I am building a framed mirror for a bathroom that will be about 36" x
48". Think of a flat panel door with the mirror in place of the panel.
So the mirror will be surrounded by 2.5" rails and stiles made out of
cherry.
This will be pretty heavy. Any suggestions on how this might be
mounted flush on the wall? I'm momentarily stumped.
I suppose I could counter bore screws in the rails and stiles that
drive into wall studs and then plug the holes after mounting. I hate
that idea however.
Thanks.
Yes, you are right, the weight isn't too bad. I like the idea of using
a cleat. Either the screw/washer or wood cleat.
I have to make sure it has a reasonable chance it will stay up in a
moderate earthquake. Since the swarm of earthquakes last week, my wife
is making me strap up all furniture and pictures.
Thanks for the ideas.
http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/28-119-misc-hangers/2-hole-flat-keyhole-hanger--620064.aspx
QUICK AND EASY!
On 24 Jun 2005 12:03:11 -0700, "Jerry" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I am building a framed mirror for a bathroom that will be about 36" x
>48". Think of a flat panel door with the mirror in place of the panel.
> So the mirror will be surrounded by 2.5" rails and stiles made out of
>cherry.
>
>This will be pretty heavy. Any suggestions on how this might be
>mounted flush on the wall? I'm momentarily stumped.
>
>I suppose I could counter bore screws in the rails and stiles that
>drive into wall studs and then plug the holes after mounting. I hate
>that idea however.
>
>Thanks.
>
"TEF" <[email protected]> writes:
>The idea of the routing keyholes on the stiles is a good one, but how do you
>ensure that the keyholes line up with studs in the wall? It would seem that
>unless one crafted the mirror of a specific size so that the stiles
>coincided exactly with the existing wall studs, then the mirror would have
>to be supported by drywall only. Perhaps, I don't fully understand the
>keyhole thing.
>
Drywall anchors.
scott
"Jerry" <[email protected]> writes:
>Yes, you are right, the weight isn't too bad. I like the idea of using
>a cleat. Either the screw/washer or wood cleat.
>
>I have to make sure it has a reasonable chance it will stay up in a
>moderate earthquake. Since the swarm of earthquakes last week, my wife
>is making me strap up all furniture and pictures.
>
>Thanks for the ideas.
>
I did a similar mirror, albeit oak rather than cherry. I used
a keyhole bit and plunge router to make keyholes on the back of
the stiles and hung the mirror frame from those.
scott
I have about that same size mirror hanging in bathroom and I wouldn't
consider it extremely heavy.
It would seem to me that you could use your router to cut some slots on the
backside of the stiles and then drive a screw into the stud and then hang it
using the slots with a washer on the screw to give you the bite you need to
carry the weight.
Probably did a piss poor job describing it but I can picture it clearly in
my mind!
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"Jerry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am building a framed mirror for a bathroom that will be about 36" x
> 48". Think of a flat panel door with the mirror in place of the panel.
> So the mirror will be surrounded by 2.5" rails and stiles made out of
> cherry.
>
> This will be pretty heavy. Any suggestions on how this might be
> mounted flush on the wall? I'm momentarily stumped.
>
> I suppose I could counter bore screws in the rails and stiles that
> drive into wall studs and then plug the holes after mounting. I hate
> that idea however.
>
> Thanks.
>
The idea of the routing keyholes on the stiles is a good one, but how do you
ensure that the keyholes line up with studs in the wall? It would seem that
unless one crafted the mirror of a specific size so that the stiles
coincided exactly with the existing wall studs, then the mirror would have
to be supported by drywall only. Perhaps, I don't fully understand the
keyhole thing.
Recently, I made a bathroom mirror of similar size using maple (rather than
cherry). To hang the mirror, I fixed a steel bar from stile to stile across
the back. To ensure that the mirror hang close to the wall, I mortised the
bar (about 48" long x 1" wide x 1/8" thick) and screwed it into back of the
frame. To hang the mirror, I drove a row of pan head screws into the studs
on which the bar is rested. The screw heads hook to the bar and should you
need to adjust the mirror from side to side, it can be slid along the
screws.
"Jerry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Perfect. Think I try that. Thanks!
>
In article <[email protected]>,
Jerry <[email protected]> wrote:
>I am building a framed mirror for a bathroom that will be about 36" x
>48". Think of a flat panel door with the mirror in place of the panel.
> So the mirror will be surrounded by 2.5" rails and stiles made out of
>cherry.
>
>This will be pretty heavy. Any suggestions on how this might be
>mounted flush on the wall? I'm momentarily stumped.
Define "pretty heavy". You can get picture hangers rated for up to
100 lbs (i.e. 200 lbs a pair). I can't imagine this is going to weigh
more than that.
http://www.ooks.com/cart/viewitem.cfm?ItemID=50027&UserID=-75304447
> "TEF" <[email protected]> writes:
>>The idea of the routing keyholes on the stiles is a good one, but how do
>>you
>>ensure that the keyholes line up with studs in the wall? It would seem
>>that
>>unless one crafted the mirror of a specific size so that the stiles
>>coincided exactly with the existing wall studs, then the mirror would have
>>to be supported by drywall only. Perhaps, I don't fully understand the
>>keyhole thing.
Most houses have studs on 16" centers. You make the keyholes on 16" centers
also. Depending on the frame size, find the center and then cut them 8" out
from center. If the mirror is offset, just offset the keyholes, or use
drywall anchors made for that purpose.
on 6/24/2005 2:03 PM Jerry said the following:
> I am building a framed mirror for a bathroom that will be about 36" x
> 48". Think of a flat panel door with the mirror in place of the panel.
> So the mirror will be surrounded by 2.5" rails and stiles made out of
> cherry.
>
> This will be pretty heavy. Any suggestions on how this might be
> mounted flush on the wall? I'm momentarily stumped.
>
> I suppose I could counter bore screws in the rails and stiles that
> drive into wall studs and then plug the holes after mounting. I hate
> that idea however.
I have seen the equivalent of a French cleat, only in metal. Again, as
someone else pointed out, you could recess the frame to accomodate this
or just make part of the frame around the edge, a bit deeper, and hang
the mirror using this. When all is said and done the mirror and frame
would appear to be screwed right into the wall yet all it would take
would be a simple lifting motion to remove it from the French cleat and
take it down.
Other than that, I think you're going to be stuck with that idea you
hate.<g>