I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
and length. Ugh. I'll use a clamping guide and a circular saw to cut
the width, but cutting the long side is another story. He doesn't want
me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
I plan on using rollers for infeed and the outfeed table for the
outfeed side. With maybe a roller beyond that. Any helpful
suggestions beyond, "get a new friend"?
--
Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.
"Vince Heuring" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:160120051738374371%[email protected]...
>
> I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
> doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
> and length. Ugh.
A couple of things to remember about cutting doors.
If these doors are pre-drilled for a lockset, do not trim the latch side of
the door. The backset is usually 2 3/8 (sometimes 2 3/4 for comercial) but
there is no such beast as a 2 1/8 latch.
Be aware of the bevel and cut that on the door if necessary. If the door is
predrilled and the edge of the door is square, you can still cut a bevel as
the backset is measured from the high side of the door.
If the door is prehung and you cut down the width 1/2" off the hinge side,
be sure to mark the piece you are going to cut off so you can transfer the
hinge mortise position to the newly trimmed section.
Hinge side of the door is square, latch side has a bevel.
As a locksmith I have seen some real cock-ups when people have trimmed
doors.
--
Roger Shoaf
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.
Unless the door does not have rails, like solid or skin doors, 1/4"
should be taken off each long side. If you take 1/2" off one side it
will be very noticeable.
Make a straight edge for the length out of a thin panel ( masonite or
1/4" plywood) fasten a straight edge to it.Leave the masonite a little
wide at first. Saw thru the masonite keeping the saw against fence. Now
the masonite edge is the cut line. Do not have to cut wide, saw to
dimensions needed. Then either take a swipe with a plane or hand sand
the saw marks off. If you use a decent combination blade ,sanding will
take one minute or less.
No one in their right mind would saw the door on a table saw.You can be
hurt , think about it, old door probably with paint. Unwieldy to
handle,at least 1 3/8" thick. If the blade binds , your in trouble.
If your friend does not want the door cut this way, give him a Delta,
Jet or Grizzly catalouge, let him buy his own tools.
In article <160120051738374371%[email protected]>, Vince
Heuring <[email protected]> wrote:
> He doesn't want
> me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
> hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
> rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
Tell him to do it himself.
--
"The thing about saying the wrong words is that A, I don't notice it, and B,
sometimes orange water gibbon bucket and plastic." -- Mr. Burrows
In article <160120051738374371%[email protected]>, Vince
Heuring <[email protected]> wrote:
Once again thanks to the wreckers who replied to my question. Some
comments on your replies:
0. He and his wife are not just good friend, they're very good friends.
1. He tells me they are new solid pine doors. He bought them not
knowing that his jambs were undersized.
2. It was just a smidge irritating for him to specify how he wanted
them cut, but OTOH they *are* his doors. A quick price check found
interior solid wood doors running from $200 up. I figure if the job
goes badly it was his pick of methods so he takes the blame. (See #4
below.)
3. He will be "assisting" me, probably at the outfeed end.
4. I'll be telling him in earshot of SWMBO that if the job gets botched
and the doors ruined it's his dime, not mine.
5. I agree with one of the OPs that the biggest concern is feeding the
door straight at the beginning and end of the cut.
6. I don't know why he's against using an electric plane. I bought mine
(Bosch) for exactly that purpose. I don't have a hand plane yet, being
a Normite that's trying to pick up some Neander skills.
> I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
> doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
> and length. Ugh. I'll use a clamping guide and a circular saw to cut
> the width, but cutting the long side is another story. He doesn't want
> me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
> hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
> rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
>
> I plan on using rollers for infeed and the outfeed table for the
> outfeed side. With maybe a roller beyond that. Any helpful
> suggestions beyond, "get a new friend"?
--
Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.
In article <160120051738374371%[email protected]>, Vince
Heuring <[email protected]> wrote:
> I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
> doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
> and length. Ugh. I'll use a clamping guide and a circular saw to cut
> the width, but cutting the long side is another story. He doesn't want
> me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
> hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
> rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
>
> I plan on using rollers for infeed and the outfeed table for the
> outfeed side. With maybe a roller beyond that. Any helpful
> suggestions beyond, "get a new friend"?
Bottom line: It went fine. I crosscut the bottoms using the old "slab
of foam insulation on the floor" technique. For the rips I used a
roller stand on the infeed and my router table as an outfeed table. I
built the router table at just the right height to serve as an outfeed
table. I fed the pine doors standing in front of and to the right of
the fence, with a constant force in toward the fence. My friend guided
them at the outfeed end.
