Those with weak constitutions as regards stupid beginner questions
may want to avoid the following.
I bought two aniline dye powders from Van Dyke restorers and a 2 oz.
bottle of a concentrated dye solution from Rockler. Both are to be
mixed with water, or water and alcohol, and there may be other
possibilities.
I'm trying to match (reasonably) some other furniture which has a dark
"cordovan" color. I don't expect perfection. What I'd like to ask is
this:
What tips will I wish I'd known about before I did this job? :)
I just read that the water will tend to raise the grain, so I'm going
to wipe down the surfaces with water, let dry and sand lightly before
I stain. I will, of course, work on scrap first. The really visible
part of this project is red oak.
I want a dark color. Can I make a more concentrated solution to make
the color more pronounced? Can I apply the "stain" more than once to
intensify the color? What ten other things am I ignorant of?
Thanks in advance.
Greg Guarino
Greg Guarino wrote:
> Those with weak constitutions as regards stupid beginner questions
> may want to avoid the following.
>
> I bought two aniline dye powders from Van Dyke restorers and a 2 oz.
> bottle of a concentrated dye solution from Rockler. Both are to be
> mixed with water, or water and alcohol, and there may be other
> possibilities.
>
> I'm trying to match (reasonably) some other furniture which has a dark
> "cordovan" color. I don't expect perfection. What I'd like to ask is
> this:
>
> What tips will I wish I'd known about before I did this job? :)
>
> I just read that the water will tend to raise the grain, so I'm going
> to wipe down the surfaces with water, let dry and sand lightly before
> I stain. I will, of course, work on scrap first. The really visible
> part of this project is red oak.
>
> I want a dark color. Can I make a more concentrated solution to make
> the color more pronounced? Can I apply the "stain" more than once to
> intensify the color? What ten other things am I ignorant of?
Have you visited this site?
http://www.refinishwizard.com/phpbb/portal.php
R
Hi Greg,
Make the stain as dark as possible to start with and dilute as necessary.
Applying a second or third coat will not darken the wood significantly
more than than the initial coat.
Waterbased stains often leave the pores in oak showing once the material
dries. I think you might have better luck using alcohol.
Cheers, JG
Greg Guarino wrote:
> Those with weak constitutions as regards stupid beginner questions
> may want to avoid the following.
>
> I bought two aniline dye powders from Van Dyke restorers and a 2 oz.
> bottle of a concentrated dye solution from Rockler. Both are to be
> mixed with water, or water and alcohol, and there may be other
> possibilities.
>
> I'm trying to match (reasonably) some other furniture which has a dark
> "cordovan" color. I don't expect perfection. What I'd like to ask is
> this:
>
> What tips will I wish I'd known about before I did this job? :)
>
> I just read that the water will tend to raise the grain, so I'm going
> to wipe down the surfaces with water, let dry and sand lightly before
> I stain. I will, of course, work on scrap first. The really visible
> part of this project is red oak.
>
> I want a dark color. Can I make a more concentrated solution to make
> the color more pronounced? Can I apply the "stain" more than once to
> intensify the color? What ten other things am I ignorant of?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Greg Guarino
Hi Greg,
Denatured Ethanol (which is normally close to being anhydrous) is what is
usually used. Think of the water spray and the grain raising step as just the
final sanding step. It's really no big deal. I do it as a matter of course now
as the final sanding step. JG
Greg Guarino wrote:
> On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 06:41:10 -0400, JGS <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >Hi Greg,
> > Make the stain as dark as possible to start with and dilute as necessary.
> >Applying a second or third coat will not darken the wood significantly
> >more than than the initial coat.
> > Waterbased stains often leave the pores in oak showing once the material
> >dries. I think you might have better luck using alcohol.
>
> Is there a particular kind of alcohol I need? Is isopropyl OK? Does it
> have to be anhydrous, or 90% or what? If I do this does that mean it
> won't raise the grain and I can skip the step I mentioned?
> >
> >Cheers, JG
> >
> >Greg Guarino wrote:
> >
> >> Those with weak constitutions as regards stupid beginner questions
> >> may want to avoid the following.
> >>
> >> I bought two aniline dye powders from Van Dyke restorers and a 2 oz.
> >> bottle of a concentrated dye solution from Rockler. Both are to be
> >> mixed with water, or water and alcohol, and there may be other
> >> possibilities.
> >>
> >> I'm trying to match (reasonably) some other furniture which has a dark
> >> "cordovan" color. I don't expect perfection. What I'd like to ask is
> >> this:
> >>
> >> What tips will I wish I'd known about before I did this job? :)
> >>
> >> I just read that the water will tend to raise the grain, so I'm going
> >> to wipe down the surfaces with water, let dry and sand lightly before
> >> I stain. I will, of course, work on scrap first. The really visible
> >> part of this project is red oak.
> >>
> >> I want a dark color. Can I make a more concentrated solution to make
> >> the color more pronounced? Can I apply the "stain" more than once to
> >> intensify the color? What ten other things am I ignorant of?
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.
> >>
> >> Greg Guarino
Another site to consider is www.homesteadfinishing.com and search dye
discussions.
On 29 Apr 2006 06:46:39 -0700, "RicodJour" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>Greg Guarino wrote:
>> Those with weak constitutions as regards stupid beginner questions
>> may want to avoid the following.
>>
>> I bought two aniline dye powders from Van Dyke restorers and a 2 oz.
