After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the drywall
in the bathroom.
What is the best way to do this? My wife would like to get a sander she
could use for other things as well, like sanding tabletops for resurfacing.
Should we get a random orbital sander or some other kind? Would this be
good for drywall as well? What brands/models/features would be good? Going
to the home improvement stores there are many choices, and we're novices at
this.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Mark
Mark Driscol wrote:
> After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
> incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
> correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the drywall
> in the bathroom.
>
> What is the best way to do this? My wife would like to get a sander she
> could use for other things as well, like sanding tabletops for resurfacing.
> Should we get a random orbital sander or some other kind? Would this be
> good for drywall as well? What brands/models/features would be good? Going
> to the home improvement stores there are many choices, and we're novices at
> this.
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
I have used a ROS to sand drywall compound and it is overkill. need to
use slow speed and fine sandpaper or the paper on the drywall is gone in
flash. Drywall sanding screens are a big improvement over hand
sandpaper as they don't clog as easily and the job does go rather
quickly. If it is glue and wallpaper you are sanding down then a ROS
might be a little better but you still have to be very careful
BRuce
Morgans wrote:
>
> "chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]..
> >
> >
> > Im not sure what exactly you are sanding. Is it remains of
> > wallpaper backing? Are you sanding existing paint off ? or
> > is it just wallpaper paste remains?
> >
> > In any event, you are looking at sanding a large surface
> > area of crap that loves to clog sandpaper, especially when
> > it heats up under the electric sander.
> >
> > My experience with this type of stuff is to use a fairly
> > coarse grit (40 -60) to tear the stuff off, (if it is
> > backing) and then re sand with fine grit. If you are sanding
> > stuff that doesnt clog (like well hardened paint) then a
> > finer grit say 100-120 would do. The orbital sanders are the
> > best. The bigger the amperage and pad the better for large
> > areas. For tabletops etc, a smaller orbital is best. I have
> > a 5 in makita that was only $100 and have been using it for
> > years. I really like it, and have dropped it many times
> > without any damage. The Dewalt ones are pretty good too.
> >
> > I had some heavy backing from a vinyl floor to remove from
> > my kitchen . I have a pneumatic "bondo buster" with 40 grit
> > paper that ripped that stuff off in a few hours. The
> > electric orbital was useless for this. It just depends what
> > exactly you are sanding maybe you need to rent something.
> >
> > Drywall is not normally sanded with electric sanders because
> > the filler is really easy to sand.
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> > Chris
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 07:29:52 -0400, "Mark Driscol"
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > >After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
> > >incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
> > >correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the
> drywall
> > >in the bathroom.
> > >
> > >What is the best way to do this? My wife would like to get a sander she
> > >could use for other things as well, like sanding tabletops for
> resurfacing.
> > >Should we get a random orbital sander or some other kind? Would this be
> > >good for drywall as well? What brands/models/features would be good?
> Going
> > >to the home improvement stores there are many choices, and we're novices
> at
> > >this.
> > >
> > >Thanks in advance for any advice.
> > >
> > >Mark
>
> DO NOT sand sheetrock with an electric sander. They draw cooling air
> through the sander, and with it dust, which is powdered rock. It will
> destroy your bearings, quickly. Air powered is not so bad, as the air is
> not pulled through it. DAMHIKT.
> --
> Jim in NC
Use a damp sponge.
Hand sanding is really the only way to go since drywall mud requires such a
light touch. Seriously, this is how the pros do it. Get yourself a drywall
sander and a pole to put it on and some fine sanding screen and hit it very
lightly otherwise you'll be taking the mud off and the paper will show
through. Probably cost about twenty bucks. You might even have enough left
over to get the wife a sander.
Kevin
"Mark Driscol" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
> incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
> correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the
drywall
> in the bathroom.
>
> What is the best way to do this? My wife would like to get a sander she
> could use for other things as well, like sanding tabletops for
resurfacing.
> Should we get a random orbital sander or some other kind? Would this be
> good for drywall as well? What brands/models/features would be good?
Going
> to the home improvement stores there are many choices, and we're novices
at
> this.
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
Mark Driscol wrote:
> After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
> incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
> correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the drywall
> in the bathroom.
>
> What is the best way to do this? My wife would like to get a sander she
> could use for other things as well, like sanding tabletops for resurfacing.
