9000 Series
Super-Clear Polyurethane
One-Part Hybrid Copolymer
Part # 9100, 9200, 9500
anyone use this for a tabletop? I'm looking for a sprayable waterborne
product that dries fast and hard.
I talked to their rep about poly carbonate coatings, but wince at the
price - more than $70 delivered per gallon (with tax).
I guess CV is out of the question as that uses nasty xylene. From what
I gathered today, waterborne lacs won't be as hard as some other finishes.
Am I gonna have to resort to a high quality poly? If so, does the one
listed at the top dry a LOT faster than Minwhacks?
OR what's the story on durability of acrylics? If they are good,
waterborne, what brand?
I'm running out of options for spraying my desk. I thought Sherwin
Williams would have something but unless I go with a solvent based
product they didn't have anything that sounded fast drying and table-top
worthy.
Lord, deliver me from the poly based blues - I didn't get all this
equipment to spray that stuff.
Oh, WW gods, show me the way...
dave
Dave,
Check out this link,
http://davidswoodshop.homestead.com/
It is an oak table I made for a friend. I used Minwax oil based poly, I put
two coats a day on. One morning and then one in the evening, building up
quite a thick layer, most of which I sanded off as I back sanding the table
flat. Ash is quite similar to red oak in porosity. The couple I gave the
table too have cats and dogs and I had to make the finish bullet proof. Two
years later the table still looks great. Oil base poly isn't as evil as
C'less would have you believe.
Read the text on the web page, let me know what you think and ask any
questions you may have.
Thanks,
David.
Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.
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Hi BAD.
When I was making a couple of dozen oak table tops for a restaurant last summer I
asked around and found that a couple of big manufactures had switched to using WB
urethane exclusively. Target was one of the brands that was mentioned favourably.
As mentioned in an earlier post, I used a Flecto product and was happy with the
finished product. And I sprayed four coats a day. Next time I will give Target or
Turbinaire's product a go.
Oh yeah, and loose your concern for "burn-in" just practice, practice, practice a
lot with your new sprayer. For me this is more important than the type of finish
you ultimately choose. I would not make you dream project your first spray
project. Cheers, JG
Bay Area Dave wrote:
> Red oak. I'm gonna stain it with Bonakemi DriFast stain, after filling
> the pores with troweable filler, then use the appropriate sealer that is
> compatible with the topcoat. it'll be used as a desk in a study.
>
> I've called several distributors today, thinking that something
> waterborne would work, but I'd PREFER something that "burns in", dries
> fast, at least as hard as a top quality poly, and doesn't cost in excess
> of $50/gallon like one product at Target coatings. I thought about PSL,
> but the rep said it isn't tough enough for table tops; but great for
> cabinet doors and sides. So what's left: acrylic urethanes? I don't
> want to use xylene or lacquer thinned products if I can help it, but
> then again everyone says that lacquer isn't as tough as some other
> coatings anyway, so lac is out.
>
> If i have to go with poly, I'm sure it'll be hard, but it dries SLOWLY,
> unless there is a great fast drying one that I don't know about yet. If
> I go with waterborne poly, is that gonna be tough enough for a top?
>
> Seems like the best choice is the poly carbonate EM9300 but the cost is
> too much. Over $70/gal delivered. If I was gonna do a bunch of table
> tops I'd get that, but I'm not planning on that coating too many table
> tops. More furniture and cabinets than tops, so I figured I'd be using
> a bit cheaper finishing materials.
>
> My head is spinning with product info: so here is it in a nutshell:
>
> 1. Durable for table tops
> 2. dry quickly (negotiable)
> 3. prefer 100% burn-in product
> 4. waterborne preferred IF product meets items 1-3
> 5. I can spray it since I finally got an HVLP
> 6. No nasty non-California compliant coating
> 7. I'm completely in the dark about acrylic coatings. Are they
> better/worse than oil based poly.
>
> Fall back plan is to use oil based poly but I don't like the look and I
> don't like slow drying times.
>
> dave
>
> David F. Eisan wrote:
>
> > Dave,
> >
> > What sort of finish are you trying to achive? What is the table top/desk top
> > made from? What does it have to endure? I know a lot about finishing and
> > might be able to make a suggestion.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > David.
> >
> > Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
> >
> > Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.
> >
> > Newbies, please read this newsgroups FAQ.
> >
> > rec.ww FAQ http://www.robson.org/woodfaq/
> > Archives http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search
> > Crowbar FAQ http://www.klownhammer.org/crowbar
> >
> >
Red oak. I'm gonna stain it with Bonakemi DriFast stain, after filling
the pores with troweable filler, then use the appropriate sealer that is
compatible with the topcoat. it'll be used as a desk in a study.
I've called several distributors today, thinking that something
waterborne would work, but I'd PREFER something that "burns in", dries
fast, at least as hard as a top quality poly, and doesn't cost in excess
of $50/gallon like one product at Target coatings. I thought about PSL,
but the rep said it isn't tough enough for table tops; but great for
cabinet doors and sides. So what's left: acrylic urethanes? I don't
want to use xylene or lacquer thinned products if I can help it, but
then again everyone says that lacquer isn't as tough as some other
coatings anyway, so lac is out.
If i have to go with poly, I'm sure it'll be hard, but it dries SLOWLY,
unless there is a great fast drying one that I don't know about yet. If
I go with waterborne poly, is that gonna be tough enough for a top?
Seems like the best choice is the poly carbonate EM9300 but the cost is
too much. Over $70/gal delivered. If I was gonna do a bunch of table
tops I'd get that, but I'm not planning on that coating too many table
tops. More furniture and cabinets than tops, so I figured I'd be using
a bit cheaper finishing materials.
My head is spinning with product info: so here is it in a nutshell:
1. Durable for table tops
2. dry quickly (negotiable)
3. prefer 100% burn-in product
4. waterborne preferred IF product meets items 1-3
5. I can spray it since I finally got an HVLP
6. No nasty non-California compliant coating
7. I'm completely in the dark about acrylic coatings. Are they
better/worse than oil based poly.
Fall back plan is to use oil based poly but I don't like the look and I
don't like slow drying times.
dave
David F. Eisan wrote:
> Dave,
>
> What sort of finish are you trying to achive? What is the table top/desk top
> made from? What does it have to endure? I know a lot about finishing and
> might be able to make a suggestion.
>
> Thanks,
>
> David.
>
> Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
>
> Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.
>
> Newbies, please read this newsgroups FAQ.
>
> rec.ww FAQ http://www.robson.org/woodfaq/
> Archives http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search
> Crowbar FAQ http://www.klownhammer.org/crowbar
>
>
Dave,
What sort of finish are you trying to achive? What is the table top/desk top
made from? What does it have to endure? I know a lot about finishing and
might be able to make a suggestion.
Thanks,
David.
Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.
Newbies, please read this newsgroups FAQ.
rec.ww FAQ http://www.robson.org/woodfaq/
Archives http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search
Crowbar FAQ http://www.klownhammer.org/crowbar