I'm fully aware of the crapshoot involved when buying stuff at Harbor
Freight.
My theory for HF is the same as for Radio Shack.
75 percent of their stuff is pure, unadulterated crap.
20 percent is usable if you're not expecting the kind of quality you get
with... well, real quality.
And 5 percent is actually pretty good stuff.
So where do the bandsaw blades fall in those categories?
I'm thinking of picking up some of their -$10 ones.
They have $20+ ones, too, but if I'm going to spend that much, I'll go
to Woodcraft.
Anyone actually use their blades? Are they.....
Crap?
Ok for the money, but don't expect much?
Better than average, a good bargain?
Diamond in the rough?
Or the final choice...
Wait for my Iturra Design catalog because they have great blades under
10 bucks?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
-MIKE- wrote:
> I'm fully aware of the crapshoot involved when buying stuff at Harbor
> Freight.
> My theory for HF is the same as for Radio Shack.
> 75 percent of their stuff is pure, unadulterated crap.
> 20 percent is usable if you're not expecting the kind of quality you
> get with... well, real quality.
> And 5 percent is actually pretty good stuff.
>
> So where do the bandsaw blades fall in those categories?
> I'm thinking of picking up some of their -$10 ones.
> They have $20+ ones, too, but if I'm going to spend that much, I'll go
> to Woodcraft.
>
> Anyone actually use their blades? Are they.....
> Crap?
> Ok for the money, but don't expect much?
> Better than average, a good bargain?
> Diamond in the rough?
>
> Or the final choice...
> Wait for my Iturra Design catalog because they have great blades under
> 10 bucks?
The last time I posted, what was essentially the same question, it appears
no one in this group has tried the HF offering. So, as soon as I get my next
20% off coupon, I will buy one and be the sacrificial ram and bleat out the
results.
Baa to all
--
Frank Howell
mac davis wrote:
> On Sun, 29 Mar 2009 12:55:59 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> My personal rule of thumb for blades at HF:
> If it's carbide and on sale, buy it, if it's a bandsaw or jig saw
> blade, run the other way..
> I use their 10" carbide blades on the chop saw and like them, but the
> BS blades that I got there when I was really desperate were sharp for
> about 30 seconds and then wouldn't cut or track..
>
> As Leon said, BS blades are not expensive... I have mine made up at a
> local saw shop and pay $12 to $14 for 105" blades that work very
> well.. YMWV
>
>> I'm fully aware of the crapshoot involved when buying stuff at Harbor
>> Freight.
>> My theory for HF is the same as for Radio Shack.
>> 75 percent of their stuff is pure, unadulterated crap.
>> 20 percent is usable if you're not expecting the kind of quality you
>> get with... well, real quality.
>> And 5 percent is actually pretty good stuff.
>>
>> So where do the bandsaw blades fall in those categories?
>> I'm thinking of picking up some of their -$10 ones.
>> They have $20+ ones, too, but if I'm going to spend that much, I'll
>> go to Woodcraft.
>>
>> Anyone actually use their blades? Are they.....
>> Crap?
>> Ok for the money, but don't expect much?
>> Better than average, a good bargain?
>> Diamond in the rough?
>>
>> Or the final choice...
>> Wait for my Iturra Design catalog because they have great blades
>> under 10 bucks?
>
>
> mac
>
> Please remove splinters before emailing
Finally a post from someone who has tried the HF blades. Kudos.
--
Frank Howell
Frank, I was about to make a comment that not a single person had
tried one, just constant rants against HF. I'm in the same boat -
I'm not in the market for a blade (have a few) and I've not tried
HF. Buddy tried their circular blades, both 7 1/4 and 10 and
swears they are great. Probably not in the class with WWII.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
"Frank Howell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> -MIKE- wrote:
>> I'm fully aware of the crapshoot involved when buying stuff at
>> Harbor
>> Freight.
>> My theory for HF is the same as for Radio Shack.
>> 75 percent of their stuff is pure, unadulterated crap.
>> 20 percent is usable if you're not expecting the kind of
>> quality you
>> get with... well, real quality.
>> And 5 percent is actually pretty good stuff.
>>
>> So where do the bandsaw blades fall in those categories?
>> I'm thinking of picking up some of their -$10 ones.
>> They have $20+ ones, too, but if I'm going to spend that much,
>> I'll go
>> to Woodcraft.
>>
>> Anyone actually use their blades? Are they.....
>> Crap?
>> Ok for the money, but don't expect much?
>> Better than average, a good bargain?
>> Diamond in the rough?
>>
>> Or the final choice...
>> Wait for my Iturra Design catalog because they have great
>> blades under
>> 10 bucks?
>
> The last time I posted, what was essentially the same question,
> it appears no one in this group has tried the HF offering. So,
> as soon as I get my next 20% off coupon, I will buy one and be
> the sacrificial ram and bleat out the results.
>
> Baa to all
> --
> Frank Howell
>
On Mar 29, 1:55=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm fully aware of the crapshoot involved when buying stuff at Harbor
> Freight.
> My theory for HF is the same as for Radio Shack.
> 75 percent of their stuff is pure, unadulterated crap.
