I have heard all the advise in this group about how great Johnson's paste wax
is. It is loved, it is recommended, it is needed, "you need it" "I need it" and "oh
it's getting hard to find these days"... I found it at my local true value for $6.99.
I used it on plane blades, cap irons, lever caps, soles and sides too. Thoroughly
done coating and polishing.
Now, nothing derogatory is intended here. But I noticed, when a lot of work is
being done my hands get hot and sweaty, when the protected metal is being
handled, the JPW gets gets "tacky" and it gets on my hands, the metal also needs
a new coating of it.
I also noticed that after a plane has been sittng a while on a shelf there develops
small rust spots, JPW doesn't work too good I think. I suppose a coating needs to
be thin and hard in order not to be obtrusive in any way, and actually work as
intended.
Could there possibly be a better answer for a tool that is actually used and handled
a lot? Perfect wipe-on product? Any help much appreciated.
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
Wax works for me. I live in Seattle.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in
> > news:[email protected]:
>
> >
> > This, I think, is a valid experience in Houston, Texas. More temperate
> > climates, such as coastal areas of California, have fewer problems
related
> > to humidity.
>
> Ah thanks for saying what I left out. I should have said, for those that
> find that Wax is not adequate, Top Cote would be a wise direction to go.
>
>
>
>
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:QYSre.3112$Ce7.2350@fed1read03...
>
> I have heard all the advise in this group about how great Johnson's paste
wax
> is. It is loved, it is recommended, it is needed, "you need it" "I need
it" and "oh
> it's getting hard to find these days"... I found it at my local true value
for $6.99.
>
> I used it on plane blades, cap irons, lever caps, soles and sides too.
Thoroughly
> done coating and polishing.
>
> Now, nothing derogatory is intended here. But I noticed, when a lot of
work is
> being done my hands get hot and sweaty, when the protected metal is being
> handled, the JPW gets gets "tacky" and it gets on my hands, the metal also
needs
> a new coating of it.
>
> I also noticed that after a plane has been sittng a while on a shelf there
develops
> small rust spots, JPW doesn't work too good I think. I suppose a coating
needs to
> be thin and hard in order not to be obtrusive in any way, and actually
work as
> intended.
>
> Could there possibly be a better answer for a tool that is actually used
and handled
> a lot? Perfect wipe-on product? Any help much appreciated.
>
Lots of them claim they are. I just use WD-40. Doesn't seem to do any
worse than any other method I've tried, and it's a hell of a lot easier.
"George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:QYSre.3112$Ce7.2350@fed1read03...
> >
> > I have heard all the advise in this group about how great Johnson's
paste
> wax
> > is. It is loved, it is recommended, it is needed, "you need it" "I need
> it" and "oh
> > it's getting hard to find these days"... I found it at my local true
value
> for $6.99.
> >
> > I used it on plane blades, cap irons, lever caps, soles and sides too.
> Thoroughly
> > done coating and polishing.
> >
> > Now, nothing derogatory is intended here. But I noticed, when a lot of
> work is
> > being done my hands get hot and sweaty, when the protected metal is
being
> > handled, the JPW gets gets "tacky" and it gets on my hands, the metal
also
> needs
> > a new coating of it.
> >
> > I also noticed that after a plane has been sittng a while on a shelf
there
> develops
> > small rust spots, JPW doesn't work too good I think. I suppose a coating
> needs to
> > be thin and hard in order not to be obtrusive in any way, and actually
> work as
> > intended.
> >
> > Could there possibly be a better answer for a tool that is actually used
> and handled
> > a lot? Perfect wipe-on product? Any help much appreciated.
> >
>
> Lots of them claim they are. I just use WD-40. Doesn't seem to do any
> worse than any other method I've tried, and it's a hell of a lot easier.
>
I'll second that, although I find WD-40 needs to be re-applied more
frequently. Still, at the end of the day I wouldn't spend more than 10 mins
giving every tool used a quick spray'n'wipe... and I'd wipe down every tool
anyway as part of daily maintenance even if I wasn't using WD-40.
IMHO CRC is a good alternative, although I tend to reserve that for
automotive use. (Wet electrics, etc.)
I should add two things:
1) It dissolves grease so be careful /where/ you use it! On the
flip-side, I've a couple of "squeaky wheels" that can't be regreased.
Cheap tools. [sigh] I liberally apply it *very* regularly then & I'm sure
they've lasted a lot longer than they would've otherwise.
2) I only use it for tools in regular use; "stored" ones need something
longer lasting. Personally I'm happy with light machine oil on infrequently
used tools and a light-weight grease on the rare-use items, but even then
I'll wipe 'em down and give 'em a squirt of WD-40 before use. And a
re-application of oil/grease later, but each to their own. FWIW, I've
inherited a lot of old tools and they're still almost as good as new. Well,
as good as I got 'em, anyway.
