"Sam Berlyn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
>
> I have an awful plane, which just scratches the surface (already mentioned
> in "Cheap Tools") and I would like to be able to take off a layer of wood
in
> curls (as in http://www.skpromotions.co.uk/images/plane.jpg ) Any
> recommendations?
> Prices types etc...
With due respect, do you know how to sharpen and adjust your plane? Even
the most expensive plane in the world will not work well, if not sharp and
set up properly. I bet your crappy plane could be made to work decently, or
perhaps superbly, with a proper tuning and blade sharpening.
Bob
On Wed, 17 Nov 2004 18:10:18 GMT, "Bob"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Stanley
>#8 Jointer plane. It got dropped in shipping and arrived with a cracked
>casting and bent blade angle adjustment thingy. I sent pictures to the
>dealer, who filed a claim with the shipper and told me to just keep the
>plane with a full refund. So here I sat with a free busted, ugly-as-sin
>plane.
get that crack brazed up right.
On Wed, 17 Nov 2004 07:39:40 GMT, Bob <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> do you know how to sharpen and adjust your plane? Even
> the most expensive plane in the world will not work well, if not sharp and
> set up properly. I bet your crappy plane could be made to work decently, or
> perhaps superbly, with a proper tuning and blade sharpening.
Bob,
I have several old Stanley planes, rummage-sale purchases and the like.
They're all in pretty random condition but complete. Some little, some
big, and a nice 22" or so Joiner plane that would probably be great if I
had the thing in workable condition.
I don't really consider myself much of a neander-type guy, but here's the
question. Should I fix 'em up (lap the soles, smooth the blade, what else?),
or should I sell 'em to someone who would appreciate them more?
If I want to fix these things up, how much investment in time might it be,
and where should I start?
Dave Hinz
On Wed, 17 Nov 2004 12:50:47 -0600, Conan the Librarian <[email protected]> wrote:
> Dave Hinz wrote:
>
>
>> I have several old Stanley planes, rummage-sale purchases and the like.
>> They're all in pretty random condition but complete.
(snip)
>> Should I fix 'em up (lap the soles, smooth the blade, what else?),
>> or should I sell 'em to someone who would appreciate them more?
>> If I want to fix these things up, how much investment in time might it be,
>> and where should I start?
>
> You've gotten good advice from a couple of other folks on this
> subject, but let me toss in one little tidbit: You don't necessarily
> need to spend your time flattening the sole of your plane.
So, there's a site out there to identify these old Stanley planes. I
think the next step is figure out what I have, find out if they're
super-desirable to someone who would appreciate them more than me, and if
not, to at least get the blades into decent shape. I do have access to
a Tormek (my father-in-law's shop), which I think I'm seeing is
acceptable?
Dave
Dave Hinz wrote:
> I have several old Stanley planes, rummage-sale purchases and the like.
> They're all in pretty random condition but complete. Some little, some
> big, and a nice 22" or so Joiner plane that would probably be great if I
> had the thing in workable condition.
>
> I don't really consider myself much of a neander-type guy, but here's the
> question. Should I fix 'em up (lap the soles, smooth the blade, what else?),
> or should I sell 'em to someone who would appreciate them more?
> If I want to fix these things up, how much investment in time might it be,
> and where should I start?
Sorry Dave, they're in much worse shape than you think. I'll give
you $10 for them all, plus shipping, sight unseen. %-)
How much work depends on the condition each plane is in. I can't
remember, where are you? Take a look at Jeff Gorman's website,
fettling, and if you need more help write me. It's important to
do the work right or you can "fix" a good plane into being a paper
weight.
Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.Patinatools.org/
Dave Hinz wrote:
> So, there's a site out there to identify these old Stanley planes. I
> think the next step is figure out what I have, find out if they're
> super-desirable to someone who would appreciate them more than me, and if
> not, to at least get the blades into decent shape. I do have access to
> a Tormek (my father-in-law's shop), which I think I'm seeing is
> acceptable?
Lots of sites, start with: WWW.supertool.com, committ it to memory
in its entirety. After that we'll start talking plane studies.