> 20 percent is usable if you're not expecting the kind of quality you get
> with... well, real quality.
> And 5 percent is actually pretty good stuff.
>
> So where do the bandsaw blades fall in those categories?
> I'm thinking of picking up some of their -$10 ones.
> They have $20+ ones, too, but if I'm going to spend that much, I'll go
> to Woodcraft.
>
> Anyone actually use their blades? =A0Are they.....
> Crap?
> Ok for the money, but don't expect much?
> Better than average, a good bargain?
> Diamond in the rough?
>
> Or the final choice...
> Wait for my Iturra Design catalog because they have great blades under
> 10 bucks?
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Wait. Or go to Highland Hardware. Why bother taking a chance. Bandsaw
blades are cheap enough even when they're excellent.
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> I've been using Olson blades, both metal cutting and for wood, and have
>> never had a complaint.
>> I have a 1/2" blade that I use for re-saw and I don't get any drift at
>> all. (Delta 14" bandsaw)
>>
>> Max
>
>
> Thanks, Max.
>
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
> "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> --Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
> --
> http://mikedrums.com
> [email protected]
> ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
I've had consistently better results than I should with Olson (hss) blades
on my '54 Delta 14" w/riser. I'd bet there are better blades... I'd bet
there are better woodworkers, too. On my little 9" benchtop (Sears
Companion), I use either Sears (far east blades in Sears packaging, I'm
sure) or Delta branded (same thing, I'd bet), with fine results.
Personally (and take it for what it's worth), I think taking your time is
the lesson to learn as for as bandsaws go, regardless of the blades you use.
Ed
On Sun, 29 Mar 2009 20:50:39 GMT, Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
>The Olson All Pro blades are also good and somewhat less expensive than
>the Timberwolf and Woodslicer.
>
>http://www.olsonsaw.com/
Olson All Pro definitely better than Timberwolf and cheaper too.
You might wanna check here for cheap Olson bandsaw blades:
http://www.coastaltool.com/a/accessories/saw/bandsaw_14.html
http://www.cherrytreetoys.com/Olson_C149.cfm?strSortBy=&Page=3
I bought my from Costal Tool (Disclimer, no relation with either one).
"DanG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Frank, I was about to make a comment that not a single person had tried
> one, just constant rants against HF. I'm in the same boat - I'm not in
> the market for a blade (have a few) and I've not tried HF. Buddy tried
> their circular blades, both 7 1/4 and 10 and swears they are great.
> Probably not in the class with WWII.
>
> --
> ______________________________
> Keep the whole world singing . . . .
> DanG (remove the sevens)
> [email protected]
>
I've got 10" blades from HF on both table and chop saws right now. They are
ok. Hell, for the $10-$20 apiece I paid, they are great. They are fine for
rough to "rustic" projects. When I start on some finer projects, I'll
probably get better blades.
Hmmm.... for that matter, my chop saw is a 25 year old Black and Decker.
*It* probably ought to get upgraded.
Ed
On Mon, 30 Mar 2009 13:44:56 -0400, "Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I've got 10" blades from HF on both table and chop saws right now. They are
>ok. Hell, for the $10-$20 apiece I paid, they are great. They are fine for
>rough to "rustic" projects. When I start on some finer projects, I'll
>probably get better blades.
>
>Hmmm.... for that matter, my chop saw is a 25 year old Black and Decker.
>*It* probably ought to get upgraded.
>
>Ed
Why pay $10-$20 for the craps when you can buy for the same for Oslson Pro?
I had tried Timberwolf including Viking from Lee Valley, I still think you
cannot go wrong with Olson Pro.
http://www.coastaltool.com/a/accessories/saw/bandsaw_14.html
http://www.cherrytreetoys.com/Olson_C149.cfm?strSortBy=&Page=3
"WD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 30 Mar 2009 13:44:56 -0400, "Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>I've got 10" blades from HF on both table and chop saws right now. They
>>are
>>ok. Hell, for the $10-$20 apiece I paid, they are great. They are fine
>>for
>>rough to "rustic" projects. When I start on some finer projects, I'll
>>probably get better blades.
>>
>>Hmmm.... for that matter, my chop saw is a 25 year old Black and Decker.
>>*It* probably ought to get upgraded.
>>
>>Ed
>
> Why pay $10-$20 for the craps when you can buy for the same for Oslson
> Pro?
> I had tried Timberwolf including Viking from Lee Valley, I still think you
> cannot go wrong with Olson Pro.
>
> http://www.coastaltool.com/a/accessories/saw/bandsaw_14.html
> http://www.cherrytreetoys.com/Olson_C149.cfm?strSortBy=&Page=3
Hmmm, things are getting a bit mixed up here. I was talking about blades on
my table and miter saw. On my Delta bandsaw, I use Olson (I think they are
the "regular", not Pro). They do everything I need.
I think this thread is pretty well done anyway....
Ed
On Mon, 30 Mar 2009 17:32:50 -0400, "Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hmmm, things are getting a bit mixed up here. I was talking about blades on
>my table and miter saw. On my Delta bandsaw, I use Olson (I think they are
>the "regular", not Pro). They do everything I need.
>
>I think this thread is pretty well done anyway....
