Greetings,
I don't want to bore the Wreck with the details, but I'm into a major
remodel of my house. It will realistically take a couple of years,
mainly because I will do a lot of it myself (damn that budget!). It
will involve amongst others, a new kitchen and bathroom.
Although I would like to do the kitchen cabs myself, my time frame
(and current skill levels) won't allow it. But the bathroom cabs are
now on my to-do list. :-) I'm shooting for an asian influenced design,
and my wood of choice is teak. While my wife and I were at a bathroom
supply/design center yesterday we found the exact style we are after.
Made from teak and the design we want. Unfortunately her jaw dropped
when she saw the $2000 (US) price tag on the vanity. Where she is from,
that is what a person earns in a year! (Don't ask, another long story).
She told me to find another kind of cabinet that won't cost so much.
Damn, there goes the bathroom I wanted. :-(
Lo and behold, what was in the mail when we arrived home? The latest
Wood magazine with a bathroom vanity on the front cover!!! She asks if
I can make something like that myself. I tell her honestly that I
haven't made any cabinets (yet), but by following/adapting the magazine
plans I should be able to do it. Of course, I follow with, "But I do
need one more tool in order for this to happen". The DJ-20 (too bad the
price just went up $50) would complete my major machine purchases, and
she gave me the go-ahead to get one. Hot Damn!!!!!
So all of this has led up to a few questions (of course). I'm in the
midst of going through some of the 4,190 references to teak via Google.
Most of the posts are about finishing, but first I seek advice on buying
teak. There are many types of teak, and the cabs we like are Burmese
teak. Do all types of teak have a similar look? Can anyone recommend a
mail order source, or should I find a local hardwood lumber yard and
pick it out myself? I already know it is an expensive wood.
When it comes to machining, I realize using carbide is advisable. Is
teak tough on planer/jointer blades also? Are the DJ-20 blades
reversible, or should I just order a spare set before I need them? It's
worth the price, just to avoid having to stop for sharpening in the
middle of something. As for the mortises, I'll probably get the conical
stone for the chisels.
Lastly (for now), what about glue? I know this has been hashed out
before, is poly the way to go? The oil that gives teak it insect/water
resistant also makes it difficult to glue. I'm still looking through
Google about glue anyway...
Thanks to all who find the time to help me out,
Mark L.
>Made from teak and the design we want. Unfortunately her jaw dropped
>when she saw the $2000 (US) price tag on the vanity.
There's a wood they buy in quantity at
the local cabinet shop which they call
canarywood, other posters here might
be able to tell you more about it, but
to me it's very close to the look and
properties of teak, and, I believe, less
expensive.
Bub 209 responds:
>There's a wood they buy in quantity at
>the local cabinet shop which they call
>canarywood, other posters here might
>be able to tell you more about it, but
>to me it's very close to the look and
>properties of teak, and, I believe, less
>expensive.
Don't know about the expense, but Centrolobium spp. looks a lot like teak, is
about as durable, and works much more easily...no inclusions, no need for
special gluing clean-ups.
Canarywood seems to be the preferred name, but one source lists 42 common names
for varied species. AKA arirba, porcupinewood, putumuju.
Charlie Self
"Bore, n.: A person who talks when you wish him to listen." Ambrose Bierce, The
Devil's Dictionary
Thanks Bub and Charlie, I'm taking a drive to a few local hardwood yards
this weekend to ask about the canarywood.
Charlie Self wrote:
> Bub 209 responds:
>
>
>>There's a wood they buy in quantity at
>>the local cabinet shop which they call
>>canarywood, other posters here might
>>be able to tell you more about it, but
>>to me it's very close to the look and
>>properties of teak, and, I believe, less
>>expensive.
>
>
> Don't know about the expense, but Centrolobium spp. looks a lot like teak, is
> about as durable, and works much more easily...no inclusions, no need for
> special gluing clean-ups.
>
> Canarywood seems to be the preferred name, but one source lists 42 common names
> for varied species. AKA arirba, porcupinewood, putumuju.