> Should we get a random orbital sander or some other kind? Would this be
> good for drywall as well? What brands/models/features would be good? Going
> to the home improvement stores there are many choices, and we're novices at
> this.
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
A VS ROS at a slow speed with 150 grit should do the trick, but I would
do it by hand (unless I could borrow the PC wall sander from someone).
Be very careful to sand only to smoothness. If you oversand, the problem
isn't that you will sand through the paper layer, but you will make the
paper fuzzy. Paint WILL NOT hide this fuzz.
Regards,
Hank
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Bay Area Dave wrote:
> a 1/4 pad sander is a LOT easier to get FLAT seams with than a ROS...
>
BAD,
The OP is not sanding newly taped sheetrock, but is sanding sheetrock
from which wallpaper has been removed. The removal process usually
leaves glue residue and bits of crap on the surface. That is what the OP
is sanding, not the mud seams.
Regards,
Hank
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You an always knock down the big stuff and over it up with 3/8"
"Randy Chapman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> No worries about my ceiling; I can stand on the floor and scrape it -- 7.5
> feet :-(
>
> Sadly, though, this is the wall. Skim coat is out, we're not talking a
> little texture here, we're talking stuff that sticks out 1/4" in places!
> You've seen the ice cream ad on TV where guests are afraid of the wall --
> that's our place. I was hoping to avoid the wrecking bar and new rock,
but,
> alas :-(
>
> --randy
>
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Ceiling popcorn is removed by spraying it with water, letting it soften,
> > and then scraping it with a scraper attached to a pole so you do it
> > standing on the floor instead of ladder (unless you've got impossibly
> > high ceilings, in which case, my condolences...)
> >
> >
> > dave
> >
> > Charles Krug wrote:
> >
> > > On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 17:46:47 GMT, Randy Chapman
<[email protected]>
> wrote:
> > >
> > >>"Mark Driscol" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > >>news:[email protected]...
> > >>
> > >>>After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us
> some
> > >>>incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of
the
> > >>>correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the
> > >>
> > >>drywall
> > >>
> > >>>in the bathroom.
> > >>
> > >>Slightly OT, similar question: does the same answer apply when you
wish
> to
> > >>get rid of the crappy texture someone sprayed on, or is a RAS or
> (powered)
> > >>finish sander better for this?
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > Ceiling popcorn, scrape with a wide knife and respackle.
> > >
> > > Anything else is anyone's guess. I've had success skim-coating with
> > > slightly thinned lightweight drywall compound. You might wanna try
> > > painting over it and see if you don't mind the texture.
> > >
> > > And if all else fails, a wrecking bar and new rock.
> > >
> >
>
>
Bay Area Dave wrote:
> then he should be doing a skim coat.
>
> dave
>
> Henry St.Pierre wrote:
>
>> Bay Area Dave wrote:
>>
>>> a 1/4 pad sander is a LOT easier to get FLAT seams with than a ROS...
>>>
>> BAD,
>> The OP is not sanding newly taped sheetrock, but is sanding sheetrock
>> from which wallpaper has been removed. The removal process usually
>> leaves glue residue and bits of crap on the surface. That is what the
>> OP is sanding, not the mud seams.
>> Regards,
>> Hank
>>
>>
>>
>> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
>> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
>> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
>
>
Sorry Dave, I was wrong about what the OP did to the wall. Seems like he
primed it. How to fix? Don't know without seeing it, but a skim coat
would be a bitch without a smooth surface to start with. Probably would
still sand.
Hank
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-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
a 1/4 pad sander is a LOT easier to get FLAT seams with than a ROS...
Henry St.Pierre wrote:
> Mark Driscol wrote:
>
>> After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
>> incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
>> correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the
>> drywall
>> in the bathroom.
>>
>> What is the best way to do this? My wife would like to get a sander she
>> could use for other things as well, like sanding tabletops for
>> resurfacing.
>> Should we get a random orbital sander or some other kind? Would this be
>> good for drywall as well? What brands/models/features would be good?
>> Going
>> to the home improvement stores there are many choices, and we're
>> novices at
>> this.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any advice.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>>
> A VS ROS at a slow speed with 150 grit should do the trick, but I would
> do it by hand (unless I could borrow the PC wall sander from someone).
> Be very careful to sand only to smoothness. If you oversand, the problem
> isn't that you will sand through the paper layer, but you will make the
> paper fuzzy. Paint WILL NOT hide this fuzz.
