In gluing boards together to make a 30" by 7' top, a few months ago, someone
(sorry, I don't recall who) suggested including a threaded steel rod to
guarantee strength. I just happend to pass by some today, so I came home
with a 72" piece, 3/8" in diameter. It occured to me that I could face
"alignment challenges" if try to use more than 1 steel rod, especially if I
drill holes that are precisely 3/8". On the other hand, the steel rod (s)
may help with alighnment when gluing.
I expect to use 2 nuts on top of a washer at the end of each threaded rod
and cover them for the sake of appearence.
Bottom line: Do you advise, 1, 2 or 4 threaded (29") steel rods?
Thanks,
Bill
P.S. In case anyone is interested and hasn't seen them, I posted skeletal
design diagrams I made with SketchUp at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking in
the thread "Second SketchUp".
"Bill" wrote:
> Yes, I'm going to follow the glue-up schedule you suggested Lew.
> The only deviation
> I was considering was flipping every other board side-ways so that
> all of the grain runs
> in the same direction rather than flipping them end-over-end.
This top will be your basic Sherman Tank.
I wouldn't sweat grain orientation.
A flying red horse won't see the grain orientation from a 1,000 ft.
> It's about time to pack up my new antique planes for the winter as
> its starting to get cool
> here in the midwest.
That's why I left<G>.
What is your part of the "Midwest"?
Lew
"Bill" wrote:
> In gluing boards together to make a 30" by 7' top, a few months ago,
> someone (sorry, I don't recall who) suggested including a threaded
> steel rod to guarantee strength. I just happend to pass by some
> today, so I came home with a 72" piece, 3/8" in diameter. It
> occured to me that I could face "alignment challenges" if try to use
> more than 1 steel rod, especially if I drill holes that are
> precisely 3/8". On the other hand, the steel rod (s) may help with
> alighnment when gluing.
>
> I expect to use 2 nuts on top of a washer at the end of each
> threaded rod and cover them for the sake of appearence.
>
> Bottom line: Do you advise, 1, 2 or 4 threaded (29") steel rods?
==================================
If you follow the glue-up schedule I suggested when this bench project
first started, the threaded rods become a "belt and suspenders"
situation.
I would not install them until after final machining at the drum
sander takes place.
For this bench, rods on 18" centers would seem to be about right.
Lew
"Bill" wrote:
> What sort of VISES should we put on this? 7" quick-release for a
> front vise? bigger?
Yes and Yes.
Funny you should ask.
The WoodSmithShop just built a work bench, mounted a vice, then added
dog holes.
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/
Check the schedule in your area.
It may still be running.
Lew
On Oct 8, 4:41=A0pm, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
Placement, regardless the number of rods, should (and I suspect you've
thought of this) take into consideration the clamping dog holes, vise
parts, planned or intended.
.
Just use over sized holes on all the inner pieces and 13/32 for the
hole in each outer piece. It is the clamping strength that matters not
how tightly it is held internal.
On Oct 8, 1:41=A0pm, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
> In gluing boards together to make a 30" by 7' top, a few months ago, some=
one
> (sorry, I don't recall who) suggested including a threaded steel rod to
> guarantee strength. =A0I just happend to pass by some today, so I came ho=
me
> with a 72" piece, 3/8" in diameter. =A0It occured to me that I could face
> "alignment challenges" if try to use more than 1 steel rod, especially if=
I
> drill holes that are precisely 3/8". On the other hand, the steel rod (s)
> may help with alighnment when gluing.
>
> I expect to use 2 nuts on top of a washer at the end of each threaded rod
> and cover them for the sake of appearence.
>
> Bottom line: Do you advise, 1, 2 or 4 threaded (29") steel rods?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
> P.S. In case anyone is interested and hasn't seen them, I posted skeletal
> design diagrams I made with SketchUp at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking=
in
> the thread "Second SketchUp".
On Oct 8, 1:41=A0pm, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
> In gluing boards together to make a 30" by 7' top, a few months ago, some=
one
> (sorry, I don't recall who) suggested including a threaded steel rod to
> guarantee strength. =A0I just happend to pass by some today, so I came ho=
me
> with a 72" piece, 3/8" in diameter. =A0It occured to me that I could face
> "alignment challenges" if try to use more than 1 steel rod, especially if=
I
> drill holes that are precisely 3/8". On the other hand, the steel rod (s)
> may help with alighnment when gluing.