%-)
Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.Patinatools.org/
Well, maybe not full silk possible, but try;
http://www.amgron.clara.net/
"Sam Berlyn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
>
> I have an awful plane, which just scratches the surface (already mentioned
> in "Cheap Tools") and I would like to be able to take off a layer of wood
in
> curls (as in http://www.skpromotions.co.uk/images/plane.jpg ) Any
> recommendations?
> Prices types etc...
>
> Cheers,
>
> Sam
>
>
Hmmmm. If the plane's dull and your foot's not on the lower step, maybe.
Or maybe you have to be my mass to do the the trick?
"patriarch [email protected]>" <<patriarch> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> <snip of good stuff>
>
> > Remember that planing uses two tools; a plane and a bench. Trying to
> > plane on a Workmate is most frustrating.
> >
>
> And pretty much negates most of the plane tuning that you might have done.
> The work HAS to remain steady for the plane to do it's job.
>
> Unless you pull the plane, in the Asian style. But that's another story.
>
> Benches needn't be pretty, expensive, or of heirloom quality (not that it
> hurts), but they do need to be rigid. And mass helps.
>
> Patriarch
Well, not at my house.
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 07:27:01 -0500, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>
> >Hmmmm. If the plane's dull and your foot's not on the lower step, maybe.
> >Or maybe you have to be my mass to do the the trick?
>
> No, I don't think putting any amount of weight on the lower step will
> help. The frame just isn't rigid against side-to-side racking. The
> step might be stable, but the top will be waving about. It's a bit
> more rigid front-to-back, so they are usable for sawing.
>
> A Workmate is also too short for many planing jobs.
> --
> Smert' spamionam
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:BKLmd.105914$bk1.37650@fed1read05...
> then do the honing. When I have found that, I hold the blade down and the
off an
> edge of the work area and file away.
Alex, please have a go at re-typing this sentence. I think you editted out
a word or two. I didn't follow it. I really want to understand how you were
suggesting the use of a file.
Thanks,
Bob
> Hi,
> I have an awful plane, which just scratches the surface (already mentioned
> in "Cheap Tools") and I would like to be able to take off a layer of wood in
> curls (as in http://www.skpromotions.co.uk/images/plane.jpg ) Any
> recommendations?
> Prices types etc...
> Cheers,
>
>
I think it's probably a perfectly fine plane if you do the work it takes to tune it up.
Like, get the sole flat, sharpen the blade, and so forth. The best method is go to
a junk business and try to find a thick piece of glass, large enough for the size of
two sheets of sandpaper. Buy four grits, 80, 220, 400, 800, and buy a can of 3M
Super 77 at any hardware or crafts store. Also try and find a cheap honing guide
to hold chisels and plane blades (an actual "must").
Layout newspaper, sandpaper face down and spray the back lightly* and even, then
lay it on the glass square and flat. Cover the glass with the sandpaper. You can use
flat marble too, I have both but I use the marble for chisels only because the glass
has much more integrity for flatness, doesn't matter as much for chisels. The glass
should be at least 1/2" thick but it is somewhat expensive to buy new. Junk shop.
Disassemble the plane and clean all parts thoroughly without wrecking the finish,
dry it all thoroughly as well or it will rust easily.
Start with 80 grit until the whole sole is flat, then remove rough grit marks
progressively with finer grits. Once the sandpaper is spent, clogged, useless, peel
it off and use paint thinner and paper towels to clean the surface, and apply new
sandpaper when dry. If adhesive is left dry on the surface and new paper is applied
it will result in an uneven surface of hills and valleys.
Sand the sole of the plane body without applying too much pressure in favor of
any specific area of the sole, do this until the whole sole is shiny. One way to see
when it is all totally flat, use an ink marker and scribble across the sole, as it flattens
the ink will disappear. Also do the same for the outside_sides of the plane body,
the reason is to square the sole to the sides. For this purpose you will need a square,
so you can test it from time to time with a lamp to shine through.
You can do the same for the face of the "frog", sanding around the "nib" that
is part of the "Y" Adjusting Lever, see graphic of plane parts:
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan1.htm it sticks out from the face of
the frog. Don't sand on it. But, you can do this job lightly until there is no
unevenness of the face.
