about table saw. I have a Delta 10" contractor saw with 30" UniFence, =
exact model escapes me just now. The arbor has a flange that sandwiches =
the blade. once fixed to the arbor and, of course, one removable. The =
situation is when I install a dado blade for 3/4" dado, I am left with =
less than a full nut on the arbor. I don't know how safe this is but the =
saw is spec'd for full dado. The question is can/should the dado blade =
be installed without the outside arbor flange? This would leave only the =
nut in contact with the blade and, in my opinion, less safe than a full =
nut. What is the solution?=20
TIA
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ive wondered the same thing with my Craftsman saw. "Seems" to be okay
with
> just the nut.
>
>
That's pretty much standard at full thickness. The blades are pretty heavy
in section, so they pretty much act as their own washer.
"Juergen Hannappel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "George" <george@least> writes:
>
> > "toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >> Ive wondered the same thing with my Craftsman saw. "Seems" to be okay
> > with
> >> just the nut.
> >>
> >>
> >
> > That's pretty much standard at full thickness. The blades are pretty
heavy
> > in section, so they pretty much act as their own washer.
>
> I looked it up yesterday evening in a engineering book: The Washers
> are needed if the stuff you use the nut on is "soft" and tends to
> set. If you have a high quality screw and nut adding a washer will
> *decrease* the strength of the joint.
Did you look up load distribution? Seems that's what's important here.
Delta sells a "special" arbor nut set that has two arbor
nuts. One is a "combo" washer and nut and the other is
a single nut designed to be used with a dado set.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00004Y9IO/qid=1112129585/sr=8-2/ref=sr_8_xs_ap_i2_xgl60/002-2983369-5970409?v=glance&s=hi&n=507846
It is an "excellent" upgrade for anybody with a Delta saw.
SwampBug wrote:
> about table saw. I have a Delta 10" contractor saw with 30" UniFence, exact model escapes me just now. The arbor has a flange that sandwiches the blade. once fixed to the arbor and, of course, one removable. The situation is when I install a dado blade for 3/4" dado, I am left with less than a full nut on the arbor. I don't know how safe this is but the saw is spec'd for full dado. The question is can/should the dado blade be installed without the outside arbor flange? This would leave only the nut in contact with the blade and, in my opinion, less safe than a full nut. What is the solution?
> TIA
>
Thank you, , ,acceptable procedure is what i needed to know!
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
That is exactly what you're "meant" to do. I say that in quotes, =
because
there is no other way to do it safely. Using the nut alone without the
washer is perfectly fine. You need to get the nut at least several =
threads
onto the arbor, and tighten it down sufficiently. The safety issue with
using the washer and having the nut not seated properly is a LOT worse =
than
not having the washer - which only serves to offer a bit of stability to =
the
blade and doesn't keep the blade in place.
Mike
"SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:m2g2e.2391$Qz.567@okepread05...
about table saw. I have a Delta 10" contractor saw with 30" UniFence, =
exact
model escapes me just now. The arbor has a flange that sandwiches the =
blade.
once fixed to the arbor and, of course, one removable. The situation is =
when
I install a dado blade for 3/4" dado, I am left with less than a full =
nut
on the arbor. I don't know how safe this is but the saw is spec'd for =
full
dado. The question is can/should the dado blade be installed without the
outside arbor flange? This would leave only the nut in contact with the
blade and, in my opinion, less safe than a full nut. What is the =
solution?
TIA
--
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Thanks!
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Joe_Stein" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
I've been forced to go without the washer for dado (first wobble, now=20
stacked) too.
Have fun, but be safe.
Joe
SwampBug wrote:
> about table saw. I have a Delta 10" contractor saw with 30" UniFence, =
exact model escapes me just now. The arbor has a flange that sandwiches =
the blade. once fixed to the arbor and, of course, one removable. The =
situation is when I install a dado blade for 3/4" dado, I am left with =
less than a full nut on the arbor. I don't know how safe this is but the =
saw is spec'd for full dado. The question is can/should the dado blade =
be installed without the outside arbor flange? This would leave only the =
nut in contact with the blade and, in my opinion, less safe than a full =
nut. What is the solution?=20
> TIA
>
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ive wondered the same thing with my Craftsman saw. "Seems" to be okay
with
> just the nut.
>
Been doin' it that way for years on mine - thought it was the thing to do -
and it has worked!
true at the time but subsequent posts indicate a 'safe' scenario. . .<s> =
Thank you for your reply.