>
> Charlie Self
> "Bore, n.: A person who talks when you wish him to listen." Ambrose Bierce, The
> Devil's Dictionary
Thanks, any excuse to wander over to Lee Valley is a good one. ;-)
Lazarus Long wrote:
<Self snippage>
>
> I've used teak for a small project. In my case, a jewelery box.
>
> It's really tough on HSS blades, router bits, what have you. Go
> carbide. The knives on that DJ-20 are HSS, they're not reversable.
> Teak has a lot of silica in it, it's also oily. There's epoxy
> available for oily wood, a product from Industrial Formulators of
> Canada named G2. I think you can get if from Lee Valley.
>
Good idea about moving the fence, evens out the wear. Thanks
John Grossbohlin wrote:
> "Mark L." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Greetings,
>> I don't want to bore the Wreck with the details, but I'm into a major
>>remodel of my house. It will realistically take a couple of years,
>>mainly because I will do a lot of it myself (damn that budget!). It
>>will involve amongst others, a new kitchen and bathroom.
>
>
> I could have written this... while picking through 2X6 studs and 1/2" CDX
> Saturday I had to keep chanting the mantra "it's not furniture, it's not for
> furniture... it's not furniture, it's not for furniture..." ;-)
>
>
>>plans I should be able to do it. Of course, I follow with, "But I do
>>need one more tool in order for this to happen". The DJ-20 (too bad the
>>price just went up $50) would complete my major machine purchases, and
>>she gave me the go-ahead to get one. Hot Damn!!!!!
>
>
> Good choice. I really like mine. Re the knives, they are not reversible. I'd
> think you should be able to get through a vanity project and more without
> sharpening if you keep using a different part of the knives by moving the
> fence regularly.
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
>
Mark L. wrote:
> Phisherman wrote:
>
>> Teak is an oily wood, full of silicon. It will quickly dull
>> your bits, blades, and knives. Clean the glue surface areas
>> with acetone before applying woodworkers glue. Most teak,
>> with exception of Burma, is rather dark so a dark
>> woodworkers glue is a better choice. Find a local source
>> to save on shipping costs. Personally, I'd pick a lower
>> cost wood such as oak, maple or even cherry and save my
>> cutting edges and wallet.
>
> Most of my house already has oak, and I think it's time for a
> change. Maple and cherry are not really appropriate for the
> look, just my personal preference. I wish teak was a little
> easier on the wallet, but it's the route I'm taking anyway. At
> least I'm not too naive (hopefully) going into this.....
Having made that decision, you might find it helpful to do a
Google Groups search on "teak texas" in this newsgroup
<http://www.google.com/groups?as_q=teak%20texas&as_ugroup=rec.woodworking&as_scoring=d&hl=en>
I recall that there was someone in Texas with a substantial
supply that he was willing to ship around the USA.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
I just mailed him again. If I hear from him, I'll let you know.
jo4hn wrote:
> Mark L. wrote:
>
>> I did email him (don't remember his name off hand) with no reply.
>> Maybe if he reads this, he'll respond... In the meantime, it's back
>> to googling.
>
>
> I think you're talking about Jeremy: [email protected] . He hasn't
> been around lately that I know of. I emailed him a couple months ago
> about his teak. Didn't hear back. Hope he's OK.
> mahalo,
> jo4hn
>
Most of my house already has oak, and I think it's time for a change.
Maple and cherry are not really appropriate for the look, just my
personal preference. I wish teak was a little easier on the wallet, but
it's the route I'm taking anyway. At least I'm not too naive (hopefully)
going into this.....
Phisherman wrote:
> Teak is an oily wood, full of silicon. It will quickly dull your
> bits, blades, and knives. Clean the glue surface areas with acetone
> before applying woodworkers glue. Most teak, with exception of Burma,
> is rather dark so a dark woodworkers glue is a better choice. Find a
> local source to save on shipping costs. Personally, I'd pick a lower
> cost wood such as oak, maple or even cherry and save my cutting edges
> and wallet.
"Mark L." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings,
> I don't want to bore the Wreck with the details, but I'm into a major
> remodel of my house. It will realistically take a couple of years,
> mainly because I will do a lot of it myself (damn that budget!). It
> will involve amongst others, a new kitchen and bathroom.
