Has anyone done this?
I just re-did my DC system (Made all the blast gates my self) Right now I
use the longRanger remote which works fine.
But I want to add and auto switch on my chop saw - The blast gate is right
above it - I want to pull it and have the DC turn on - make my cut and push
it closed.
For what ever reason only when I use that machine I find it too cumbersome
to hit the remote.
TIA
--
Thanks,
Rob
You can reply to me at
r_b_v at v_e_r_z_e_r_a doht c_o_m
(remove the _ to get the address)
> Opening one of those gates would complete
> that circuit. This current would cause the relay to close, which would turn
> on the power to whatever device was connected to it. Is it that simple?
Yes, it's that simple. But simpler yet is to just buy this:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/lrmset110.html
I usually like engineering my own electronic stuff, but I don't think
you could buy the parts for 50 bucks.
> Another scenario (the "really" ideal one) would be this. I turn on the power
> to my saw. Doing so magically opens the blast gate for that device
> (solenoid?) and turns on the dust collector/shop vac (relay). But how do
> you detect the power flowing to the saw?
It exists: the Ecogate system. Uses coils in the electrical panel to
detect current flow to individual machines. Lotsa bucks.
Clint wrote:
> Another scenario (the "really" ideal one) would be this. I turn on the power
> to my saw. Doing so magically opens the blast gate for that device
> (solenoid?) and turns on the dust collector/shop vac (relay). But how do
> you detect the power flowing to the saw?
One way would be to tap into the wires going to the motor. Run them to
a transformer, then a rectifier/filter to give crude DC, then use that
to drive your solenoid on the dust gate.
Alternately, you could tap into the hot/cold wires on the power line,
run it through a high-power low-resistance resistor, then use the
voltage drop across the resistor (appropriately transformed and
rectified) to trigger the dust gate circuit.
Chris
Rob V (in [email protected]) said:
| Has anyone done this?
| I just re-did my DC system (Made all the blast gates my self) Right
| now I use the longRanger remote which works fine.
| But I want to add and auto switch on my chop saw - The blast gate
| is right above it - I want to pull it and have the DC turn on -
| make my cut and push it closed.
| For what ever reason only when I use that machine I find it too
| cumbersome to hit the remote.
I like Clint's idea; but it may be more practical to just put a
Hall-effect switch on the blast gate body with something for it to
detect recessed into the gate's slide.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html
[email protected] wrote in news:1132266026.765738.76720
@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
> Yes, it's that simple. But simpler yet is to just buy this:
> http://www.pennstateind.com/store/lrmset110.html
> I usually like engineering my own electronic stuff, but I don't think
> you could buy the parts for 50 bucks.
>
I just bought this for my new HF DC with Wynn filter conversion kit). I
was told by PSI that it is not compatible with an RF remote. Also, this
socalled multigate system comes with just 1 blastgate, I guess I'll have
to go to Radioshack and get some microswitches for the plastic blastgates
that came with the Woodcraft dustcollector starter kit (tubing, etc).
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
I'd be curious to see the schematic for this too, both a 120V and 220V
version (one for the shop-vac, one for a future dust collector). I haven't
done any research yet, and I have no real electronics experience, so please
dumb it down. :) Fairly specific details and a pretty picture would be
ideal! For my part, I'll commit to putting together the documentation and
putting it up on a website, if it's not already on one.
My very quick and dirty research gave some information on hooking up the
relay, which is what I think I need to do. But the actual details are still
pretty fuzzy. My understanding is that I'd have a 12V (steal a transformer
from some dead electronic device, or buy a Radio Shack one?) loop that would
go to the different blast gates. Opening one of those gates would complete
that circuit. This current would cause the relay to close, which would turn
on the power to whatever device was connected to it. Is it that simple?
Another scenario (the "really" ideal one) would be this. I turn on the power
to my saw. Doing so magically opens the blast gate for that device
(solenoid?) and turns on the dust collector/shop vac (relay). But how do
you detect the power flowing to the saw? I know that Sears has their
handy-dandy power bar for that, but to be perfectly honest, I'd rather keep
the saw and filtration device on separate circuits, as I'm not a big fan of
blowing circuit breakers. Also, I'd like to hook this up to my table saw,
router, miter saw, bandsaw, and drill press. The tablesaw is 220, the rest
are 110, and scattered around the gara-shop.
Again, I am willing to document this and publish on the web so you only have
to help once! :) Thanks for any input.
Clint
--
Clint
"Rob V" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Has anyone done this?
> I just re-did my DC system (Made all the blast gates my self) Right now I
> use the longRanger remote which works fine.
> But I want to add and auto switch on my chop saw - The blast gate is right
> above it - I want to pull it and have the DC turn on - make my cut and
> push it closed.
> For what ever reason only when I use that machine I find it too cumbersome
> to hit the remote.
>
> TIA
>
>
> --
> Thanks,
> Rob
>
> You can reply to me at
> r_b_v at v_e_r_z_e_r_a doht c_o_m
> (remove the _ to get the address)
>
Morris Dovey said:
>Rob V (in [email protected]) said:
>
>| Has anyone done this?
>| I just re-did my DC system (Made all the blast gates my self) Right
>| now I use the longRanger remote which works fine.
>| But I want to add and auto switch on my chop saw - The blast gate
>| is right above it - I want to pull it and have the DC turn on -
>| make my cut and push it closed.
>| For what ever reason only when I use that machine I find it too
>| cumbersome to hit the remote.
>
>I like Clint's idea; but it may be more practical to just put a
>Hall-effect switch on the blast gate body with something for it to
>detect recessed into the gate's slide.
I see this question posted occasionally, and I have a suggestion for
those cheap.. uhhh.. frugal DIYers out there.
Get a bunch of burglar alarm switches with N.O. when near the magnet
switches and mount the switch on the outside of the blast gate. Glue
a magnet, perhaps the one from the alarm switch pair, to the slide.
Wire them all in parallel, but in series with a 12v DC power source
(an old 12vDC 500ma wall wart) and a 12v relay whose contacts are
sufficient for the job of switching the Dust Collector. Try to keep
the coil current on the selected relay below 100ma.
Remote (wired) DC for a total cost of an old all wart, a relay, a few
switches and a hank of wire. The use of alarm switches is suggested
due to their widespread availability, but anyone who has access to
reed switches can order them separately.
FWIW,
Greg G.