Interior Pantry Doors ?

Make sure any wood you use is completely dried and to the recommended
moisture content before it is machined smooth, flat, and square.
Otherwise you will make it square and flat and it will continue to
change shape (warp).

Bob G. wrote:
> My son in law asked me to make a "set" of pantry doors for him...
>
> Normal HEIGHT but only 15 inches wide.. and the standard thickness of
> an interior door...
>
> Just a simple question as I have never made a door such as this before
>
> Wood stability ..(.twist etc) . how much should I expect... and what
> steps should I take to minimize that.. I will be gluing up the
> door...and they will have glass in the top section...
>
> Hate ot make the doors and have them deform in 5 months...
>
> Since this is on my nickel and the doors will be painted I planned on
> using Poplar...
>
> Bob Griffiths

I've made raised panel bi-fold doors for two bedroom closets and one
walk-in linen closest off our bathroom, two were oak and one white pine.
All were finished with dewaxed shellac. The door openings were all
standard height and 30" wide (15" wide panels)and made from 3/4" stock.
I started with kiln dried lumber and let it acclimatize to the house
before milling the lumber. The newest is the bathroom door and it's
about two years old. None have twisted or bowed, even in the humid
bathroom environment.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
(Remove -SPAM- to send email)

How about buying a 30" door and ripping it in half?
You didn't say if it were to be raised panel?
Wilson
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My son in law asked me to make a "set" of pantry doors for him...
>
> Normal HEIGHT but only 15 inches wide.. and the standard thickness of
> an interior door...
>
> Just a simple question as I have never made a door such as this before
>
> Wood stability ..(.twist etc) . how much should I expect... and what
> steps should I take to minimize that.. I will be gluing up the
> door...and they will have glass in the top section...
>
> Hate ot make the doors and have them deform in 5 months...
>
> Since this is on my nickel and the doors will be painted I planned on
> using Poplar...
>
> Bob Griffiths

On Sun, 17 Apr 2005 11:19:56 -0400, Bob G.
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Normal HEIGHT but only 15 inches wide.. and the standard thickness of
>an interior door...

You could remove the hinges from a 2/6 bifold.
There are several styles available that could be painted. You might
even be able to find a pine set with glass in the top.

Mike O.

"Bob G." wrote in message

> Wood stability ..(.twist etc) . how much should I expect... and what
> steps should I take to minimize that.. I will be gluing up the
> door...and they will have glass in the top section...



While not an accomplished door maker by any means, the one thing I have
learned in the ones I've made is to start with absolutely FLAT, square stock
and pay particular attention to straight grain throughout. Take great pains
in this regard.

Unless you're extremely lucky in your selections where you buy your wood,
this usually means milling it yourself, following all the usual guidelines
for moisture content, acclimation to shop temp/humidity, etc.

Poplar will work. So will quarter sawn red oak, and it will likely be more
stable over the years. I am always surprised at the amount of quarter sawn
red oak stock that is in the bins at the BORG's ... you just have to look
for it.

In a nutshell, FLAT stock, and SQUARE cuts, are the foundations of a good
door of any type... everything else should fall into place.

... then you have to worry that the pantry is square and the FF, or end
panels and floors, are flat ... but you can't control everything.

Good luck.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/17/05