood to the horses and
set your saw on it. You don't need rollers either. You don't move stock
through a miter saw - you place the stock on it. Simple fixed stands at the
right height will work just fine.
As for your url - that looks to be an ok rig for the price. Not the
ultimate, but plenty good enough. If you're anxious to get going with your
saw, then just go buy it. It will work. You're not a contractor, nor are
you going to build the volume of work that Karl and Leon do, so you don't
need to worry about steel vs aluminum or stuff like that.
Here's another option. This was intended to be a temporary stand, and it's
still in use many years after I knocked it together. Probably will be for a
long time. It's just an old gas grill stand. It works for me because I'm
all about the portability of tools in my garage. I do use HF roller stands
with it because I have them for my table saw anyway, but as I said, you
could just knock together a couple of fixed stands in 20 minutes.
http://s1259.beta.photobucket.com/user/mike9369/library/Garage%20Tools?page=1
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Here's another option. This was intended to be a temporary stand, and
> it's still in use many years after I knocked it together. Probably
> will be for a long time. It's just an old gas grill stand. It works
> for me because I'm all about the portability of tools in my garage. I
> do use HF roller stands with it because I have them for my table saw
> anyway, but as I said, you could just knock together a couple of fixed
> stands in 20 minutes.
> http://s1259.beta.photobucket.com/user/mike9369/library/Garage%20Tools?page=1
Mike,
Very creative use of your gas grill stand! That would practically
satisfy my current needs. It might need a fence, I guess it depends! ; )
Cheers,
Bill
Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Here's another option. This was intended to be a temporary stand, and
>> it's still in use many years after I knocked it together. Probably
>> will be for a long time. It's just an old gas grill stand. It works
>> for me because I'm all about the portability of tools in my garage. I
>> do use HF roller stands with it because I have them for my table saw
>> anyway, but as I said, you could just knock together a couple of
>> fixed stands in 20 minutes.
>> http://s1259.beta.photobucket.com/user/mike9369/library/Garage%20Tools?page=1
>
>
> Mike,
>
> Very creative use of your gas grill stand! That would practically
> satisfy my current needs. It might need a fence, I guess it depends!
> ; )
It does benefit from a fence. I had one on this setup but removed it to
make changes to it and... well, you know how it goes...
The good part about something like this is that you get to build it. Put
some of those new tools to use, and get some sawdust on your hands... and in
your shoes.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
woodchucker wrote:
> Mike, nice recycling of a grill stand.
> I think you could make it sturdier by adding a set of stretchers
> underneath , make it a 5" wide stretcher screwed top and bottom after
> drilling holes mount it middle of the front and back.. you can then
> hold wood like Swingman had in his. This will stiffen that puppy up
> nicely. any ply or particle board can be used for the strechers...
That would certainly stiffen it but it's really quite solid as it is. I
know it does not look like it would be but there are stretchers at the
bottom and the mdf serves to act as a stretcher on the top. No wobble, no
racking. Quite solid actually. It was never intended to be a permanant
solution, but it's been around so long now that I guess it will just be
permanant. No real need to replace it. I'm going to throw a box in the
bottom to hold some stuff like my circular saw and some other things. What
you can't see is that underneath the table the saw is bolted to, there is a
chute that directs all of the cut-offs and most all of the sawdust out the
back of the stand. Works reasonably well.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Bill wrote:
> HeyBub wrote:
>>
>> A jointer for a tool stand? You're not making a future heirloom here
>> - sturdy is all that counts.
>>
> None of the 2by material I bring home lies in a plane! :)
>
> Not gonna set a piece of plywood across 2 wavy 2by4s, no not gonna do
> it! : )
>
Buy better 2x4's Bill. They only cost $ 0.50 more than the "interesting"
stuff.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 3/18/2013 8:39 AM, Sonny wrote:
> Before there were CSMSs, I bought Delta's Sawbuck, with the solid table -
> https://www.google.com/search?q=Delta+sawbuck&hl=en&rlz=1T4MXGB_enUS512US513&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=oPpGUfeoJtG74APuvoDYDA&ved=0CDEQsAQ&biw=1280&bih=690
>
> It easily goes anywhere for all sorts of tasks, so mobility is a great asset. The circular saw limits work to smaller cuttings (16" wide, 2 3/4" thick for straight cuts, much wider but less thick for angle cuts), but it surely takes care of 90% of my miter and other cutting tasks that "require" this type of saw. For larger cuttings, I have Delta's 33-890 RAS.