After all that work, sharpen the blade using the scary sharp method with the surface,
sandpaper and the honing guide. Start with 220 grit until a new bevel is just*
ground on, then go to 400 and then 800, you could as far as 1200 so that cutting
edge becomes like glass. Don't grind too fast and hard, or uneven or you'll ruin the
squareness of the cutting edge to the sides, vital! If that edge_to_sides is already out_
of_square you'll need to use a file_to_square_it, right straight on that cutting edge,
then do the honing. When I have found that, I hold the blade down and the off an
edge of the work area and file away. It doesn't take long, a vise would help good but
use wood. Also test with a square.
Reassemble and enjoy planing, no matter what company made the damn thing!
When planing, find the grain of the wood where it travels in direction upwards
and follow it that way, don't go against the grain. When setting the blade it must
stick out of the mouth just_BARELY, and not skewed to either side.
If you want good chisels to learn with, I suggest Stanley 200 series, great
quality and really low prices. Wooden mallet. Enjoy!
Alex
> Thanks for making the effort. So when you are done with the file, there is
> basically no beveled edge or very little left and then you re-establish the
> bevel with sharpening?
>
>
The round is never more than 3/32" to 1/8" out, then back to the scary sharp.
For that much flat on the cutting edge I will use 100 grit to re-establish the
bevel.
Alex
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Q_Wmd.106074$bk1.57391@fed1read05...
> "oh"...sorry... squaring the entire cutting end, dude. This is if the old
blade is like, cutting
> edge is convex, or rounded outwards like a scrub plane blade. I hold down
the whole blade
> with my left hand an then, straight into the cutting edge, I file it
flat_to_square. So that all
> three sides are squared. Sides to cutting edge and cutting edge to sides.
Does that make sense
> now? Let me know.
Thanks for making the effort. So when you are done with the file, there is
basically no beveled edge or very little left and then you re-establish the
bevel with sharpening?
Bob
> > Remember that planing uses two tools; a plane and a bench. Trying to
> > plane on a Workmate is most frustrating.
> >
> And pretty much negates most of the plane tuning that you might have done.
> The work HAS to remain steady for the plane to do it's job.
> Unless you pull the plane, in the Asian style. But that's another story.
> Benches needn't be pretty, expensive, or of heirloom quality (not that it
> hurts), but they do need to be rigid. And mass helps.
>
>
And definitely definitely FLAT!
Alex
> > then do the honing. When I have found that, I hold the blade down and the
> > off an edge of the work area and file away.
>
> Alex, please have a go at re-typing this sentence. I think you editted out
> a word or two. I didn't follow it. I really want to understand how you were
> suggesting the use of a file.
>
>
"oh"...sorry... squaring the entire cutting end, dude. This is if the old blade is like, cutting
edge is convex, or rounded outwards like a scrub plane blade. I hold down the whole blade
with my left hand an then, straight into the cutting edge, I file it flat_to_square. So that all
three sides are squared. Sides to cutting edge and cutting edge to sides. Does that make sense
now? Let me know.
Alex
patriarch < wrote:
> Look for a good recent article by David Charlesworth on tuning up a less
> than perfect handplane of recent manufacture. I think it was in Fine
> Woodworking, within the last several issues. The principles and techniques
> are appropriate to many of the metal-bodied planes made over the last 75
> years or more.
FWW #172 (October 2004) p.36 - the one with the bar clamps on the cover
Tom Veatch <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> 3) Get a copy of "The Handplane Book" by Garrett Hack, ISBN
> 1-56158-155-0 or 1-56158-317-0. Lots of How-to's, Why's, and
> Wherefore's to be found in that book.
>
Not to mention, it's a great bit of tool porn.
Seriously, a very useful book. Your library may have a copy, too.
Regards,
JT
"Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> "Sam Berlyn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Hi,
>>
>> I have an awful plane, which just scratches the surface (already
>> mentioned in "Cheap Tools") and I would like to be able to take off a
>> layer of wood
> in
>> curls (as in http://www.skpromotions.co.uk/images/plane.jpg ) Any
>> recommendations?
>> Prices types etc...
