I am having problems jointing the face of ROUGH lumber on my newly
purchased power jointer. Specifically, I am experiencing about 2' of
snipe on the lead edge of the board I am jointing. This seems to occur
with all lumber I have attempted to joint. I have checked the setup of
the tables and blades and the machine setup seems okay. I have been
cutting off the snipe to this point. Suggestions on technique or
possibly something wrong with my setup would be greatly appreciated.
The machine seems relatively quiet and cutting is not difficult but I
have got hung up on the outfeed fence, meaning the board edge would not
continue through the cutters because it was hitting the outfeed fence
after the blades (setting at 1/16'). Blades are new with machine, would
they need sharpening?
"2b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am having problems jointing the face of ROUGH lumber on my newly
> purchased power jointer. Specifically, I am experiencing about 2' of
> snipe on the lead edge of the board I am jointing. This seems to occur
> with all lumber I have attempted to joint. I have checked the setup of
> the tables and blades and the machine setup seems okay. I have been
> cutting off the snipe to this point. Suggestions on technique or
> possibly something wrong with my setup would be greatly appreciated.
>
If by "snipe," you mean that the initial contact seems to cut off more wood,
probably have your outfeed table above the level of the knives. Surprised
you're not catching the lip of the table if they are. If the snipe is on
the trailing edge, the outfeed's low.
Speculating you may have boards you're trying to joint which have a bow in
them. Then the knives contacting the leading and trailing edges only on
the first pass or two is normal. To get best width from the board, joint
just the ends first, then the entire. The guys with the extra-long tables
may even encounter this.
That, feed pressure and location of pressure are about all there is to a
jointer.
"2b" <[email protected]> wrote in message ...
>I tried with less 'bite' but it seemed like it was not cutting at all.
>
What is your definition of "seems like"? Do you see cut marks? If so, it
is cutting and doing the job, but in smaller increments. In the scheme of
life, how bit a deal is taking four cuts at 1/64" that works versus 1/16"
that snipes?
2b wrote:
> I'll double check but when I received the machine I checked that
> outfeed was at blade height and beds were coparallel. Thanks,eh.
I don't know what method you are using to check these things (you didn't
say) but, if your stock is butting up against the outfeed table as it
passes through the blades, it isn't working.
er
--
email not valid
2b wrote:
> I tried with less 'bite' but it seemed like it was not cutting at all.
You might look for the manual of your jointer to see what they have to
say about alignment.
DAGS on
align jointer infeed outfeed
and poke through the results:
<URL:http://users.zoominternet.net/~frazer/align_jointer.shtml>
<URL:http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/article_1/article1.html>
<URL:http://www.toolnewz.com/0700v1i4/tuning.html>
<URL:http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/safety_haz/woodwork/planer.html>
Proper alignment of the tables doesn't have to be an intuitive
process--it's better to be certain. But for that you might need some
tools... a straightedge, a way to measure small distances. :)
er
--
email not valid
Too big of a bite.
1/16 is huge. Try 1/64.
It should take several passes to get from rough to smooth and flat. Jointing
is an iterative process. That is, it uses the existing surface as a
reference to how the cut surface should be. After the first pass, the
existing surface is close to flat, so the output of the second pass will be
better still.
2-3 light passes will do a good job of establishing a reference plane
If a board is particularly twisted, don't be surprised if you need a half
dozen passes to eliminate the low spots.
Steve
"2b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The machine seems relatively quiet and cutting is not difficult but I
> have got hung up on the outfeed fence, meaning the board edge would not
> continue through the cutters because it was hitting the outfeed fence
> after the blades (setting at 1/16'). Blades are new with machine, would
> they need sharpening?
>
--
NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth
If the stock is butting up against the outfeed table, then it's got to be
one of 2 things;
1 The outfeed table is higher than the blades, or
2 As someone else suggested, the infeed table is seriously out of plane,
tilted down toward the cutters.
Personally, I would go with the outfeed being too high. If the stock is
hitting it, then you have to lift it up to get it "on" the outfeed table,
and there is your snipe.
--
Nahmie
The only road to success is always under construction.
"2b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Sorry, outfeed table or bed.
>
2b wrote:
> The machine seems relatively quiet and cutting is not difficult but I
> have got hung up on the outfeed fence, meaning the board edge would not
> continue through the cutters because it was hitting the outfeed fence
> after the blades (setting at 1/16'). Blades are new with machine, would
> they need sharpening?
Eh, your outfeed table is too low, or the infeed table is canted into
the blades. The outfeed table needs to be at the same height as the
cutters, and the infeed table coparallel to the outfeed table. In which
case "I have checked the setup of the tables and blades and the machine
setup seems okay" is doubtful.
er
--
email not valid
If the board is hitting the outfeed table, the outfeed table is to high.
"2b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The machine seems relatively quiet and cutting is not difficult but I
> have got hung up on the outfeed fence, meaning the board edge would not
> continue through the cutters because it was hitting the outfeed fence
> after the blades (setting at 1/16'). Blades are new with machine, would
> they need sharpening?
>