Before we cut the doors we practiced with an old hollow-core door that
I had around.
"If you don't practice on scrap, you're practicing on your project," as
they say.
Thanks to all for the various kinds of advice.
--
Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.
Sounds as if anyone comes up with any alternative ideas, you need to run
them past your "friend", at which point I'm betting he nixes them. I
think your best course of action is to get a new friend. If you don't
cut them to his satisfaction is he planning on billing you for replacements?
David
Vince Heuring wrote:
> I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
> doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
> and length. Ugh. I'll use a clamping guide and a circular saw to cut
> the width, but cutting the long side is another story. He doesn't want
> me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
> hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
> rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
>
> I plan on using rollers for infeed and the outfeed table for the
> outfeed side. With maybe a roller beyond that. Any helpful
> suggestions beyond, "get a new friend"?
>
"Vince Heuring" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:160120051738374371%[email protected]...
>
> I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
> doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
> and length. Ugh. I'll use a clamping guide and a circular saw to cut
> the width, but cutting the long side is another story. He doesn't want
> me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
> hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
> rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
>
> I plan on using rollers for infeed and the outfeed table for the
> outfeed side. With maybe a roller beyond that. Any helpful
> suggestions beyond, "get a new friend"?
>
> --
> Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.
Vince,
Make a cutting jig for the length cut. Use a piece of 1/2" X 4" X 80"
plywood glued onto a 1/4"X12"X80" piece of plywood. The 1/4 piece should
be wide enough so that your first cut with the saw foot against the 1/2 ply,
you'll cut off some of the 1/4 inch ply.
When you cut the door, mark your door for the cut and then clamp your jig on
the door so the edge of the 1/4 inch will be on your marks. Your blade will
cut exactly along the 1/4 ply and make a perfectly straight cut.
Much easier than the table saw! :-)
Good luck.
Bryan
Roy Smith wrote:
> I'm confused. A friend imposes on you for a favor (OK, that's what
> friends are for), and then he insists on dictating which tools you use?
> Perhaps he has an opinion on how you should be dressed when performing
> this favor, or what brand of beer you should serve him while doing it?
Yeah, that's what I'm not getting too. I'd cut it down to within 1/4" to
1/8" or so of the line with a circular saw, then plane it to the line. If
the friend wasn't happy with that idea, I'd tell him to cut down his own
damn doors.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
Vince Heuring wrote:
> I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
> doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
> and length. Ugh. I'll use a clamping guide and a circular saw to cut
> the width, but cutting the long side is another story. He doesn't want
> me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
> hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
> rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
>
> I plan on using rollers for infeed and the outfeed table for the
> outfeed side. With maybe a roller beyond that. Any helpful
> suggestions beyond, "get a new friend"?
>
> --
> Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.
You could always set the door on a set of saw horses, draw a line 1/2" from
the edge along the 80" length and hand you buddy a Disston rip saw.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Vince Heuring wrote:
>
> I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
> doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
> and length. Ugh. I'll use a clamping guide and a circular saw to cut
> the width, but cutting the long side is another story. He doesn't want
> me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
> hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
> rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
>
> I plan on using rollers for infeed and the outfeed table for the
> outfeed side. With maybe a roller beyond that. Any helpful
> suggestions beyond, "get a new friend"?
>
There's an article in a relatively recent Fine Homebuilding on fitting
and hanging doors that has some real useful tips. I'd suggest getting
it and reading it and showing it to your buddy.
As far as I'm concerned, if somebody wants me to do something, he can
either accept my techniques and skills as I see fit or they can sponge
off another "friend"... :)
"Tim Douglass" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 11:44:51 -0700, Vince Heuring
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >6. I don't know why he's against using an electric plane. I bought mine
> >(Bosch) for exactly that purpose. I don't have a hand plane yet, being
> >a Normite that's trying to pick up some Neander skills.
>
> My personal experience with an electric plan is that they are really
> good for making wavy surfaces from flat surfaces. I would use one to
> put a bevel on the strike edge, but not to remove 1/2" - it is just
> too easy to bugger it up and too hard to get it right compared to the
> TS or circ. saw.