>
> Whether you buy a stand or make one, make sure it is stable, though it shouldn't take much to insure its stability, an adequatley wide footprint. Your CSMS is likely a little heavier than my sawbuck, but establishing the required stability shouldn't take much doing.
>
> It's easy to buy a stand, rather than making one. Steel or aluminum frame? Aluminum should do very well, as hospital/patient gurneys are made with aluminum frames and can handle lots of weight, which prompts me to suggest, if convenient for you....
>
> *It's not uncommon for me to look for a recycle solution, for my own needs, sometimes, so....
>
> Maybe, check out your local hospital and/or ambulance service for a broken gurney (for free?) and use it to make a portable stand. The wheels are tough and dependable, also. This sort of thing is easier for me, since I have a close history with the local hospitals, here, but if convenient and making your own stand is practical for you, check them out for an available gurney.
>
> Facilities can't afford the liability of using a broken gurney, so they just throw them away. One hospital, here, does keep the wheels from damaged gurneys, for replacing on other gurneys, when needed, so a salvvaged gurney may not have wheels.
>
> Most gurneys have collapseable mechanisms and this can possibly be modified/adapted to accommodate foldup, for transport of your CSMS work station.
>
> Maybe even Salvation Army or Goodwill will have a gurney available for cheap.
>
> I have several furniture carts, for my upholstery transport work, made from free salvaged gurneys.
>
> Sonny
>
Thank you, Sonny. As of this morning I AM leaning towards a stand which
will give me "repeatable cuts"--at least in the long term. In
the short term, I can surely do fine with another configuration.
This distinction, was a useful concept, at least for me, that came out
of this thread.
Bill
Bill wrote:
>
> Thank you, Sonny. As of this morning I AM leaning towards a stand
> which will give me "repeatable cuts"--at least in the long term. In
> the short term, I can surely do fine with another configuration.
>
> This distinction, was a useful concept, at least for me, that came
> out of this thread.
>
Anything can give you repeatable cuts Bill. It just has to be secure, and
able to support the length of stock you are working with. That's where
outboard supports become your friend. Repeatablity is mostly in the hands
of the user, and maybe a stop block thrown in for good measure. Even a saw
mounted on a pair of sawhorses can promise you repeatability.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 3/18/2013 9:17 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>
>>
>> Thank you, Sonny. As of this morning I AM leaning towards a stand
>> which will give me "repeatable cuts"--at least in the long term. In
>> the short term, I can surely do fine with another configuration.
>>
>> This distinction, was a useful concept, at least for me, that came
>> out of this thread.
>>
>
> Anything can give you repeatable cuts Bill. It just has to be secure, and
> able to support the length of stock you are working with. That's where
> outboard supports become your friend. Repeatablity is mostly in the hands
> of the user, and maybe a stop block thrown in for good measure. Even a saw
> mounted on a pair of sawhorses can promise you repeatability.
>
It seems like the stop-block and the fence are essential elements for
repeatability of decent-sized work. Without them, how do you achieve it?
BTW, it appears that the ends of the Port-A-Mate are designed to work as
stop-blocks. I'll be paying attention!
Bill
On 3/18/13 9:28 AM, Bill wrote:
> On 3/18/2013 9:17 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Thank you, Sonny. As of this morning I AM leaning towards a stand
>>> which will give me "repeatable cuts"--at least in the long term. In
>>> the short term, I can surely do fine with another configuration.
>>>
>>> This distinction, was a useful concept, at least for me, that came
>>> out of this thread.
>>>
>>
>> Anything can give you repeatable cuts Bill. It just has to be secure,
>> and
>> able to support the length of stock you are working with. That's where
>> outboard supports become your friend. Repeatablity is mostly in the
>> hands
>> of the user, and maybe a stop block thrown in for good measure. Even
>> a saw
>> mounted on a pair of sawhorses can promise you repeatability.
>>
>
> It seems like the stop-block and the fence are essential elements for
> repeatability of decent-sized work. Without them, how do you achieve it?