I could have written this... while picking through 2X6 studs and 1/2" CDX
Saturday I had to keep chanting the mantra "it's not furniture, it's not for
furniture... it's not furniture, it's not for furniture..." ;-)
> plans I should be able to do it. Of course, I follow with, "But I do
> need one more tool in order for this to happen". The DJ-20 (too bad the
> price just went up $50) would complete my major machine purchases, and
> she gave me the go-ahead to get one. Hot Damn!!!!!
Good choice. I really like mine. Re the knives, they are not reversible. I'd
think you should be able to get through a vanity project and more without
sharpening if you keep using a different part of the knives by moving the
fence regularly.
John
I did email him (don't remember his name off hand) with no reply. Maybe
if he reads this, he'll respond... In the meantime, it's back to googling.
Morris Dovey wrote:
> Mark L. wrote:
>
>> Phisherman wrote:
>>
>>> Teak is an oily wood, full of silicon. It will quickly dull
>>> your bits, blades, and knives. Clean the glue surface areas
>>> with acetone before applying woodworkers glue. Most teak,
>>> with exception of Burma, is rather dark so a dark
>>> woodworkers glue is a better choice. Find a local source
>>> to save on shipping costs. Personally, I'd pick a lower cost wood
>>> such as oak, maple or even cherry and save my
>>> cutting edges and wallet.
>>
>>
>> Most of my house already has oak, and I think it's time for a
>> change. Maple and cherry are not really appropriate for the
>> look, just my personal preference. I wish teak was a little
>> easier on the wallet, but it's the route I'm taking anyway. At
>> least I'm not too naive (hopefully) going into this.....
>
>
> Having made that decision, you might find it helpful to do a Google
> Groups search on "teak texas" in this newsgroup
>
> <http://www.google.com/groups?as_q=teak%20texas&as_ugroup=rec.woodworking&as_scoring=d&hl=en>
>
>
> I recall that there was someone in Texas with a substantial supply that
> he was willing to ship around the USA.
>
Teak is gonna be right pricey but is found at any number
of sources.
You didn't mention what part of the world you are in ???
Teak plywood would be a MUCH better choice for a
bathroom vanity.
These folks carry most of the major flavors:
http://boulterplywood.com/
A MUCH cheaper and easier wood is Spanish Cedar which is
neither spanish or cedar but is a beautiful exotic that
is a member of the mahogany family and sells MUCH cheaper
than teak.
Check with these folks:
http://walllumber.com/exo.asp
Mark L. wrote:
> So all of this has led up to a few questions (of course). I'm in the
> midst of going through some of the 4,190 references to teak via Google.
> Most of the posts are about finishing, but first I seek advice on buying
> teak. There are many types of teak, and the cabs we like are Burmese
> teak. Do all types of teak have a similar look? Can anyone recommend a
> mail order source, or should I find a local hardwood lumber yard and
> pick it out myself? I already know it is an expensive wood.
On Sun, 15 Aug 2004 16:36:46 GMT, "Mark L." <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Greetings,
> I don't want to bore the Wreck with the details, but I'm into a major
>remodel of my house. It will realistically take a couple of years,
>mainly because I will do a lot of it myself (damn that budget!). It
>will involve amongst others, a new kitchen and bathroom.
>
> Although I would like to do the kitchen cabs myself, my time frame
>(and current skill levels) won't allow it. But the bathroom cabs are
>now on my to-do list. :-) I'm shooting for an asian influenced design,
>and my wood of choice is teak. While my wife and I were at a bathroom
>supply/design center yesterday we found the exact style we are after.
>Made from teak and the design we want. Unfortunately her jaw dropped
>when she saw the $2000 (US) price tag on the vanity. Where she is from,
>that is what a person earns in a year! (Don't ask, another long story).
>She told me to find another kind of cabinet that won't cost so much.
