I need to cut about 50 strips of 3/4 birch plywood at EXACTLY the
width of 2 of said strips at 24" long. I don't have a table saw. The
straightedge that I have (one of the ones you get at the
borg--aluminum, 2 piece, 97" total length) bows in the middle by about
3/32" on the 8' cut, quite a bit less on the 4' cut. This is because
I apply gentle pressure against the fence throughout the cut, and it
consequently pushes the "fence" inward. Even more than that, though,
I'm having trouble relocating the fence after every cut in a position
that each cut is EXACTLY the same. I set my combination square at 7
11/32" (2 and a quarter for the strip of wood, 5 for the shoe of the
saw, and 3/32 for the kerf) and set the fence off that, but I find
that there's still a variance. Does anyone have any suggestions on
how to minimize (or eliminate) this deviation?
The reason I ask is that I'm making an end table with a top that has
plywood strips oriented two at a time perpendicular to each other:
||--||--||--||--
You get the idea.
Thanks for the help,
-Phil Crow
p.s. That two and a quarter was for another piece of the table.
You can make a stop block. Just a couple pieces of wood put together in an L
shape. One leg the right length to set the fence from the edge for the size
you need. Hook it over the edge and set the guide. Another way is to make a
fence that attaches directly to the saw. Once set, you can do cut after cut
with no guide to reposition each time.
"Phil Crow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks for the advice, and that there saw guide looks like a hell of a
> good idea. So the problem of fence deflection is solved. But, is
> there a way for me to make sure I get the same cut every time, or am I
> just wanting too much from a circular saw? My goal here is to be able
> to glue and brad nail all the pairs of plywood together, then glue up
> all of the pairs into a panel. I realize the harder I work at the
> repeatablity issue now, the less sanding I have to do later, and belt
> sanding an eighth inch off of the table will not help the finished
> product.
>
> 'Preciate it.
>
> -Phil Crow
Tue, Sep 23, 2003, 12:02am (EDT+4) [email protected] (CW)
claims:
<snip> Once set, you can do cut after cut with no guide to reposition
each time.
I would say that should be correct. However. Always a however.
LOL However, I found my circular saw wasn't cutting to the guide for
the first six inches or so, it sorta bowed, then it cut a straight line.
It's an old saw, and I found the blade wobbles a bit, just a fraction.
So, looks like the bearings are a tad worn. But, still works fine, and
I don't require the accruacy, so am living with it. But, once it gets
about 6 inches into the cut, like I said, it follows the guide
beautifully.
JOAT
The whole of life is a learning process.
- John Keel
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 22 Sep 2003. Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
Well,
I made a saw guide and I tried a few pieces (short cuts) still using
my combination square set to the depth (width/lentgth?) I needed,
rather than use a stop block. I was able to get good results. The
big pain is that it takes about 4 minutes to set the jig, mask the
wood (to avoid tearout), SLOWLY make the cut and remove the tape.
Doesn't make for exactly speedy work. But, my saw is pretty new, my
blade is pretty sharp and my patience is pretty long.
Thanks for the insight, y'all.
-Phil Crow
[email protected] (Jack-of-all-trades - JOAT) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Tue, Sep 23, 2003, 12:02am (EDT+4) [email protected] (CW)
> claims:
> <snip> Once set, you can do cut after cut with no guide to reposition
> each time.
>
> I would say that should be correct. However. Always a however.
> LOL However, I found my circular saw wasn't cutting to the guide for
> the first six inches or so, it sorta bowed, then it cut a straight line.
> It's an old saw, and I found the blade wobbles a bit, just a fraction.
> So, looks like the bearings are a tad worn. But, still works fine, and
> I don't require the accruacy, so am living with it. But, once it gets
> about 6 inches into the cut, like I said, it follows the guide
> beautifully.
>
> JOAT
> The whole of life is a learning process.
> - John Keel
>
> Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
> Web Page Update 22 Sep 2003. Some tunes I like.
> http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
Phil Crow wrote:
> 3/32" on the 8' cut, quite a bit less on the 4' cut. This is because
> I apply gentle pressure against the fence throughout the cut, and it
Maybe clamp pieces of wood in a couple of places along the long side to back
up the straight edge, like
+--------|0|--+
| ||| |
| ||| |
===0========||| |
| ||| |
| ||| |
| ||| |
| ||| |
===0========||| |
| ||| |
| ||| |
| ||| |
+--------|0|--+
0 CLAMPS
= WOOD SUPPORTS
| STRAIGHT EDGE
> 11/32" (2 and a quarter for the strip of wood, 5 for the shoe of the
> saw, and 3/32 for the kerf) and set the fence off that, but I find
> that there's still a variance. Does anyone have any suggestions on
> how to minimize (or eliminate) this deviation?
