I have two 1"x1"x27" pieces of oak. I needed to cut 3/8" dados in them,
about the middle, to accept 3/8" dowels flush. I suppose a square bottom
would be okay, but I had a round bottom in my mind.
I stuck a 3/8" straight bit in my router table and pressed the side of the
piece into it. Because it was not quite long enough, I did one part, and
then flipped it over than did the rest. The first 1/4" was fine but after
that it got very hairy. It was not a safe process at all; the router was
very eager to grab the wood and throw it. Slowing the router way down
helped, but not enough.
How could it be done properly; besides a 3/8" file?
I suppose I could have drilled a hole in the wood and removed the balance
with a file. Any other ideas?
On Tue, 22 Nov 2005 03:57:29 GMT, "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"DonkeyHody" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> After re-reading your post, I finally came to understand what you
>> meant. I got it wrong both times before. How about a good, solid stop
>> clamped to the right end of the fence to be sure the router couldn't
>> take the piece away from you? Place the end of your stick against the
>> stop and then rotate the piece sideways into the bit.
>>
>Yes, that would have helped a great deal. I didn't do it because it would
>have required 8 setting; 2 pieces x 2 dados, x top/bottom.
>Instead of rushing into, like I usually do, I could have take a little time
>to lay it out properly so that there were only two distances.
>
ok, this is probably a stupid question, but wouldn't this be easier on the table
saw?
On either the saw or router, feather boards came save life, limb and underwear..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
If I understand you right, you needed a dado across each piece at about
the middle. I would clamp the pieces to the miter square and make
several light cuts, raising the bit each time.
Or maybe you needed a dado lengthwise down the middle of each piece.
In that case, I would set up the router fence at the proper distance,
then clamp another fence down parallel to it so the piece is trapped
between them and can't pull away from either fence. Then make several
light cuts raising the bit each time.
DonkeyHody
"Even an old blind hog finds an acorn every now and then."
After re-reading your post, I finally came to understand what you
meant. I got it wrong both times before. How about a good, solid stop
clamped to the right end of the fence to be sure the router couldn't
take the piece away from you? Place the end of your stick against the
stop and then rotate the piece sideways into the bit.
DonkeyHody
"Sometimes the old blind hog goes hungry."
"Buddy Matlosz" wrote in message
> > Never forget, the most important tool in the shop is the thinking chair.
> >
> > Lew
> >
> That's not in the shop, it's in the bathroom.
Around here its called the throne, it's in the library, and it's where I sit
to decide your fate ... you just better hope everything comes out alright.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/05
Toller wrote:
> I have two 1"x1"x27" pieces of oak. I needed to cut 3/8" dados in them,
> about the middle, to accept 3/8" dowels flush. I suppose a square bottom
> would be okay, but I had a round bottom in my mind.
>
> I stuck a 3/8" straight bit in my router table and pressed the side of the
> piece into it. Because it was not quite long enough, I did one part, and
> then flipped it over than did the rest. The first 1/4" was fine but after
> that it got very hairy. It was not a safe process at all; the router was
> very eager to grab the wood and throw it. Slowing the router way down
> helped, but not enough.
> How could it be done properly; besides a 3/8" file?
>
> I suppose I could have drilled a hole in the wood and removed the balance
> with a file. Any other ideas?
>
>
Use a 3/8" round nose (core box) router bit:
http://www.woodtechtooling.com/Whiteside/WhitesideCarbideTippedRouterBits.html
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
(Remove -SPAM- to send email)
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Toller wrote:
>
>
> > Yes, that would have helped a great deal. I didn't do it because it
would
> > have required 8 setting; 2 pieces x 2 dados, x top/bottom.
> > Instead of rushing into, like I usually do, I could have take a little
time
> > to lay it out properly so that there were only two distances.
>
> Never forget, the most important tool in the shop is the thinking chair.
>
> Lew
>
That's not in the shop, it's in the bathroom.
B.
"DonkeyHody" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> After re-reading your post, I finally came to understand what you
> meant. I got it wrong both times before. How about a good, solid stop
> clamped to the right end of the fence to be sure the router couldn't
> take the piece away from you? Place the end of your stick against the
> stop and then rotate the piece sideways into the bit.
>
Yes, that would have helped a great deal. I didn't do it because it would
have required 8 setting; 2 pieces x 2 dados, x top/bottom.
Instead of rushing into, like I usually do, I could have take a little time
to lay it out properly so that there were only two distances.
Toller <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have two 1"x1"x27" pieces of oak. I needed to cut 3/8" dados in
> them, about the middle, to accept 3/8" dowels flush. I suppose a
> square bottom would be okay, but I had a round bottom in my mind.
>
> I stuck a 3/8" straight bit in my router table and pressed the
> side of the piece into it. Because it was not quite long enough,
> I did one part, and then flipped it over than did the rest. The
> first 1/4" was fine but after that it got very hairy. It was not
> a safe process at all; the router was very eager to grab the wood
> and throw it. Slowing the router way down helped, but not enough.
> How could it be done properly; besides a 3/8" file?
Do you have access to a mill machine?
If I understand you correctly, you want something like this:
(use monospaced font)
____________ ____________
/ /| / /|
+-----------+ | +-----------+ |
| | \| | |
| \_/ | |
| |/
+---------------------------+
This would be very easy with the proper bit on a mill machine. You
could do it on a drill press with a cross-slide vice, but to avoid
stressing the drill press too much, I'd slightly modify this idea:
> I suppose I could have drilled a hole in the wood and removed the
> balance with a file. Any other ideas?
Drill the hole, remove most but not quite all of the excess material
with a file, then clean it up using the drill press and cross-slide
vice as a mill machine.
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
>I have two 1"x1"x27" pieces of oak. I needed to cut 3/8" dados in them,
> about the middle, to accept 3/8" dowels flush. I suppose a square bottom
> would be okay, but I had a round bottom in my mind.
>
> I stuck a 3/8" straight bit in my router table and pressed the side of the
> piece into it. Because it was not quite long enough, I did one part, and
> then flipped it over than did the rest. The first 1/4" was fine but after
> that it got very hairy. It was not a safe process at all; the router was
> very eager to grab the wood and throw it. Slowing the router way down
> helped, but not enough.
> How could it be done properly; besides a 3/8" file?
>
> I suppose I could have drilled a hole in the wood and removed the balance
> with a file. Any other ideas?
While not a deep, I have made 3/8" wide stopped through dados on my router
table also. 1000's through Ipe.
You are moving the piece from right to left? And or try a spiral or end
mill bit.
Toller wrote:
> Yes, that would have helped a great deal. I didn't do it because it would
> have required 8 setting; 2 pieces x 2 dados, x top/bottom.
> Instead of rushing into, like I usually do, I could have take a little time
> to lay it out properly so that there were only two distances.
Never forget, the most important tool in the shop is the thinking chair.
Lew