DW

"Dan White"

04/02/2005 9:05 PM

Cutting beadboard

Hi. I have to cut 9 4x9 panels of beadboard to be used as wainscoating. I
have a circular saw, sabre saw, sawsall, and Dremel. I'm wondering what you
think would be the best combination of speed and fineness of cut. I want a
clean cut but only have a ripsaw on my circular. I don't think I'll be
using the sawsall for this one, either! Anyway the beadboard will be
stained and glazed before cutting so I want a clean cut. How about using a
formica blade on the sabre saw? I don't really want to spend $20 on a fine
toothed circular saw blade but if this is the right way to do it then so be
it. Any suggestions? Also, are there any tricks, like tape the cut line
first, or cut face down or something?

Oh, of course I will be covering much of the cut lines with moulding, but
not all of it.

Thanks,
dwhite


This topic has 11 replies

AW

"A.M. Wood"

in reply to "Dan White" on 04/02/2005 9:05 PM

04/02/2005 8:06 PM


If you don't want to spend the money on the new blade, do yourself a
favor and just chuck the bead board straight into the garbage. That
way you won't have to spend all that time ripping it down and patching
the holes in the wall.

JG

"John Grossbohlin"

in reply to "Dan White" on 04/02/2005 9:05 PM

05/02/2005 3:57 AM


"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi. I have to cut 9 4x9 panels of beadboard to be used as wainscoating.
> I
> have a circular saw, sabre saw, sawsall, and Dremel. I'm wondering what
> you
> think would be the best combination of speed and fineness of cut. I want
> a
> clean cut but only have a ripsaw on my circular. I don't think I'll be
> using the sawsall for this one, either! Anyway the beadboard will be
> stained and glazed before cutting so I want a clean cut. How about using
> a
> formica blade on the sabre saw? I don't really want to spend $20 on a
> fine
> toothed circular saw blade but if this is the right way to do it then so
> be
> it. Any suggestions? Also, are there any tricks, like tape the cut line
> first, or cut face down or something?
>
> Oh, of course I will be covering much of the cut lines with moulding, but
> not all of it.

I'd be inclined to get something like the Freud TKR303 blade, place the good
side of the sheet down, and use a straight edge clamp to guide the saw.

John

DW

"Dan White"

in reply to "Dan White" on 04/02/2005 9:05 PM

05/02/2005 9:02 AM


"Dave Jackson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you had the choice of doing a hack job with what you have now, or a
first
> class job for another $20, which would you choose? Get a finish blade for
> the circular saw to do most cutting. Save the downcut jigsaw blade for
> cutting out for electrical devices, etc. I'm assuming you have 3/8"
> beadboard. If you still have problems with splintery cuts, slow the cut
> down. And it couldn't hurt to cut face down either. Hope this
helps! --dave
>

Yes, thanks.

dwhite


>
>
> "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hi. I have to cut 9 4x9 panels of beadboard to be used as wainscoating.
> > I
> > have a circular saw, sabre saw, sawsall, and Dremel. I'm wondering what
> > you
> > think would be the best combination of speed and fineness of cut. I
want
> > a
> > clean cut but only have a ripsaw on my circular. I don't think I'll be
> > using the sawsall for this one, either! Anyway the beadboard will be
> > stained and glazed before cutting so I want a clean cut. How about
using
> > a
> > formica blade on the sabre saw? I don't really want to spend $20 on a
> > fine
> > toothed circular saw blade but if this is the right way to do it then so
> > be
> > it. Any suggestions? Also, are there any tricks, like tape the cut
line
> > first, or cut face down or something?
> >
> > Oh, of course I will be covering much of the cut lines with moulding,
but
> > not all of it.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > dwhite
> >
> >
>
>

DW

"Dan White"

in reply to "Dan White" on 04/02/2005 9:05 PM

05/02/2005 9:04 AM

"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you are covering all the edges, the jig saw will probably be your best
> bet. Us a high quality, job specific blade, Bosch would be a good choice.