> Regards,
> Hank
>
>
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
Ceiling popcorn is removed by spraying it with water, letting it soften,
and then scraping it with a scraper attached to a pole so you do it
standing on the floor instead of ladder (unless you've got impossibly
high ceilings, in which case, my condolences...)
dave
Charles Krug wrote:
> On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 17:46:47 GMT, Randy Chapman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>"Mark Driscol" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
>>>incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
>>>correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the
>>
>>drywall
>>
>>>in the bathroom.
>>
>>Slightly OT, similar question: does the same answer apply when you wish to
>>get rid of the crappy texture someone sprayed on, or is a RAS or (powered)
>>finish sander better for this?
>>
>
>
> Ceiling popcorn, scrape with a wide knife and respackle.
>
> Anything else is anyone's guess. I've had success skim-coating with
> slightly thinned lightweight drywall compound. You might wanna try
> painting over it and see if you don't mind the texture.
>
> And if all else fails, a wrecking bar and new rock.
>
In news:[email protected],
Denis <[email protected]> typed:
> I once used a palm sander and came out of a closed room looking like a
> ghost as I was completely covered by dust. My suggestion >>> DO NOT
> use a power tool to do drywall sanding!
>
> If you use a powered tool to sand the drywall , you will have small
> particles blown all over the place. NOTE>>> I am assuming that there
> are repairs that have been done as well... Either way, if there is any
> repairs that have been done or there are seams that have been done,
> there will be the capability to get lots of dried drywall mud
> converted into dust.
>
> The best tool I have found is something that looks like a sanding
> block but with material that looks like the stuff from your screen
> door on it. It scrapes well, and does not blow the drywall dust
> everywhere... It just sort of falls straight down. There may be
> better ways but this is the one I found at the BORG. <Home Depot>
> It is also under ten dollars! Wear a dust mask and safety glasses as
> the dust is rather invasive...
>
>
I bought one of these that had a dust collector port. I hooked it up to my
little shop vac and it caught most of the dust. Of course, one should still
wear goggles and a mask. Oh, and ear plugs, my little Genie shop vac makes
a big vac noise.
drywall can be sanded (well actually the "mud") with a pole sander and
mesh. HOWEVER, IF you have a cool shop vac like a Fein, with a 1 micron
filter or HEPA filter option, then you can hook it up to a powered
sander like a 1/4 pad sander and get no cloud of dust in the room! I
did exactly that when finishing the walls of my shop. I first sanded
with a hand held pad; made on hell of a mess--huge clouds of dust. I
rigged up an adapter to my PC 1/4 pad sander so that I could use my Fein
vac. Voila! Sanding is easier, faster, and most importantly, DUST FREE.
Very little time and pressure is required to get a flat seam. You can
use either drywall sanding mesh, or drywall sandpaper. I like the mesh
for initial sanding--it is aggressive.
dave
Mark Driscol wrote:
> After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
> incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
> correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the drywall
> in the bathroom.
>
> What is the best way to do this? My wife would like to get a sander she
> could use for other things as well, like sanding tabletops for resurfacing.
> Should we get a random orbital sander or some other kind? Would this be
> good for drywall as well? What brands/models/features would be good? Going
> to the home improvement stores there are many choices, and we're novices at
> this.
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
Mark Driscol wrote...
> After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
> incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
> correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the drywall
> in the bathroom.
Are they telling you to sand the wallpaper glue down? That doesn't sound
like it will work very well. The glue just doesn't sand that well, and
you really don't want to sand the drywall itself at all. You'll get
fuzzies that no amount of subsequent sanding will remove.
Do you want a texture or a smooth wall? For a smooth wall, I'd put on a
thin coat (called a "putty coat") of mud and sand it smooth. A couple
hours max applying the putty coat, with an hour or less sanding the next
morning. For a textured wall, it's even easier, since the texture will
help hide any residual glue. Just apply the mud in the desired pattern,
and again, sand in the morning.
Jim
Mark Driscol wrote:
> After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
> incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
> correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the drywall
> in the bathroom.