'Tis all common sense, really, but that seems to be a rare commodity.
- Andy
"Sweet Sawdust" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A few tips on using JPW:
> Thin coats are better then thick coats, thick coats do not dry properly
and
> tend to leave holes in the protection. After a thin coat has been applied
> and turns cloudy, buff it to a shine, it will dry harder and not be as
> subject to getting "tacky" when handled. JPW will evaporate with time to
> avoid this multiple then coats can be used to form a thick built up coat.
> Common solvents, such used in spray oils, etc. will dissolve JPW even if
> they are in the air. Used properly JPW will form a coating that will
> protect metal from rust for years. I have been using it for near on to 40
> years and have very few problems with it.
>
>
Lot of folks disagree that wax alone can form a "thick coat" if buffed off.
Seems they contend that the solvent in the next "coat" dissolves and blends
with the first.
AAvK wrote:
snip
>
> Could there possibly be a better answer for a tool that is actually used and handled
> a lot? Perfect wipe-on product? Any help much appreciated.
>
I shave up paraffin wax & dissolve it in mineral spirits. I keep it in a
spray can I got from harbor fright. (Pressurized with air). I spray
it on and it seems to work for me. Not tacky and doesn't attract dust.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
One billion Chinese can't be Wong.
----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----
"Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon,
>
> Ever try Waxilit?
Noooo. but that looks interesting for what it is actually intended. With
Top Cote I apply about once every 6 months and just spray it on. I do not
have to wipe it off.
Cosmoline.
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:QYSre.3112$Ce7.2350@fed1read03...
>
> I have heard all the advise in this group about how great Johnson's paste
wax
> is. It is loved, it is recommended, it is needed, "you need it" "I need
it" and "oh
> it's getting hard to find these days"... I found it at my local true value
for $6.99.
>
> I used it on plane blades, cap irons, lever caps, soles and sides too.
Thoroughly
> done coating and polishing.
>
> Now, nothing derogatory is intended here. But I noticed, when a lot of
work is
> being done my hands get hot and sweaty, when the protected metal is being
> handled, the JPW gets gets "tacky" and it gets on my hands, the metal also
needs
> a new coating of it.
>
> I also noticed that after a plane has been sittng a while on a shelf there
develops
> small rust spots, JPW doesn't work too good I think. I suppose a coating
needs to
> be thin and hard in order not to be obtrusive in any way, and actually
work as
> intended.
>
> Could there possibly be a better answer for a tool that is actually used
and handled
> a lot? Perfect wipe-on product? Any help much appreciated.
>
> --
> Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
> cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
> not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
>
>
>A few tips on using JPW:
> Thin coats are better then thick coats, thick coats do not dry properly and
> tend to leave holes in the protection. After a thin coat has been applied
> and turns cloudy, buff it to a shine, it will dry harder and not be as
> subject to getting "tacky" when handled. JPW will evaporate with time to
> avoid this multiple then coats can be used to form a thick built up coat.
> Common solvents, such used in spray oils, etc. will dissolve JPW even if
> they are in the air. Used properly JPW will form a coating that will
> protect metal from rust for years. I have been using it for near on to 40
> years and have very few problems with it.
>
>
You have been using it for forty years, I have bought my first can of it,
and I am forty. Irony. So it is just a slower, more careful procedure.
Thanks for the info!
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
I'm not a chemist or anything like that but it does build up to form a thick
coat even when buffed off. Seems that there is only so much solvent in a
gob of wax, when it dries the solvent is gone and the solid particles stay
in place, the next gob put on has the same amount of solvents but is now
dealing with twice as much solids and so on until you get to the point where
a build up starts because not all of the old solids are dissolved. JMO
"> Lot of folks disagree that wax alone can form a "thick coat" if buffed
off.
> Seems they contend that the solvent in the next "coat" dissolves and
blends
> with the first.
>
>
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Eventually I think most people migrate to Top Cote. Make for this
> specific purpose and has been working great for me since 1989. IMHO
> waxing is a temporary patch.
>
This, I think, is a valid experience in Houston, Texas. More temperate
climates, such as coastal areas of California, have fewer problems related
to humidity.
Of course, the ground moves, things burn, and you don't want to ask about
house prices. But the tools don't rust so much. Wax is adequate for me.
Patriarch,
wondering when the plague of locusts is due...
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Could there possibly be a better answer for a tool that is actually used
> and handled
> a lot? Perfect wipe-on product? Any help much appreciated.
