I tried epoxy inlay and the results were not bad (I used the syringe
5min stuff) . However, when I went to scrape off the epoxy after
letting it sit for about 10min and others at 40min, it came off and left
some voids in the inlay. (I found this was less of a prob if I let it
sit 10min vs. 40).
Is there a way to create the inlay so a smooth inlay results? and any
tips for the overall process?
thanks.
On Sun, 19 Oct 2003 01:01:47 GMT, ng <[email protected]> wrote:
>Is there a way to create the inlay so a smooth inlay results?
Use better epoxy. Start with a quality product, that has few
additives in it. Don't use a thick epoxy (i.e. tube) and try to thin
it, start with a runny liquid one and only thicken it when needed. I
use West System, but there are others.
Use fresh epoxy. The stuff has a shelf life.
Don't over colour it. Only takes a tiny amount of colour, and if your
mix is 30% acrylic paint, that's how it'll handle afterwards,
Don't use 5 minute epoxy. It's always a compromise to get these
accelerated cures, and you don't usually need them. If you do need a
faster cure, mix it hot.
Cured epoxy alone is brittle, too brittle to scrape smooth. You'll
probably want to add a filler in there, just to make it easier to
work. Any of the lightweight fillers will do (West System sell a huge
range), but avoid silica as that's awfully hard to work. I like
microballoons, either phenolic (brown) for colours or silica for pale.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
If you are doing a large amount of this (a whole stairs woudl fit in
this category), then the 5 min stuff in tubes gets very expensive and
is not the best product for the task.
Get larger quantities of epoxy used for boatbuilding and other
projects from West, System 3 or Glen-L (othre work too, but I have not
used them).
Preheat your work to about 5 degrees above ambient temp. Halogen work
lights work will. The reason is that the epoxy warms up as it cures
and the wood will out-gas as the air in the wood strucutre heats up.
This will cause bubbles, especially with porous wood like red oak.
Mix up small batches of the the epoxy with fillers (e.g. Colloidal
Silica, and Either High Density Silica or microfibers) to make a thick
paste of about peanut butter consistency. Add your colorant (West has
a very nice white). Transtint dyes and UTCs (Universal Tinting Colors)
work well in my experience. I still want to try Mixols. If you are
using the epoxy pumps (recommended) 1-2 pump batches are the right
size. The fillers are available from the same stores that sell the
epoxy. (FYI - Rockler has West System, Woodcraft has System 3)
Mask off the around the grooves / pattern with Either Blue masking
tape or better yet the Scotch 233+ Greeen that you gcan get at an
autobody supply shop.
Force the glop into the wood grooves leaving it over-filled. Some of
the epoxy will wick in to the wood fibers causing it to sink slightly.
When it is nearly hard (after 8-12 houts scrape roughly flush. Mix up
a new batch and apply to the holes, and divots. Wait again and scrape
flush. Now scrape and sand the whole thing.
For a large area view of this being done on the deck of my boat, see:
http://www.bronkalla.com/decking_fiberglass.htm
Mark Bronkalla
www.bronkalla.com - 50 mph furniture
www.wiscwoodworkersguild.org - President