Once again, I find myself turning to the professionals for answers.
I have recently been approached and asked if I would finish a door with two
sidelights. The builder ordered the door without finish for a house he is
building but has run out of time. He will supply all the materials I
request for the 7-foot door (including the sidelights) and wants me to do
the hands-on work. It is made of knotty poplar and anyway I look at it, the
job will probably take four coats (sealer, stain, two topcoats) to complete.
Since I do not have an HVLP system, I will using a brush (with ample amounts
of Floetrol--or similar product).
I recently read (within the past 2-3 months) an article in one of my monthly
magazines (it MAY have been Fine Woodworking, but I am unable to put my
hands on it) that described a process for finishing outdoor projects with
some kind of new epoxy lacquer. According to the article, this stuff is
the greatest stuff yet for anything exposed to the sun. . .like this door
will be.
Your help with (a) a fair price to charge for the work and (b) the site of
the article regarding the finishing process mentioned above is TRULY
appreciated.
Dick Pewthers
Lake Travis, TX
Dick Pewthers wrote:
(clip)
>
> I recently read (within the past 2-3 months) an article in one of my monthly
> magazines (it MAY have been Fine Woodworking, but I am unable to put my
> hands on it) that described a process for finishing outdoor projects with
> some kind of new epoxy lacquer. According to the article, this stuff is
> the greatest stuff yet for anything exposed to the sun. . .
(clip)
Dick, the article was titled "A Durable Outdoor Finish" and was in the
FWW October 2005 issue (#179). The finish consists of a thin,
penetrating 2-part epoxy sealer called "MultiWoodPrime" and made by
Smith & Company. This was followed by a spar varnish top coat.
Don't know about pricing. Good luck.
Bob
I don't have any experience with the epoxy sealer, it may very well
hold up to exterior exposure better than other applications. I'd like
to know more about this sealer.
I don't have much confidence in the spar varnish topcoat holding up,
long term, if exposed to direct sunlight. I've used tung oil and
Water-Lox (marine finishes) for the limited exteriors I've worked
with/on.
As per price, charge by the hour. If your experience is lacking in
this area, don't charge a normal hourly rate .... reduce your hourly
rate a bit.
I recently redid (strip and refinish) a 9 foot 36 inch door for a customer.
I did it in my shop and charged 750.00 I called around and found that to be
a fair price for Dallas. I use the best outdoor finish i could find at the
time. The customer like the job and had me do 2 other doors. I garantee my
work for at least as long as the manufacturer does there product. The 2
rules to follow in construction ( I can,t see it from my house and It's good
enough for the girls I go with) Seriously Get the best finish you can find
and do the best job you can. CALL LOCAL SHOPS FOR PRICING AND CHARGE WHAT IS
COMPARABLE! Don't undercut the people making a living at this. I am sure you
would not like them doing you job for cheap. Most important is to stand
behind your work a satisfy the customer.
Tom Peters
Quinlan TX
"Dick Pewthers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Once again, I find myself turning to the professionals for answers.
>
> I have recently been approached and asked if I would finish a door with
> two sidelights. The builder ordered the door without finish for a house
> he is building but has run out of time. He will supply all the materials
> I request for the 7-foot door (including the sidelights) and wants me to
> do the hands-on work. It is made of knotty poplar and anyway I look at
> it, the job will probably take four coats (sealer, stain, two topcoats) to
> complete. Since I do not have an HVLP system, I will using a brush (with
> ample amounts of Floetrol--or similar product).
>
> I recently read (within the past 2-3 months) an article in one of my
> monthly magazines (it MAY have been Fine Woodworking, but I am unable to
> put my hands on it) that described a process for finishing outdoor
> projects with some kind of new epoxy lacquer. According to the article,
> this stuff is the greatest stuff yet for anything exposed to the sun. .
> .like this door will be.
>
> Your help with (a) a fair price to charge for the work and (b) the site of
> the article regarding the finishing process mentioned above is TRULY
> appreciated.
>
> Dick Pewthers
> Lake Travis, TX
>
Don,t remember
"Ba r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 22 Jan 2006 18:18:35 -0600, "Tom P" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I use the best outdoor finish i could find at the
>>time.
>
> Which was what?
>
> Thanks,
> Barry
"Bob in NC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Dick Pewthers wrote:
>
> (clip)
>>
>> I recently read (within the past 2-3 months) an article in one of my
>> monthly
>> magazines (it MAY have been Fine Woodworking, but I am unable to put my
>> hands on it) that described a process for finishing outdoor projects with
>> some kind of new epoxy lacquer. According to the article, this stuff is
>> the greatest stuff yet for anything exposed to the sun. . .
> (clip)
>
> Dick, the article was titled "A Durable Outdoor Finish" and was in the
> FWW October 2005 issue (#179). The finish consists of a thin,
> penetrating 2-part epoxy sealer called "MultiWoodPrime" and made by
> Smith & Company. This was followed by a spar varnish top coat.
>
Epoxy is not UV durable. The spar varnish is to protect the the epoxy.
Once it breaks down, the epoxy will also.
Doesn't sound like a particularly clever system.
On Sun, 22 Jan 2006 18:18:35 -0600, "Tom P" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I use the best outdoor finish i could find at the
>time.
Which was what?
Thanks,
Barry