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Clint" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:qki2e.842551$8l.448868@pd7tw1no...
To be accurate, you know one person's opinion on what you should/can do,
based on your description of what you're trying to accomplish. =
Personally,
I take anything I learn on the Net from anonymous strangers with a grain =
of
salt, and try to use my common sense as well. I'd probably phone the =
Delta
toll free number (from http://www.deltawoodworking.com/index.asp?e=3D96) =
with
your model number and the size of the dado blade you're trying to set =
up,
and see what they say.
BTW, I'm not trying to say Mike in Mystic is full of horse puckey, or
questioning his advice. I'm just expressing my opinion on taking =
someone
else's advise over your own gut instinct. It's one thing if you err on =
the
side of caution, but you're going the other way.
Clint
"SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:YZh2e.2396$Qz.993@okepread05...
I use a router and dado bits when and where i can. There are times when =
the
saw is a better solution. I now know how to do it safely. Thanks for =
your
reply.
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
"SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:m2g2e.2391$Qz.567@okepread05:
> about table saw. I have a Delta 10" contractor saw with 30" UniFence,
> exact model escapes me just now. The arbor has a flange that
> sandwiches the blade. once fixed to the arbor and, of course, one
> removable. The situation is when I install a dado blade for 3/4" dado,
> I am left with less than a full nut on the arbor. I don't know how
> safe this is but the saw is spec'd for full dado. The question is
> can/should the dado blade be installed without the outside arbor
> flange? This would leave only the nut in contact with the blade and,
> in my opinion, less safe than a full nut. What is the solution? TIA
>
If you're uncomfortable with leaving the washer off, it might be time to
consider a router, or cutting the dado in multiple passes on your saw.
If a process makes you nervous, don't do it. There are a lot of ways to
cut rabbets & dados. Keep all you body parts as factory installed.
Patriarch
"SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:m2g2e.2391$Qz.567@okepread05:
> about table saw. I have a Delta 10" contractor saw with 30" UniFence,
> exact model escapes me just now. The arbor has a flange that
> sandwiches the blade. once fixed to the arbor and, of course, one
> removable. The situation is when I install a dado blade for 3/4" dado,
> I am left with less than a full nut on the arbor. I don't know how
> safe this is but the saw is spec'd for full dado. The question is
> can/should the dado blade be installed without the outside arbor
> flange? This would leave only the nut in contact with the blade and,
> in my opinion, less safe than a full nut. What is the solution? TIA
>
If you're uncomfortable with leaving the washer off, it might be time to
consider a router, or cutting the dado in multiple passes on your saw.
If a process makes you nervous, don't do it. There are a lot of ways to
cut rabbets & dados. Keep all you body parts as factory installed.
Patriarch
I use a router and dado bits when and where i can. There are times when =
the saw is a better solution. I now know how to do it safely. Thanks for =
your reply.
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
"SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:m2g2e.2391$Qz.567@okepread05:=20
> about table saw. I have a Delta 10" contractor saw with 30" UniFence,
> exact model escapes me just now. The arbor has a flange that
> sandwiches the blade. once fixed to the arbor and, of course, one
> removable. The situation is when I install a dado blade for 3/4" dado,
> I am left with less than a full nut on the arbor. I don't know how
> safe this is but the saw is spec'd for full dado. The question is
> can/should the dado blade be installed without the outside arbor
> flange? This would leave only the nut in contact with the blade and,
> in my opinion, less safe than a full nut. What is the solution? TIA
>=20
If you're uncomfortable with leaving the washer off, it might be time to =
consider a router, or cutting the dado in multiple passes on your saw.
If a process makes you nervous, don't do it. There are a lot of ways to =
cut rabbets & dados. Keep all you body parts as factory installed.
Patriarch
Thanks.
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
Ive wondered the same thing with my Craftsman saw. "Seems" to be okay =
with=20
just the nut.=20
That is exactly what you're "meant" to do. I say that in quotes, because
there is no other way to do it safely. Using the nut alone without the
washer is perfectly fine. You need to get the nut at least several threads
onto the arbor, and tighten it down sufficiently. The safety issue with
using the washer and having the nut not seated properly is a LOT worse than
not having the washer - which only serves to offer a bit of stability to the
blade and doesn't keep the blade in place.
