Hiya folks,
Getting the gears going regarding building a shop next year. I'm looking
at something in the 900 to 1000 SF range. Aside from the cost of concrete,
which is cheaper---going with a metal building (prefab) or conventional
framing? I would do all the work myself regardless of which one I went
with so am just curious to know from any contractors out there. I would
probably forego the walls on a metal building as I will more than likely
frame and stucco (or maybe use adobe) them myself. Thanks very much for
any advice.
Cheers,
cc
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "James "Cubby" Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>
>>> How about concrete? It can be easily done yourself with premade
>>> insulated forms. American Polysteel is in Albuquerque
>>> www.polysteel.com
>>>
>>
>> I may swing by there and ask a few questions. Hadn't even considered
>> that. Sounds expensive though.
>> Thanks Edwin!
>
> I'm told it is comparable to a stick built building, but the energy cost
> for heating and cooking is about 40% less. About 5% of all new houses are
> build that way.
>
Yeah, I'm gonna give them a call one of these days. Right now, I'm just in
the exploratory stage. I say it looks expensive due to the concrete.
Concrete here has gone through the roof. I poured my own footings for an
adobe wall this summer. I got the concrete for around $75 a yeard. Now
it's up around $130-140 a yard. I believe they also make the "panels"
where the interior concrete has already been poured. Trouble is then I
need to hire a crane to set them....but they go up really quickly. A
neighbor did that on an addition and the crew showed up in the morning and
by nightfall they had all the walls and roof joists up. From an energy
standpoint, it would definitely be the way to go!
Cheers,
cc
"James "Cubby" Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hiya folks,
> Getting the gears going regarding building a shop next year. I'm looking
> at something in the 900 to 1000 SF range. Aside from the cost of
> concrete, which is cheaper---going with a metal building (prefab) or
> conventional framing? I would do all the work myself regardless of
> which one I went with so am just curious to know from any contractors out
> there. I would probably forego the walls on a metal building as I will
> more than likely frame and stucco (or maybe use adobe) them myself.
> Thanks very much for any advice.
> Cheers,
> cc
Metal is cheaper and easier to erect. Here in So.Cal,the weather cooperates
nicely for a metal roof. It would not be my choice in any case. They tend
to leak and are noisy. You can insulate them for hot or cold but IMHO they
still look cheap. If you are building a dedicated shop, build a wood
building with a high ceiling and wood floor (over a concrete slab).
Dave
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Probably not a problem in NM but I will tell you from experience that a
metal building has one BIG drawback. When it's cold outside and you
heat up the inside, the ceiling gets condensation which drips all over
everything. Oh, the other drawback is that you can't just pound a nail
into a stud or beam or anything if you weant to hang something up.
FoggyTown
"MrAnderson" <[email protected]> writes:
>It always suprises me, the low construction quotes you hear on the web.
> I'm finishing up on building a 24 x 36 barn workshop with crawlspace
>and full loft. I'm not finished and I'm reaching the $40,000 mark.
>$25 / foot. Most materials were bought pre-katrina.
I am also amazed by low construction price quotes I hear on the web.
I am building a shop exactly the same size as yours with attic trusses for
loft storage. I am figuring $35,000 to $37,000 with a lot of DIY. I am
planning on seamless steel siding that adds about $5,000 to the cost.
I haven't seen much change in building materials prices post-katrina. I
have seen prices go up 15% to 25% in the last five years or so.
Brian Elfert
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:B1jnf.1783$pF.659@trndny08...
>
> "James "Cubby" Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> Thanks folks for the insights. I hadn't really given much thought to
>> the metal roofing capturing heat/cold. I live in NM and it get's pretty
>> darned warm in the summer so maybe I should just stick with conventional
>> building.
>
> How about concrete? It can be easily done yourself with premade insulated
> forms. American Polysteel is in Albuquerque www.polysteel.com
>
I may swing by there and ask a few questions. Hadn't even considered that.
Sounds expensive though.
Thanks Edwin!
cc
On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 03:00:53 -0700, "James \"Cubby\" Culbertson"
<[email protected]> wrote:
not sure where you're located but keep this in mind. With a metal
building in the summer it will absorb the heat and hold it longer
making it hotter to work in, and in the winter it will hold the cold
like a freezer.
