I've been reading through the back posts on this and there seems to be a few
varying opinions.
I have to make several cuts in 3/16" Plexiglas, some as long as 48". I don't
mind trying the score and crack on the shorter cuts, but I think I'll go
with the TS for the longer cuts. It seems that most people (?) prefer to use
a plywood blade. But I'm wondering about the blade height? I would think
that a higher blade would reduce chipping, but increase the likelihood of
melting (more friction). Any experiences?
"Bill Stock"
> I've been reading through the back posts on this and there seems to be a few
> varying opinions.
>
> I have to make several cuts in 3/16" Plexiglas, some as long as 48". I don't
> mind trying the score and crack on the shorter cuts, but I think I'll go
> with the TS for the longer cuts. It seems that most people (?) prefer to use
> a plywood blade. But I'm wondering about the blade height? I would think
> that a higher blade would reduce chipping, but increase the likelihood of
> melting (more friction). Any experiences?
I'm in the sign business and do quite a bit of that. A triple grind tooth set,
80 per 10" blade will give you the best results. Sears has an aluminum
cutting blade for $65 that fills the bill.
Hi Bill,
I use a TCG 80 tooth set just high enough to clear. Works well for me. The
optimum height of the blade can depend upon the angle set of the teeth. Cheers,
JG
Bill Stock wrote:
> I've been reading through the back posts on this and there seems to be a few
> varying opinions.
>
> I have to make several cuts in 3/16" Plexiglas, some as long as 48". I don't
> mind trying the score and crack on the shorter cuts, but I think I'll go
> with the TS for the longer cuts. It seems that most people (?) prefer to use
> a plywood blade. But I'm wondering about the blade height? I would think
> that a higher blade would reduce chipping, but increase the likelihood of
> melting (more friction). Any experiences?
Bill Stock wrote:
> I've been reading through the back posts on this and there seems to be a few
> varying opinions.
>
> I have to make several cuts in 3/16" Plexiglas, some as long as 48". I don't
> mind trying the score and crack on the shorter cuts, but I think I'll go
> with the TS for the longer cuts. It seems that most people (?) prefer to use
> a plywood blade. But I'm wondering about the blade height? I would think
> that a higher blade would reduce chipping, but increase the likelihood of
> melting (more friction). Any experiences?
>
>
>
I used to cut plastic using the score and snap method. It was a PITA. I
now use my table saw and a Freud Industrial combo blade. It's worked
very well for both ABS and acrylic sheets. The edges are much better
than what I used to get with the score and snap method.
-Peter
I've been told if you reverse your bandsaw blade, teeth up instead of down,
that it will cut acrylic perfectly.
"Bill Stock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been reading through the back posts on this and there seems to be a
> few
> varying opinions.
>
> I have to make several cuts in 3/16" Plexiglas, some as long as 48". I
> don't
> mind trying the score and crack on the shorter cuts, but I think I'll go
> with the TS for the longer cuts. It seems that most people (?) prefer to
> use
> a plywood blade. But I'm wondering about the blade height? I would think
> that a higher blade would reduce chipping, but increase the likelihood of
> melting (more friction). Any experiences?
>
>
>
> Bill Stock wrote:
> > I have to make several cuts in 3/16" Plexiglas, some as long as 48". I don't
> > mind trying the score and crack on the shorter cuts, but I think I'll go
> > with the TS for the longer cuts. It seems that most people (?) prefer to use
> > a plywood blade. But I'm wondering about the blade height? I would think
> > that a higher blade would reduce chipping, but increase the likelihood of
> > melting (more friction). Any experiences?
As a solid surface fabricator, I do quite a few displays using acrylics
of all thicknesses. The best results with Plexiglass, for me, is to use
the same blades as the ones I use for acrylic solid surface ( not to be
confused with polyester solid surface products i.e. Avonite Studio
collection, Formica alloys etc). Royce Ayr Ultima TCG 80 teeth (120 for
the 12' version) with a -5 degree negative hook. Amana and BladesLLC
have similar blades.
I always leave the protective paper on the Plexiglas because I use
felt-tipped fingerboards to apply mild pressure on the material because
the thinner stuff likes to chatter (not shatter). On the Unisaw, I toss
on a cpl of blade stabilizers. The magic words are: sharp blades and
major suction on the DC.
Hope this helps.
BTW, those sawblades are considered General Purpose as well, and they
work very well on melamine (I hate that shit) and Baltic Birch plywood
etc. so your investment won't go to waste.
Rob
On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 22:41:14 -0500, "Bill Stock" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I've been reading through the back posts on this and there seems to be a few
>varying opinions.
>
>I have to make several cuts in 3/16" Plexiglas, some as long as 48". I don't
>mind trying the score and crack on the shorter cuts, but I think I'll go
>with the TS for the longer cuts. It seems that most people (?) prefer to use
>a plywood blade. But I'm wondering about the blade height? I would think
>that a higher blade would reduce chipping, but increase the likelihood of
>melting (more friction). Any experiences?
>
>
48" will be a problem, but for cutting out smaller sizes (up to about
12 x 12") I use a DW788 scroll saw, it works fine, even up to 12mm
thick stock.
Barry Lennox