Let's back up. Can you please describe the problem you are trying to
fix? If you have just removed wall paper and the wall is uneven you do
not want to sand dry wall. Sanding the drywall will damage it. ONe would
only sand joint compound once applied to the joints and nail/screw
holes. If your walls are uneven you want to apply a skim coat. Basically
a thined down jiont compound that is painted on.
jw
No worries about my ceiling; I can stand on the floor and scrape it -- 7.5
feet :-(
Sadly, though, this is the wall. Skim coat is out, we're not talking a
little texture here, we're talking stuff that sticks out 1/4" in places!
You've seen the ice cream ad on TV where guests are afraid of the wall --
that's our place. I was hoping to avoid the wrecking bar and new rock, but,
alas :-(
--randy
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ceiling popcorn is removed by spraying it with water, letting it soften,
> and then scraping it with a scraper attached to a pole so you do it
> standing on the floor instead of ladder (unless you've got impossibly
> high ceilings, in which case, my condolences...)
>
>
> dave
>
> Charles Krug wrote:
>
> > On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 17:46:47 GMT, Randy Chapman <[email protected]>
wrote:
> >
> >>"Mark Driscol" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >>news:[email protected]...
> >>
> >>>After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us
some
> >>>incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
> >>>correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the
> >>
> >>drywall
> >>
> >>>in the bathroom.
> >>
> >>Slightly OT, similar question: does the same answer apply when you wish
to
> >>get rid of the crappy texture someone sprayed on, or is a RAS or
(powered)
> >>finish sander better for this?
> >>
> >
> >
> > Ceiling popcorn, scrape with a wide knife and respackle.
> >
> > Anything else is anyone's guess. I've had success skim-coating with
> > slightly thinned lightweight drywall compound. You might wanna try
> > painting over it and see if you don't mind the texture.
> >
> > And if all else fails, a wrecking bar and new rock.
> >
>
A sponge and warm water will work great for this, just if it's wallpaper
just wet it down and wait until it softens up, if it's joint compound it
will sand quickly as you rub it is a circular motion. I use the 9" x 4 3/4 x
1 1/2 size sponge.
"Mark Driscol" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
> incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
> correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the
drywall
> in the bathroom.
>
> What is the best way to do this? My wife would like to get a sander she
> could use for other things as well, like sanding tabletops for
resurfacing.
> Should we get a random orbital sander or some other kind? Would this be
> good for drywall as well? What brands/models/features would be good?
Going
> to the home improvement stores there are many choices, and we're novices
at
> this.
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
Mark Driscol wrote:
> ...sand the drywall in the bathroom. What is the best way to do this? My
> wife would like to get a sander she could use for other things as well,
> like sanding tabletops for resurfacing. Should we get a random orbital
> Recommendations for Flat Finish Over Paint? sander or some other kind?
> Would this be good for drywall as well? What brands/models/features
> would be good? Going to the home improvement stores there are many
> choices, and we're novices at this.
Drywall is basically big plaster sheets with a thin paper coating, and more
plaster (i.e. joint compound, aka "mud") applied in and over the joints
between the big sheets. So, as others have already said, you want a light
touch, otherwise you'll go right through the paper coating and in to the
plaster. My guess is that what the paint store is telling you to do is to
sand off any residual glue and bits left over from the wallpaper you
removed, and level out the surface before painting. I think a random
orbital sander might be too heavy-handed for this, although I admit I
haven't tried it myself. If you do go this route, I'd recommend getting a
smallish one, and starting out slowly on a small area to find out if you're
tearing up the drywall before going to town with it.
I recently discovered a shop-vac drywall sanding attachment. This thing is
great. It's basically just a rectangular plastic do-hickey(tm) that
attaches to the end of your shop vac hose. Over that, you attach an
abrasive sanding screen/mesh. You then hand sand with it, as you would
with sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block. However, because it's
attached to your shop vac, you get virtually *no* dust. I was amazed at
how well it worked. My SWMBO was extremely paranoid about dust when I
drywalled her office, since she had had a contractor pretty much cover her
mom's house with dust while doing drywall years ago. She practically made
me move everything in our house in to storage and seal off the room before
she would let me sand the drywall joints on this one wall. =-) Well, there
was so little dust with this thing, that she was certain that I hadn't
actually sanded it, but used some sort of black magic to put the drywall up
with smooth joints in the first place. I didn't need to clean up any dust
after I was done, really, it worked that well. Highly recommended, at
least if you're sanding the joint compound.