>
> BTW, it appears that the ends of the Port-A-Mate are designed to work as
> stop-blocks. I'll be paying attention!
>
> Bill
>
If you want exact, repeated cuts, the first time, use stop blocks.
Plain and simple.
Unless you're building a deck where 1/8" is pretty good tolerance. :-)
You just don't get several pieces of wood cut to pass the finger test*
by eyeballing a laser against a pencil mark. If you do get a couple to
be a perfect match, it was luck.
*Finger test: all cut pieces stacked together, one end against a fence
that is perfectly square to the table. When rubbing your finger down the
stacked, cut ends, your finger cannot feels any "seems" between the
pieces. They all feel like one piece of wood.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> HeyBub wrote:
>>> A jointer for a tool stand? You're not making a future heirloom here
>>> - sturdy is all that counts.
>>>
>> None of the 2by material I bring home lies in a plane! :)
>>
>> Not gonna set a piece of plywood across 2 wavy 2by4s, no not gonna do
>> it! : )
>>
> Buy better 2x4's Bill. They only cost $ 0.50 more than the "interesting"
> stuff.
I don't skip on em Mike. I was just exaggerating a little..and I avoid
the S-shaped ones.
Mike Marlow wrote:
> The good part about something like this is that you get to build it.
> Put some of those new tools to use, and get some sawdust on your
> hands... and in your shoes.
Yes, it's good for the soul! : )
The main thing that is making me pause (and ponder) is the "fine
tuning": How to get the sides precisely the same as the height of the
saw.
I just got this idea:
How about securing the saw to a square plywood base (4 bolts), then
using about 12 more bolts to secure that base say 1" above another
plywood base, using 3 nuts to accomplish this for the latter 12 (one at
the bottom securing the bolt to the lower base, and one above and below
the top base).
That ought to save about $200, I mean support the saw, ya think?! Let me
know if "the picture" is not clear.
Bill
On Mon, 18 Mar 2013 15:52:34 -0400, Bill wrote:
> The main thing that is making me pause (and ponder) is the "fine
> tuning":
> How to get the sides precisely the same as the height of the saw.
It's easier to adjust the saw. Aim for about 1/16" to 1/8" low and use
washers and shim stock to bring it up to the height of the sides.
--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.
Bill wrote:
>
> It seems like the stop-block and the fence are essential elements for
> repeatability of decent-sized work. Without them, how do you
> achieve it?
Careful measurements or a story stick, and a good cut.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> The good part about something like this is that you get to build it.
>> Put some of those new tools to use, and get some sawdust on your
>> hands... and in your shoes.
>
> Yes, it's good for the soul! : )
>
> The main thing that is making me pause (and ponder) is the "fine
> tuning": How to get the sides precisely the same as the height of
> the saw.
>
Measure them. Then make some cuts.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Bill wrote:
>
> How about securing the saw to a square plywood base (4 bolts), then
> using about 12 more bolts to secure that base say 1" above another
> plywood base, using 3 nuts to accomplish this for the latter 12 (one
> at the bottom securing the bolt to the lower base, and one above and
> below the top base).
Anyone think this is a good idea? Here is a pic of one of the 12 (hex)
bolts I mented along with the 2 plywood bases:
| |
| | | | { saw here }
---------------------------
---------------------------
| | | |
| |
| |
| | | |
---------------------------
---------------------------
|__|
Bill wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>>
>> How about securing the saw to a square plywood base (4 bolts), then
>> using about 12 more bolts to secure that base say 1" above another
>> plywood base, using 3 nuts to accomplish this for the latter 12 (one
>> at the bottom securing the bolt to the lower base, and one above and
>> below the top base).
>
> Anyone think this is a good idea? Here is a pic of one of the 12
> (hex) bolts I mented along with the 2 plywood bases:
>
That can work Bill, but it seems overly complicated to me. It's not hard to
measure the height of your saw, and then just cut lumber to fit. Cut a
whisker fat and creep up on it if you need to in order to be more
comfortable about it.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Bill wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>>
>> How about securing the saw to a square plywood base (4 bolts), then
>> using about 12 more bolts to secure that base say 1" above another
>> plywood base, using 3 nuts to accomplish this for the latter 12 (one
>> at the bottom securing the bolt to the lower base, and one above and
>> below the top base).