Mike
"SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:m2g2e.2391$Qz.567@okepread05...
about table saw. I have a Delta 10" contractor saw with 30" UniFence, exact
model escapes me just now. The arbor has a flange that sandwiches the blade.
once fixed to the arbor and, of course, one removable. The situation is when
I install a dado blade for 3/4" dado, I am left with less than a full nut
on the arbor. I don't know how safe this is but the saw is spec'd for full
dado. The question is can/should the dado blade be installed without the
outside arbor flange? This would leave only the nut in contact with the
blade and, in my opinion, less safe than a full nut. What is the solution?
TIA
--
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
To be accurate, you know one person's opinion on what you should/can do,
based on your description of what you're trying to accomplish. Personally,
I take anything I learn on the Net from anonymous strangers with a grain of
salt, and try to use my common sense as well. I'd probably phone the Delta
toll free number (from http://www.deltawoodworking.com/index.asp?e=96) with
your model number and the size of the dado blade you're trying to set up,
and see what they say.
BTW, I'm not trying to say Mike in Mystic is full of horse puckey, or
questioning his advice. I'm just expressing my opinion on taking someone
else's advise over your own gut instinct. It's one thing if you err on the
side of caution, but you're going the other way.
Clint
"SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:YZh2e.2396$Qz.993@okepread05...
I use a router and dado bits when and where i can. There are times when the
saw is a better solution. I now know how to do it safely. Thanks for your
reply.
--
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
"SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:m2g2e.2391$Qz.567@okepread05:
> about table saw. I have a Delta 10" contractor saw with 30" UniFence,
> exact model escapes me just now. The arbor has a flange that
> sandwiches the blade. once fixed to the arbor and, of course, one
> removable. The situation is when I install a dado blade for 3/4" dado,
> I am left with less than a full nut on the arbor. I don't know how
> safe this is but the saw is spec'd for full dado. The question is
> can/should the dado blade be installed without the outside arbor
> flange? This would leave only the nut in contact with the blade and,
> in my opinion, less safe than a full nut. What is the solution? TIA
>
If you're uncomfortable with leaving the washer off, it might be time to
consider a router, or cutting the dado in multiple passes on your saw.
If a process makes you nervous, don't do it. There are a lot of ways to
cut rabbets & dados. Keep all you body parts as factory installed.
Patriarch
interesting piece and I will look into it more but Amazon claims no =
longer available. . .at least thru them. Thanks.
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
Delta sells a "special" arbor nut set that has two arbor
nuts. One is a "combo" washer and nut and the other is
a single nut designed to be used with a dado set.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00004Y9IO/qid=3D1112129585=
/sr=3D8-2/ref=3Dsr_8_xs_ap_i2_xgl60/002-2983369-5970409?v=3Dglance&s=3Dhi=
&n=3D507846
It is an "excellent" upgrade for anybody with a Delta saw.
SwampBug wrote:
> about table saw. I have a Delta 10" contractor saw with 30" UniFence, =
exact model escapes me just now. The arbor has a flange that sandwiches =
the blade. once fixed to the arbor and, of course, one removable. The =
situation is when I install a dado blade for 3/4" dado, I am left with =
less than a full nut on the arbor. I don't know how safe this is but the =
saw is spec'd for full dado. The question is can/should the dado blade =
be installed without the outside arbor flange? This would leave only the =
nut in contact with the blade and, in my opinion, less safe than a full =
nut. What is the solution?=20
> TIA
>=20
"George" <george@least> writes:
> "toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Ive wondered the same thing with my Craftsman saw. "Seems" to be okay
> with
>> just the nut.
>>
>>
>
> That's pretty much standard at full thickness. The blades are pretty heavy
> in section, so they pretty much act as their own washer.
I looked it up yesterday evening in a engineering book: The Washers
are needed if the stuff you use the nut on is "soft" and tends to
set. If you have a high quality screw and nut adding a washer will
*decrease* the strength of the joint.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
I've been forced to go without the washer for dado (first wobble, now
stacked) too.
Have fun, but be safe.
Joe
SwampBug wrote:
> about table saw. I have a Delta 10" contractor saw with 30" UniFence, exact model escapes me just now. The arbor has a flange that sandwiches the blade. once fixed to the arbor and, of course, one removable. The situation is when I install a dado blade for 3/4" dado, I am left with less than a full nut on the arbor. I don't know how safe this is but the saw is spec'd for full dado. The question is can/should the dado blade be installed without the outside arbor flange? This would leave only the nut in contact with the blade and, in my opinion, less safe than a full nut. What is the solution?
> TIA
>