>
>
> With due respect, do you know how to sharpen and adjust your plane?
> Even the most expensive plane in the world will not work well, if not
> sharp and set up properly. I bet your crappy plane could be made to
> work decently, or perhaps superbly, with a proper tuning and blade
> sharpening.
>
Look for a good recent article by David Charlesworth on tuning up a less
than perfect handplane of recent manufacture. I think it was in Fine
Woodworking, within the last several issues. The principles and techniques
are appropriate to many of the metal-bodied planes made over the last 75
years or more.
And then sharpen it well. Google "Scary sharp"
Patriarch
Conan the Librarian <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
Hey! Long time no see! Welcome back!
Patriarch
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip of good stuff>
> Remember that planing uses two tools; a plane and a bench. Trying to
> plane on a Workmate is most frustrating.
>
And pretty much negates most of the plane tuning that you might have done.
The work HAS to remain steady for the plane to do it's job.
Unless you pull the plane, in the Asian style. But that's another story.
Benches needn't be pretty, expensive, or of heirloom quality (not that it
hurts), but they do need to be rigid. And mass helps.
Patriarch
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> get that crack brazed up right.
Yes sir! Hmmm, guess I'll look in the yellow pages for someone that
advertises repairs to cast iron and "no job too small".
Bob
On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 20:13:35 -0000, "Sam Berlyn" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I have an awful plane, which just scratches the surface (already mentioned
>in "Cheap Tools") and I would like to be able to take off a layer of wood in
>curls (as in http://www.skpromotions.co.uk/images/plane.jpg ) Any
>recommendations?
>Prices types etc...
>
>Cheers,
>
>Sam
>
To add a 3) to Bridger's response:
3) Get a copy of "The Handplane Book" by Garrett Hack, ISBN 1-56158-155-0 or
1-56158-317-0. Lots of How-to's, Why's, and Wherefore's to be found in that
book.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS USA
Dave Hinz wrote:
> I have several old Stanley planes, rummage-sale purchases and the like.
> They're all in pretty random condition but complete. Some little, some
> big, and a nice 22" or so Joiner plane that would probably be great if I
> had the thing in workable condition.
>
> I don't really consider myself much of a neander-type guy, but here's the
> question. Should I fix 'em up (lap the soles, smooth the blade, what else?),
> or should I sell 'em to someone who would appreciate them more?
> If I want to fix these things up, how much investment in time might it be,
> and where should I start?
You've gotten good advice from a couple of other folks on this
subject, but let me toss in one little tidbit: You don't necessarily
need to spend your time flattening the sole of your plane. Once you
sharpen the iron, fit the cap-iron properly, check the frog, etc., give
the plane a test-drive. If it works well, don't worry about lapping the
sole. If it doesn't work well (i.e., it either digs or doesn't take a
shaving at all; there doesn't seem to be any middle ground), then you
may want to consider lapping it.
The sole does not have to be totally flat; it basically needs to be
co-planar. As long as there is no major depression right in front of
the mouth, you'll probably be OK.
For example, my trusty type 17 #6 (my favorite plane until recently)
has never been lapped. I took it out of the box, sharpened the iron,
tweaked the cap-iron, adjusted the frog and started making shavings. I
guess I could have lapped the sole for cosmetic reasons, but it sure
didn't need it in order to work.
Chuck Vance
On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 07:27:01 -0500, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>Hmmmm. If the plane's dull and your foot's not on the lower step, maybe.
>Or maybe you have to be my mass to do the the trick?
No, I don't think putting any amount of weight on the lower step will
help. The frame just isn't rigid against side-to-side racking. The
step might be stable, but the top will be waving about. It's a bit
more rigid front-to-back, so they are usable for sawing.
A Workmate is also too short for many planing jobs.
--
Smert' spamionam
"Dave Hinz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I don't really consider myself much of a neander-type guy, but here's the
> question. Should I fix 'em up (lap the soles, smooth the blade, what
else?),
> or should I sell 'em to someone who would appreciate them more?
I'm honored that you asked me the questions. I'm not all the experienced
but I learn quickly and perhaps have had some experiences that will help you
draw your own conclusions, so let me give a few anecdotes.
