BM

Boogey Man

09/10/2003 3:52 PM

Need Help With This Cut - Boxcar-Top-2w.jpg (0/1)

I know this is a very dangerous cut and have had some kickbacks, damn
they hurt my hands.

I am looking for a solution for making this cut with much less danger.
I haven't been able to come up with anything that will work.

I want to be able to push it through while keeping my hands relatively
safe from the board, should a kickback occur.

I'll build any jig that works!

Thanks for any help or ideas.

--
http//:www.sugarbearswoodworks.com


This topic has 4 replies

BM

Boogey Man

in reply to Boogey Man on 09/10/2003 3:52 PM

09/10/2003 3:57 PM

In article <091020031552138067%[email protected]>, Boogey Man
<[email protected]> wrote:

Maybe this pic will work.

> I know this is a very dangerous cut and have had some kickbacks, damn
> they hurt my hands.
>
> I am looking for a solution for making this cut with much less danger.
> I haven't been able to come up with anything that will work.
>
> I want to be able to push it through while keeping my hands relatively
> safe from the board, should a kickback occur.
>
> I'll build any jig that works!
>
> Thanks for any help or ideas.

sD

[email protected] (Doug Miller)

in reply to Boogey Man on 09/10/2003 3:52 PM

09/10/2003 10:53 PM

In article <091020031557429703%[email protected]>, Boogey Man <[email protected]> wrote:
>In article <091020031552138067%[email protected]>, Boogey Man
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Maybe this pic will work.
>
You still haven't figured it out. rec.woodworking is not a binary group. You
can't post pictures here.

Try posting the picture to alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

BC

"Bruce C."

in reply to Boogey Man on 09/10/2003 3:52 PM

11/10/2003 8:31 AM

Saw your pic on ABPW.

I had to make a similar cut many years ago - my solution was to use the
radial arm saw setup in a rip configuration with the blade "way high". I
used a test board to sneak up on my cut depth and passed the board through
using plenty of feather boards for tension and a long push stick. Nibbled it
away one kerf at a time. It was slow but safe and accurate. The first round
of passes removed most of the waste wood. The finish pass was more fun - I
tilted the blade so that it was perpendicular to the tangent of the curve.
Cleanup was easy with a light sanding. I was cutting hard maple to make an
airfoil steam bending jig for some balsa airplanes.

If you don't have access to a radial arm saw, maybe you could jig up your
router in a similar manner.

Good luck!

Bruce

"Boogey Man" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:091020031552138067%[email protected]...
> I know this is a very dangerous cut and have had some kickbacks, damn
> they hurt my hands.
>
> I am looking for a solution for making this cut with much less danger.
> I haven't been able to come up with anything that will work.
>
> I want to be able to push it through while keeping my hands relatively
> safe from the board, should a kickback occur.
>
> I'll build any jig that works!
>
> Thanks for any help or ideas.
>
> --
> http//:www.sugarbearswoodworks.com

NU

"Norm Underwood"

in reply to Boogey Man on 09/10/2003 3:52 PM

09/10/2003 8:55 PM


"Boogey Man" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:091020031552138067%[email protected]...
> I know this is a very dangerous cut and have had some kickbacks, damn
> they hurt my hands.
>
> I am looking for a solution for making this cut with much less danger.
> I haven't been able to come up with anything that will work.
>
> I want to be able to push it through while keeping my hands relatively
> safe from the board, should a kickback occur.
>
> I'll build any jig that works!
>
> Thanks for any help or ideas.
>
> --
> http//:www.sugarbearswoodworks.com

1) you can't post binaries (pictures) here. put them on your webpage
and post a link

2) your web page should be http:// not //: so it looks like
http://www.sugarbearswoodworks.com


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