On Thursday, 14 July 2011 08:59:46 UTC+10, WW wrote:
> > He wound up waiting a day for the paint to harden and sanded it all
> > down and started over again on the finishing. The grain rose again
> > (!!!) but not as much. One more day to dry, then sand, then recoat.
> >snip
>=20
> I use lacquer high build sanding sealer on all types of wood before I pai=
nt=20
> it. Dries fast and sands smooth. Some times I do 2 coats and sanding. Fin=
ish=20
> is nice. WW
Amen to that. IMHO, any modern cheap plywood needs sanding sealer and/or n=
on-water based paint. Been a long time since I lsat saw plywood that won'=
t crumble in the presence of any humidity. Other than the one sold for mar=
ine use, which is also the most expensive.
On 7/13/11 10:55 PM, Noons wrote:
> On Thursday, 14 July 2011 08:59:46 UTC+10, WW wrote:
>
>>> He wound up waiting a day for the paint to harden and sanded it all
>>> down and started over again on the finishing. The grain rose again
>>> (!!!) but not as much. One more day to dry, then sand, then recoat.
>>> snip
>>
>> I use lacquer high build sanding sealer on all types of wood before I paint
>> it. Dries fast and sands smooth. Some times I do 2 coats and sanding. Finish
>> is nice. WW
>
> Amen to that. IMHO, any modern cheap plywood needs sanding sealer
> and/or non-water based paint. Been a long time since I lsat saw
> plywood that won't crumble in the presence of any humidity. Other
> than the one sold for marine use, which is also the most expensive.
Might be reason enough to buy the pre-finished stuff.
Could save some time on sealing it.
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