(Later that day, while trying to empty the shop vac in to the trash, I
managed to knock it over, thus filling my workshop with the aforementioned
dust, but that's a whole 'nother story.) ;-)
- Jeff
--
==========================================================================
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==========================================================================
"Mark Driscol" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us
> some incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part
> of the correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to
> sand the drywall in the bathroom.
You've gotten some good inputs on sanding, but are you sure
(especially if the paint store has already given you wrong
directions once) that you should be sanding? You may want
to describe your situation more, and get additional advice.
FWIW, when I took wallpaper off, I skim-coated the entire
wall with joint compound, then sanded & painted, to cover
damage to the paper surface of the drywall.
John
On 16 Oct 2003, Bay Area Dave sez:
> then he should be doing a skim coat.
>
> dave
>
> Henry St.Pierre wrote:
>
>> Bay Area Dave wrote:
>>
>>> a 1/4 pad sander is a LOT easier to get FLAT seams with than a
>>> ROS...
>>>
>> BAD,
>> The OP is not sanding newly taped sheetrock, but is sanding
>> sheetrock
>> from which wallpaper has been removed. The removal process usually
>> leaves glue residue and bits of crap on the surface. That is what the
>> OP is sanding, not the mud seams.
BAD advice, as usual. Only a person with experience and skill can
lay a thick enough skim coat on a surface with raised bits of wallpaper,
glue, nubbits of texture, or whatever, without leaving more of a mess than
he started with. Where there once was a nubbit, there will be a long
ridge. The float will pick up detritus from the wall, and redistribute it,
probably contaminating the bucket of mud in the process.
I have been restoring plaster and sheetrock walls for many years, and
I don't touch the mud bucket until the walls are free of debris and nubs.
Anything else is just making more work.
Scott
"Mark Driscol" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us
> some incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part
> of the correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to
> sand the drywall in the bathroom.
>
What material is being removed? Did you apply anything after you removed
the wallpaper?
NJBrad
"Mark Driscol" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
> incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
> correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the
drywall
> in the bathroom.
Slightly OT, similar question: does the same answer apply when you wish to
get rid of the crappy texture someone sprayed on, or is a RAS or (powered)
finish sander better for this?
--randy
This is a small palm sander and it has holes on the face fro teh dust
to go elsewhere, but no apcific spot for a vaccum attachment. OTOH, I
don't have a shop let alone a shop vac... sigh...
All my work gets done in the downstairs suite in the kitchen. sucks
to be me! I don't have room for any more tools than I have and here I
am going to the Wood Hobby show tomorrow and Sunday! <grin>
On Fri, 17 Oct 2003 00:24:27 GMT, Nova <[email protected]>
wrote:
>"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." wrote:
>
>> Next time, hook the sander up to a vac equipped with a drywall bag or
>> HEPA filter. You won't even know you were sanding.
>
>That, of course, is if you remember to put the filter back in.
>
>DAMHIKT
DAGS for alt.home.repair as it's discussed often it seems.
On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 07:29:52 -0400, "Mark Driscol" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
>incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
>correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the drywall
>in the bathroom.
Im not sure what exactly you are sanding. Is it remains of
wallpaper backing? Are you sanding existing paint off ? or
is it just wallpaper paste remains?
In any event, you are looking at sanding a large surface
area of crap that loves to clog sandpaper, especially when
it heats up under the electric sander.
My experience with this type of stuff is to use a fairly
coarse grit (40 -60) to tear the stuff off, (if it is
backing) and then re sand with fine grit. If you are sanding
stuff that doesnt clog (like well hardened paint) then a
finer grit say 100-120 would do. The orbital sanders are the
best. The bigger the amperage and pad the better for large
areas. For tabletops etc, a smaller orbital is best. I have
a 5 in makita that was only $100 and have been using it for
years. I really like it, and have dropped it many times
without any damage. The Dewalt ones are pretty good too.
I had some heavy backing from a vinyl floor to remove from
my kitchen . I have a pneumatic "bondo buster" with 40 grit
paper that ripped that stuff off in a few hours. The
electric orbital was useless for this. It just depends what
exactly you are sanding maybe you need to rent something.
Drywall is not normally sanded with electric sanders because
the filler is really easy to sand.
Hope this helps.
Chris
On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 07:29:52 -0400, "Mark Driscol"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
>incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
>correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the drywall
>in the bathroom.
>
>What is the best way to do this? My wife would like to get a sander she
>could use for other things as well, like sanding tabletops for resurfacing.