My first hand plane encounter was building a wood plane kit. I wanted to
get into it without spending $400 on a Lie Neilson. The kit was $65 and I
learned a lot by building and using it. It took about fours hours to build
it and two hours to carve the mouth to fit. I almost gave up when I
realized I had to carve the mouth. When I finished I was less than
satisfied with what it looked like but determined to push through to the
end. Then I had to hone the blade. It was a Hock blade that came ground but
needed final sharpening. I'd never done this before. This lead me to the
land of sharpening religions. Hey just spend $700 on a Tormek and all the
jigs and you're done right? No way! I ended up buying a combination
waterstone (1000/8000 grit) and a Veritas sharpening guide. When I
finished, the blade was decently sharp and appeared shaped right. I put the
plane together and tried it. Groan! What a flop. I read some more and
decided the mouth of the plane did not fit right. Three days later I picked
it up and sat at my desk in the house creating a mess, as I carved away at
the incredibly tough Goncolo Alves woodend sole. I made another attempt at
setting the blade correctly. I clamped a piece of wood in my rusty old
workmate and started. Ahhhh!!!!! Wow! Whoosh, whoosh whoosh! I wasn't
making anything, but I was planing, man! At night I before I went to bed, I
would sneak out to the shop and pick up the "Bob Davis hand crafted" wooden
plane and just admire it.
Fast rewind through several experiences to the last one. I bought a Stanley
#8 Jointer plane. It got dropped in shipping and arrived with a cracked
casting and bent blade angle adjustment thingy. I sent pictures to the
dealer, who filed a claim with the shipper and told me to just keep the
plane with a full refund. So here I sat with a free busted, ugly-as-sin
plane. Hmmm. The crack was ugly but the subtantial casting on this plane
still seemed straight to me. I stop-drilled the crack to prevent further
spread. I straightened the bent piece in my vice and put it altogether. The
blade was not ground square enough for my taste. The previous owner had
obviously whipped it by hand it was more of a half moon contour edge.
Well let me tell this butt-ugly half-ass sharpened plane was amazing. I took
the twist out of some planks and flattened some 6" stock in no time. I could
not believe it. So I got serious and re-ground the edge and honed it (2
hours time). I took the plane apart and cleaned everything so that it
worked properly, including the cast iron frog (another 2 hours). Now I have
an oiled, aligned, sharp butt-ugly plane. The performance is stunning. I'm
now considering buying a replacement wood tote for it to get that missing
top piece that helps support your hand.
So minimum care to get it working - clean it and oil the parts and sharpen
the blade - about 4 hours work. If you want do get into the restoration
business to make it pretty, that's more time and not really much more money.
But first you should send pictures of your old planes to me so I can offer
to buy them from you! Its addicting to take a piece of junk and make it
useful again.
Bob's minimalist sharpening kit:
Jeff Gorman style homemade jig $3.00 + 1 hour
Combination waterstone $39.95
Old Hand grinder bought on ebay $3.99 + $10 shipping
New grinding wheel $22
Bronze bushing to adapt new grinding wheel to old hand grinder $1.70
Vertitas grinding tool rest and jig $62 (local retail store)
Bob
On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 20:13:35 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Any recommendations?
Read Jeff Gorman's web site
Buy some sharpening equipment
("Scary Sharp" can be your first port of call)
Find a Stanley #4 (in modern cities, you're never more than 100 yards
from an old Stanley #4. Try to find them nesting under old benches,
abandoned in sheds or junk shops) If you're really stuck, try eBay.
There's one view that says you should never buy a #4, because they
will naturally appear anyway. You might learn to do electrolytic
derusting too.
Get an old one, because it costs nothing and they're better made than
the new ones. They'll both need tuning. There are no usable,
affordable bench planes being made new at present. Avoid Anant,
Rolson and BlackSpur! Stanley and Record are better, but still not
good. Clifton and L-N are excellent, but expensive. Lee Valley /
Veritas are excellent (and not so expensive), but you have to buy them
mail order from Canada.
If you do have the money to buy a brand shiny new plane, spend it on
the Lee Valley low-angle block plane. This is a truly excellent piece
of work. It's also easier to find and restore a usable bench plane
than it is to do this with a block plane.