It is possible that I won't be covering the top portion on one wall.
However, there is already a stainless lip on that part of the wall, so it
kind of acts as a moulding. If I can get a clean cut close to this, then I
won't have to cover it.

dwhite


>
> "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hi. I have to cut 9 4x9 panels of beadboard to be used as wainscoating.
> > I
> > have a circular saw, sabre saw, sawsall, and Dremel. I'm wondering what
> > you
> > think would be the best combination of speed and fineness of cut. I
want
> > a
> > clean cut but only have a ripsaw on my circular. I don't think I'll be
> > using the sawsall for this one, either! Anyway the beadboard will be
> > stained and glazed before cutting so I want a clean cut. How about
using
> > a
> > formica blade on the sabre saw? I don't really want to spend $20 on a
> > fine
> > toothed circular saw blade but if this is the right way to do it then so
> > be
> > it. Any suggestions? Also, are there any tricks, like tape the cut
line
> > first, or cut face down or something?
> >
> > Oh, of course I will be covering much of the cut lines with moulding,
but
> > not all of it.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > dwhite
> >
> >
>
>

Lr

"Leon"

in reply to "Dan White" on 04/02/2005 9:05 PM

05/02/2005 1:25 PM

If you are covering all the edges, the jig saw will probably be your best
bet. Us a high quality, job specific blade, Bosch would be a good choice.

"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi. I have to cut 9 4x9 panels of beadboard to be used as wainscoating.
> I
> have a circular saw, sabre saw, sawsall, and Dremel. I'm wondering what
> you
> think would be the best combination of speed and fineness of cut. I want
> a
> clean cut but only have a ripsaw on my circular. I don't think I'll be
> using the sawsall for this one, either! Anyway the beadboard will be
> stained and glazed before cutting so I want a clean cut. How about using
> a
> formica blade on the sabre saw? I don't really want to spend $20 on a
> fine
> toothed circular saw blade but if this is the right way to do it then so
> be
> it. Any suggestions? Also, are there any tricks, like tape the cut line
> first, or cut face down or something?
>
> Oh, of course I will be covering much of the cut lines with moulding, but
> not all of it.
>
> Thanks,
> dwhite
>
>

DW

"Dan White"

in reply to "Dan White" on 04/02/2005 9:05 PM

05/02/2005 9:00 AM

"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I don't really want to spend $20 on a fine
> > toothed circular saw blade but if this is the right way to do it then so
> > be
> > it.
>
> If you don't want to spend $20 for the right tool to do the job right,you
> have two choices:
>
> 1. Wait until a family member dies and see if you inherit a good blade
> 2. Hope that for your birthday you get a gift certificate for Hacks R Us.
>

OK, OK you made your point! I just figured something like the right jigsaw
blade would to the trick maybe even better than the circular blade. Like I
said, if circular is the best option, then I'd do that.

thanks, (I think) :)
dwhite

UA

Unisaw A100

in reply to "Dan White" on 04/02/2005 9:05 PM

05/02/2005 11:46 AM

Cut with anything you want and cover the bottom edge with
base and the top with chair rail like God and Al Gore had
intended.

UA100

DJ

"Dave Jackson"

in reply to "Dan White" on 04/02/2005 9:05 PM

05/02/2005 3:46 AM

If you had the choice of doing a hack job with what you have now, or a first
class job for another $20, which would you choose? Get a finish blade for
the circular saw to do most cutting. Save the downcut jigsaw blade for
cutting out for electrical devices, etc. I'm assuming you have 3/8"
beadboard. If you still have problems with splintery cuts, slow the cut
down. And it couldn't hurt to cut face down either. Hope this helps! --dave