>
Mine has treated me well when used for this sort of thing. I wouldn't use
it to take 1/2" off either, but it's been pretty handy at taking 1/16 or 1/8
off. I'd take the bulk off with a circular saw and then hit the edge with
the power plane.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 11:44:51 -0700, Vince Heuring
<[email protected]> vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>6. I don't know why he's against using an electric plane. I bought mine
>(Bosch) for exactly that purpose. I don't have a hand plane yet, being
>a Normite that's trying to pick up some Neander skills.
I actually _can_ understand his fear of the electric plane. You can
make a big mistake fast with one of those.
On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 17:38:37 -0700, Vince Heuring
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
>doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
>and length. Ugh. I'll use a clamping guide and a circular saw to cut
>the width, but cutting the long side is another story. He doesn't want
>me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
>hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
>rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
>
>I plan on using rollers for infeed and the outfeed table for the
>outfeed side. With maybe a roller beyond that. Any helpful
>suggestions beyond, "get a new friend"?
IMO the TS is a *lot* easier to rip a half inch off a door than any
other tool you could use. I would have someone on the outfeed side to
help catch the door/guide it onto the roller stands, and wouldn't
bother with a stand on the infeed side. A door is a piece of cake
compared to a full 4/8 sheet of plywood ;-)
Oh, just a note on roller stands - if they aren't lined up right they
will guide your piece in or out, lousing up your cut. DAMHIKT
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
"Vince Heuring" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:160120051738374371%[email protected]...
>
> I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
> doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
> and length. Ugh. I'll use a clamping guide and a circular saw to cut
> the width, but cutting the long side is another story. He doesn't want
> me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
> hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
> rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
>
> I plan on using rollers for infeed and the outfeed table for the
> outfeed side. With maybe a roller beyond that. Any helpful
> suggestions beyond, "get a new friend"?
>
> --
> Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.
"You can tell me WHEN, or you can tell me HOW, but you can't tell me BOTH!
Joe
"Vince Heuring" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:160120051738374371%[email protected]...
>
> I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
> doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
> and length. Ugh. I'll use a clamping guide and a circular saw to cut
> the width, but cutting the long side is another story. He doesn't want
> me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
> hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
> rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
Won't he let you clamp on a guide and use the circular saw to cut that edge
down as well? Just out of curiosity, why doesn't he want you to use an
electic plane or a hand plane?
>
> I plan on using rollers for infeed and the outfeed table for the
> outfeed side. With maybe a roller beyond that. Any helpful
> suggestions beyond, "get a new friend"?
>
I'd cut it a little fat on the table saw because you really have a very
small amount of fence guiding your door in the early and the late stages of
the cut. In particular with the beginning of the cut, you have a lot of
leverage at your disposal and it would be very easy to tweak your cut a bit.
Cut it a little fat and you can touch up the edge with a plane afterwards -
or with sandpaper if the neighbor won't let you use that plane.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
I just finished cutting down a door for a friend and ripped it on my new
Craftsman saw with the Biesemeyer comercial fence. An easy cut to make with
some help. I clamped a sacrifical board to the fence to keep the blade from
being too close to the fence. Had help on the outfeed side steadying it and
also someone on the right side (wide side) helping to apply pressure against
the fence. I cut it just wide of the dimemnsions needed and then sanded it
to the line with a belt sander.. Made the cut from the hinge side after
removing the hinges. Then morticed the hinges back to the door. I marked the
locations before cutting so I could reattach them back to the exact position
they were to begin with.
CC
"Vince Heuring" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:160120051738374371%[email protected]...
>
> I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
> doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
> and length. Ugh. I'll use a clamping guide and a circular saw to cut
> the width, but cutting the long side is another story. He doesn't want
> me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
> hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
> rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
>
> I plan on using rollers for infeed and the outfeed table for the
> outfeed side. With maybe a roller beyond that. Any helpful
> suggestions beyond, "get a new friend"?
>
> --
> Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.
If you are still planning to cut them on your table saw, consider adding a
board to your rip fence to extend it's length toward the infeed direction.
It will help you considerably when starting the cut to get it straight.
--
Charley
"Vince Heuring" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:170120051144514147%[email protected]...
> In article <160120051738374371%[email protected]>, Vince
> Heuring <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Once again thanks to the wreckers who replied to my question. Some
> comments on your replies:
>
> 0. He and his wife are not just good friend, they're very good friends.
>
> 1. He tells me they are new solid pine doors. He bought them not
> knowing that his jambs were undersized.