>
> Anyone think this is a good idea? Here is a pic of one of the 12
> (hex) bolts I mented along with the 2 plywood bases:
>
And... as someone mentioned (Jeff?), it's easier to build the stand and then
adjust the saw to fit in it - using a bolt and nut scheme like you're
currently thinking. That way you only need four bolts and nut combinations.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 3/18/2013 11:21 PM, Bill wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>>
>> How about securing the saw to a square plywood base (4 bolts), then
>> using about 12 more bolts to secure that base say 1" above another
>> plywood base, using 3 nuts to accomplish this for the latter 12 (one
>> at the bottom securing the bolt to the lower base, and one above and
>> below the top base).
>
> Anyone think this is a good idea? Here is a pic of one of the 12 (hex)
> bolts I mented along with the 2 plywood bases:
Sorry, that should be "mentioned", not "mented".
>
>
> | |
> | | | | { saw here }
> ---------------------------
> ---------------------------
> | | | |
> | |
> | |
> | | | |
> ---------------------------
> ---------------------------
> |___|
>
On 3/19/2013 6:34 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>> How about securing the saw to a square plywood base (4 bolts), then
>>> using about 12 more bolts to secure that base say 1" above another
>>> plywood base, using 3 nuts to accomplish this for the latter 12 (one
>>> at the bottom securing the bolt to the lower base, and one above and
>>> below the top base).
>>
>> Anyone think this is a good idea? Here is a pic of one of the 12
>> (hex) bolts I mented along with the 2 plywood bases:
>>
>
> And... as someone mentioned (Jeff?), it's easier to build the stand and then
> adjust the saw to fit in it - using a bolt and nut scheme like you're
> currently thinking. That way you only need four bolts and nut combinations.
>
Since the heavy saw on a base is being supported by a structure of bolts
mounted in plywood, 8-12 of them seems prudent (to me), as they will
support a fair amount of weight and vibration.
And if, I mean when, anything changes (for instance if the wood sags a
little), I will be able to adjust height/level of the saw with relative
ease using nuts. Is there any reason to use other than size 3/8" hex
bolts (and the obvious washers and split washers) for this purpose?
Well, with that "leveling issue" more or less worked out, I can start
thinking about the rest of the stand. I really like the design stage!
Admittedly, I'm far from the advanced level where I might consider
"abstract elements" such as BBQ grills in my design--maybe someday! : )
More later!
Cheers,
Bill
Bill wrote:
>
> Since the heavy saw on a base is being supported by a structure of
> bolts mounted in plywood, 8-12 of them seems prudent (to me), as they
> will support a fair amount of weight and vibration.
This is where the experiences of others can save you a bunch of worry and
unnecessary design time. There isn't a need for a double base. Your saw
has a plenty sturdy enough casting for a base. You can simply use the
mounting bolts that go through the base to make any adjustments. You
certainly can over design based on things that seem intuitive to you, but
we're trying to help you by telling you that those particular worries are
not valid.
>
> And if, I mean when, anything changes (for instance if the wood sags a
> little), I will be able to adjust height/level of the saw with
> relative ease using nuts. Is there any reason to use other than
> size 3/8" hex bolts (and the obvious washers and split washers) for
> this purpose?
You aren't going to see sag if you build it properly. The weight is
distributed evenly across a farily wide area. Use 3/4" plywood and it won't
sag over the area that you're talking about. Look at the pictures that have
been posted. Karl and I have both posted pictures that disprove your
worries about sag. And mine - because it was never meant to be permanant,
was thrown together with MDF. It has not sagged at all, and still cuts just
like it did when I built it. You're worrying too much again Bill.
>
> Well, with that "leveling issue" more or less worked out, I can start
> thinking about the rest of the stand. I really like the design stage!
> Admittedly, I'm far from the advanced level where I might consider
> "abstract elements" such as BBQ grills in my design--maybe someday!
You've more than worked it out Bill - you've made it an issue that did not
exist.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 3/19/2013 8:51 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> This is where the experiences of others can save you a bunch of worry and
> unnecessary design time. There isn't a need for a double base. Your saw
> has a plenty sturdy enough casting for a base. You can simply use the
> mounting bolts that go through the base to make any adjustments.