>
> I expect to use 2 nuts on top of a washer at the end of each threaded rod
> and cover them for the sake of appearence.
>
> Bottom line: Do you advise, 1, 2 or 4 threaded (29") steel rods?
I advise 0 threaded rods. They are not needed and don't add anything.
If you need to align the pieces, use cauls.
Luigi
On Oct 8, 5:29=A0pm, FrozenNorth <[email protected]>
wrote:
> RicodJour wrote:
> > On Oct 8, 4:41 pm, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> P.S. In case anyone is interested and hasn't seen them, I posted skele=
tal
> >> design diagrams I made with SketchUp at alt.binaries.pictures.woodwork=
ing in
> >> the thread "Second SketchUp".
>
> > From Google:
>
> > Google Groups Home
> > =A0 =A0Cannot find alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
>
> > There is no group named alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.
> > =95 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0The link you followed may be broken or misspelled.
> > =95 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0Search for alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
>
> > ?! Mutha%$^%$ Google.
>
> Google doesn't carry any binary groups.
Yeah, I know, or at least I had and then I had forgotten. I had the
link to the hosting site bookmarked on my other laptop but I haven't
switched that stuff over.
Still, Mutha%$^%$ Google. :)
R
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> I'm open for suggestions though. I'm finding that building a "small
> factory" isn't too easy--and not too cheap either! ; )
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
There are some strategies you can adopt to reduce the cost of materials.
Mine is buying at auctions, - liquidations, deceased estates, surplus
inventory, etc.
Using a few basic strategies, it's often possible to buy for a fraction of
retail cost.
It has served me very well. My last lumber purchase was about 5 years ago, -
I ended up with over 6 tons of structural pine and Jarrah for about AUD$300.
(That would have been about US$180 back then.) That's way less than firewood
price. Still got about 2 years supply left.
My advice to those new to auction buying is as follows:
1/. Attend at least 2 or 3 auctions without buying. This gives you a better
idea of how they are conducted and a general idea of the prices being
fetched.
2/. When you do feel confident enough to bid, make sure you have established
a maximum amount that you are prepared to go to. Stick to that. Absolutely!
If your limits are below the market, revise them and wait for the next
auction. Never change them while the auction is in progress.
3/. Research. Know what you are bidding on. Once it is knocked down to you,
you have no recourse. (That's how it operates here in Oz, don't know about
where you are.) I once bid on some cans of paint that I had no intention of
buying, but they were so cheap I put my hand up. There were about ten 4
litre cans of white paint in a stack. I got them for $1 each. When I went to
collect them, I found they were a display sample and there was over 100 cans
of the stuff! It was all listed in the catalogue but I hadn't researched it.
(Paint anyone?)
4/. Be prepared to bid against the dealers, - they are buying to re-sell and
you are competing with them. This means you are going to be buying in bulk,
but in general, very cheaply. The average Mom and Pop can't handle the
bigger lots, so it's basically you and the dealers. They basically set the
prices. Your task is to make a nuisance of yourself. Make no secret of the
fact that you are merely after one or two bulk lots and then you will be
satisfied. If a lot is within your price range, make a bid just before it is
knocked down. One bid only. If a dealer really wants it, he will have to
raise his bid. Do this with any lot that falls within your parameters. This
will get the attention of the dealers. If you don't end up with anything,
you will have cost the trade bidders the price of 2 bids (Yours and theirs
that they were forced to increase.) Over time, chances are that they will
get annoyed enough to let you have a couple of lots just to see what you
will do. Then you can go away happy. (This might take an auction or two to
achieve.)
5/. Be prepared to handle what you have bought. How will you transport it?
Where will you store it? Have you got the workshop facilities to turn it
into what you want?
6/. Most important of all, - have a really good story to tell your wife as
to why you have just arrived home with half a lumber yard in tow. : )
diggerop
On Oct 10, 6:40=A0pm, Steve Turner <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Han wrote:
> > ed_h <[email protected]> wrote in news:4f8d2a27-aa3b-4ecc-9c9e-
> > [email protected]:
>
> >> Bill--
>
> >> Though I used to use rods as you describe, I haven't for many years
> >> now because I came to believe they were unnecessary. =A0Even as an
> >> alignment aid, there are easier ways.