>
> 2. It was just a smidge irritating for him to specify how he wanted
> them cut, but OTOH they *are* his doors. A quick price check found
> interior solid wood doors running from $200 up. I figure if the job
> goes badly it was his pick of methods so he takes the blame. (See #4
> below.)
>
> 3. He will be "assisting" me, probably at the outfeed end.
>
> 4. I'll be telling him in earshot of SWMBO that if the job gets botched
> and the doors ruined it's his dime, not mine.
>
> 5. I agree with one of the OPs that the biggest concern is feeding the
> door straight at the beginning and end of the cut.
>
> 6. I don't know why he's against using an electric plane. I bought mine
> (Bosch) for exactly that purpose. I don't have a hand plane yet, being
> a Normite that's trying to pick up some Neander skills.
>
> > I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
> > doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
> > and length. Ugh. I'll use a clamping guide and a circular saw to cut
> > the width, but cutting the long side is another story. He doesn't want
> > me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
> > hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
> > rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
> >
> > I plan on using rollers for infeed and the outfeed table for the
> > outfeed side. With maybe a roller beyond that. Any helpful
> > suggestions beyond, "get a new friend"?
>
> --
> Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.
"Vince Heuring" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:170120051144514147%[email protected]...
> In article <160120051738374371%[email protected]>, Vince
> Heuring <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Once again thanks to the wreckers who replied to my question. Some
> comments on your replies:
>
> 0. He and his wife are not just good friend, they're very good friends.
>
> 1. He tells me they are new solid pine doors. He bought them not
> knowing that his jambs were undersized.
>
> 2. It was just a smidge irritating for him to specify how he wanted
> them cut, but OTOH they *are* his doors. A quick price check found
> interior solid wood doors running from $200 up. I figure if the job
> goes badly it was his pick of methods so he takes the blame. (See #4
> below.)
A couple things to keep in mind as you wander into this turf...
If these pine doors are panel doors (flat or raised) with rails and stiles
I'd be concerned that taking the whole 1/2" off one edge might make the door
look odd--one "wide" stile and one "narrow" stile. I'd think it would be
more noticeable the narrower the door. If deemed noticeable, and if the door
slabs are not already bored for the lock set, it would then make sense to
take some off both edges. I'd be inclined to scribe reference lines down the
length of each edge and use the power plane given that you are now talking
about 1/4" of removal and not 1/2".
Also, the lock set edge of a door is generally not square to the face of the
door. Rather it is planed at a slight angle to give relief as the door
swings open and shut. The door stop hides the gap introduced by the angled
planning so there are no aesthetics issues. The door slabs I've purchased
did not have this clearance angle so I'd check for it on the object slabs.
Have fun!
John
On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 11:44:51 -0700, Vince Heuring
<[email protected]> wrote:
>6. I don't know why he's against using an electric plane. I bought mine
>(Bosch) for exactly that purpose. I don't have a hand plane yet, being
>a Normite that's trying to pick up some Neander skills.
My personal experience with an electric plan is that they are really
good for making wavy surfaces from flat surfaces. I would use one to
put a bevel on the strike edge, but not to remove 1/2" - it is just
too easy to bugger it up and too hard to get it right compared to the
TS or circ. saw.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
"Vince Heuring" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> He doesn't want
> me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
> hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
> rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
>
> I plan on using rollers for infeed and the outfeed table for the
> outfeed side. With maybe a roller beyond that. Any helpful
> suggestions beyond, "get a new friend"?
Using a guide is not the same as freehand. Done properly it should be a
good cut.
OTOH, maybe this is the excuse you need to build a nice outfeed table.
Making an 80" rip should not be a problem with a decent setup.
Since your friend is bringing the doors to you (he is, isn't he?) and
insisting on a certain setup, I'm sure he will be there to lend a hand.
In article <160120051738374371%[email protected]>,
Vince Heuring <[email protected]> wrote:
> I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
> doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
> and length. Ugh. I'll use a clamping guide and a circular saw to cut
> the width, but cutting the long side is another story. He doesn't want
> me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
> hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
> rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
>
> I plan on using rollers for infeed and the outfeed table for the
> outfeed side. With maybe a roller beyond that. Any helpful
> suggestions beyond, "get a new friend"?
I'd use a straight edge and a router. Maybe becaue I have a straight
edge and a routerbit that you'd need.
In either case, I'd take it off the hinge side, and have your buddy let
the hinges back in. Don't take it off the lock side.