If you get the first cut straight, and still have a straight edge, then
maybe try using a pair or three of combination squares (or some shop made
gauges of some sort) set for the necessary measurement, checked against
each other to make sure they're all the same. Clamp them to the edge and
butt the fence up against them while clamping it down.
Also be sure the fence doesn't move on one end when you clamp down the
other. You might have to make small, gentle adjustments with a mallet
after the clamps are snug, but not yet completely tight.
That's about all I can think of. I don't have much experience with doing
that sort of work, and there might be better tricks I haven't thought of.
The last time I used my circular saw, I was trying to use it to cut down a
tree.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 17886 Approximate word count: 536580
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Phil Crow wrote:
<snipped>
> The reason I ask is that I'm making an end table with a top that has
> plywood strips oriented two at a time perpendicular to each other:
> ||--||--||--||--
If you have a router table cut the pieces slightly oversized. Set the
router up first as a jointer to true the first edge. Next set the router
table's fence exactly 2" from the bit to trim the stock to size. You'll
be cutting on what would normally be the back side of the bit, so remember
to reverse the feed direction of the stock and use the appropriate feather
boards and hold downs.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
Someone mentioned making a saw guide. That's how I would do it.
Attach your straight edge to a piece of 1/4" sheetgood (either plywood or
masonite work fine). Use screws every 1' or so. That will stop the straight
edge from bowing. Screw from the plywood into the straight edge, and counter
sink the holes so that the screw heads do not stick out past the plywood. The
plywood should be about 1' wide and 8' long. Attach the straight edge about 6"
from the edge. Once the straight edge is in place, run your saw down the
straight edge, and cut off the edge of the plywood.
The edge of the sawguide will show you exactly where the saw will cut. To get
repeatable 2" thick rips, cut a scrap block about 4" long and 2 3/16" wide.
Use this a guage block when clamping the saw guide instead of measuring. Just
hold the gauge block flush with the edge of the piece you are cutting, and push
the saw guide tight to the back of the gauge block.
These saw guides are even better when you are crosscutting plywood (or wood
veneered doors). Clamp the guide over the good side of the cut line, and run a
razor knife down the edge of the guide. This will stop tearout on the top of
the cut piece.
BTW, if you don't want to use your Borg straight edge for this, you can use
the factory edge of a piece of 3/4" plywood.
David
remove the key to email me.
Two thougths:
1. Buy something like this guide
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/showdetl.cfm?offerings_id=2446&objectgroup_id=330&catid=69&DID=6
2. Build a saw guide.
http://www.diynet.com/DIY/article/0,2058,2695,00.html
"Phil Crow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I need to cut about 50 strips of 3/4 birch plywood at EXACTLY the
> width of 2 of said strips at 24" long. I don't have a table saw. The
> straightedge that I have (one of the ones you get at the
> borg--aluminum, 2 piece, 97" total length) bows in the middle by about
> 3/32" on the 8' cut, quite a bit less on the 4' cut. This is because
> I apply gentle pressure against the fence throughout the cut, and it
> consequently pushes the "fence" inward. Even more than that, though,
> I'm having trouble relocating the fence after every cut in a position
> that each cut is EXACTLY the same. I set my combination square at 7
> 11/32" (2 and a quarter for the strip of wood, 5 for the shoe of the
> saw, and 3/32 for the kerf) and set the fence off that, but I find
> that there's still a variance. Does anyone have any suggestions on
> how to minimize (or eliminate) this deviation?
>
> The reason I ask is that I'm making an end table with a top that has
> plywood strips oriented two at a time perpendicular to each other:
> ||--||--||--||--
>
> You get the idea.
>
> Thanks for the help,
>
> -Phil Crow
>
> p.s. That two and a quarter was for another piece of the table.
Mon, Sep 22, 2003, 12:00am (EDT+4) [email protected] (me) says:
<snip> 2. Build a saw guide.
http://www.diynet.com/DIY/article/0,2058,2695,00.html
I especially like that one. It shows a table saw being used to
make one.
JOAT
The whole of life is a learning process.
- John Keel
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 20 Sep 2003. Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
Yeah, I added that just for him to look at. The BORG or Lowes will give you
one free cut on a sheet of ply. I figured if he could use that one free
cut to get the piece to make his guide.
"Jack-of-all-trades - JOAT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Mon, Sep 22, 2003, 12:00am (EDT+4) [email protected] (me) says:
> <snip> 2. Build a saw guide.
> http://www.diynet.com/DIY/article/0,2058,2695,00.html
>
> I especially like that one. It shows a table saw being used to
> make one.
>
> JOAT
> The whole of life is a learning process.
> - John Keel
>
> Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
> Web Page Update 20 Sep 2003. Some tunes I like.
> http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
>
Mon, Sep 22, 2003, 10:59am [email protected] (nct_buyer) says:
Yeah, I added that just for him to look at. The BORG or Lowes will give
you one free cut on a sheet of ply. <snip>
I don't go to Home Depot, unless I'm really, really, desperate.
