Board n' Baton siding question

>Subject: Board n' Baton siding question
>From: "Bryan Berguson" [email protected]

Just reminds me - Did some board and
batten work back in the late 80's for a
guy who would buy houses and quick
rehab them to convert to SRO housing.
Did as good a job as I could until he
wanted me to run romex between the
new & old siding, at which point I quit
- God, I wonder what those places
look like now! My only advice: at least
use galv screws to fasten the battens,
not nails.

> >When putting board n' baton
>
> ahem. that would be board and batten siding.

Thanks for the correction! I was so involved with thinking of the best way
to do it that I never considered the correct spelling. Board and baton
would make a silly looking siding now wouldn't it.


> I'd scarf them. basically a butt joint, but angled at about 30 degrees
> so that the joint drains to the outside of the building.
>
That's the way I was leaning but was looking for some support on the idea.

Thanks!!!

Bryan

"Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> And put a backer behind the joint, or make it on a purlin.
> I think it's nuts not to use a stain, or at least clear preservative,
> preferably on both sides, unless you really don't want it ot last. Try to
> keep the bottom ends dry and away from the ground.
> Wilson
>
>

Yes, on the backer board. It's a 2X8 that doubles as a floor joist for the
upstairs "play room" for my boy. Bottom ends will be well away from the
ground except on one corner. I have to do some digging there. The floor
system is all treated so that's not a problem.

Bryan

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 20:43:32 -0400, "Bryan Berguson"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>When putting board n' baton

ahem. that would be board and batten siding.


> siding on a building, and the boards aren't long
>enough to go from top to bottom, what is the proper way to "join" the
>boards. Butt joints would be the easiest but I think that be a place for
>rot to start. Using rough pine with no preservatives btw.

I'd scarf them. basically a butt joint, but angled at about 30 degrees
so that the joint drains to the outside of the building.


>
>Do you overlap a couple of inches? How do you finish the corners where the
>gap would be?
>
>Do you cut a 45 on each board so the overlap doesn't stick out an inch?
>This would take more time but would leave a cleaner looking building.
>Should shed the water and keep it from rotting too.... I think.
>
>What would you do?
>
>Any help would be appreciated.
>
>Bryan
>RSG Roll call: http://rec-sport-golf.com?rc=bergusonb
>

And put a backer behind the joint, or make it on a purlin.
I think it's nuts not to use a stain, or at least clear preservative,
preferably on both sides, unless you really don't want it ot last. Try to
keep the bottom ends dry and away from the ground.
Wilson


"Bryan Berguson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> > >When putting board n' baton
> >
> > ahem. that would be board and batten siding.
>
> Thanks for the correction! I was so involved with thinking of the best
way
> to do it that I never considered the correct spelling. Board and baton
> would make a silly looking siding now wouldn't it.
>
>
> > I'd scarf them. basically a butt joint, but angled at about 30 degrees
> > so that the joint drains to the outside of the building.
> >
> That's the way I was leaning but was looking for some support on the
idea.
>
> Thanks!!!
>
> Bryan
>
>

I have faced exactly this problem in the past. I opted to splice the
pieces. Since we are talking about rough pine, the pine shrunk as it dried
and now there is a horizontal water trap. On my latest building with B&B, I
used full length boards; that meant 16 footers for the end peaks but at
least there will not be a water trap. IMHO there is nothing wrong with
nailing battens on. I use 2 1/4 galvanized ring nails.