>Hiya folks,
>Getting the gears going regarding building a shop next year. I'm looking
>at something in the 900 to 1000 SF range. Aside from the cost of concrete,
>which is cheaper---going with a metal building (prefab) or conventional
>framing? I would do all the work myself regardless of which one I went
>with so am just curious to know from any contractors out there. I would
>probably forego the walls on a metal building as I will more than likely
>frame and stucco (or maybe use adobe) them myself. Thanks very much for
>any advice.
>Cheers,
>cc
>
"foggytown" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Probably not a problem in NM but I will tell you from experience that a
> metal building has one BIG drawback. When it's cold outside and you
> heat up the inside, the ceiling gets condensation which drips all over
> everything. Oh, the other drawback is that you can't just pound a nail
> into a stud or beam or anything if you weant to hang something up.
>
> FoggyTown
>
Yeah, hence I am considering framing out the skin of the building with 2x's.
Also considering adobe to match my surroundings but you can't just pound a
nail in there either!
Cheers,
cc
"James "Cubby" Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Thanks folks for the insights. I hadn't really given much thought to the
> metal roofing capturing heat/cold. I live in NM and it get's pretty
> darned warm in the summer so maybe I should just stick with conventional
> building.
How about concrete? It can be easily done yourself with premade insulated
forms. American Polysteel is in Albuquerque www.polysteel.com
"James "Cubby" Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> How about concrete? It can be easily done yourself with premade
>> insulated forms. American Polysteel is in Albuquerque www.polysteel.com
>>
>
> I may swing by there and ask a few questions. Hadn't even considered
> that. Sounds expensive though.
> Thanks Edwin!
I'm told it is comparable to a stick built building, but the energy cost
for heating and cooking is about 40% less. About 5% of all new houses are
build that way.
"James "Cubby" Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> How about concrete? It can be easily done yourself with premade
>> insulated forms. American Polysteel is in Albuquerque www.polysteel.com
>>
>
> I may swing by there and ask a few questions. Hadn't even considered
> that. Sounds expensive though.
> Thanks Edwin!
I'm told it is comparable to a stick built building, but the energy cost
for heating and cooking is about 40% less. About 5% of all new houses are
build that way.
"Matt Stachoni" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 21:44:34 +0100, Juergen Hannappel
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Matt Stachoni <[email protected]> writes:
>>
>>> On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 10:06:17 -0700, "James \"Cubby\" Culbertson"
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
> plus, I hate concrete slabs :)
>
> - Matt
Amen! Nothing's worse than wanting to add a phone line or something and
having a concrete slab!
I plan actually to install a wood floor system over a crawl space. I
originally was thinking of accessing the crawl space from above but moving a
few yards of dirt would make more sense to get a more generous crawl space.
I'm beginning to look more and more at these guys:
www.miracletruss.com
Appears the building is metal but you can build the roof up just like a
conventional roof (ie. no condensation or drips!).
Cheers,
cc
"James "Cubby" Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> which is cheaper--- metal building (prefab) or conventional framing?
I just did a comparison and my estimates (for materials only) showed about
$6/sqft for post and beam woodframe and about $8/sqft for metal prefab with
a slab.
After working in a post and beam wooden shop for years, I've decided my next
shop will be a metal on slab. I have to be extremely careful about sparks in
my wooden shop, so sharpening/grinding/welding/oxy-cutting, etc all have to
happen outside.
Good luck.
Scott
"James "Cubby" Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hiya folks,
> Getting the gears going regarding building a shop next year. I'm looking
> at something in the 900 to 1000 SF range. Aside from the cost of
> concrete, which is cheaper---going with a metal building (prefab) or
> conventional framing? I would do all the work myself regardless of
> which one I went with so am just curious to know from any contractors out
> there. I would probably forego the walls on a metal building as I will
> more than likely frame and stucco (or maybe use adobe) them myself.
> Thanks very much for any advice.
> Cheers,
> cc
I think I will go metal if a concrete floor is cheaper than a wood floor.
Personally I would prefer a wood floor over a concrete floor but IMHO the
metal building will be much more maintenance free.
"James "Cubby" Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hiya folks,
> Getting the gears going regarding building a shop next year. I'm looking
> at something in the 900 to 1000 SF range. Aside from the cost of
> concrete, which is cheaper---going with a metal building (prefab) or
> conventional framing? I would do all the work myself regardless of
> which one I went with so am just curious to know from any contractors out
> there. I would probably forego the walls on a metal building as I will
> more than likely frame and stucco (or maybe use adobe) them myself.