>Damn, there goes the bathroom I wanted. :-(
>
> Lo and behold, what was in the mail when we arrived home? The latest
>Wood magazine with a bathroom vanity on the front cover!!! She asks if
>I can make something like that myself. I tell her honestly that I
>haven't made any cabinets (yet), but by following/adapting the magazine
>plans I should be able to do it. Of course, I follow with, "But I do
>need one more tool in order for this to happen". The DJ-20 (too bad the
>price just went up $50) would complete my major machine purchases, and
>she gave me the go-ahead to get one. Hot Damn!!!!!
>
> So all of this has led up to a few questions (of course). I'm in the
>midst of going through some of the 4,190 references to teak via Google.
>Most of the posts are about finishing, but first I seek advice on buying
>teak. There are many types of teak, and the cabs we like are Burmese
>teak. Do all types of teak have a similar look? Can anyone recommend a
>mail order source, or should I find a local hardwood lumber yard and
>pick it out myself? I already know it is an expensive wood.
>
> When it comes to machining, I realize using carbide is advisable. Is
>teak tough on planer/jointer blades also? Are the DJ-20 blades
>reversible, or should I just order a spare set before I need them? It's
>worth the price, just to avoid having to stop for sharpening in the
>middle of something. As for the mortises, I'll probably get the conical
>stone for the chisels.
>
> Lastly (for now), what about glue? I know this has been hashed out
>before, is poly the way to go? The oil that gives teak it insect/water
>resistant also makes it difficult to glue. I'm still looking through
>Google about glue anyway...
>
> Thanks to all who find the time to help me out,
> Mark L.
I've used teak for a small project. In my case, a jewelery box.
It's really tough on HSS blades, router bits, what have you. Go
carbide. The knives on that DJ-20 are HSS, they're not reversable.
Teak has a lot of silica in it, it's also oily. There's epoxy
available for oily wood, a product from Industrial Formulators of
Canada named G2. I think you can get if from Lee Valley.
Wood shipped from N.Y. to So. Calif. coast was less than half the
local price with shipping cost included.
On Sun, 15 Aug 2004 23:46:35 GMT, "Mark L." <[email protected]>
wrote:
>How true it is. As much as I like to support the local guys (I figure
>the profits they make somehow will funnel into my little corner of the
>world), sometimes an online deal is hard to pass up. Until the shipping
>comes into play, and then it's pretty much a level playing ground for
>all parties concerned. Mark L.
>
>Anthony VanCampen wrote:
>> On Sun, 15 Aug 2004 16:36:46 +0000, Mark L. wrote:
>> <snip>
>>
>>
>> Best bet is to scope out the wood in the flesh at a local woodyard. If you
>> find what you like then check out other sources. Don't forget that your
>> local supplier has to sell his product to make a living, so compare prices
>> carefully. What you save in taxes and other fees may be eaten up by the
>> shipping cost from some out of town supplier.
>>
>> Tony
On Sun, 15 Aug 2004 16:36:46 +0000, Mark L. wrote:
<snip>
> Lo and behold, what was in the mail when we arrived home? The latest
> Wood magazine with a bathroom vanity on the front cover!!! She asks if
> I can make something like that myself. I tell her honestly that I
> haven't made any cabinets (yet), but by following/adapting the magazine
> plans I should be able to do it. Of course, I follow with, "But I do
> need one more tool in order for this to happen". The DJ-20 (too bad the
> price just went up $50) would complete my major machine purchases, and
> she gave me the go-ahead to get one. Hot Damn!!!!!
Cool!>
> So all of this has led up to a few questions (of course). I'm in the
> midst of going through some of the 4,190 references to teak via Google.
Try vivisimo.com the left hand edge of the screen will sort the various
responses into subcategories (very helpful).
> Most of the posts are about
finishing, but first I seek advice on buying
> teak. There are many types of teak, and the cabs we like are Burmese
> teak. Do all types of teak have a similar look? Can anyone recommend a
> mail order source, or should I find a local hardwood lumber yard and
> pick it out myself? I already know it is an expensive wood.
Best bet is to scope out the wood in the flesh at a local woodyard. If you
find what you like then check out other sources. Don't forget that your
local supplier has to sell his product to make a living, so compare prices
carefully. What you save in taxes and other fees may be eaten up by the
shipping cost from some out of town supplier.