In article <[email protected]>,
Tim Douglass <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 20:58:10 -0500, Robatoy <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >In either case, I'd take it off the hinge side, and have your buddy let
> >the hinges back in. Don't take it off the lock side.
>
> Excellent point. I've made that mistake too...
>
> Tim Douglass
>
> http://www.DouglassClan.com
...and JUST when you think you're all through with making
mistakes..HELLO..there's another one....hehehehehe
On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 20:58:10 -0500, Robatoy <[email protected]>
wrote:
>In either case, I'd take it off the hinge side, and have your buddy let
>the hinges back in. Don't take it off the lock side.
Excellent point. I've made that mistake too...
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
In article <160120051738374371%[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>
>I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
>doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
>and length. Ugh. I'll use a clamping guide and a circular saw to cut
>the width, but cutting the long side is another story. He doesn't want
>me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
>hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
>rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
The best way to do this is with a circular saw and an edge guide, on the long
side as well as the short side. That's not using the circ saw "freehand".
>
>I plan on using rollers for infeed and the outfeed table for the
>outfeed side. With maybe a roller beyond that. Any helpful
>suggestions beyond, "get a new friend"?
Tell your friend that if he wants you to do the job for him, you're going to
do it in the manner that seems best _to_you_ -- and if he thinks he knows more
than you do about how it should be done, he's perfectly free to do it himself,
with his tools.
>
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
I would prefer making the cut with a circular saw. If the door is old, it
is probably out of square, bowed, twisted, whatever. Not ideal for TS work.
You can perform a surprisingly accurate rip with a circular saw by
'pinching' the table with one hand and running those pinched fingers along
the edge.
I would however tell my friend that if he knew how it should be done he
should do it himself.
"Tim Douglass" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> IMO the TS is a *lot* easier to rip a half inch off a door than any
> other tool you could use. I would have someone on the outfeed side to
> help catch the door/guide it onto the roller stands, and wouldn't
> bother with a stand on the infeed side. A door is a piece of cake
> compared to a full 4/8 sheet of plywood ;-)
>
> Oh, just a note on roller stands - if they aren't lined up right they
> will guide your piece in or out, lousing up your cut. DAMHIKT
>
> Tim Douglass
>
> http://www.DouglassClan.com
In article <160120051738374371%[email protected]>,
Vince Heuring <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
>doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
>and length. Ugh. I'll use a clamping guide and a circular saw to cut
>the width, but cutting the long side is another story. He doesn't want
>me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
>hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
>rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
>
>I plan on using rollers for infeed and the outfeed table for the
>outfeed side. With maybe a roller beyond that. Any helpful
>suggestions beyond, "get a new friend"?
>
>--
>Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.
You can get some kind of 8' straight edge to guide the saw for the
lengthwise cut, or assuming the exisiting edge is straight, clamp
a guide fence to your circular saw such that the blade will cut off
a little less than 1/2" and clean up with a plane.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 11:44:51 -0700, Vince Heuring
<[email protected]> wrote:
>1. He tells me they are new solid pine doors. He bought them not
>knowing that his jambs were undersized.
I assume the new doors are blanks with no butt pockets or bore and
probably no bevel on either side.
There will be a lot more to installing these doors than getting them
cut to size. He will be very lucky indeed if his existing jambs are
plum and level. If they are not there will be some fitting required
and you may have to get your electric planer out anyway.
If he is currently happy with the fit of the existing doors then
you're halfway there assuming the existing doors are square.
I've done this job more times than I'd like to remember and I won't do
it without my jointer on the site.
Mike O.
On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 15:51:22 -0500, Mike Marlow wrote:
>
> "Tim Douglass" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> My personal experience with an electric plan is that they are really
>> good for making wavy surfaces from flat surfaces. I would use one to
>> put a bevel on the strike edge, but not to remove 1/2" - it is just too
>> easy to bugger it up and too hard to get it right compared to the TS or
>> circ. saw.
>>
> Mine has treated me well when used for this sort of thing. I wouldn't
> use it to take 1/2" off either, but it's been pretty handy at taking
> 1/16 or 1/8 off. I'd take the bulk off with a circular saw and then hit
> the edge with the power plane.
My first experience with an electric plane showed that taking of 1/2"
before you know it is no problem at all. But then, I only needed to remove
about 3/16". So I had to cut it straight on the table saw and glue a strip
back on. I then used a hand plane to bevel it. Luckily, it was a slab door
which was going to be painted.