>Should we get a random orbital sander or some other kind? Would this be
>good for drywall as well? What brands/models/features would be good? Going
>to the home improvement stores there are many choices, and we're novices at
>this.
>
>Thanks in advance for any advice.
>
>Mark
>
>
To e-mail me, remove all of the sevens from my address.
Chris
John, I did precisely what you told the OP to one of my bedroom walls
that had faded wallpaper. Came out great. Nothing like skim coating
for renewing a wall surface!
dave
John McCoy wrote:
> "Mark Driscol" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>
>>After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us
>>some incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part
>>of the correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to
>>sand the drywall in the bathroom.
>
>
> You've gotten some good inputs on sanding, but are you sure
> (especially if the paint store has already given you wrong
> directions once) that you should be sanding? You may want
> to describe your situation more, and get additional advice.
>
> FWIW, when I took wallpaper off, I skim-coated the entire
> wall with joint compound, then sanded & painted, to cover
> damage to the paper surface of the drywall.
>
> John
Float the wall with a "skim coat". It might take a couple of coats, but
it isn't too hard to do.
dave
Randy Chapman wrote:
> "Mark Driscol" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
>>incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
>>correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the
>
> drywall
>
>>in the bathroom.
>
>
> Slightly OT, similar question: does the same answer apply when you wish to
> get rid of the crappy texture someone sprayed on, or is a RAS or (powered)
> finish sander better for this?
>
> --randy
>
>
On Thu, 16 Oct 2003 05:26:32 GMT, Gary Harmon
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I don't know what you ran into or what the paint guy tols you wrong,
>but this is what I do.
>Having done this several times myself. Remove the wallpaper then wash
>down the walls with a wet sponge to remove as much of the old glue as
>you can.
Better yet, wet the sponge with DIF, diluted as per the instructions.
DIF is a paste cutting enzyme, available at any decent paint store or
hardware store.
Barry
On Thu, 16 Oct 2003 12:50:18 GMT, Denis
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I once used a palm sander and came out of a closed room looking like a
>ghost as I was completely covered by dust. My suggestion >>> DO NOT
>use a power tool to do drywall sanding!
Next time, hook the sander up to a vac equipped with a drywall bag or
HEPA filter. You won't even know you were sanding.
Barry
On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 07:29:52 -0400, "Mark Driscol" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
>incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
>correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the drywall
>in the bathroom.
>
>What is the best way to do this? My wife would like to get a sander she
>could use for other things as well, like sanding tabletops for resurfacing.
>Should we get a random orbital sander or some other kind? Would this be
>good for drywall as well? What brands/models/features would be good? Going
>to the home improvement stores there are many choices, and we're novices at
>this.
>
>Thanks in advance for any advice.
>
>Mark
>
>
Mark,
I don't know what you ran into or what the paint guy tols you wrong,
but this is what I do.
Having done this several times myself. Remove the wallpaper then wash
down the walls with a wet sponge to remove as much of the old glue as
you can. Then fill in any nicks, nail holes or bad joints with joint
compound thinned with water until you have a soft butter consistency.
Sand your patched areas smooth then apply a primer over the whole
wall. Any old glue still on the wall will leave a rough spot you can
feel with your hands. After the primer has set up good you can lightly
hit the rough spots with a mesh 220 grit sand paper and smooth those
areas up. Then reprime and paint.
Gary
then he should be doing a skim coat.
dave
Henry St.Pierre wrote:
> Bay Area Dave wrote:
>
>> a 1/4 pad sander is a LOT easier to get FLAT seams with than a ROS...
>>
> BAD,
> The OP is not sanding newly taped sheetrock, but is sanding sheetrock
> from which wallpaper has been removed. The removal process usually
> leaves glue residue and bits of crap on the surface. That is what the OP
> is sanding, not the mud seams.
> Regards,
> Hank
>
>
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
I once used a palm sander and came out of a closed room looking like a
ghost as I was completely covered by dust. My suggestion >>> DO NOT
use a power tool to do drywall sanding!
If you use a powered tool to sand the drywall , you will have small
particles blown all over the place. NOTE>>> I am assuming that there
are repairs that have been done as well... Either way, if there is any
repairs that have been done or there are seams that have been done,
there will be the capability to get lots of dried drywall mud
converted into dust.
