Here's my problem(52 x 19 top). Wrapped 3/4" cherry ply with 7/8" x 2.5"
maple hardwood. Mitered corners, very tight and beautiful. decided to
"chamfer" the edge 8 degrees with my tablesaw. Built a tall fence, angled
the blade, thought everything was good to leave a 1/2" edge but "nicked"
into the plywood veneer at the junction of the ply and maple ( hope that
makes sense). So now for the whole perimeter where the ply meets the maple I
have a 3/16" sand through sort of effect with the cherry. The top is going
to be stained a medium brown color and i was thinking to create an inlay
"look" with a black stain line or something to hide/mask the
"sandthrough/sawthrough". Suggestions?
I agree rip it down again and reinstall the edging.
Or add a decorative banding of contrasting color routed into the joint
mcgyver wrote:
> Here's my problem(52 x 19 top). Wrapped 3/4" cherry ply with 7/8" x 2.5"
> maple hardwood. Mitered corners, very tight and beautiful. decided to
> "chamfer" the edge 8 degrees with my tablesaw. Built a tall fence, angled
> the blade, thought everything was good to leave a 1/2" edge but "nicked"
> into the plywood veneer at the junction of the ply and maple ( hope that
> makes sense). So now for the whole perimeter where the ply meets the maple I
> have a 3/16" sand through sort of effect with the cherry. The top is going
> to be stained a medium brown color and i was thinking to create an inlay
> "look" with a black stain line or something to hide/mask the
> "sandthrough/sawthrough". Suggestions?
>
>
Firstly, you will likely be flogged for staining cherry as it is
considered a sin by most in these parts.
1. I think the trimmed ply edge will likely be very dark compared to
the cherry face if you stain it. The underlayment will likely soak up
much more color.
2. Trim it down and start over. Either a smaller top or a wider maple
band.
3. Rabbit the top on 4 sides about 1/2" deep by 1" wide and lay down a
new flat piece of contrasting wood.
4. Same as 3 but use maple but have it hang out an additional 1/4 or
1/2 inch
Hint: If you add new banding, rather than sanding it flat to the ply,
which can risk a sand through of the adjoining veneer, use a scaper on
the banding and just carefully sneak up on the veneer and then lighly
sand it out for final flush.
On Feb 12, 6:43=A0pm, "mcgyver" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Here's my problem(52 x 19 top). =A0Wrapped 3/4" cherry ply with 7/8" x 2.5=
"
> maple hardwood. Mitered corners, very tight and beautiful. =A0decided to
> "chamfer" the edge 8 degrees with my tablesaw. =A0Built a tall fence, angl=
ed
> the blade, thought everything was good to leave a 1/2" edge but "nicked"
> into the plywood veneer at the junction of the ply and maple ( hope that
> makes sense). So now for the whole perimeter where the ply meets the maple=
I
> have a 3/16" sand through sort of effect with the cherry. The top is going=
> to be stained a medium brown color and i was thinking to create an inlay
> "look" with a black stain line or something to hide/mask the
> "sandthrough/sawthrough". =A0Suggestions?