The other day, I saw where someone had cooked up a router height gauge
that used a dial indicator. I had to have one of these. So I figured
this would be a great quick project that would use my bandsaw and drill
press, two tools I've been wanting to use on a project. (you see, I've
been making a lot of cabinets and such lately...)
So I head over to my bandsaw. It's a Delta 14" with a riser block. I
Noticed that I had my 1/2 inch blade on it. No problem, I'll switch
over to that 1/8" blade which should be perfect for cutting out this
curvy piece of hickory.
An hour later, I had it working. But I learned a couple things:
1. Bandsaws are difficult to adjust correctly.
2. I suck at adjusting bandsaws.
And I've read Larry Byrd's book. I guess I need to read it again.
My main problems were that the tension wasn't right, and I had the
thrust bearing too far forward. And even if I hadn't made these
mistakes, getting the tracking just right was difficult as well.
People talk all the time about dedicating routers to certain bits. I'm
ready to pick up a grizzly 14" bandsaw just so that I can have a 1/8"
blade and a 1/2" blade installed and tuned at the same time. Maybe I
need a third one with a bimetal blade for metal work. And a big fourth
one for heavy resawing.
The VS drill press worked perfectly the first try. :-)
brian
tommyboy wrote:
> On 6 Nov 2006 10:54:45 -0800, "brianlanning" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
> Well there's your problem. Larry Byrd's books are about basketball,
> not bandsawing.
I'm having a bad day. I just posted a "nerbie" question over in the
metalwork group.
brian
"brianlanning" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Snip
>
> 1. Bandsaws are difficult to adjust correctly.
Most are, the better ones are a snap.
I went from an old hard to adjust Craftsman to an 18" Rikon. The Rikin was
better but still a PIA. Now I have a LT16HD Laguna and adjustments take
little time and tracking is almost a non issue. I seldom have to adjust
tracking unless going from a 1/4" blade to a 1" blade. That adjustment
takes about 1/4" turn of the tracking wheel.
>
> 2. I suck at adjusting bandsaws.
So did I . You need a much better band saw. :~)
>
> And I've read Larry Byrd's book. I guess I need to read it again.
Yes, some times it is the equipment and not you.
On 6 Nov 2006 10:54:45 -0800, "brianlanning" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>And I've read Larry Byrd's book. I guess I need to read it again.
>
Well there's your problem. Larry Byrd's books are about basketball,
not bandsawing.
On 6 Nov 2006 10:54:45 -0800, "brianlanning" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>People talk all the time about dedicating routers to certain bits. I'm
>ready to pick up a grizzly 14" bandsaw just so that I can have a 1/8"
>blade and a 1/2" blade installed and tuned at the same time. Maybe I
>need a third one with a bimetal blade for metal work. And a big fourth
>one for heavy resawing.
Right next to my 14" Delta with the 1/2" blade is my 9" Ryobi with a
1/4" blade, and right next to that is the scroll saw. Chances are one
of them can do it. I do still have to put the 1/8" blade on the big
one for thick stock, but it doesn't happen that often.
-Leuf
On 6 Nov 2006 10:54:45 -0800, "brianlanning" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>The other day, I saw where someone had cooked up a router height gauge
>that used a dial indicator. I had to have one of these. So I figured
>this would be a great quick project that would use my bandsaw and drill
>press, two tools I've been wanting to use on a project. (you see, I've
>been making a lot of cabinets and such lately...)
>
>So I head over to my bandsaw. It's a Delta 14" with a riser block. I
>Noticed that I had my 1/2 inch blade on it. No problem, I'll switch
>over to that 1/8" blade which should be perfect for cutting out this
>curvy piece of hickory.
>
>An hour later, I had it working. But I learned a couple things:
>
>1. Bandsaws are difficult to adjust correctly.
>
>2. I suck at adjusting bandsaws.
Don't get too hard on yourself. They can be tricky, and it takes a
fair amount of practice to get it tuned in just right quickly.
In article <[email protected]>,
brianlanning <[email protected]> wrote:
>The other day, I saw where someone had cooked up a router height gauge
>that used a dial indicator. I had to have one of these. So I figured
>this would be a great quick project that would use my bandsaw and drill
>press, two tools I've been wanting to use on a project. (you see, I've
>been making a lot of cabinets and such lately...)
>
>So I head over to my bandsaw. It's a Delta 14" with a riser block. I
>Noticed that I had my 1/2 inch blade on it. No problem, I'll switch
>over to that 1/8" blade which should be perfect for cutting out this
>curvy piece of hickory.
>
>An hour later, I had it working. But I learned a couple things:
>
>1. Bandsaws are difficult to adjust correctly.
>
>2. I suck at adjusting bandsaws.
>
>And I've read Larry Byrd's book. I guess I need to read it again.
>
>My main problems were that the tension wasn't right, and I had the
>thrust bearing too far forward. And even if I hadn't made these
>mistakes, getting the tracking just right was difficult as well.
>People talk all the time about dedicating routers to certain bits. I'm
>ready to pick up a grizzly 14" bandsaw just so that I can have a 1/8"
>blade and a 1/2" blade installed and tuned at the same time. Maybe I
>need a third one with a bimetal blade for metal work. And a big fourth
>one for heavy resawing.
>
>The VS drill press worked perfectly the first try. :-)
>
>brian
>
Perhaps on a more practical note, how about a scrollsaw?
--
Often wrong, never in doubt.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - [email protected]