I see (I think). I apply the 3-nut on a bolt system to the saw base
(atop the plywood base). That WILL save some time, and I will only need
4 bolts.
Bill
Swingman wrote:
> On 3/19/2013 6:57 AM, Bill wrote:
>
>> Since the heavy saw on a base is being supported by a structure of
>> bolts mounted in plywood, 8-12 of them seems prudent (to me), as
>> they will support a fair amount of weight and vibration.
>
> Having lived for years with a shimmed miter saw installation (plastic
> shims when they became available) on a shop built wooden stand, I
> concur with your quest to come up with some type of metal,
> screw/thread based, leveling/flushing mechanism.
>
> If you can pull it off, you will find that to be a much more
> preferable solution than shimming a miter saw, where being flush with
> the wings can affect both the cut and safety, and all too often has
> to be tweaked with every change in weather or movement.
Reading Karl's comment I am now wondering if I somehow lost track of the
conversation. Are you thinking about building a stand like Karl showed used
to have Bill? Somehow I had the notion that you were going down the road of
something less permanent. My comments to you might still be appropriate if
you are thinking of a rig like Karl's original stand, but I guess I'm
confused as to your direction.
As for movement - I have never had to adjust my stand or my saw. That might
be because of large differences in humidity between Houston and Syracuse,
which causes Karl problems that I don't see up here, or it could be because
Karl is much more critical of tolerances than I am. With the work he
produces, the latter could very well be the case.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Swingman wrote:
>> On 3/19/2013 6:57 AM, Bill wrote:
>>
>>> Since the heavy saw on a base is being supported by a structure of
>>> bolts mounted in plywood, 8-12 of them seems prudent (to me), as
>>> they will support a fair amount of weight and vibration.
>> Having lived for years with a shimmed miter saw installation (plastic
>> shims when they became available) on a shop built wooden stand, I
>> concur with your quest to come up with some type of metal,
>> screw/thread based, leveling/flushing mechanism.
>>
>> If you can pull it off, you will find that to be a much more
>> preferable solution than shimming a miter saw, where being flush with
>> the wings can affect both the cut and safety, and all too often has
>> to be tweaked with every change in weather or movement.
> Reading Karl's comment I am now wondering if I somehow lost track of the
> conversation. Are you thinking about building a stand like Karl showed used
> to have Bill? Somehow I had the notion that you were going down the road of
> something less permanent. My comments to you might still be appropriate if
> you are thinking of a rig like Karl's original stand, but I guess I'm
> confused as to your direction.
>
Well, whatever I build will probably last as long as your BBQ grill
miter saw stand. That's just the way life is. I regret I don't have a
saw yet to use my dado blade. I may use a router-- or my joiner!
Using Karl's words, a "screw/thread based, leveling/flushing mechanism"
may not be inappropriate. Since the saw has four unthreaded 1/2" holes
for fastener bolts, and four 3/16" holes too, attaching the saw to a
second piece of plywood sounds right. It can then be afixed, and
leveled, with 10-12 more bolts. If I am told this is overkill, then I
may cut back. The temperatures are still in the low to mid 20's here,
so I'm still in the talking stage. However, I drew some diagrams today.
A decent stand gets big (long) fast!
Karl made a remark about *safety* that drew my attention. What is at
risk if the blade gets pinched in a cut?
Bill
Puckdropper wrote:
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> *snip*
>
>> Karl made a remark about *safety* that drew my attention. What is at
>> risk if the blade gets pinched in a cut?
>>
>> Bill
>>
> My fence isn't flat, so the blade does occasionally get pinched in the
> cut. Usually, nothing too bad happens and I just have to stop the cut
> and sometimes start again.
>
> It's entirely possible, however, that the piece could get caught, lifted,
> and then thrown back (or richochet) in your direction.
Thank you. I'll try to make sure that doesn't happen! ;)
> Eye protection is
> a must when using any power saw.
>
> Puckdropper
On Wed, 20 Mar 2013 00:33:46 +0000, Puckdropper wrote:
> My fence isn't flat, so the blade does occasionally get pinched in the
> cut. Usually, nothing too bad happens and I just have to stop the cut
> and sometimes start again.
A trick one of the guys I worked with showed me was to put a 2x4 or
equivalent between the fence and the blade so the offcut wasn't against
the fence on the other side - worked wonders when cutting hardwood with
an unfinished edge.