The best tool I have found is something that looks like a sanding
block but with material that looks like the stuff from your screen
door on it. It scrapes well, and does not blow the drywall dust
everywhere... It just sort of falls straight down. There may be
better ways but this is the one I found at the BORG. <Home Depot>
It is also under ten dollars! Wear a dust mask and safety glasses as
the dust is rather invasive...
On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 07:29:52 -0400, "Mark Driscol" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
>incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
>correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the drywall
>in the bathroom.
>
>What is the best way to do this? My wife would like to get a sander she
>could use for other things as well, like sanding tabletops for resurfacing.
>Should we get a random orbital sander or some other kind? Would this be
>good for drywall as well? What brands/models/features would be good? Going
>to the home improvement stores there are many choices, and we're novices at
>this.
>
>Thanks in advance for any advice.
>
>Mark
>
>
On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 07:29:52 -0400, "Mark Driscol" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>What is the best way to do this? My wife would like to get a sander she
>could use for other things as well, like sanding tabletops for resurfacing.
>Should we get a random orbital sander or some other kind?
I like using my ROS for occasional drywall sanding. Why? I connect
it to my HEPA equipped Shop Vac, which makes for VERY clean sanding.
Barry
On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 17:46:47 GMT, Randy Chapman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> "Mark Driscol" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
>> incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
>> correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the
> drywall
>> in the bathroom.
>
> Slightly OT, similar question: does the same answer apply when you wish to
> get rid of the crappy texture someone sprayed on, or is a RAS or (powered)
> finish sander better for this?
>
Ceiling popcorn, scrape with a wide knife and respackle.
Anything else is anyone's guess. I've had success skim-coating with
slightly thinned lightweight drywall compound. You might wanna try
painting over it and see if you don't mind the texture.
And if all else fails, a wrecking bar and new rock.
"Jeff Morris" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> I recently discovered a shop-vac drywall sanding attachment. This thing
is
> great. It's basically just a rectangular plastic do-hickey(tm) that
> attaches to the end of your shop vac hose. Over that, you attach an
> abrasive sanding screen/mesh. You then hand sand with it, as you would
> with sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block. However, because it's
> attached to your shop vac, you get virtually *no* dust. I was amazed at
> how well it worked.
==================================================
I second that. I had a small job to do that was dust sensitive and bought
one. An added advantage is that the amount of suction you use, will control
how much pressure is applied to the wall.
--
Jim in NC
"chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Im not sure what exactly you are sanding. Is it remains of
> wallpaper backing? Are you sanding existing paint off ? or
> is it just wallpaper paste remains?
>
> In any event, you are looking at sanding a large surface
> area of crap that loves to clog sandpaper, especially when
> it heats up under the electric sander.
>
> My experience with this type of stuff is to use a fairly
> coarse grit (40 -60) to tear the stuff off, (if it is
> backing) and then re sand with fine grit. If you are sanding
> stuff that doesnt clog (like well hardened paint) then a
> finer grit say 100-120 would do. The orbital sanders are the
> best. The bigger the amperage and pad the better for large
> areas. For tabletops etc, a smaller orbital is best. I have
> a 5 in makita that was only $100 and have been using it for
> years. I really like it, and have dropped it many times
> without any damage. The Dewalt ones are pretty good too.
>
> I had some heavy backing from a vinyl floor to remove from
> my kitchen . I have a pneumatic "bondo buster" with 40 grit
> paper that ripped that stuff off in a few hours. The
> electric orbital was useless for this. It just depends what
> exactly you are sanding maybe you need to rent something.
>
> Drywall is not normally sanded with electric sanders because
> the filler is really easy to sand.
>
> Hope this helps.
> Chris
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 07:29:52 -0400, "Mark Driscol"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
> >incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
> >correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the
drywall
> >in the bathroom.
> >
> >What is the best way to do this? My wife would like to get a sander she
> >could use for other things as well, like sanding tabletops for
resurfacing.
> >Should we get a random orbital sander or some other kind? Would this be
> >good for drywall as well? What brands/models/features would be good?
Going
> >to the home improvement stores there are many choices, and we're novices
at
> >this.
> >
> >Thanks in advance for any advice.
> >
> >Mark
DO NOT sand sheetrock with an electric sander. They draw cooling air
through the sander, and with it dust, which is powdered rock. It will
destroy your bearings, quickly. Air powered is not so bad, as the air is
not pulled through it. DAMHIKT.
--
Jim in NC