I have a melamine-on-tempered-hardboard panel which is stuck to
drywall with an adhesive.
A section of the panel has been torn off. How do I cut the ragged,
uneven edge of the section that is still on the wall so I can install
a new section without a noticeable gap? (I don't have a circular-saw
or a jigsaw)..
gcotterl wrote:
> I have a melamine-on-tempered-hardboard panel which is stuck to
> drywall with an adhesive.
>
> A section of the panel has been torn off. How do I cut the ragged,
> uneven edge of the section that is still on the wall so I can install
> a new section without a noticeable gap? (I don't have a circular-saw
> or a jigsaw)..
Personally I'd remove the remainder of the panel and replace the whole
thing.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
On Sat, 7 Nov 2009 17:11:37 -0800 (PST), Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>My shop runs on shooting boards. Fast, practically foolproof.
On another note, I don't think I've ever really understood what a
shooting board is. What I believe is that it's for trimming to a
sharp, definable point. Would that be considered correct?
On Nov 7, 4:41=A0pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Nonny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > "gcotterl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> I have a melamine-on-tempered-hardboard panel which is stuck to
> >> drywall with an adhesive.
>
> >> A section of the panel has been torn off. =A0How do I cut the ragged,
> >> uneven edge of the section that is still on the wall so I can install
> >> a new section without a noticeable gap? =A0(I don't have a circular-sa=
w
> >> or a jigsaw)..
>
> > If your time is worth anything, consider buying a very inexpensive
> > circular saw with a good panel blade. =A0It'll make short work of your
> > problem and if you're like most homeowner's, the saw will last you and =
be
> > available forever.
>
> Woah! there..... =A0I don't know where this little project is located but=
it
> sounds like the OP is describing a situation that may involve a kitchen o=
r
> bathroom. =A0Typically melamine on tempered hardboard is used in one of t=
hose
> locations as it is pretty much water proof and cleans easily. =A0If that =
is
> indeed fact you don't want to have a home owner learning to use a circle =
saw
> cutting into walls that might have gas lines, water lines or electrical
> wires that may be damaged.
Barker Board, by the sounds of it. If the saw is set to 1/4" depth, he
should be okay.
Only a TCG blade stands a chance of minimizing chips. That, and a
straight-edge...probably needs to be screwed to the wall. Wear
goggles, in case you hit a screw on the wall-board behind the Barker
Board.
On Nov 7, 6:30=A0pm, "Nonny" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Nov 7, 4:41 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> "Nonny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> >>news:[email protected]...
>
> >> > "gcotterl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> >news:[email protected]=
...
> >> >> I have a melamine-on-tempered-hardboard panel which is stuck
> >> >> to
> >> >> drywall with an adhesive.
>
> >> >> A section of the panel has been torn off. =A0How do I cut the
> >> >> ragged,
> >> >> uneven edge of the section that is still on the wall so I
> >> >> can install
> >> >> a new section without a noticeable gap? =A0(I don't have a
> >> >> circular-saw
> >> >> or a jigsaw)..
>
> >> > If your time is worth anything, consider buying a very
> >> > inexpensive
> >> > circular saw with a good panel blade. =A0It'll make short work
> >> > of your
> >> > problem and if you're like most homeowner's, the saw will
> >> > last you and be
> >> > available forever.
>
> >> Woah! there..... =A0I don't know where this little project is
> >> located but it
> >> sounds like the OP is describing a situation that may involve a
> >> kitchen or
> >> bathroom. =A0Typically melamine on tempered hardboard is used in
> >> one of those
> >> locations as it is pretty much water proof and cleans easily.
> >> If that is
> >> indeed fact you don't want to have a home owner learning to use
> >> a circle saw
> >> cutting into walls that might have gas lines, water lines or
> >> electrical
> >> wires that may be damaged.
>
> > Barker Board, by the sounds of it. If the saw is set to 1/4"
> > depth, he
> > should be okay.