Escuse me, my mistake. I didn't read carefully and jump the gun.
We all contribute our two cents and someone must have gain something
from it. :-)
>
>Ed
"WD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 30 Mar 2009 17:32:50 -0400, "Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>Hmmm, things are getting a bit mixed up here. I was talking about blades
>>on
>>my table and miter saw. On my Delta bandsaw, I use Olson (I think they
>>are
>>the "regular", not Pro). They do everything I need.
>>
>>I think this thread is pretty well done anyway....
>
> Escuse me, my mistake. I didn't read carefully and jump the gun.
> We all contribute our two cents and someone must have gain something
> from it. :-)
>
>>
>>Ed
(grin)... I really need to remember to put those in now and then. I could
never get used to the :-) things.
Ed
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>> I think this thread is pretty well done anyway....
>>
>> Ed
>
> Oh, is it? Because you say so, right? :-)
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
LOL!
It just seems to always boil down to the idea that for some people, HF is
junk... no redeeming value, they should be nuked. And when something I buy
there fails, I'm right there with 'em! (grin)
But, it's all expectations. If someone expects a $10 blade to perform like
a $100 blade, they are probably going to be disappointed. If someone
expects a $19.99 angle grinder to perform like (and as long as) a $150 angle
grinder, again... they are up for a disappointment. If they expect that
$10 blade to cut through a 2x4, they will probably be satisfied. And, the
expectations of a tradesman or high end hobbyist, are probably going to be
very different than those of someone who puts up a deck once in their life,
or has a couple fence posts they need to cutoff and never use that tool
again.
This exact thread comes up with incredible regularity and it's always
predictable who will respond and what they will say. I'm not saying we'll
never see it again. (grin)
Ed
On Sun, 29 Mar 2009 12:55:59 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm fully aware of the crapshoot involved when buying stuff at Harbor
>Freight.
>My theory for HF is the same as for Radio Shack.
>75 percent of their stuff is pure, unadulterated crap.
>20 percent is usable if you're not expecting the kind of quality you get
>with... well, real quality.
>And 5 percent is actually pretty good stuff.
>
>So where do the bandsaw blades fall in those categories?
>I'm thinking of picking up some of their -$10 ones.
>They have $20+ ones, too, but if I'm going to spend that much, I'll go
>to Woodcraft.
>
>Anyone actually use their blades? Are they.....
>Crap?
>Ok for the money, but don't expect much?
>Better than average, a good bargain?
>Diamond in the rough?
>
>Or the final choice...
>Wait for my Iturra Design catalog because they have great blades under
>10 bucks?
Why not buy one of each to compare? Personally, I'd rather not fool
around and buy the best blade I can get.
-MIKE- wrote:
> I'm fully aware of the crapshoot involved when buying stuff at Harbor
> Freight.
> My theory for HF is the same as for Radio Shack.
> 75 percent of their stuff is pure, unadulterated crap.
> 20 percent is usable if you're not expecting the kind of quality you get
> with... well, real quality.
> And 5 percent is actually pretty good stuff.
>
> So where do the bandsaw blades fall in those categories?
> I'm thinking of picking up some of their -$10 ones.
> They have $20+ ones, too, but if I'm going to spend that much, I'll go
> to Woodcraft.
>
> Anyone actually use their blades? Are they.....
> Crap?
> Ok for the money, but don't expect much?
> Better than average, a good bargain?
> Diamond in the rough?
>
> Or the final choice...
> Wait for my Iturra Design catalog because they have great blades under
> 10 bucks?
If it were me I'd go to Woodworker's Supply and order up a couple of
their Starrett/Bahco blades:
http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=899-537&search=Sawblades%20-%20Bandsaw&smode=&showsingle=
I don't know if some of their blades are Starrett and some are Bahco, or
if the blades are the product of a joint venture; the website isn't
clear about it. I ordered four different blades for my MiniMax and they
all came with Starrett tags on them. In any case, both brand names are
highly regarded and the blades I received are excellent quality and
reasonably priced.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 29 Mar 2009 20:01:58 -0500, Leon wrote:
>>
>>> And I second the recommendation - very good blades.
>>
>>
>> Oddly, I never could get a Timberwolf to do worth a darn on the Rikon, I
>> had a blade made for it locally and it worked just fine along with the
>> one that came with the saw. Again IIRC Laguna uses the same steel and
>> or coils that Timberwolf does and those blades work very well on my
>> Laguna.
>
> I'm using a 1/2" Timberwolf for resawing on my 14" Rikon - the one
> with13" resaw. Works like a champ. I did round the back of the blade,
> did you try that?
Yes, the biggest problem was keeping the blade in one spot relative to the
back thruss guide. the blade would move forward and backward about 1/8"
when turning and not cutting. Timberwolf and I had several conversations
over the matter.
>
> And surprisingly, the blade that came with the Rikon wasn't all that bad
> as you said. We did have one on an 18" Rikon at the store that gave some
> problems resawing maple burl into veneer. Switched for a Timberwolf and
> there was a considerable improvement.
>
> I've heard that the Highland Hardware resaw blade is even better, but I
> haven't tried it.