--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.
--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.
On Tue, 19 Mar 2013 20:24:22 -0500, Swingman wrote:
> The most dangerous cut on a miter saw is one that is not backed up
> firmly to the fence ... ALWAYS insure that the cut on a miter saw is
> made with the stock firmly against the fence, including edge on angle
> cuts. No exceptions.
Well, I just posted an exception :-).
--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.
Swingman wrote:
> On 3/20/2013 2:59 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
>
>> ...that and using a blade with a lot of positive rake. I learned that
>> the hard way when I mounted my Freud Ultimate Crosscut blade on the CMS.
>> It would pick up short cut offs and wing them violently... I didn't
>> realize what was causing the problem initially and ended up damaging the
>> blade guard. That blade works just fine on the table saw... Stick with
>> neutral or negative rake teeth on the CMSs... My Forrest Chopmaster
>> blade leaves cutoffs laying on the saw and if they vibrate into the
>> blade before it stops they just sit there.
>
> My lesson was similar some 35 years ago, cutting an angle on the end
> of a longer board without backing up the cut with the fence/or clamps
> ... luckily all I lost were four finger nails on my left hand (and a
> months worth of bass gigs) when the blade hit a defect and slammed the
> board against the fence, taking my hand with it.
>
> The speed at which it happened still makes me shiver at the thought.
I appreciate the benefit of the lesson over the Internet. I do not need
a "first hand" lesson!
Bill
Swingman wrote:
>
> My lesson was similar some 35 years ago, cutting an angle on the end
> of a longer board without backing up the cut with the fence/or clamps
> ... luckily all I lost were four finger nails on my left hand (and a
> months worth of bass gigs) when the blade hit a defect and slammed
> the board against the fence, taking my hand with it.
>
I was wondering what you were referring to when you had posted your original
caution, not able to figure out what you meant. Now I understand. With
that understanding - I fully agree.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 3/20/2013 3:59 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
> "Swingman" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>> An "extension" to the fence is not an "exception", but is in actuality
>> still using the fence.
>
>> I'll say it again, you want to get hurt on a miter saw sooner or
>> later, practice cutting without using the fence, you will live to
>> regret it.
>
> ...that and using a blade with a lot of positive rake. I learned that
> the hard way when I mounted my Freud Ultimate Crosscut blade on the CMS.
> It would pick up short cut offs and wing them violently... I didn't
> realize what was causing the problem initially and ended up damaging the
> blade guard. That blade works just fine on the table saw... Stick with
> neutral or negative rake teeth on the CMSs... My Forrest Chopmaster
> blade leaves cutoffs laying on the saw and if they vibrate into the
> blade before it stops they just sit there.
>
>
>
I think that was the problem too with mine before I destroyed my
Makita,, I had the 80tooth Freud, and it lifted the piece up and I had
kick back. Freud replaced the blade, (everyone here told me I must not
have had it against the fence,but it happened again after the
replacement blade came in, and yes I had it against the fence.
My older blade never had that happen, so I came to the same conclusion
that the rake (even though they said it was for miter saws) was too much
for the CMS...
That was a costly blade to have to learn that on.
--
Jeff
On 3/17/2013 6:23 PM, Bill wrote:
> Do you think this (see link below) is a reasonable miter saw stand
> (Masterforce MX124),or should I insist on crafting something myself?
> FWIW, I collected anew Delta DW713saw, so far untested! :)I did get in
> some shop time this weekend, but on an unrelated repair.
>
> http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/work-support/masterforce-universal-miter-saw-work-station/p-1846173-c-10164.htm
>
>
> The main issueI see with making my own is my lack of a jointer. Another
> option is to mount the saw on a table (or saw horses) and use a roller
> stand (I've seen pictures of that being done, but it looksrisky). It's
> not like I'm planning to build a deck or anythinglike that--more like,
> "clamp stand" and "plant table".
>
> Bill
>
That depends, my personal feelings on these type of stands is that they
server the contractor better than a woodworker.
But if you are just using it for home repair then it probably fits the
bill (no pun intended)... But if you plan to gravitate to furniture,
etc.. then the drawbacks I see are repeatabliity (acurately)
Will you actually set it up. I picked up a kitchen cabinet from a
neighbor, built wings and mounted it. I don't have long wings, like that
in your setup. But I can comfortably put an eight foot board on by
adding my roller or ball bearing supports. My wings give me 43 inches
left and right of the blade.