> > Only a TCG blade stands a chance of minimizing chips. That, and
> > a
> > straight-edge...probably needs to be screwed to the wall. Wear
> > goggles, in case you hit a screw on the wall-board behind the
> > Barker
> > Board.
>
> I stayed away from explaining how to do it, though I agree that
> any circular saw with a depth adjustment (that includes about all)
> would be a LOT safer than a jigsaw, and produce better results.
> IMHO, assuming that you're right about the 1/4" melamine coated
> paneling, I'd make a shooting board and use that to prevent chip
> out.
>
> To do that, get a piece of 5/8" or 3/4" particle board or plywood
> (even 1/4" will do for short pieces) =A0about 3' to 4' long. =A0The
> length should obviously be longer than your damaged section. =A0The
> width of the shooting board would be about 12" or so: it's not
> critical, but has to be a few inches wider than the base of your
> saw.
>
> On the face of the board, a few inches in from the edge, mark the
> straightest line you can possibly make for the length of the
> board. =A0Then, glue a strip of wood to the mark. =A0The ideal strip
> would be about 1/4" tall by an inch or so wide. =A0It must be
> perfectly straight.
>
> Then, simply place the base of the saw against the strip of wood,
> lower the blade to exceed the depth of the shooting board's
> material and cut off the excess. =A0What you'll have is a straight
> edge that's a perfect fit between the inside edge of your saw
> blade and the outside base of the saw's shoe. =A0You'll find this to
> be one of the handiest jigs you ever made.
>
> To use it, you clamp the board to the workpiece on the outside of
> the straight strip. =A0For instance, if you're cutting off the
> bottom of a door, clamp the shooting board to the door so that the
> cut edge is aligned with your marks. =A0Then, when the saw cuts off
> the door, particle board, paneling etc., there will be no chipout
> at all AND you won't have to make additional measurements or
> calculations, since the cut edge of the shooting board lies
> straight on the mark.
>
> --
> Nonny
>
> You cannot make a stupid kid smart by
> handing him a diploma. =A0Schools need standards
> to measure the amount of education actually
> absorbed by children. Don't sacrifice the smart
> kids to make the dumb ones feel good about themselves.
My shop runs on shooting boards. Fast, practically foolproof.
"Nonny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "gcotterl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I have a melamine-on-tempered-hardboard panel which is stuck to
>> drywall with an adhesive.
>>
>> A section of the panel has been torn off. How do I cut the ragged,
>> uneven edge of the section that is still on the wall so I can install
>> a new section without a noticeable gap? (I don't have a circular-saw
>> or a jigsaw)..
>
> If your time is worth anything, consider buying a very inexpensive
> circular saw with a good panel blade. It'll make short work of your
> problem and if you're like most homeowner's, the saw will last you and be
> available forever.
Woah! there..... I don't know where this little project is located but it
sounds like the OP is describing a situation that may involve a kitchen or
bathroom. Typically melamine on tempered hardboard is used in one of those
locations as it is pretty much water proof and cleans easily. If that is
indeed fact you don't want to have a home owner learning to use a circle saw
cutting into walls that might have gas lines, water lines or electrical
wires that may be damaged.
On Nov 7, 6:17=A0pm, Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
> gcotterl wrote:
> > I have a melamine-on-tempered-hardboard panel which is stuck to
> > drywall with an adhesive.
>
> > A section of the panel has been torn off. =A0How do I cut the ragged,
> > uneven edge of the section that is still on the wall so I can install
> > a new section without a noticeable gap? =A0(I don't have a circular-saw
> > or a jigsaw)..
>
> Personally I'd remove the remainder of the panel and replace the whole
> thing.
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> [email protected]
Yabbut.... drywall/construction adhesive, contact cement, even...
yikes... that's a can of worms. We need more info. *S*
"gcotterl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a melamine-on-tempered-hardboard panel which is stuck to
> drywall with an adhesive.