So far I am pretty impressed with what Laguna sells and they are not that
badly priced on the standard type blades. I'll probably stick with them.
>
> --
> Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
-MIKE- wrote:
> I'm fully aware of the crapshoot involved when buying stuff at Harbor
> Freight.
> My theory for HF is the same as for Radio Shack.
> 75 percent of their stuff is pure, unadulterated crap.
> 20 percent is usable if you're not expecting the kind of quality you
> get with... well, real quality.
> And 5 percent is actually pretty good stuff.
>
> So where do the bandsaw blades fall in those categories?
> I'm thinking of picking up some of their -$10 ones.
> They have $20+ ones, too, but if I'm going to spend that much, I'll go
> to Woodcraft.
>
> Anyone actually use their blades? Are they.....
> Crap?
> Ok for the money, but don't expect much?
> Better than average, a good bargain?
> Diamond in the rough?
>
> Or the final choice...
> Wait for my Iturra Design catalog because they have great blades under
> 10 bucks?
No answer re HF blades but how many blades do you want? All you really need
are a couple...a skinny one for doing curves, a wide one for resawing. The
two I use are...
1. 3/16" 4 tpi skiptooth
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=27290
2. 1/2" 3-4 tpi (variable) hook. You won't find a better one for resawing
without laying out very big bucks.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1293
I have a bunch of others in a cabinet...sizes from 1/8" to 3/4"; TPI from 14
to 3. I bought them when I first bought the bandsaw, never used most. Why?
For one thing, it is a PITA to change blades on a bandsaw; main reason is I
never needed them.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
-MIKE- wrote:
> I'm fully aware of the crapshoot involved when buying stuff at Harbor
> Freight.
> My theory for HF is the same as for Radio Shack.
> 75 percent of their stuff is pure, unadulterated crap.
> 20 percent is usable if you're not expecting the kind of quality you get
> with... well, real quality.
> And 5 percent is actually pretty good stuff.
>
> So where do the bandsaw blades fall in those categories?
> I'm thinking of picking up some of their -$10 ones.
> They have $20+ ones, too, but if I'm going to spend that much, I'll go
> to Woodcraft.
>
> Anyone actually use their blades? Are they.....
> Crap?
> Ok for the money, but don't expect much?
> Better than average, a good bargain?
> Diamond in the rough?
>
> Or the final choice...
> Wait for my Iturra Design catalog because they have great blades under
> 10 bucks?
>
>
The ratios on the HF stuff might be a bit severe but when it comes to the
bandsaw blades, pure "I don't think I want to use one of those, thank you."
My preference is Carter blades from Carter Tool Co. I have tried the
others, Timberwolf is good, as are most of the other name brands, and just
like them better.
As an aside, my general rule for buying stuff at HF is, the pnuematic
nailers and cordless drills are fine for the hobbest. For the rest, if I
see it advertised at another vendor (Grizzly, Garret Wade, etc) I will buy
it at HF and save a few dollars.
Deb
On Sun, 29 Mar 2009 20:01:58 -0500, Leon wrote:
>
>> And I second the recommendation - very good blades.
>
>
> Oddly, I never could get a Timberwolf to do worth a darn on the Rikon, I
> had a blade made for it locally and it worked just fine along with the
> one that came with the saw. Again IIRC Laguna uses the same steel and
> or coils that Timberwolf does and those blades work very well on my
> Laguna.
I'm using a 1/2" Timberwolf for resawing on my 14" Rikon - the one
with13" resaw. Works like a champ. I did round the back of the blade,
did you try that?
And surprisingly, the blade that came with the Rikon wasn't all that bad
as you said. We did have one on an 18" Rikon at the store that gave some
problems resawing maple burl into veneer. Switched for a Timberwolf and
there was a considerable improvement.
I've heard that the Highland Hardware resaw blade is even better, but I
haven't tried it.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> I should add that when I bought my metal cutting band saw (from Grizzly)
>> I bought 2 blades with it.
>> Both blades broke after short use. I still have , and use, the Olson
>> blades.
>>
>> Max
>
> Since this old Jet is a three-speed, that advice is welcomed.
For sure, I'd get a bi-metal blade or two to take advantage of the higher
speed.
"Frank Howell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> mac davis wrote:
>> On Sun, 29 Mar 2009 12:55:59 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> My personal rule of thumb for blades at HF:
>> If it's carbide and on sale, buy it, if it's a bandsaw or jig saw
>> blade, run the other way..
>> I use their 10" carbide blades on the chop saw and like them, but the
>> BS blades that I got there when I was really desperate were sharp for
>> about 30 seconds and then wouldn't cut or track..
>>
>> As Leon said, BS blades are not expensive... I have mine made up at a
>> local saw shop and pay $12 to $14 for 105" blades that work very
>> well.. YMWV
>>
>>> I'm fully aware of the crapshoot involved when buying stuff at Harbor
>>> Freight.
>>> My theory for HF is the same as for Radio Shack.
>>> 75 percent of their stuff is pure, unadulterated crap.
>>> 20 percent is usable if you're not expecting the kind of quality you
>>> get with... well, real quality.
>>> And 5 percent is actually pretty good stuff.