>
> >> Here's a workbench I made a few years ago. =A0No rods, and it's held u=
p
> >> well.
>
> >>http://bullfire.net/Bench/WP_Bench.html
>
> > Let me be the first to say "Beautiful!"
>
> Well since "beautiful" is already taken, let ME be the first to say
> "Awesome!" =A0:-)
Since I can't use beautiful and awesome, I'll just say WOW!
Luigi
On Fri, 6 Nov 2009 01:36:01 -0500, the infamous "Bill"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> ==================================
>> If you follow the glue-up schedule I suggested when this bench project
>> first started, the threaded rods become a "belt and suspenders" situation.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
>
>
>Okay, now lets consider that we have the 7' by 30" beast of a bench top.
>Since it is going to be made from glued 2" by 8" SYP lumber, ripped in half,
>it will still be over 3" thick after it has visited the drum sander.
>
>
>What sort of VISES should we put on this? 7" quick-release for a front
>vise? bigger?
Yeah, and adorn it with hardwood inserts. Once you get woodworking,
you'll determine if you need a large front vise after all.
>Tail-vises (screws?) seem tougher. Is this benchtop going to maintain the
>tolerances for which this makes sense?
Sure. Just put a coat of finish on all surfaces of the top, top and
bottom. That will help ensure that it doesn't warp on you.
Um, vises don't really maintain tolerances, per se. They're work
holders. Just make sure they're installed in-plane and are solid.
>Frankly, getting these installed properly seems like a challenge, since
>accuracy is do important.
Yes and no. You can work with a skewed vise, butcha better be aware
that it is skewed. Just take your time and check your work with
squares. It just takes time.
>I've been trying to "read-up" on vises but it tain't easy. Some of them
>come with no screws or directions too, from what I've read.
>I should probably go back to "The Workbench Book"...
Very good idea.
>I'm open for suggestions though. I'm finding that building a "small
>factory" isn't too easy--and not too cheap either! ; )
Cha CHING! You got that right. But lots of us
cheapas^H^H^H^H^H^H^Hfrugal woodworkers have accomplished things. Find
out where you can skimp on tools to save up for the expensive ones. I
buy Harbor Freight bar clamps for an eighth of what Jorgy wants, and
IMNSHO, they're just as usable.
Hang in there, Bill. It gets easier once you get over the sticker
shocks. Use your creativeness to overcome that.
--
"To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of
ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical."
-- Thomas Jefferson
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "whit3rd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:b97e479d-9d1f-427c-92ee-db16f9299dec@h13g2000yqk.googlegroups.com...
> On Oct 8, 5:34 pm, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Well, it looks like I'll return the threaded rod, and get my $5 back,
>> unless
>> someone can suggest
>> what it might come in handy for... Maybe carp spearing?
>
> Clamping, of course. I'd use the rod and holes for clamping 'til the
> glue hits full strength, then remove the rods for next project
> (there's
> a bundle of such rods in the corner of my shop).
>
> If you were using green wood, the rods could hold things together, and
> the nuts could be adjusted to take up slack, as well. Green wood
> doesn't take glue well.
>
> Most of my glue-ups of repetitive sorts (edges on plywood) are
> clamped with blocks-and-threaded-rod assemblies, which are
> easy to fabricate, by the dozen, as long as the threaded rod holds out.
>
> ---
>
> I appreciated reading your answer. Thanks! It reminds me that some use
> homemade
> block-clamps like this in violin making--they just don't need 3/8"
> diameter!
>
> --Bill
>
Another possible use:
I used threaded rod in the base of the workbench I built years ago.
(And still use today.)
My intent was firstly to eliminate racking and secondly to facilitate quick
and easy assembly and disassembly as I had a boat re-building project
on the go and would move all of my woodworking gear down to the
boatyard evrey time I had a week to spare, then back home when I needed
to go back to work. It worked really well.
The stretchers are dowelled but not glued to the uprights. There is a
channel
routed on the inside of each stretcher to house the rod, which then passes
through
the uprights and has a nut and washer on each end, (recessed.)