Fairly soon you should try to get two or three planes:
- A block plane. An old Stanley, ideally a low-angle (or the L-V).
You will use this more than any other plane, especially if you're
mainly jigsawing and routing.
- A smoothing plane (a #4, a #3 or a #4 1/2) The #3 is best, if you
have small hands. Set this up so that it barely cuts, but leaves a
good finish behind.
- A jack plane. A #5 is nearly as easy to find as a #4, but a better
length. Set this one up with a more aggressive cut and do your
finishing with the smoother.
Remember that planing uses two tools; a plane and a bench. Trying to
plane on a Workmate is most frustrating.
--
Smert' spamionam
On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 20:13:35 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I have an awful plane, which just scratches the surface (already mentioned
>in "Cheap Tools") and I would like to be able to take off a layer of wood in
>curls (as in http://www.skpromotions.co.uk/images/plane.jpg ) Any
>recommendations?
>Prices types etc...
>
>Cheers,
>
>Sam
>
two things.
1) your awful plane may be able to be made into a useable one. it'll
be a bit of work, but won't cost you anything and will teach you a lot
about how planes work.
2) planes that you can go out and buy that work right away fall into
two categories.
A)expensive new ones like:
Lie-Nielsen
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/
or veritas
<http://www.leevalley.com/home/search.asp?SID=&ccurrency=&pageGroup=1>
or knight
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/
or other such yummy stuffs.
B)old planes. these come from wherever second hand tools are
found in your part of the world (which I hear rumored is rich hunting
grounds) and are often very high quality at very reasonable prices.
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
> If you do have the money to buy a brand shiny new plane, spend it on
> the Lee Valley low-angle block plane. This is a truly excellent piece
> of work.
Agreed. If I had to give up all but one of my planes, this would be the one
I kept.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04
On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 20:13:35 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
<[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>Hi,
>
>I have an awful plane, which just scratches the surface (already mentioned
>in "Cheap Tools") and I would like to be able to take off a layer of wood in
>curls (as in http://www.skpromotions.co.uk/images/plane.jpg ) Any
>recommendations?
>Prices types etc...
For new planes, give Steve Knight a peek: www.KnightToolworks.com
or go hunting on Ebay, where most of my metal planes originated.
Old Stanley planes go for $20 or less on good days.
Also, I managed to get a cheaparse Indian import plane (like HF's
$9.99 junker) to cut like a dream for a few feet. Once I had learned
how to properly ScarySharpen(tm) the blade AND how to set it very
fine, so it took less of a bite in the wood, it worked much, much
better. I soon found out that I -used- to think of as "sharp" was
actually more like "dull as nails."
My test for sharpness: Set the iron on my thumbnail vertically.
Using no downward pressure, I try to move the iron up my nail toward
the thumb. It should scrape a fine shaving, and i should have felt
it cut gently into the nail as I let it down. (Once you have really
thin thumbnails, move on to other fingernails.)
__=__ thumbnail
m / \
o ================ iron
v | |
e -------
| |
| | | thumb
| | |
v
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* OPERA: A Latin word * Wondrous Website Design
* meaning * Save your Heirloom Photos
* "death by music" * http://www.diversify.com
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On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 20:13:35 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I have an awful plane, which just scratches the surface (already mentioned
>in "Cheap Tools") and I would like to be able to take off a layer of wood in
>curls (as in http://www.skpromotions.co.uk/images/plane.jpg ) Any
>recommendations?
>Prices types etc...
Hello again Sam,
I've got a old Bailey plane that I found down in my dad's basement,
all covered in rust. I couldn't get the thing to work no matter what
I did, even though I read every article I could find, and spent hour
after hour trying different things. I figured it was just a peice of
junk, and I wanted to toss it out and buy a new one. But then I took
a woodworking class (in your case, you may want to just find a teacher
or friend who knows how to do it) and the instructor showed me how to
set it up and use it properly in about 25 minutes. Now it works
great! Sometimes what you need isn't a new tool- it's just a helping
hand from someone who is in the same room with you to show you how it
all works.
Good Luck!
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam