It turns out that the 240VAC motor I asked about was NOT a "saw motor"
but the motor on a compressor that is labled as a Compressor Motor.
Problem that motivated the questions about the 240 VAC vs. 220/230 VAC
was that the motor would run the compressor pump for a while, then
stop.
The motor has two capacitors mounted on top.
We assume that one is a "start" and the other is a "run" capacitor.
We know nothing about motors - but thought replacing the "run"
capacitor might solve the problem of the motor running a bit, then
simply stopping.
Of course, the forgoing is hearsay. I never watched this happen and
cannot say beyond a doubt that the auto reset didn't stop it (frankly,
I just thought about it.) The motor does have a little red button
similar to that on my RAS motor that "pops" when I over strain the
motor for instance.
So, the question is (addressed to those who actually know about such
things, please): "What happens when the "run" capacitor goes bad?
And, "Is it likely that a bad capacitor would result in the motor
running a while (Pressure gets to about 20#), then simply stopping?"
Thanks for taking the time to read this.
"Hoosierpopi" wrote:
> It turns out that the 240VAC motor I asked about was NOT a "saw
> motor"
> but the motor on a compressor that is labled as a Compressor Motor.
>
> Problem that motivated the questions about the 240 VAC vs. 220/230
> VAC
> was that the motor would run the compressor pump for a while, then
> stop.
>
> The motor has two capacitors mounted on top.
>
> We assume that one is a "start" and the other is a "run" capacitor.
>
> We know nothing about motors - but thought replacing the "run"
> capacitor might solve the problem of the motor running a bit, then
> simply stopping.
>
> Of course, the forgoing is hearsay. I never watched this happen and
> cannot say beyond a doubt that the auto reset didn't stop it
> (frankly,
> I just thought about it.) The motor does have a little red button
> similar to that on my RAS motor that "pops" when I over strain the
> motor for instance.
>
> So, the question is (addressed to those who actually know about such
> things, please): "What happens when the "run" capacitor goes bad?
>
> And, "Is it likely that a bad capacitor would result in the motor
> running a while (Pressure gets to about 20#), then simply stopping?"
------------------------
Sounds like you are torque limited which could happen with a defective
"run" cap.
Lew
Hoosierpopi wrote:
> It turns out that the 240VAC motor I asked about was NOT a "saw motor"
> but the motor on a compressor that is labled as a Compressor Motor.
>
> Problem that motivated the questions about the 240 VAC vs. 220/230 VAC
> was that the motor would run the compressor pump for a while, then
> stop.
>
> The motor has two capacitors mounted on top.
>
> We assume that one is a "start" and the other is a "run" capacitor.
>
> We know nothing about motors - but thought replacing the "run"
> capacitor might solve the problem of the motor running a bit, then
> simply stopping.
>
Maybe. But if as you say, it would run the compressor for a while and then
stop, I'd also look at things like bad bearings. Just hard to say from the
kind of description available at this point.
> Of course, the forgoing is hearsay. I never watched this happen and
> cannot say beyond a doubt that the auto reset didn't stop it (frankly,
> I just thought about it.) The motor does have a little red button
> similar to that on my RAS motor that "pops" when I over strain the
> motor for instance.
>
Sure you can - if you didn't have to reset the little red button, then it
didn't pop.
> So, the question is (addressed to those who actually know about such
> things, please): "What happens when the "run" capacitor goes bad?
Just an aside, and not an insult... It always amuses me when people who by
their own admission don't know about something, feel qualified to make a
statement about only wanting answers from those who "are" qualified. Makes
one wonder how they would be able to discern the difference...
>
> And, "Is it likely that a bad capacitor would result in the motor
> running a while (Pressure gets to about 20#), then simply stopping?"
Yeah - could be, but it could also be other things... Real helpful, huh?
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
This depends on how the "run" cap goes defective.
Usually caps just go open circuit and your motor would just stop after the
initial start up.
The cap culd become electrically leaky and the motor would probably slow
down and grind to a halt. The cap should be warm after this happens.
The cap could be shorted out and your motor would probably lock up, quickly,
as soon as the start cycle was complete.
For the $10-15 is costs it would be a good shot-in-the-dark to try. They can
be tested but this is not always conclusive depending on how many tests are
run on it. Is the rubber cap on the end blown off or any fluid leaked out?
"Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:18416c5b-afcd-4bc1-8210-b62ce8a9bcab@d37g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
It turns out that the 240VAC motor I asked about was NOT a "saw motor"
but the motor on a compressor that is labled as a Compressor Motor.
Problem that motivated the questions about the 240 VAC vs. 220/230 VAC
was that the motor would run the compressor pump for a while, then
stop.
The motor has two capacitors mounted on top.
We assume that one is a "start" and the other is a "run" capacitor.
We know nothing about motors - but thought replacing the "run"
capacitor might solve the problem of the motor running a bit, then
simply stopping.
Of course, the forgoing is hearsay. I never watched this happen and
cannot say beyond a doubt that the auto reset didn't stop it (frankly,
I just thought about it.) The motor does have a little red button
similar to that on my RAS motor that "pops" when I over strain the
motor for instance.
So, the question is (addressed to those who actually know about such
things, please): "What happens when the "run" capacitor goes bad?
And, "Is it likely that a bad capacitor would result in the motor
running a while (Pressure gets to about 20#), then simply stopping?"
Thanks for taking the time to read this.
Hoosierpopi wrote:
...
> So, the question is (addressed to those who actually know about such
> things, please): "What happens when the "run" capacitor goes bad?
>
> And, "Is it likely that a bad capacitor would result in the motor
> running a while (Pressure gets to about 20#), then simply stopping?"
...
Besides the other comments, if it trips is it hot and where? For
example and specifically, are bearings bad and binding when get hot?
--
On 7/9/2010 2:05 PM, Hoosierpopi wrote:
> Thank you to all. I will revisit the neighbor's motor and see the
> problem for myself. I'll open it up and look at the caps and see if
> there is any apparent damage - and I'll check for excessive heat and
> listen for mechanical issues.
>
> Thanks again.
>
Well , after your episode with the electric drill and your hair , I'd
stay well away from any thing electrical .
The problem with the compressor could be the pressure switch that is
supposed to shut the motor off when the pressure in the tank gets to a
pre-determined setting could be ratshit (rs)
Or the tank could be full of water as well from condensation build up
over time and not enough space in the tank for any compressed air.
I have experienced this phenomena before.
First thing I would do is open the drain cock on the bottom of the tank
and see how much water comes out.
--
Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."
[email protected]