>>>
>>> So where do the bandsaw blades fall in those categories?
>>> I'm thinking of picking up some of their -$10 ones.
>>> They have $20+ ones, too, but if I'm going to spend that much, I'll
>>> go to Woodcraft.
>>>
>>> Anyone actually use their blades? Are they.....
>>> Crap?
>>> Ok for the money, but don't expect much?
>>> Better than average, a good bargain?
>>> Diamond in the rough?
>>>
>>> Or the final choice...
>>> Wait for my Iturra Design catalog because they have great blades
>>> under 10 bucks?
>>
>>
>> mac
>>
>> Please remove splinters before emailing
>
> Finally a post from someone who has tried the HF blades. Kudos.
I missed that part, did Mac actually mention that he bought the cheap $10
blades that the OP was asking about?
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> This exact thread comes up with incredible regularity and it's always
>> predictable who will respond and what they will say. I'm not saying
>> we'll never see it again. (grin)
>>
>> Ed
>
> I get it.
> There are similar threads over in the drumming newsgroup, so I totally
> understand.
I must be hallucinating. Did you just say countersteer?
On 2009-03-30, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> When cutting metal, too?
metal cutting feeds and speeds are more dependent on the material (alum vs
steel) than the application. Also, metal cutting typically uses a
wax type lubricant.
nb
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm fully aware of the crapshoot involved when buying stuff at Harbor
> Freight.
> My theory for HF is the same as for Radio Shack.
> 75 percent of their stuff is pure, unadulterated crap.
> 20 percent is usable if you're not expecting the kind of quality you get
> with... well, real quality.
> And 5 percent is actually pretty good stuff.
>
> So where do the bandsaw blades fall in those categories?
> I'm thinking of picking up some of their -$10 ones.
> They have $20+ ones, too, but if I'm going to spend that much, I'll go to
> Woodcraft.
>
> Anyone actually use their blades? Are they.....
> Crap?
> Ok for the money, but don't expect much?
> Better than average, a good bargain?
> Diamond in the rough?
>
> Or the final choice...
> Wait for my Iturra Design catalog because they have great blades under 10
> bucks?
What makes a bandsaw blade good, one better than another? Is it just
magazine reviews and their stamps of approval? Can a mortal man, average Joe
Woodworker, make that determination for himself?
$5 - $10 blades are the run of the mill carbon steel. If you're able to test
it, consistent, good metallurgy in the blade is best. For usability, are the
teeth sharp, and the set consistent? Are the teeth ground or are they
stamped? These show in the quality of cut.
$20 to $30 should buy a good quality bi-metal blade. These have high speed
steel teeth for sharpness, married to a carbon steel band for durability.
High speed steel retains its temper at higher temperatures. They last longer
than the cheaper carbon steel blades, by about the same ratio as the
difference in price.
Got $120 burning a hole in your pocket? Get a 3/4" blade with welded carbide
teeth for resaw.
How many TPI? Hook? skip tooth? regular?
There was a point when I was frenzied about making the decision. I have a
1/4" bi-metal 10-14 TPI for general use and joinery, and a 1/2" 3-4 TPI thin
kerf for resaw. There's a box full of other stuff I bought when I got the
saw, but I'm still using only those two blades. (Along with the original
Delta metal guides.) I wouldn't know about Highland's WoodSlicer. It's the
same spec as the KerfMaster I buy from Spectrum Supply for $20. I'm pleased
with the KerfMaster. If the WoodSlicer really cuts better, it would truly be
a phenomenal blade, perhaps even cheap at $30.
MikeWhy wrote:
> I wouldn't know about
> Highland's WoodSlicer. It's the same spec as the KerfMaster I buy
> from Spectrum Supply for $20. I'm pleased with the KerfMaster. If the
> WoodSlicer really cuts better, it would truly be a phenomenal blade,
> perhaps even cheap at $30.
I can't compare it to your Kerfmaster as I've never used the latter;
however, it is hands down better compared to the highly touted Timberwolf.
I bought one of those once, tried it once, put back the WoodSlicer and have
never used the Timberwolf again.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Sun, 29 Mar 2009 12:55:59 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
My personal rule of thumb for blades at HF:
If it's carbide and on sale, buy it, if it's a bandsaw or jig saw blade, run the
other way..
I use their 10" carbide blades on the chop saw and like them, but the BS blades
that I got there when I was really desperate were sharp for about 30 seconds and
then wouldn't cut or track..
As Leon said, BS blades are not expensive... I have mine made up at a local saw
shop and pay $12 to $14 for 105" blades that work very well.. YMWV
>I'm fully aware of the crapshoot involved when buying stuff at Harbor
>Freight.
>My theory for HF is the same as for Radio Shack.
>75 percent of their stuff is pure, unadulterated crap.
>20 percent is usable if you're not expecting the kind of quality you get
>with... well, real quality.
>And 5 percent is actually pretty good stuff.
>
>So where do the bandsaw blades fall in those categories?
>I'm thinking of picking up some of their -$10 ones.
>They have $20+ ones, too, but if I'm going to spend that much, I'll go
>to Woodcraft.
>
>Anyone actually use their blades? Are they.....