>
> A section of the panel has been torn off. How do I cut the
> ragged,
> uneven edge of the section that is still on the wall so I can
> install
> a new section without a noticeable gap? (I don't have a
> circular-saw
> or a jigsaw)..
If your time is worth anything, consider buying a very inexpensive
circular saw with a good panel blade. It'll make short work of
your problem and if you're like most homeowner's, the saw will
last you and be available forever.
--
Nonny
You cannot make a stupid kid smart by
handing him a diploma. Schools need standards
to measure the amount of education actually
absorbed by children. Don't sacrifice the smart
kids to make the dumb ones feel good about themselves.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Nov 7, 4:41 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "Nonny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>>
>> > "gcotterl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> >news:[email protected]...
>> >> I have a melamine-on-tempered-hardboard panel which is stuck
>> >> to
>> >> drywall with an adhesive.
>>
>> >> A section of the panel has been torn off. How do I cut the
>> >> ragged,
>> >> uneven edge of the section that is still on the wall so I
>> >> can install
>> >> a new section without a noticeable gap? (I don't have a
>> >> circular-saw
>> >> or a jigsaw)..
>>
>> > If your time is worth anything, consider buying a very
>> > inexpensive
>> > circular saw with a good panel blade. It'll make short work
>> > of your
>> > problem and if you're like most homeowner's, the saw will
>> > last you and be
>> > available forever.
>>
>> Woah! there..... I don't know where this little project is
>> located but it
>> sounds like the OP is describing a situation that may involve a
>> kitchen or
>> bathroom. Typically melamine on tempered hardboard is used in
>> one of those
>> locations as it is pretty much water proof and cleans easily.
>> If that is
>> indeed fact you don't want to have a home owner learning to use
>> a circle saw
>> cutting into walls that might have gas lines, water lines or
>> electrical
>> wires that may be damaged.
>
> Barker Board, by the sounds of it. If the saw is set to 1/4"
> depth, he
> should be okay.
> Only a TCG blade stands a chance of minimizing chips. That, and
> a
> straight-edge...probably needs to be screwed to the wall. Wear
> goggles, in case you hit a screw on the wall-board behind the
> Barker
> Board.
I stayed away from explaining how to do it, though I agree that
any circular saw with a depth adjustment (that includes about all)
would be a LOT safer than a jigsaw, and produce better results.
IMHO, assuming that you're right about the 1/4" melamine coated
paneling, I'd make a shooting board and use that to prevent chip
out.
To do that, get a piece of 5/8" or 3/4" particle board or plywood
(even 1/4" will do for short pieces) about 3' to 4' long. The
length should obviously be longer than your damaged section. The
width of the shooting board would be about 12" or so: it's not
critical, but has to be a few inches wider than the base of your
saw.
On the face of the board, a few inches in from the edge, mark the
straightest line you can possibly make for the length of the
board. Then, glue a strip of wood to the mark. The ideal strip
would be about 1/4" tall by an inch or so wide. It must be
perfectly straight.
Then, simply place the base of the saw against the strip of wood,
lower the blade to exceed the depth of the shooting board's
material and cut off the excess. What you'll have is a straight
edge that's a perfect fit between the inside edge of your saw
blade and the outside base of the saw's shoe. You'll find this to
be one of the handiest jigs you ever made.
To use it, you clamp the board to the workpiece on the outside of
the straight strip. For instance, if you're cutting off the
bottom of a door, clamp the shooting board to the door so that the
cut edge is aligned with your marks. Then, when the saw cuts off
the door, particle board, paneling etc., there will be no chipout
at all AND you won't have to make additional measurements or
calculations, since the cut edge of the shooting board lies
straight on the mark.
--
Nonny
You cannot make a stupid kid smart by
handing him a diploma. Schools need standards
to measure the amount of education actually
absorbed by children. Don't sacrifice the smart
kids to make the dumb ones feel good about themselves.