I'm getting some white pine milled into 12" wide boards for flooring.
The plan is to simply butt joint and nail with cut nails, no t&g. The
guy at the mill said he's seen it work with minimal problems. I want
a rustic look, but am I setting myself up for disappointment? will I
get cupping? would a shiplap joint be better?
On Sep 30, 7:53=A0pm, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
> Drying?
>
> Thickness?
>
> Subflooring?
>
> HVAC system/area?
>
> It's basically what was done for years, but usually w/ thicker planks
> and before tight houses and central heat/air that really cause major
> rapid humidity changes.
>
> There will be gaps owing to that wide of a board--roughly 1/8" each and
> will have to leave sufficient room to handle it or it will buckle.
>
> The shiplap or other joint would at least minimize the depth of these.
Seems like that pretty well covers it. Just to add a bit, I would put
it over subfloor of some type, as the floor will flex since it is
white pine.
Which makes me ask, why white pine? It is really soft, so it will
have little abrasion resistance or endurance. It moves a lot; this
means it will deteriorate your finish more quickly.
Down here in the south, there are a LOT of old buildings that have
wood floors. Houses have white oak; stores, dance halls, and some of
the commercial buildings have pine floors installed 100 years ago.
But that pine is Southern Yellow Pine, not white pine. The SYP will
wear like iron if you can get some close grained stuff. If it were
me, no matter my finish I wouldn't be looking at white pine. Save it
for furniture, projects, etc.
Robert
Doug wrote:
> I'm getting some white pine milled into 12" wide boards for flooring.
> The plan is to simply butt joint and nail with cut nails, no t&g. The
> guy at the mill said he's seen it work with minimal problems. I want
> a rustic look, but am I setting myself up for disappointment? will I
> get cupping? would a shiplap joint be better?
Drying?
Thickness?
Subflooring?
HVAC system/area?
It's basically what was done for years, but usually w/ thicker planks
and before tight houses and central heat/air that really cause major
rapid humidity changes.
There will be gaps owing to that wide of a board--roughly 1/8" each and
will have to leave sufficient room to handle it or it will buckle.
The shiplap or other joint would at least minimize the depth of these.
--
[email protected] wrote:
...
> Which makes me ask, why white pine? It is really soft, so it will
> have little abrasion resistance or endurance. It moves a lot; this
> means it will deteriorate your finish more quickly.
>
> Down here in the south, there are a LOT of old buildings that have
> wood floors. Houses have white oak; stores, dance halls, and some of
> the commercial buildings have pine floors installed 100 years ago.
>
> But that pine is Southern Yellow Pine, not white pine. ...
If he can get 12" boards at the mill, I would presume that means he's in
the NE. If so, it's traditional and while shows denting and wear more
than harder woods of course, I would also presume that characteristic is
part of the desired rustic look...
Those characteristics, of course, are why I asked the question of
thickness/subflooring. Only time will tell if OP comes back w/ any
further input or not...I'd be curious about location and grade and cost
of the material as quality white pine is almost pure unobtainium here
last time I tried to buy some 5/4 for window stock...
--
On Tue, 30 Sep 2008 19:53:38 -0500, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>Doug wrote:
>> I'm getting some white pine milled into 12" wide boards for flooring.
>> The plan is to simply butt joint and nail with cut nails, no t&g. The
>> guy at the mill said he's seen it work with minimal problems. I want
>> a rustic look, but am I setting myself up for disappointment? will I
>> get cupping? would a shiplap joint be better?
>
>Drying?
>
>Thickness?
>
>Subflooring?
>
>HVAC system/area?
>
>It's basically what was done for years, but usually w/ thicker planks
>and before tight houses and central heat/air that really cause major
>rapid humidity changes.
>
>There will be gaps owing to that wide of a board--roughly 1/8" each and
>will have to leave sufficient room to handle it or it will buckle.
>
>The shiplap or other joint would at least minimize the depth of these.
I think I'd try to T&G them - and lay them heart side down whenever
possible so they cup up in the middle insted of the edge.
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