>Crap?
>Ok for the money, but don't expect much?
>Better than average, a good bargain?
>Diamond in the rough?
>
>Or the final choice...
>Wait for my Iturra Design catalog because they have great blades under
>10 bucks?
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm fully aware of the crapshoot involved when buying stuff at Harbor
> Freight.
Ah,, you're aware. But have you experienced it first hand?
In general, for my time, the cost of the disappointment has outweighed
the money saved. I have not tried their blades.
Of course, as always, the right choice just "depends".
Seriously, I hope you'll posts the results of your experiment.
Good luck!
> My theory for HF is the same as for Radio Shack.
> 75 percent of their stuff is pure, unadulterated crap.
> 20 percent is usable if you're not expecting the kind of quality you get
> with... well, real quality.
> And 5 percent is actually pretty good stuff.
>
> So where do the bandsaw blades fall in those categories?
> I'm thinking of picking up some of their -$10 ones.
> They have $20+ ones, too, but if I'm going to spend that much, I'll go to
> Woodcraft.
>
> Anyone actually use their blades? Are they.....
> Crap?
> Ok for the money, but don't expect much?
> Better than average, a good bargain?
> Diamond in the rough?
>
> Or the final choice...
> Wait for my Iturra Design catalog because they have great blades under 10
> bucks?
>
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
> "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> --Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
> --
> http://mikedrums.com
> [email protected]
> ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Leon wrote:
> IMHO BS blades are so inexpensive to start with, why pinch pennies here. I
> would certainly give 1 a try and compare it to a better quality blade.
That's certainly true, especially when you consider what we're asking
them to do.
Compare that to a a good circular blade and yeah, we're getting off easy.
> For general purpose cutting the $10 blades may be just what you are looking
> for but for the better cut you are probably going to buy a better blade.
> Keep in mind that Timberwolf makes good blades and are probably cheaper than
> Woodcraft.
>
Thanks for the endorsement of Timberwolf. I was wondering about them.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Charlie Self wrote:
>
> Wait. Or go to Highland Hardware. Why bother taking a chance. Bandsaw
> blades are cheap enough even when they're excellent.
I take the chance because of HF's excellent return policy and the
adventure involved with "you never know." :-)
Thanks for the Highland recommendation.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Bill wrote:
> "-MIKE-" wrote in message
>> I'm fully aware of the crapshoot involved when buying stuff at Harbor
>> Freight.
>
> Ah,, you're aware. But have you experienced it first hand?
Yes, but it's never ruined a project.
> In general, for my time, the cost of the disappointment has outweighed
> the money saved. I have not tried their blades.
>
My discernment get sharpened with every purchase. :-)
> Of course, as always, the right choice just "depends".
> Seriously, I hope you'll posts the results of your experiment.
> Good luck!
>
I will, but I'm afraid my opinion might suffer from lack of experience
with many different blades.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Steve Turner wrote:
> If it were me I'd go to Woodworker's Supply and order up a couple of
> their Starrett/Bahco blades:
>
> http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=899-537&search=Sawblades%20-%20Bandsaw&smode=&showsingle=
>
Thanks, Steve. The prices look reasonable.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
MikeWhy wrote:
> I have
> a 1/4" bi-metal 10-14 TPI for general use and joinery, and a 1/2" 3-4
> TPI thin kerf for resaw. There's a box full of other stuff I bought when
> I got the saw, but I'm still using only those two blades.
I'm getting that response a lot.
I get the feeling, I'll be repeating it a year from now. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Nova wrote:
>> Thanks for the endorsement of Timberwolf. I was wondering about them.
>>
>>
>
> The Olson All Pro blades are also good and somewhat less expensive than
> the Timberwolf and Woodslicer.
>
> http://www.olsonsaw.com/
>
I saw those on the Woodcraft site.
So are the regular Olson's any good, or just the same as the cheap generics?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
> RE: Harbor Freight
>
> If you value your time, you probably don't spend it shopping at Harbor
> Freight except possibly for disposables.
>
> Lew
>
I value my time AND money, but thanks for the condescension. :-p
If I have more disposable time than money, HF pays off occasionally.
Like you said about disposables, I'm usually there getting things on
sale like rubber gloves, magnets, parts bins, and those nylon-insert
nuts I seem to use a million of. So why not check out the disposable
tools, too.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
> I've been using Olson blades, both metal cutting and for wood, and have
> never had a complaint.
> I have a 1/2" blade that I use for re-saw and I don't get any drift at
> all. (Delta 14" bandsaw)
>
> Max
Thanks, Max.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
> I should add that when I bought my metal cutting band saw (from Grizzly)
> I bought 2 blades with it.
> Both blades broke after short use. I still have , and use, the Olson
> blades.
>
> Max
Since this old Jet is a three-speed, that advice is welcomed.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
> Personally (and take it for what it's worth), I think taking your time
> is the lesson to learn as for as bandsaws go, regardless of the blades
> you use.
>
> Ed
>
Anyone for whom I've done work will tell you I lean more towards quality
than quantity. :-)
I'm just looking forward to the improved performance over my little, el
cheapo 9-inch (insert euphemism, here).