> Thanks very much for any advice.
> Cheers,
> cc
>
>
Thanks folks for the insights. I hadn't really given much thought to the
metal roofing capturing heat/cold. I live in NM and it get's pretty darned
warm in the summer so maybe I should just stick with conventional building.
I do plan to do this over a slab but am planning on pouring the slab such
that I can put a wood floor in with a bit of space under it so I can run my
DC piping. Obviously I'd have to find a way to mount the floor with easy
access to the area below it. The metal building option just looks so much
easier to do and for a one man show, would probably go up quicker. I seem
to remember a site that compared different building methods' prices but
haven't been able to locate it. Anyway, thanks very much for the advice!
Cheers,
cc
On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 21:44:34 +0100, Juergen Hannappel
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Matt Stachoni <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 10:06:17 -0700, "James \"Cubby\" Culbertson"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>I do plan to do this over a slab but am planning on pouring the slab such
>>>that I can put a wood floor in with a bit of space under it so I can run my
>>>DC piping. Obviously I'd have to find a way to mount the floor with easy
>>>access to the area below it.
>>
>> Can you not just build a framed floor over a crawlspace? That to me
>> seems to make the most sense, as you can run all DC and air compressor
>> piping under the floor and stub up to the machines.
>
>That requires either to move a substantial amountd of dirt or raises
>the floor to a level prohibiting easy roll in/out of stuff from the
>workshop, unless his building site is adequately sloped.
Well, aside from the excavation costs - which in NM I cannot imagine
being much more than that required for the slab + foundation, it would
seem to be a more logical solution...
plus, I hate concrete slabs :)
- Matt
On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 10:06:17 -0700, "James \"Cubby\" Culbertson"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I do plan to do this over a slab but am planning on pouring the slab such
>that I can put a wood floor in with a bit of space under it so I can run my
>DC piping. Obviously I'd have to find a way to mount the floor with easy
>access to the area below it.
Can you not just build a framed floor over a crawlspace? That to me
seems to make the most sense, as you can run all DC and air compressor
piping under the floor and stub up to the machines.
- Matt
Might find some advice in alt.home.repair also.
On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 03:00:53 -0700, "James \"Cubby\" Culbertson"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hiya folks,
>Getting the gears going regarding building a shop next year. I'm looking
>at something in the 900 to 1000 SF range. Aside from the cost of concrete,
>which is cheaper---going with a metal building (prefab) or conventional
>framing? I would do all the work myself regardless of which one I went
>with so am just curious to know from any contractors out there. I would
>probably forego the walls on a metal building as I will more than likely
>frame and stucco (or maybe use adobe) them myself. Thanks very much for
>any advice.
>Cheers,
>cc
>
"James \"Cubby\" Culbertson" <[email protected]> writes:
> "James "Cubby" Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Hiya folks,
>> Getting the gears going regarding building a shop next year. I'm looking
>> at something in the 900 to 1000 SF range. Aside from the cost of
[...]
> metal roofing capturing heat/cold. I live in NM and it get's pretty darned
> warm in the summer so maybe I should just stick with conventional building.
Maybe build a green roof, with plants on it?
> I do plan to do this over a slab but am planning on pouring the slab such
Whan kind of ground do you have to build on? Not all places need a
poured slab, if the ground is stable enough by itself you can get away
without concrete slabs.
> DC piping. Obviously I'd have to find a way to mount the floor with easy
> access to the area below it.
One way of easy acces: Build/Buy floor boards of reasonable size, like
0.5 x 1m, and put them on special levelable posts at their corners,
AKA industrial false floor.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
Matt Stachoni <[email protected]> writes:
> On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 10:06:17 -0700, "James \"Cubby\" Culbertson"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I do plan to do this over a slab but am planning on pouring the slab such
>>that I can put a wood floor in with a bit of space under it so I can run my
>>DC piping. Obviously I'd have to find a way to mount the floor with easy
>>access to the area below it.
>
> Can you not just build a framed floor over a crawlspace? That to me
> seems to make the most sense, as you can run all DC and air compressor
> piping under the floor and stub up to the machines.
That requires either to move a substantial amountd of dirt or raises
the floor to a level prohibiting easy roll in/out of stuff from the
workshop, unless his building site is adequately sloped.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23