But the two Lowes I get plywood at, the first three cuts are free, then
it's 25 cents per cut after. Exccept, they usually forget to charge.
JOAT
The whole of life is a learning process.
- John Keel
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 20 Sep 2003. Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
On Mon, 22 Sep 2003 10:59:51 -0400, nct_buyer wrote:
> Yeah, I added that just for him to look at. The BORG or Lowes will give you
> one free cut on a sheet of ply. I figured if he could use that one free
> cut to get the piece to make his guide.
Sorry, do you mean that they charge you to cut the sheets?
Homebase (in the UK) will cut sheets as many times as you want (the guy
doing it may not look happy if you ask him to cut a sheet in to 1"x1"
squares, but they'll do it).
Cheers,
Andy
Build a fence that attaches to the saw.
"me" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Two thougths:
>
> 1. Buy something like this guide
>
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/showdetl.cfm?offerings_id=2446&objectgroup_id=330&catid=69&DID=6
>
> 2. Build a saw guide.
> http://www.diynet.com/DIY/article/0,2058,2695,00.html
>
> "Phil Crow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I need to cut about 50 strips of 3/4 birch plywood at EXACTLY the
> > width of 2 of said strips at 24" long. I don't have a table saw. The
> > straightedge that I have (one of the ones you get at the
> > borg--aluminum, 2 piece, 97" total length) bows in the middle by about
> > 3/32" on the 8' cut, quite a bit less on the 4' cut. This is because
> > I apply gentle pressure against the fence throughout the cut, and it
> > consequently pushes the "fence" inward. Even more than that, though,
> > I'm having trouble relocating the fence after every cut in a position
> > that each cut is EXACTLY the same. I set my combination square at 7
> > 11/32" (2 and a quarter for the strip of wood, 5 for the shoe of the
> > saw, and 3/32 for the kerf) and set the fence off that, but I find
> > that there's still a variance. Does anyone have any suggestions on
> > how to minimize (or eliminate) this deviation?
> >
> > The reason I ask is that I'm making an end table with a top that has
> > plywood strips oriented two at a time perpendicular to each other:
> > ||--||--||--||--
> >
> > You get the idea.
> >
> > Thanks for the help,
> >
> > -Phil Crow
> >
> > p.s. That two and a quarter was for another piece of the table.
>
>
I did not read the rest of the posts to see if some one else suggested this
but the best straight edge I have found for cutting down the long side of
sheet goods is another piece of sheet good. I have an eight strip from
another job but I most often use the second piece of ply, mostly, to act as
a straight edge. Then it is only up to your skill with a circular saw to
maintain the contact with the edge. I know that the factor edge is not
perfect but it is close enough for the cut you get from a circ saw. an
eight inch strip gets the clamps far enough away fro the motor housing to
get from hitting.
How about a narrow strip with cleats to hold it parallel to an edge?
The width would be the difference between the strip and the narow side of
your saw plate.
You would put the cleats up against a straight edge and then put on a few
clamps to hold it and keep it straight. Since you reference an edge and
don't try to mark anything, you should get repeatability.
Of course you will also repeat errors, so it's important to get the guide
strip right. You may be able to compensate for some taper by alternating
cuts from front and back of the sheet (good blade needed).
Wilson
"Phil Crow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I need to cut about 50 strips of 3/4 birch plywood at EXACTLY the
> width of 2 of said strips at 24" long. I don't have a table saw. The
> straightedge that I have (one of the ones you get at the
> borg--aluminum, 2 piece, 97" total length) bows in the middle by about
> 3/32" on the 8' cut, quite a bit less on the 4' cut. This is because
> I apply gentle pressure against the fence throughout the cut, and it
> consequently pushes the "fence" inward. Even more than that, though,
> I'm having trouble relocating the fence after every cut in a position
> that each cut is EXACTLY the same. I set my combination square at 7
> 11/32" (2 and a quarter for the strip of wood, 5 for the shoe of the
> saw, and 3/32 for the kerf) and set the fence off that, but I find
> that there's still a variance. Does anyone have any suggestions on
> how to minimize (or eliminate) this deviation?
>
> The reason I ask is that I'm making an end table with a top that has
> plywood strips oriented two at a time perpendicular to each other:
> ||--||--||--||--
>
> You get the idea.
>
> Thanks for the help,
>
> -Phil Crow
>
> p.s. That two and a quarter was for another piece of the table.
Thanks for the advice, and that there saw guide looks like a hell of a
good idea. So the problem of fence deflection is solved. But, is
there a way for me to make sure I get the same cut every time, or am I
just wanting too much from a circular saw? My goal here is to be able
to glue and brad nail all the pairs of plywood together, then glue up
all of the pairs into a panel. I realize the harder I work at the
repeatablity issue now, the less sanding I have to do later, and belt
sanding an eighth inch off of the table will not help the finished
product.
'Preciate it.
-Phil Crow