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
WD wrote:
> Olson All Pro definitely better than Timberwolf and cheaper too.
> You might wanna check here for cheap Olson bandsaw blades:
>
> http://www.coastaltool.com/a/accessories/saw/bandsaw_14.html
> http://www.cherrytreetoys.com/Olson_C149.cfm?strSortBy=&Page=3
>
WHOA! Thanks for that link.
Those blades are 20 bucks at Woodcraft.
Your link has them at HF prices. Nice.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
MikeWhy wrote:
> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>> I should add that when I bought my metal cutting band saw (from
>>> Grizzly) I bought 2 blades with it.
>>> Both blades broke after short use. I still have , and use, the Olson
>>> blades.
>>>
>>> Max
>>
>> Since this old Jet is a three-speed, that advice is welcomed.
>
> For sure, I'd get a bi-metal blade or two to take advantage of the
> higher speed.
>
Help me understand this.
Because the blade has HSS teeth, you don't have to worry about heat
fatigue when running fast?
When cutting metal, too?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>
> I think this thread is pretty well done anyway....
>
> Ed
Oh, is it? Because you say so, right? :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
> This exact thread comes up with incredible regularity and it's always
> predictable who will respond and what they will say. I'm not saying
> we'll never see it again. (grin)
>
> Ed
I get it.
There are similar threads over in the drumming newsgroup, so I totally
understand.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
MikeWhy wrote:
>> I get it.
>> There are similar threads over in the drumming newsgroup, so I totally
>> understand.
>
> I must be hallucinating. Did you just say countersteer?
>
Counter what, now?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
mac davis wrote:
>
> ...but the BS blades
> that I got there when I was really desperate were sharp for about 30 seconds and
> then wouldn't cut or track..
>
Thank you.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
notbob wrote:
> Very interesting and informative thread. For you hardcore woodworkers, a
> band saw welder might be an valid option. Buy saw stock, weld your own to
> need.
...learned how to do that in "college*."
We had to take a bent or broken blade, cut new ends, file, weld, file,
install, run and cut with the side guides tight to make sure there was
no speed bump at the joint. There was also some sort of tension tester
that pulled on the blade at the joint.
[* it was more like 13th and 14th grade. :-) ]
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Leon wrote:
> "Frank Howell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> mac davis wrote:
>>> My personal rule of thumb for blades at HF:
>>> .......but the
>>> BS blades that I got there when I was really desperate were sharp for
>>> about 30 seconds and then wouldn't cut or track..
>>>
>>> mac
>>>
>> Finally a post from someone who has tried the HF blades. Kudos.
>
>
> I missed that part, did Mac actually mention that he bought the cheap $10
> blades that the OP was asking about?
>
You quoted it.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Tue, 31 Mar 2009 15:13:31 -0500, "Leon" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>> Finally a post from someone who has tried the HF blades. Kudos.
>
>
>I missed that part, did Mac actually mention that he bought the cheap $10
>blades that the OP was asking about?
>
It was from total desperation, Leon...
Broke my last blade, thinking that there were more in the cabinet, of course,
and the saw shop was closed..
As I remember, the blades at least LOOKED like they were made of steel..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Tue, 31 Mar 2009 17:31:19 GMT, notbob <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 2009-03-31, mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> My personal rule of thumb for blades at HF:
>> If it's carbide and on sale, buy it, if it's a bandsaw or jig saw blade, run the
>> other way..
>> I use their 10" carbide blades on the chop saw and like them, but the BS blades
>> that I got there when I was really desperate were sharp for about 30 seconds and
>> then wouldn't cut or track..
>>
>> As Leon said, BS blades are not expensive... I have mine made up at a local saw
>> shop and pay $12 to $14 for 105" blades that work very well.. YMWV
>
>Very interesting and informative thread. For you hardcore woodworkers, a
>band saw welder might be an valid option. Buy saw stock, weld your own to
>need. In metal work, a welder is a necessity. Here's a couple options.
>
>http://toolmonger.com/2007/02/15/reader-finds-bandsaw-blade-welders/
>
>nb
I looked into that a few years ago, but how much would it actually save per
blade, and how much would the equipment cost?
Then, there's the learning curve.. Plus the question of where do I use it?
I wouldn't want something like that IN the shop.. I even have my grinders
outside..
Bottom line for me is that for as little money as good blades cost, I'd prefer
to spend my time turning wood and let the saw shop make a few bucks a blade..
Sort of like some of the turning tools that I've chosen to buy instead of make..
I'm not willing to learn blacksmithing and such to avoid buying a $100 tool..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> I've been using Olson blades, both metal cutting and for wood, and have
>> never had a complaint.
>> I have a 1/2" blade that I use for re-saw and I don't get any drift at
>> all. (Delta 14" bandsaw)
>>
>> Max
>
>
> Thanks, Max.
>
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
> "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> --Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
> --
> http://mikedrums.com
> [email protected]
> ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
I should add that when I bought my metal cutting band saw (from Grizzly) I
bought 2 blades with it.
Both blades broke after short use. I still have , and use, the Olson
blades.
Max
"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 29 Mar 2009 13:50:59 -0500, Leon wrote:
>
>> Keep in mind that Timberwolf makes good blades and are probably
>> cheaper than Woodcraft.