It's good price. BTW you don't need a jointer to make one. use mdf,
mdo, baltic birch, or cab grade ply. if you don't have a TS yet, route
your dados. The most imporant dados are the fence. the support can be
more crude, it just has to keep the fence from deflecting.
See if you can find reviews.. if you are purchasing that. Don't wind up
buying twice.
--
Jeff
On Sun, 17 Mar 2013 18:23:04 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Do you think this (see link below) is a reasonable miter saw stand
>(Masterforce MX124),or should I insist on crafting something myself?
>FWIW, I collected anew Delta DW713saw, so far untested! :)I did get in
>some shop time this weekend, but on an unrelated repair.
>
>http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/work-support/masterforce-universal-miter-saw-work-station/p-1846173-c-10164.htm
>
>The main issueI see with making my own is my lack of a jointer. Another
>option is to mount the saw on a table (or saw horses) and use a roller
>stand (I've seen pictures of that being done, but it looksrisky). It's
>not like I'm planning to build a deck or anythinglike that--more like,
>"clamp stand" and "plant table".
>
>Bill
$64,,, 71 lbs of twisted steel & sex appeal ;-)
http://www.harborfreight.com/mobile-folding-power-tool-stand-40612.html
nuff said....
On Sat, 7 Apr 2018 10:33:51 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Saturday, April 7, 2018 at 11:27:54 AM UTC-4, Markem wrote:
>> On Sat, 7 Apr 2018 06:53:05 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >That's one of the beauties of using GG.
>> >Very portable and sync'd across all devices.
>>
>> One of few, maybe the only one.
>
>I originally switched to GG because it was the only way to access usenet
>on my corporate desktop, upon which I was not allowed to add a standalone
>newsreader. Once I realized the convenience of portability/syncing, I saw
>no reason to continue using separate newsreaders on my multiple devices.
>
>Sure, I took a lot of crap from die-hard usenet/newsreader bigots, many
>of whom plonked Google Groupers just out of "principle", but F them. It
>is they that missed the opportunity to partake of my wisdom. ;-)
Like the interface when it was Deja News, not so much when Google
bought them.
On 4/7/2018 8:56 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Saturday, April 7, 2018 at 9:46:18 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> On Friday, April 6, 2018 at 3:46:28 PM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>>> John McGaw <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>> On 4/6/2018 2:14 PM, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
>>>>>> replying to Bill, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
>>>>>> The stand is a very nice stand. My problem is with the instructions. The
>>>>>> figures don't come close to matching the instructions. Very poorly written and
>>>>>> confusing
>>>>>
>>>>> Why is it we're suddenly seeing all of these replies to ancient posts? In
>>>>> this case we're talking five years although in one recent case it was
>>>>> fifteen(!) years old. C'mon folks. Take a look at the original date and ask
>>>>> yourself if anything you post might still be relevant.
>>>>
>>>> Home Moaners Hub and Google Groups, neither of which prominently show
>>>> the posting date apparently.
>>>
>>> Not sure what you mean by that. Both HOH and GG prominently show the date
>>> in the upper right corner of every post. HOH even includes the words
>>> "posted on".
>>>
>>>> HMH is simply driving traffic to their
>>>> site, so they likely DGAS.
>>>
>>> DGAS?
>>>
>>> What does the Delta Natural Gas Company have to do with this? Do you
>>> own some of their stock? ;-)
>>>
>>
>> Do a google search.
>
> That's DAGS, not DGAS.
>
> II was giving Scott a little bit of Mike's $hit. ;-)
>
I think that is what he meant. I often say FIY in place of FYI
On 4/6/2018 2:14 PM, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
> replying to Bill, Curtis M Gauthier wrote:
> The stand is a very nice stand. My problem is with the instructions. The
> figures don't come close to matching the instructions. Very poorly written and
> confusing
Why is it we're suddenly seeing all of these replies to ancient posts? In
this case we're talking five years although in one recent case it was
fifteen(!) years old. C'mon folks. Take a look at the original date and ask
yourself if anything you post might still be relevant.