--
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
In article <160120051738374371%[email protected]>,
Vince Heuring <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
>doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
>and length. Ugh.
So build yourself a jig.
Rip a 1"x96" edge off MDF or hardboard sheet and don't wory about
accuracy. Screw the edge to the sheet a bit over a saw base width from
the previous cut, with the nice factory straight edge facing the waste line.
Don't wory about accuracy. Support the whole thing and run your circular
down the length with the base against the guide.
You now have a nice saw guide to do long accurate cuts. You can repeat
to make shorter guides that are easier to maneuver, to make angled cuts,
etc.
--
<a href="http://www.poohsticks.org/drew/">Home Page</a>
In 1913 the inflation adjusted (in 2003 dollars) exemption for single people
was $54,567, married couples' exemption $72,756, the next $363,783 was taxed
at 1%, and earnings over $9,094,578 were taxed at the top rate of 7%.
In article <160120051738374371%[email protected]>,
Vince Heuring <[email protected]> wrote:
> I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
> doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
> and length. Ugh. I'll use a clamping guide and a circular saw to cut
> the width, but cutting the long side is another story. He doesn't want
> me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
> hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
> rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
I'm confused. A friend imposes on you for a favor (OK, that's what
friends are for), and then he insists on dictating which tools you use?
Perhaps he has an opinion on how you should be dressed when performing
this favor, or what brand of beer you should serve him while doing it?
Anyway, it doesn't have to be an 80" rip. Take the 1/2" off the bottom
first, then it's just at 79-1/2" rip :-)
On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 17:38:37 -0700, Vince Heuring
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
>doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
>and length. Ugh. I'll use a clamping guide and a circular saw to cut
>the width, but cutting the long side is another story. He doesn't want
>me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
>hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
>rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
>
>I plan on using rollers for infeed and the outfeed table for the
>outfeed side. With maybe a roller beyond that. Any helpful
>suggestions beyond, "get a new friend"?
If he's concerned about chip-out, use the circular saw with a guide to
take off all but about 1/8", placing masking tape on the out-blade side of
the door. Then, using a 1/2" upcut spiral bit in a router and a guide,
use the router to produce a smooth finish.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Now we'll just use some glue to hold things in place until the brads dry
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
I've used both a circular saw with guide and also a table saw for this
kind of job. Both were easy and gave a good result, after hand planing for
detail. Watch for scratches in the face of the door if you use either, and
use tape or backing of some type for tear-out. If the door jamb is bowed,
the circular saw may give a better result. I didn't notice much difference,
though I don't pay a lot of attention to minor imperfections. Although you
could cut from the hinge side with a somewhat better result, you would need
to recut the hinge plate sites with a router or chisel. It would probably be
less work to cut from the latch side, as long as the door nob hole is not
already drilled. If it is, it may be easier to work from the hinge side,
although there is some tolerance for door nob hardware distances -- check
the door nob hardware directions.
Dave
"Vince Heuring" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:160120051738374371%[email protected]...
>
> I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
> doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
> and length. Ugh. I'll use a clamping guide and a circular saw to cut
> the width, but cutting the long side is another story. He doesn't want
> me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
> hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
> rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
>
> I plan on using rollers for infeed and the outfeed table for the
> outfeed side. With maybe a roller beyond that. Any helpful
> suggestions beyond, "get a new friend"?
>
> --
> Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.
On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 17:38:37 -0700, Vince Heuring
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I just got a call from a friend wanting me to "help" him cut down three
>doors. He wants to remove about 1/2" from each dimension, both width
>and length. Ugh. I'll use a clamping guide and a circular saw to cut
>the width, but cutting the long side is another story. He doesn't want
>me to use the circular saw freehand, nor does he want me to use a
>hand-held electric or hand plane. So I guess it's going to be an 80"
>rip on the table saw. Ugh^2.
This may be advice you don't need but when cutting the length be sure
to score your cut line anywhere it goes across the grain. On a plain
veneer door this will be all the way across. This will prevent tear
out from the blade.
I think you could rip them on the table saw easily enough but you will
still need to clean up the cut with a jointer or something. If you
have access to a jointer you could make several passes to get your
1/2".
If you have to rip them with the table saw be sure to have the friend
tail them for you. That way at least you can share the blame if
something goes wrong.
Mike O.