The URL below shows a *very* rough sketch, which might explain it a little
more clearly
http://www.flickr.com/photos/32473839@N02/3996563278/
On 10/08/2009 02:41 PM, Bill wrote:
> In gluing boards together to make a 30" by 7' top, a few months ago, someone
> (sorry, I don't recall who) suggested including a threaded steel rod to
> guarantee strength.
> Bottom line: Do you advise, 1, 2 or 4 threaded (29") steel rods?
Personally...none. The wood will want to expand and contract with
humidity changes. The steel rod won't.
I built my bench with a laminated maple slab top, no end caps, no
aprons. It sits on two trestle ends. Very similar to the knockdown
Holtzhapffel by Chris Schwarz.
Chris
RicodJour wrote:
> On Oct 8, 4:41 pm, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> P.S. In case anyone is interested and hasn't seen them, I posted skeletal
>> design diagrams I made with SketchUp at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking in
>> the thread "Second SketchUp".
>
> From Google:
>
>
> Google Groups Home
> Cannot find alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
>
> There is no group named alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.
> The link you followed may be broken or misspelled.
> Search for alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
>
> ?! Mutha%$^%$ Google.
>
Google doesn't carry any binary groups.
--
Froz...
ed_h <[email protected]> wrote in news:4f8d2a27-aa3b-4ecc-9c9e-
[email protected]:
> Bill--
>
> Though I used to use rods as you describe, I haven't for many years
> now because I came to believe they were unnecessary. Even as an
> alignment aid, there are easier ways.
>
> Here's a workbench I made a few years ago. No rods, and it's held up
> well.
>
> http://bullfire.net/Bench/WP_Bench.html
>
Let me be the first to say "Beautiful!"
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
On Oct 8, 5:34=A0pm, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > "Luigi Zanasi" wrote:
>
> > I advise 0 threaded rods. They are not needed and don't add anything.
>
> > Agreed.
>
> > Luigi
>
> Well, it looks like I'll return the threaded rod, and get my $5 back, unl=
ess
> someone can suggest
> what it might come in handy for... =A0 Maybe carp spearing?
Clamping, of course. I'd use the rod and holes for clamping 'til the
glue hits full strength, then remove the rods for next project
(there's
a bundle of such rods in the corner of my shop).
If you were using green wood, the rods could hold things together, and
the nuts could be adjusted to take up slack, as well. Green wood
doesn't take glue well.
Most of my glue-ups of repetitive sorts (edges on plywood) are
clamped with blocks-and-threaded-rod assemblies, which are
easy to fabricate, by the dozen, as long as the threaded rod holds out.
On Oct 8, 4:41=A0pm, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> P.S. In case anyone is interested and hasn't seen them, I posted skeletal
> design diagrams I made with SketchUp at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking=
in
> the thread "Second SketchUp".
From Google:
Google Groups Home
Cannot find alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
There is no group named alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.
=95 The link you followed may be broken or misspelled.
=95 Search for alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
?! Mutha%$^%$ Google.
R
On Oct 8, 5:54=A0pm, tom <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Oct 8, 2:24 pm, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
> > On Oct 8, 4:41 pm, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > P.S. In case anyone is interested and hasn't seen them, I posted skel=
etal
> > > design diagrams I made with SketchUp at alt.binaries.pictures.woodwor=
king in
> > > the thread "Second SketchUp".
>
> > From Google:
>
> > Google Groups Home
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Cannot find alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
>
> > There is no group named alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.
> > =95 =A0 =A0 The link you followed may be broken or misspelled.
> > =95 =A0 =A0 Search for alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
>
> > ?! Mutha%$^%$ Google.
>
>
> Here's another link to something like ABPW- =A0http://www.delorie.com/woo=
d/abpw/
> Thanks, DJ!
Thanks, Tom.
R
On Oct 8, 2:24 pm, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Oct 8, 4:41 pm, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > P.S. In case anyone is interested and hasn't seen them, I posted skelet=
al
> > design diagrams I made with SketchUp at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworki=
ng in
> > the thread "Second SketchUp".
>
> From Google:
>
> Google Groups Home
> Cannot find alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
>
> There is no group named alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.
> =95 The link you followed may be broken or misspelled.
> =95 Search for alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
>
> ?! Mutha%$^%$ Google.
>
> R
Here's another link to something like ABPW- http://www.delorie.com/wood/a=
bpw/
Thanks, DJ!
