BH

Brian Henderson

25/03/2009 8:07 PM

Window Glazing

I know this isn't really the right newsgroup for this, but hey, I'll ask
anyhow. I was going to replace a cracked window on one side of my
house, the side that gets the most direct sunlight, and I noticed that a
lot of the window glazing has started to crack. While I'm not really
looking forward to removing and re-glazing a dozen windows, especially
since a lot of the windows have 7-9 individual lights, I was wondering
if there was an easier way. I seem to remember somewhere that there was
a PVC product that could be cut to size and glued and/or bradded into
place that would resist weathering and baking, plus it would make it a
lot easier to replace windows if need be by just removing the molding
and then replacing it.

Has anyone had any experience with this kind of thing and/or know of
good suppliers? How does it paint? I haven't looked yet, I thought I'd
see if anyone has used it before I went checking out costs, etc. I'd
need a lot of 3/8" triangular stock in white.

Thanks a ton.


This topic has 4 replies

BH

Brian Henderson

in reply to Brian Henderson on 25/03/2009 8:07 PM

25/03/2009 10:29 PM

Lew Hodgett wrote:

> Biggest part of the job was removing the broken glass and old putty to
> prepare window for new glass.

Replacing the glass isn't a big deal, although since I'm working with
restoration glass, it's a bit of a pain and expense.

> One you get the hang of it, reglazing a window pane is a piece of
> cake.

Never said it wasn't, I've done it plenty of times before, but when
you're talking about scraping down a dozen windows and probably close to
60 individual lights, that's when it becomes a pain.

> Trying to fit a plastic triangular piece into a sash, then having to
> glue it in place will not only double the work, but also not provide
> as good a seal just glazing the window pane into the sash.

Since the glass is all set in a bed of silicone, it's already sealed in
place, there's no air exchange with the outside, this is being done for
purely cosmetic purposes. I don't want to have to go back every couple
of years and re-do it over. Besides, it's not especially difficult to
miter corners, we do it all the time for picture frames, etc.

LH

"Lew Hodgett"

in reply to Brian Henderson on 25/03/2009 8:07 PM

25/03/2009 10:49 PM

"Brian Henderson" wrote:

> Never said it wasn't, I've done it plenty of times before, but when
> you're talking about scraping down a dozen windows and probably
> close to 60 individual lights, that's when it becomes a pain.

Did you perhaps see a "This Old House" episode where they were doing
exactly what it sounds like you are facing?

They used a Fein Multitool to clear out all the old glazing which sure
eliminated a lot of the mess.

Why use silicone?

There are so-------------------o many better sealants out there at
relatively the same cost.

Lew

Lr

"Leon"

in reply to Brian Henderson on 25/03/2009 8:07 PM

26/03/2009 12:17 PM


"Brian Henderson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I know this isn't really the right newsgroup for this, but hey, I'll ask
>anyhow. I was going to replace a cracked window on one side of my house,
>the side that gets the most direct sunlight, and I noticed that a lot of
>the window glazing has started to crack. While I'm not really looking
>forward to removing and re-glazing a dozen windows, especially since a lot
>of the windows have 7-9 individual lights, I was wondering if there was an
>easier way. I seem to remember somewhere that there was a PVC product that
>could be cut to size and glued and/or bradded into place that would resist
>weathering and baking, plus it would make it a lot easier to replace
>windows if need be by just removing the molding and then replacing it.
>
> Has anyone had any experience with this kind of thing and/or know of good
> suppliers? How does it paint? I haven't looked yet, I thought I'd see if
> anyone has used it before I went checking out costs, etc. I'd need a lot
> of 3/8" triangular stock in white.
>
> Thanks a ton.

IIRC the plastic/PCV that you are speaking about is used on aluminum
windows, it snaps in place. If you have wooden windows I think you are
going to have to put the putty/glazing back in.

LH

"Lew Hodgett"

in reply to Brian Henderson on 25/03/2009 8:07 PM

25/03/2009 9:44 PM

"Brian Henderson" wrote:

>I know this isn't really the right newsgroup for this, but hey, I'll
>ask anyhow. I was going to replace a cracked window on one side of
>my house, the side that gets the most direct sunlight, and I noticed
>that a lot of the window glazing has started to crack. While I'm not
>really looking forward to removing and re-glazing a dozen windows,
>especially since a lot of the windows have 7-9 individual lights, I
>was wondering if there was an easier way.
<snip>

Worked in a hardware while I was in high school.

One of my jobs was to replace broken window panes in windows customers
brought in for repair.

First time I was given this job, had brown pants before I was done,
but you learn.

It was a learning experience for a 16 year old kid, but I survived..

Biggest part of the job was removing the broken glass and old putty to
prepare window for new glass.

One you get the hang of it, reglazing a window pane is a piece of
cake.

It is a skill that requires time to acquire, but is not difficult.

Today, I would not use glazers putty, but rather something like 3M5200
or 3M4200 which is easier to remove later, if necessary.

Trying to fit a plastic triangular piece into a sash, then having to
glue it in place will not only double the work, but also not provide
as good a seal just glazing the window pane into the sash.

YMMV.

Lew


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