>
> Doesn't your Woodcraft sell Timberwolf?
I don't recall, IIRC the last time I looked they were a little more
expensive than buying dirrect. They don't have 150" blades so I don't keep
up with them. I am still working on the several that came with my saw.
>
> And I second the recommendation - very good blades.
Oddly, I never could get a Timberwolf to do worth a darn on the Rikon, I had
a blade made for it locally and it worked just fine along with the one that
came with the saw. Again IIRC Laguna uses the same steel and or coils that
Timberwolf does and those blades work very well on my Laguna.
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm fully aware of the crapshoot involved when buying stuff at Harbor
> Freight.
> My theory for HF is the same as for Radio Shack.
> 75 percent of their stuff is pure, unadulterated crap.
> 20 percent is usable if you're not expecting the kind of quality you get
> with... well, real quality.
> And 5 percent is actually pretty good stuff.
>
> So where do the bandsaw blades fall in those categories?
> I'm thinking of picking up some of their -$10 ones.
> They have $20+ ones, too, but if I'm going to spend that much, I'll go to
> Woodcraft.
>
> Anyone actually use their blades? Are they.....
> Crap?
> Ok for the money, but don't expect much?
> Better than average, a good bargain?
> Diamond in the rough?
>
> Or the final choice...
> Wait for my Iturra Design catalog because they have great blades under 10
> bucks?
IMHO BS blades are so inexpensive to start with, why pinch pennies here. I
would certainly give 1 a try and compare it to a better quality blade. Then
there is my 150" x 1-1/4" Resaw King that costs me $1.50 per inch but it
does leave a very smooth surface when resawing and it cuts through hard
maple like butter.
For general purpose cutting the $10 blades may be just what you are looking
for but for the better cut you are probably going to buy a better blade.
Keep in mind that Timberwolf makes good blades and are probably cheaper than
Woodcraft.
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>
> You quoted it.
LOL, That I did, didn't I . SNAKE!!
On 2009-03-31, mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
> My personal rule of thumb for blades at HF:
> If it's carbide and on sale, buy it, if it's a bandsaw or jig saw blade, run the
> other way..
> I use their 10" carbide blades on the chop saw and like them, but the BS blades
> that I got there when I was really desperate were sharp for about 30 seconds and
> then wouldn't cut or track..
>
> As Leon said, BS blades are not expensive... I have mine made up at a local saw
> shop and pay $12 to $14 for 105" blades that work very well.. YMWV
Very interesting and informative thread. For you hardcore woodworkers, a
band saw welder might be an valid option. Buy saw stock, weld your own to
need. In metal work, a welder is a necessity. Here's a couple options.
http://toolmonger.com/2007/02/15/reader-finds-bandsaw-blade-welders/
nb
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Nova wrote:
>>> Thanks for the endorsement of Timberwolf. I was wondering about them.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> The Olson All Pro blades are also good and somewhat less expensive than
>> the Timberwolf and Woodslicer.
>>
>> http://www.olsonsaw.com/
>>
>
> I saw those on the Woodcraft site.
> So are the regular Olson's any good, or just the same as the cheap
> generics?
>
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
> "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> --Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
> --
> http://mikedrums.com
> [email protected]
> ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
I've been using Olson blades, both metal cutting and for wood, and have
never had a complaint.
I have a 1/2" blade that I use for re-saw and I don't get any drift at all.
(Delta 14" bandsaw)
Max
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> MikeWhy wrote:
>> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> I should add that when I bought my metal cutting band saw (from
>>>> Grizzly) I bought 2 blades with it.
>>>> Both blades broke after short use. I still have , and use, the Olson
>>>> blades.
>>>>
>>>> Max
>>>
>>> Since this old Jet is a three-speed, that advice is welcomed.
>>
>> For sure, I'd get a bi-metal blade or two to take advantage of the higher
>> speed.
>>
>
> Help me understand this.
> Because the blade has HSS teeth, you don't have to worry about heat
> fatigue when running fast?
> When cutting metal, too?
High carbon steel loses its temper when heated to relatively low
temperatures. Has more to do with hardness and edge retention more so than
fatigue strength. HSS is much more tolerant of high heat. Since it can
tolerate high heat better, you can run the saw at higher speeds, getting
faster and smoother cuts (assuming it has enough power).
-MIKE- wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>
>> IMHO BS blades are so inexpensive to start with, why pinch pennies
>> here. I would certainly give 1 a try and compare it to a better
>> quality blade.
>
>
> That's certainly true, especially when you consider what we're asking
> them to do.
> Compare that to a a good circular blade and yeah, we're getting off easy.
>
>
>> For general purpose cutting the $10 blades may be just what you are
>> looking for but for the better cut you are probably going to buy a
>> better blade.
>> Keep in mind that Timberwolf makes good blades and are probably
>> cheaper than Woodcraft.
>
>
> Thanks for the endorsement of Timberwolf. I was wondering about them.
>
>
The Olson All Pro blades are also good and somewhat less expensive than
the Timberwolf and Woodslicer.
http://www.olsonsaw.com/
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]