Tony
Mark L. wrote:
> I did email him (don't remember his name off hand) with no reply. Maybe
> if he reads this, he'll respond... In the meantime, it's back to
> googling.
I think you're talking about Jeremy: [email protected] . He hasn't
been around lately that I know of. I emailed him a couple months ago
about his teak. Didn't hear back. Hope he's OK.
mahalo,
jo4hn
How true it is. As much as I like to support the local guys (I figure
the profits they make somehow will funnel into my little corner of the
world), sometimes an online deal is hard to pass up. Until the shipping
comes into play, and then it's pretty much a level playing ground for
all parties concerned. Mark L.
Anthony VanCampen wrote:
> On Sun, 15 Aug 2004 16:36:46 +0000, Mark L. wrote:
> <snip>
>
>
> Best bet is to scope out the wood in the flesh at a local woodyard. If you
> find what you like then check out other sources. Don't forget that your
> local supplier has to sell his product to make a living, so compare prices
> carefully. What you save in taxes and other fees may be eaten up by the
> shipping cost from some out of town supplier.
>
> Tony
On Sun, 15 Aug 2004 16:36:46 GMT, "Mark L." <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Greetings,
> I don't want to bore the Wreck with the details, but I'm into a major
>remodel of my house. It will realistically take a couple of years,
>mainly because I will do a lot of it myself (damn that budget!). It
>will involve amongst others, a new kitchen and bathroom.
>
> Although I would like to do the kitchen cabs myself, my time frame
>(and current skill levels) won't allow it. But the bathroom cabs are
>now on my to-do list. :-) I'm shooting for an asian influenced design,
>and my wood of choice is teak. While my wife and I were at a bathroom
>supply/design center yesterday we found the exact style we are after.
>Made from teak and the design we want. Unfortunately her jaw dropped
>when she saw the $2000 (US) price tag on the vanity. Where she is from,
>that is what a person earns in a year! (Don't ask, another long story).
>She told me to find another kind of cabinet that won't cost so much.
>Damn, there goes the bathroom I wanted. :-(
>
> Lo and behold, what was in the mail when we arrived home? The latest
>Wood magazine with a bathroom vanity on the front cover!!! She asks if
>I can make something like that myself. I tell her honestly that I
>haven't made any cabinets (yet), but by following/adapting the magazine
>plans I should be able to do it. Of course, I follow with, "But I do
>need one more tool in order for this to happen". The DJ-20 (too bad the
>price just went up $50) would complete my major machine purchases, and
>she gave me the go-ahead to get one. Hot Damn!!!!!
>
> So all of this has led up to a few questions (of course). I'm in the
>midst of going through some of the 4,190 references to teak via Google.
>Most of the posts are about finishing, but first I seek advice on buying
>teak. There are many types of teak, and the cabs we like are Burmese
>teak. Do all types of teak have a similar look? Can anyone recommend a
>mail order source, or should I find a local hardwood lumber yard and
>pick it out myself? I already know it is an expensive wood.
>
> When it comes to machining, I realize using carbide is advisable. Is
>teak tough on planer/jointer blades also? Are the DJ-20 blades
>reversible, or should I just order a spare set before I need them? It's
>worth the price, just to avoid having to stop for sharpening in the
>middle of something. As for the mortises, I'll probably get the conical
>stone for the chisels.
>
> Lastly (for now), what about glue? I know this has been hashed out
>before, is poly the way to go? The oil that gives teak it insect/water
>resistant also makes it difficult to glue. I'm still looking through
>Google about glue anyway...
>
> Thanks to all who find the time to help me out,
> Mark L.
>
Teak is an oily wood, full of silicon. It will quickly dull your
bits, blades, and knives. Clean the glue surface areas with acetone
before applying woodworkers glue. Most teak, with exception of Burma,
is rather dark so a dark woodworkers glue is a better choice. Find a
local source to save on shipping costs. Personally, I'd pick a lower
cost wood such as oak, maple or even cherry and save my cutting edges
and wallet.