>> bottle of a concentrated dye solution from Rockler. Both are to be
>> mixed with water, or water and alcohol, and there may be other
>> possibilities.
>>
>> I'm trying to match (reasonably) some other furniture which has a dark
>> "cordovan" color. I don't expect perfection. What I'd like to ask is
>> this:
>>
>> What tips will I wish I'd known about before I did this job? :)
>>
>> I just read that the water will tend to raise the grain, so I'm going
>> to wipe down the surfaces with water, let dry and sand lightly before
>> I stain. I will, of course, work on scrap first. The really visible
>> part of this project is red oak.
>>
>> I want a dark color. Can I make a more concentrated solution to make
>> the color more pronounced? Can I apply the "stain" more than once to
>> intensify the color? What ten other things am I ignorant of?
>
>Have you visited this site?
>http://www.refinishwizard.com/phpbb/portal.php
>
>R
"Greg Guarino" wrote...
> The really visible
> part of this project is red oak.
>
> I want a dark color. Can I make a more concentrated solution to make
> the color more pronounced? Can I apply the "stain" more than once to
> intensify the color? What ten other things am I ignorant of?
Greg:
You've got the first step right - raise the grain with water and then sand
lightly.
The dyes will dye the oak just fine, but you may want to mix it a little
darker to start. Mix it dark, do a sample on a piece of scrap oak. If it
is too dark, you can lighten the stain by adding a little water to the mix.
If you stain your project a little too dark, you can lighten it somewhat by
wiping the surface with a wet rag. However, repeated applications of dye
won't really darken further.
Remember, with dye stain, you are actually dyeing the wood just as you would
dye cloth; the dye goes into the fibers of the wood, and you don't want dye
just sitting on the surface.
When you apply the dye, you want to flood the surface of the wood, let it
soak in good, then wipe off the excess.
The liquid dye stain you purchased is very good for tinting water-based
lacquer. Roughly 300 drops per quart, iirc, varying with how dark you want
the tint. Lightly tinted lacquer can give a real nice luminous color
effect, and more tint in the lacquer can help mask dissimilar wood colors.
That's all I can think of for now, as I've only had half a cup this morning.
--
Timothy Juvenal
www.rude-tone.com/work.htm
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 06:41:10 -0400, JGS <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Hi Greg,
> Make the stain as dark as possible to start with and dilute as necessary.
>Applying a second or third coat will not darken the wood significantly
>more than than the initial coat.
> Waterbased stains often leave the pores in oak showing once the material
>dries. I think you might have better luck using alcohol.
Is there a particular kind of alcohol I need? Is isopropyl OK? Does it
have to be anhydrous, or 90% or what? If I do this does that mean it
won't raise the grain and I can skip the step I mentioned?
>
>Cheers, JG
>
>Greg Guarino wrote:
>
>> Those with weak constitutions as regards stupid beginner questions
>> may want to avoid the following.
>>
>> I bought two aniline dye powders from Van Dyke restorers and a 2 oz.
>> bottle of a concentrated dye solution from Rockler. Both are to be
>> mixed with water, or water and alcohol, and there may be other
>> possibilities.
>>
>> I'm trying to match (reasonably) some other furniture which has a dark
>> "cordovan" color. I don't expect perfection. What I'd like to ask is
>> this:
>>
>> What tips will I wish I'd known about before I did this job? :)
>>
>> I just read that the water will tend to raise the grain, so I'm going
>> to wipe down the surfaces with water, let dry and sand lightly before
>> I stain. I will, of course, work on scrap first. The really visible
>> part of this project is red oak.
>>
>> I want a dark color. Can I make a more concentrated solution to make
>> the color more pronounced? Can I apply the "stain" more than once to
>> intensify the color? What ten other things am I ignorant of?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Greg Guarino
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 10:58:46 GMT, "Hambone Slim"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Greg Guarino" wrote...
>
>> The really visible
>> part of this project is red oak.
>>
>> I want a dark color. Can I make a more concentrated solution to make
>> the color more pronounced? Can I apply the "stain" more than once to
>> intensify the color? What ten other things am I ignorant of?
>
>Greg:
>
>You've got the first step right - raise the grain with water and then sand
>lightly.
>
>The dyes will dye the oak just fine, but you may want to mix it a little
>darker to start. Mix it dark, do a sample on a piece of scrap oak. If it
>is too dark, you can lighten the stain by adding a little water to the mix.
>
>If you stain your project a little too dark, you can lighten it somewhat by
>wiping the surface with a wet rag. However, repeated applications of dye
>won't really darken further.
>
>Remember, with dye stain, you are actually dyeing the wood just as you would
>dye cloth; the dye goes into the fibers of the wood, and you don't want dye
>just sitting on the surface.
>
>When you apply the dye, you want to flood the surface of the wood, let it
>soak in good, then wipe off the excess.
Do you have a preferred applicator in mind? Brush? Rag? Foam brush?
>The liquid dye stain you purchased is very good for tinting water-based
>lacquer. Roughly 300 drops per quart, iirc, varying with how dark you want
>the tint. Lightly tinted lacquer can give a real nice luminous color
>effect, and more tint in the lacquer can help mask dissimilar wood colors.
I don't know anything about lacquer, but I've heard that people
sometimes tint oils. I think I'll keep it simple if possible.
Thanks.
Greg