I have a 1950's Unisaw with the oval cutout in the cabinet. It came
with a new motor and a dead 'old' motor. I've had the old motor rewound
and bearings replaced, and am ready to install it.
[Side story: when I went to pick up the old motor, I paid and the
couter person rolled the motor out on a cart but said "want a minute,
Mr. Jones (forgot the real name) wants to talk to you. So the older guy
in the back who actually does the rewinding comes out--althogh he
recognized it as coming from a Unisaw, apparently my motor was unusual
enough that he wanted to see who had brought it in. He told me
appreciatively "they don't make them like that anymore" and "it should
last another fifty years now". Thought you guys would enjoy that.]
So I'm trying to put the old motor back on, and the pin won't go in.
When I got the saw, there was a bolt through the motor and carriage,
but I dutifully replaced it with the 'correct' Delta pin. I put the
motor down, and sure enough, although the pin is a snug fit in the
carriage, it's too small for the holes in the brackets on the motor.
I could try to find a smaller pin, but that would just be loose in the
carriage. I think the easiest 'fix' would be to drill the holes in the
motor brackets to fit the pin, but I thought I'd consult the wisdom of
rec.woodworking before removing metal I can't easily put back... Anyone
know if there's a difference between the pin diameter on the new versus
old Unisaws?
Also, my 'old' motor is missing the inspection caps and junction box
cover, so if anyone has a set they'd like to sell, please email me.
Thanks,
Heath
"[email protected]" wrote:
>
...
> So I'm trying to put the old motor back on, and the pin won't go in.
> When I got the saw, there was a bolt through the motor and carriage,
> but I dutifully replaced it with the 'correct' Delta pin. I put the
> motor down, and sure enough, although the pin is a snug fit in the
> carriage, it's too small for the holes in the brackets on the motor.
>
> I could try to find a smaller pin, but that would just be loose in the
> carriage. I think the easiest 'fix' would be to drill the holes in the
> motor brackets to fit the pin, but I thought I'd consult the wisdom of
> rec.woodworking before removing metal I can't easily put back... Anyone
> know if there's a difference between the pin diameter on the new versus
> old Unisaws?
...
Must be... :)
Mayhaps the motor wasn't the actual motor from the saw itself if the pin
fits the carriage but not the motor brackets?
Although, I suppose they <could> have had a two-sized pin...
Don't see a problem w/ the drill-out scenario assuming there will be
enough material left after you do so.
[email protected] wrote:
> I have a 1950's Unisaw with the oval cutout in the cabinet. It came
> with a new motor and a dead 'old' motor. I've had the old motor rewound
> and bearings replaced, and am ready to install it.
>
> [Side story: when I went to pick up the old motor, I paid and the
> couter person rolled the motor out on a cart but said "want a minute,
> Mr. Jones (forgot the real name) wants to talk to you. So the older guy
> in the back who actually does the rewinding comes out--althogh he
> recognized it as coming from a Unisaw, apparently my motor was unusual
> enough that he wanted to see who had brought it in. He told me
> appreciatively "they don't make them like that anymore" and "it should
> last another fifty years now". Thought you guys would enjoy that.]
>
> So I'm trying to put the old motor back on, and the pin won't go in.
> When I got the saw, there was a bolt through the motor and carriage,
> but I dutifully replaced it with the 'correct' Delta pin. I put the
> motor down, and sure enough, although the pin is a snug fit in the
> carriage, it's too small for the holes in the brackets on the motor.
>
> I could try to find a smaller pin, but that would just be loose in the
> carriage. I think the easiest 'fix' would be to drill the holes in the
> motor brackets to fit the pin, but I thought I'd consult the wisdom of
> rec.woodworking before removing metal I can't easily put back... Anyone
> know if there's a difference between the pin diameter on the new versus
> old Unisaws?
>
> Also, my 'old' motor is missing the inspection caps and junction box
> cover, so if anyone has a set they'd like to sell, please email me.
>
> Thanks,
> Heath
>
Mine's a 1948 and when I reconditioned and reassembled I remember
grunting to get the motor into the correct position to install the pin.
Are you sure you are trying to put the pin in the pin hole? I know
that sounds stupid, but I had to ask. One hole is for the pin, the
other for the bolt. The pin should be in the forward (towards the dust
door) position. Its puzzling since you had to pull the pin out to get
the motor and hanger out.
Before you waste time drilling, welding or whatever, call the sawcenter
and ask them what you'r doing wrong. They have sold/rebuilt hundreds of
Unisaws over the years and have a nice tutorial on their web page on how
to tear-down and re-assemble.
http://www.sawcenter.com
> I could try to find a smaller pin, but that would just be loose in the
> carriage. I think the easiest 'fix' would be to drill the holes in the
> motor brackets to fit the pin, but I thought I'd consult the wisdom of
> rec.woodworking before removing metal I can't easily put back...
I have no problem drilling it and if I screwed up I just weld another piece
and drill again.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a 1950's Unisaw with the oval cutout in the cabinet. It came
> with a new motor and a dead 'old' motor. I've had the old motor rewound
> and bearings replaced, and am ready to install it.
>
> [Side story: when I went to pick up the old motor, I paid and the
> couter person rolled the motor out on a cart but said "want a minute,
> Mr. Jones (forgot the real name) wants to talk to you. So the older guy
> in the back who actually does the rewinding comes out--althogh he
> recognized it as coming from a Unisaw, apparently my motor was unusual
> enough that he wanted to see who had brought it in. He told me
> appreciatively "they don't make them like that anymore" and "it should
> last another fifty years now". Thought you guys would enjoy that.]
>
That is what they told me when I had the bearings replaced on my
repulsion-induction motor. Well, of course they certainly don't. They told
me that my 1 hp repulsion-induction motor would outwork any 1 1/2 hp
capacitor start-induction run motor. Perhaps that is the case, but I will
never get the chance to try a test.
Jim