"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi. I have to cut 9 4x9 panels of beadboard to be used as wainscoating.
> I
> have a circular saw, sabre saw, sawsall, and Dremel. I'm wondering what
> you
> think would be the best combination of speed and fineness of cut. I want
> a
> clean cut but only have a ripsaw on my circular. I don't think I'll be
> using the sawsall for this one, either! Anyway the beadboard will be
> stained and glazed before cutting so I want a clean cut. How about using
> a
> formica blade on the sabre saw? I don't really want to spend $20 on a
> fine
> toothed circular saw blade but if this is the right way to do it then so
> be
> it. Any suggestions? Also, are there any tricks, like tape the cut line
> first, or cut face down or something?
>
> Oh, of course I will be covering much of the cut lines with moulding, but
> not all of it.
>
> Thanks,
> dwhite
>
>

DW

"Dan White"

in reply to "Dan White" on 04/02/2005 9:05 PM

05/02/2005 7:16 PM

"John" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Considering the cost of the beadboard, it is just plain stupid to go
> cheap on the project over buying a new blade for the circular saw to
> get a good cut edge
>
> Screw up a couple cuts and have to buy new panels of beadboard and
> you will spend close to what buying the right blade would cost in the
> first place
>

Yes, of course this is right. My point was kind of that I didn't want to
spend $20 on a blade for the circular saw to find out later that I would
have gotten a much better cut with a different blade on the saber saw.
That's why I listed a few saws I had. Anyway, it is mute because I got a
fine toothed circular blade for $5. I'll give it a careful test before
using on the bead board.

Thanks!
dwhite



> John
>
>
> On Sat, 05 Feb 2005 03:57:32 GMT, "John Grossbohlin"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> Hi. I have to cut 9 4x9 panels of beadboard to be used as
wainscoating.
> >> I
> >> have a circular saw, sabre saw, sawsall, and Dremel. I'm wondering
what
> >> you
> >> think would be the best combination of speed and fineness of cut. I
want
> >> a
> >> clean cut but only have a ripsaw on my circular. I don't think I'll be
> >> using the sawsall for this one, either! Anyway the beadboard will be
> >> stained and glazed before cutting so I want a clean cut. How about
using
> >> a
> >> formica blade on the sabre saw? I don't really want to spend $20 on a
> >> fine
> >> toothed circular saw blade but if this is the right way to do it then
so
> >> be
> >> it. Any suggestions? Also, are there any tricks, like tape the cut
line
> >> first, or cut face down or something?
> >>
> >> Oh, of course I will be covering much of the cut lines with moulding,
but
> >> not all of it.
>
>

Jj

John

in reply to "Dan White" on 04/02/2005 9:05 PM

05/02/2005 10:21 AM

Considering the cost of the beadboard, it is just plain stupid to go
cheap on the project over buying a new blade for the circular saw to
get a good cut edge

Screw up a couple cuts and have to buy new panels of beadboard and
you will spend close to what buying the right blade would cost in the
first place

John


On Sat, 05 Feb 2005 03:57:32 GMT, "John Grossbohlin"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Hi. I have to cut 9 4x9 panels of beadboard to be used as wainscoating.
>> I
>> have a circular saw, sabre saw, sawsall, and Dremel. I'm wondering what
>> you
>> think would be the best combination of speed and fineness of cut. I want
>> a
>> clean cut but only have a ripsaw on my circular. I don't think I'll be
>> using the sawsall for this one, either! Anyway the beadboard will be
>> stained and glazed before cutting so I want a clean cut. How about using
>> a
>> formica blade on the sabre saw? I don't really want to spend $20 on a
>> fine
>> toothed circular saw blade but if this is the right way to do it then so
>> be
>> it. Any suggestions? Also, are there any tricks, like tape the cut line
>> first, or cut face down or something?
>>
>> Oh, of course I will be covering much of the cut lines with moulding, but
>> not all of it.

EP

"Edwin Pawlowski"

in reply to "Dan White" on 04/02/2005 9:05 PM

05/02/2005 3:11 AM


"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I don't really want to spend $20 on a fine
> toothed circular saw blade but if this is the right way to do it then so
> be
> it.

If you don't want to spend $20 for the right tool to do the job right,you
have two choices:

1. Wait until a family member dies and see if you inherit a good blade
2. Hope that for your birthday you get a gift certificate for Hacks R Us.


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