Bill wrote:
> In gluing boards together to make a 30" by 7' top, a few months ago, someone
> (sorry, I don't recall who) suggested including a threaded steel rod to
> guarantee strength. I just happend to pass by some today, so I came home
> with a 72" piece, 3/8" in diameter. It occured to me that I could face
> "alignment challenges" if try to use more than 1 steel rod, especially if I
> drill holes that are precisely 3/8". On the other hand, the steel rod (s)
> may help with alighnment when gluing.
>
> I expect to use 2 nuts on top of a washer at the end of each threaded rod
> and cover them for the sake of appearence.
>
> Bottom line: Do you advise, 1, 2 or 4 threaded (29") steel rods?
I used 3 and was happy with the result. :-D
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Bill" wrote:
>
>> In gluing boards together to make a 30" by 7' top, a few months ago,
>> someone (sorry, I don't recall who) suggested including a threaded steel
>> rod to guarantee strength. I just happend to pass by some today, so I
>> came home with a 72" piece, 3/8" in diameter. It occured to me that I
>> could face "alignment challenges" if try to use more than 1 steel rod,
>> especially if I drill holes that are precisely 3/8". On the other hand,
>> the steel rod (s) may help with alighnment when gluing.
>>
>> I expect to use 2 nuts on top of a washer at the end of each threaded rod
>> and cover them for the sake of appearence.
>>
>> Bottom line: Do you advise, 1, 2 or 4 threaded (29") steel rods?
> ==================================
> If you follow the glue-up schedule I suggested when this bench project
> first started, the threaded rods become a "belt and suspenders" situation.
>
> I would not install them until after final machining at the drum sander
> takes place.
>
> For this bench, rods on 18" centers would seem to be about right.
>
> Lew
>
>
>
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Bill" wrote:
>
>> In gluing boards together to make a 30" by 7' top, a few months ago,
>> someone (sorry, I don't recall who) suggested including a threaded steel
>> rod to guarantee strength. I just happend to pass by some today, so I
>> came home with a 72" piece, 3/8" in diameter. It occured to me that I
>> could face "alignment challenges" if try to use more than 1 steel rod,
>> especially if I drill holes that are precisely 3/8". On the other hand,
>> the steel rod (s) may help with alighnment when gluing.
>>
>> I expect to use 2 nuts on top of a washer at the end of each threaded rod
>> and cover them for the sake of appearence.
>>
>> Bottom line: Do you advise, 1, 2 or 4 threaded (29") steel rods?
> ==================================
> If you follow the glue-up schedule I suggested when this bench project
> first started, the threaded rods become a "belt and suspenders" situation.
Yes, I'm going to follow the glue-up schedule you suggested Lew. The only
deviation
I was considering was flipping every other board side-ways so that all of
the grain runs
in the same direction rather than flipping them end-over-end.
I take it that "rods on 18 inch centers" means that the distance between the
centers of
consecutive rods is about 18"--so, 4 rods approximately equally spaced, with
one near
near each end. That's what I was considering.
See what you half-started? ; ) I'll surely consider other design details
of the bench while
I wait for spring. It should probably have a wood workers vise on the right
end, at least.
Or, I can just get my butt in gear designing a second bench...lol.
I've been learning about patching concrete too, and I'll be grinding
concrete, plastering
and painting. Then after I apply epoxy to the floor, I'll move in heavy
machinery... Just
a bunch of "1-day projects". In the meantime, I can find plenty to learn.
I have Tage Frid's
joinery book from the library, and others, and I'm still waiting on the
library for the book that
you recommended on boat building and joinery. There's always SketchUp too.
It's about time to pack up my new antique planes for the winter as its
starting to get cool
here in the midwest.
Bill
>
> I would not install them until after final machining at the drum sander
> takes place.
>
> For this bench, rods on 18" centers would seem to be about right.
>
> Lew
>
>
>
"Luigi Zanasi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Oct 8, 1:41 pm, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
> In gluing boards together to make a 30" by 7' top, a few months ago,
> someone
> (sorry, I don't recall who) suggested including a threaded steel rod to
> guarantee strength. I just happend to pass by some today, so I came home
> with a 72" piece, 3/8" in diameter. It occured to me that I could face
> "alignment challenges" if try to use more than 1 steel rod, especially if
> I
> drill holes that are precisely 3/8". On the other hand, the steel rod (s)
> may help with alighnment when gluing.
