Hi all, pardon the beginner question here please.
I was planning to use my MLCS through-dovetail jig to attach the
top/sides/bottom of the stereo cabinet I'm building. Two questions come to
mind before I start routing.
1) The cabinet is going to be 21" deep. The jig is only 15". This means
I'll have to make 1 pass, slide the board over, make a second pass. Does
anyone have good tips on how to make sure I get things aligned correctly
when I slide the board over for the second pass?
2) I'm planning to insert the back into a rabbet in the top/sides/bottom. I
figured it would be better to cut the rabbet before the dovetails. Does
this make sense?
Thanks in advance,
Dan
On Thu, 4 Nov 2004 09:10:21 -0800, "Daniel Grieves"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>1) The cabinet is going to be 21" deep. The jig is only 15". This means
>I'll have to make 1 pass, slide the board over, make a second pass.
Just cut as many as you can, then slide it over. So long as you can
actually fit a wide board into the jig, most allow fairly easy
multi-pass work like this. Align off the previously cut dovetails,
centring them between the fingers.
It may be useful to clamp the boards together, or even to glue them
together (with an interleaving paper strip), so that you can move the
jig around without disturbing the alignment of the two boards.
>2) I'm planning to insert the back into a rabbet in the top/sides/bottom. I
>figured it would be better to cut the rabbet before the dovetails.
Rebate after the dovetails. You need to cut a stopped rebate, or else
it will run out into the surfce of the boards. This may be visible in
the last half-pins, or even the half-pins and the last tail. After
you've cut the tails you can see more easily where to stop it.
--
Smert' spamionam