>
> --
I've not had all that good luck with the wax either. I use Top Cote or
Boeshield and get much better results. To remove rust, a product called
Top Saver does an incredible job. Made by tablesaw look like new.
On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 02:58:12 -0700, "AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I have heard all the advise in this group about how great Johnson's paste wax
>is. It is loved, it is recommended, it is needed, "you need it" "I need it" and "oh
>it's getting hard to find these days"... I found it at my local true value for $6.99.
>
>I used it on plane blades, cap irons, lever caps, soles and sides too. Thoroughly
>done coating and polishing.
>
>Now, nothing derogatory is intended here. But I noticed, when a lot of work is
>being done my hands get hot and sweaty, when the protected metal is being
>handled, the JPW gets gets "tacky" and it gets on my hands, the metal also needs
>a new coating of it.
>
>I also noticed that after a plane has been sittng a while on a shelf there develops
>small rust spots, JPW doesn't work too good I think. I suppose a coating needs to
>be thin and hard in order not to be obtrusive in any way, and actually work as
>intended.
>
>Could there possibly be a better answer for a tool that is actually used and handled
>a lot? Perfect wipe-on product? Any help much appreciated.
in most cases, if you're getting wax on your hands, you either put it on too
thick or didn't buff it enough..
I've been using JPW on saw tables, blades, hand saws, etc., etc. for years and
have never had it transfer or get tacky.. YMMV
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1A0se.66$Lr4.10@fed1read03...
>
>> Leon,
>>
>> Ever try Waxilit?
>>
>> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=&p=32092&cat=1,43415,43440
>>
>> --
>
> Thanks, probably will if I can find it.
LeeValley has it. ;~)
I don't use it much on tools, but I do use it on my table saw and
other bench type tool tops with success. It not only protects, but
makes the wood slide around easier.
I also use it as a finish coat on wood boxes I make. I usually stain,
then spray a couple of coats of lacquer then top off with 3-4 coats of
JPW buffed out.
On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 02:58:12 -0700, "AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I have heard all the advise in this group about how great Johnson's paste wax
>is. It is loved, it is recommended, it is needed, "you need it" "I need it" and "oh
>it's getting hard to find these days"... I found it at my local true value for $6.99.
>
>I used it on plane blades, cap irons, lever caps, soles and sides too. Thoroughly
>done coating and polishing.
>
>Now, nothing derogatory is intended here. But I noticed, when a lot of work is
>being done my hands get hot and sweaty, when the protected metal is being
>handled, the JPW gets gets "tacky" and it gets on my hands, the metal also needs
>a new coating of it.
>
>I also noticed that after a plane has been sittng a while on a shelf there develops
>small rust spots, JPW doesn't work too good I think. I suppose a coating needs to
>be thin and hard in order not to be obtrusive in any way, and actually work as
>intended.
>
>Could there possibly be a better answer for a tool that is actually used and handled
>a lot? Perfect wipe-on product? Any help much appreciated.
"Patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> This, I think, is a valid experience in Houston, Texas. More temperate
> climates, such as coastal areas of California, have fewer problems related
> to humidity.
Ah thanks for saying what I left out. I should have said, for those that
find that Wax is not adequate, Top Cote would be a wise direction to go.
On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 02:58:12 -0700, AAvK wrote:
>
> I have heard all the advise in this group about how great Johnson's paste
> wax is. It is loved, it is recommended, it is needed, "you need it" "I
> need it" and "oh it's getting hard to find these days"... I found it at my
> local true value for $6.99.
This advice is usually given for tables and other large, flat, machined
surfaces.
<...>
> Could there possibly be a better answer for a tool that is actually used
> and handled a lot? Perfect wipe-on product? Any help much appreciated.
I use camellia oil for hand tools. A quick wipe-down after the tool has
been used keeps the rust away. It's traditionally what Japanese
woodworkers use on their hand tools.
--
-Joe Wells
A few tips on using JPW:
Thin coats are better then thick coats, thick coats do not dry properly and
tend to leave holes in the protection. After a thin coat has been applied
and turns cloudy, buff it to a shine, it will dry harder and not be as
subject to getting "tacky" when handled. JPW will evaporate with time to
avoid this multiple then coats can be used to form a thick built up coat.
Common solvents, such used in spray oils, etc. will dissolve JPW even if
they are in the air. Used properly JPW will form a coating that will
protect metal from rust for years. I have been using it for near on to 40
years and have very few problems with it.
Leon,
Ever try Waxilit?
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=&p=32092&cat=1,43415,43440
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Eventually I think most people migrate to Top Cote. Make for this
specific
> purpose and has been working great for me since 1989. IMHO waxing is a
> temporary patch.
>
>
>