>
> I expect to use 2 nuts on top of a washer at the end of each threaded rod
> and cover them for the sake of appearence.
>
> Bottom line: Do you advise, 1, 2 or 4 threaded (29") steel rods?
I advise 0 threaded rods. They are not needed and don't add anything.
If you need to align the pieces, use cauls.
Luigi
Might they add support around the machinist's vise, an area which would be
subject
to some pounding?
Bill
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Luigi Zanasi" wrote:
>
> I advise 0 threaded rods. They are not needed and don't add anything.
>
> Agreed.
>
> Luigi
Well, it looks like I'll return the threaded rod, and get my $5 back, unless
someone can suggest
what it might come in handy for... Maybe carp spearing?
"whit3rd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:b97e479d-9d1f-427c-92ee-db16f9299dec@h13g2000yqk.googlegroups.com...
On Oct 8, 5:34 pm, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Well, it looks like I'll return the threaded rod, and get my $5 back,
> unless
> someone can suggest
> what it might come in handy for... Maybe carp spearing?
Clamping, of course. I'd use the rod and holes for clamping 'til the
glue hits full strength, then remove the rods for next project
(there's
a bundle of such rods in the corner of my shop).
If you were using green wood, the rods could hold things together, and
the nuts could be adjusted to take up slack, as well. Green wood
doesn't take glue well.
Most of my glue-ups of repetitive sorts (edges on plywood) are
clamped with blocks-and-threaded-rod assemblies, which are
easy to fabricate, by the dozen, as long as the threaded rod holds out.
---
I appreciated reading your answer. Thanks! It reminds me that some use
homemade
block-clamps like this in violin making--they just don't need 3/8" diameter!
--Bill
Han wrote:
> ed_h <[email protected]> wrote in news:4f8d2a27-aa3b-4ecc-9c9e-
> [email protected]:
>
>> Bill--
>>
>> Though I used to use rods as you describe, I haven't for many years
>> now because I came to believe they were unnecessary. Even as an
>> alignment aid, there are easier ways.
>>
>> Here's a workbench I made a few years ago. No rods, and it's held up
>> well.
>>
>> http://bullfire.net/Bench/WP_Bench.html
>>
> Let me be the first to say "Beautiful!"
Well since "beautiful" is already taken, let ME be the first to say
"Awesome!" :-)
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
"ed_h" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:4f8d2a27-aa3b-4ecc-9c9e-d9192363de21@m38g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
> Bill--
>
> Though I used to use rods as you describe, I haven't for many years
> now because I came to believe they were unnecessary. Even as an
> alignment aid, there are easier ways.
>
> Here's a workbench I made a few years ago. No rods, and it's held up
> well.
>
> http://bullfire.net/Bench/WP_Bench.html
It looks beautiful and it is inspiring. Thank you for sharing. I have
decided
against using the threaded rods for the reasons you mentioned.
Bill
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> ==================================
> If you follow the glue-up schedule I suggested when this bench project
> first started, the threaded rods become a "belt and suspenders" situation.
>
> Lew
>
>
Okay, now lets consider that we have the 7' by 30" beast of a bench top.
Since it is going to be made from glued 2" by 8" SYP lumber, ripped in half,
it will still be over 3" thick after it has visited the drum sander.
What sort of VISES should we put on this? 7" quick-release for a front
vise? bigger?
Tail-vises (screws?) seem tougher. Is this benchtop going to maintain the
tolerances for which this makes sense?
Frankly, getting these installed properly seems like a challenge, since
accuracy is do important.
I've been trying to "read-up" on vises but it tain't easy. Some of them
come with no screws or directions too, from what I've read.
I should probably go back to "The Workbench Book"...
I'm open for suggestions though. I'm finding that building a "small
factory" isn't too easy--and not too cheap either! ; )
Thanks,
Bill
"diggerop" <toobusy@themoment> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> 6/. Most important of all, - have a really good story to tell your wife as
> to why you have just arrived home with half a lumber yard in tow. : )
>
> diggerop
>
My wife will be happy as long as I don't want to talk about it.
When we go to Lowes, Menards, Harbor Freight, she waits in the
car with a book. Did I mention she doesn't want to talk about it?--no
matter how great a deal it was, or what I want to do with it. I could
be planning to build an ark for God, wouldn't matter. ; )
Bill
Following Lew's suggestion, I plan to rip some SYP 2 by 8 lumber in half,
glue the resultant pieces together with the factory cut side down, and sand
the down side to make a workbech top. It will thus be approximately
7.25/2 > 3.5 inches thick.
The Rockler 9" quick-release vise has drawn my attention. However it has a
maximum
top thickness of 2.75" inches. Since it's important to me to have the vise
level with the top
I have been contemplating a good way to cut the necessary "dado". What
makes this
tricky is that the best side is on the opposite site of the side that needs
to be cut!
One thought would be to put a nice board adjacent to the top and use it as
support
for the router. This might work fine for up to a few inches. Alternately, I
could just cut it and
shim it as necessary. My other ideas seem to break down because the surface
I wish
to cut on may not be flat or level. Always willing to listen to ideas...
--------
I've also been thinking about binding the benchtop with some hardwood. I
was thinking that this
might look good and it may add structural integrity to the front vise (the
rear jaw being seated
in hardwood rather than SYP). Is this latter point a valid concern?
Thank you for listening!
Bill
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Following Lew's suggestion, I plan to rip some SYP 2 by 8 lumber in half,
> glue the resultant pieces together with the factory cut side down, and
> sand
> the down side to make a workbech top. It will thus be approximately
> 7.25/2 > 3.5 inches thick.
>
> The Rockler 9" quick-release vise has drawn my attention. However it has
> a maximum
> top thickness of 2.75" inches. Since it's important to me to have the vise
> level with the top
> I have been contemplating a good way to cut the necessary "dado". What
> makes this
> tricky is that the best side is on the opposite site of the side that
> needs to be cut!
>
> One thought would be to put a nice board adjacent to the top and use it as
> support
> for the router. This might work fine for up to a few inches. Alternately,
> I could just cut it and
> shim it as necessary. My other ideas seem to break down because the
> surface I wish
> to cut on may not be flat or level.
...
> Thank you for listening!
> Bill
I was thinking of the possibility of using a "bridge". How deep can plunge
routers route (Dewalt 618)?
Bill
Bill wrote:
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "Luigi Zanasi" wrote:
>>
>> I advise 0 threaded rods. They are not needed and don't add anything.
>>
>> Agreed.
>>
>> Luigi
>
>
> Well, it looks like I'll return the threaded rod, and get my $5 back, unless
> someone can suggest
> what it might come in handy for... Maybe carp spearing?
>
>
I needed some storage for all kinds of material. I used two 1/2"
threaded rods, a 4" x 4" x 8', and two 1-1/2" 6' angle irons to hang a
4' x 8' OSB platform with 3/4" angle irons to support the edges from the
gar^h^h^Hshop ceiling. all kinds of crap can be stored up there much to
the OverLord/SWMBO's chagrin.
- Doug
On Fri, 6 Nov 2009 22:46:02 -0500, "Bill" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>My wife will be happy as long as I don't want to talk about it.
>When we go to Lowes, Menards, Harbor Freight, she waits in the
>car with a book. Did I mention she doesn't want to talk about it?--no
>matter how great a deal it was, or what I want to do with it. I could
>be planning to build an ark for God, wouldn't matter. ; )
Sound like a fine wife... just as long as she doesn't do the same
thing to you.
On 11 Oct 2009 01:08:10 GMT, the infamous Han <[email protected]>
scrawled the following:
>ed_h <[email protected]> wrote in news:4f8d2a27-aa3b-4ecc-9c9e-
>[email protected]:
>
>> Bill--
>>
>> Though I used to use rods as you describe, I haven't for many years
>> now because I came to believe they were unnecessary. Even as an
>> alignment aid, there are easier ways.
>>
>> Here's a workbench I made a few years ago. No rods, and it's held up
>> well.
>>
>> http://bullfire.net/Bench/WP_Bench.html
>>
>Let me be the first to say "Beautiful!"
I'll second that. I like the shop-built metal bits, too. Classy!
---
Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight
very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands.
It hopes we've learned something from yesterday.
--John Wayne (1907 - 1979)