Heh ... I suppose this is a loaded question. I'm putting down designs
for a variety of projects; boxes, a magazine holder, etc.
I can easily get 1/2" and 3/4" thick boards that are up to 4" or 6"
wide, but boards that are 12" wide usually only come in 1" or more
thickness.
Making a jewelry box out of 1" thick wood isn't quite what I want. So,
what I need is a way of getting nice wood (maple, oak, cherry, etc.)
that is upwards to 12" wide and only 1/2" or 3/4" thick. And in some
cases, it would be nice to get it even thinner, like 3/8".
So ... the loaded question ... can I buy this stuff, or do I need to buy
a good bandsaw and a good planer to cut these from larger boards?
Jack
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> Heh ... I suppose this is a loaded question. I'm putting down designs for
> a variety of projects; boxes, a magazine holder, etc.
>
> I can easily get 1/2" and 3/4" thick boards that are up to 4" or 6" wide,
> but boards that are 12" wide usually only come in 1" or more thickness.
>
> Making a jewelry box out of 1" thick wood isn't quite what I want. So,
> what I need is a way of getting nice wood (maple, oak, cherry, etc.) that
> is upwards to 12" wide and only 1/2" or 3/4" thick. And in some cases, it
> would be nice to get it even thinner, like 3/8".
>
> So ... the loaded question ... can I buy this stuff, or do I need to buy a
> good bandsaw and a good planer to cut these from larger boards?
>
Some people would glue narrower boards together.
Or build smaller boxes.
Or plane thicker boards down.
Or build larger boxes.
Lots of options.
> Well, the woods available to me locally do come in 1 1/2, 2" or thicker.
>
> If I did have a reasonable bandsaw with a riser block, could it resaw a
> 10" or 12" piece with decent accuracy?
>
> Jack
If its set up properly and has a sharp blade. I resaw frequently however,
you still need to plane or run the pieces thru a drum sander after resawing
them.
Rewsawing will save you money, particularly when the primary thickness you
use is 1/2". Its a horrible waste to plane a 3/4" board down to 1/2" when
you have 2" wood available to resaw.
Dave
On Tue, 20 Jun 2006 11:19:46 -0600, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
<"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
>Heh ... I suppose this is a loaded question. I'm putting down designs
>for a variety of projects; boxes, a magazine holder, etc.
>
>I can easily get 1/2" and 3/4" thick boards that are up to 4" or 6"
>wide, but boards that are 12" wide usually only come in 1" or more
>thickness.
>
>Making a jewelry box out of 1" thick wood isn't quite what I want. So,
>what I need is a way of getting nice wood (maple, oak, cherry, etc.)
>that is upwards to 12" wide and only 1/2" or 3/4" thick. And in some
>cases, it would be nice to get it even thinner, like 3/8".
>
>So ... the loaded question ... can I buy this stuff, or do I need to buy
>a good bandsaw and a good planer to cut these from larger boards?
In my experience a 12" wide board that is thinner than 1/2" or even
3/4" is going to cup like crazy, especially if you are buying from
somewhere online and having it shipped in from another area. I'd glue
it up from narrower boards.
-Leuf
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> Heh ... I suppose this is a loaded question. I'm putting down designs for
> a variety of projects; boxes, a magazine holder, etc.
>
> I can easily get 1/2" and 3/4" thick boards that are up to 4" or 6" wide,
> but boards that are 12" wide usually only come in 1" or more thickness.
>
> Making a jewelry box out of 1" thick wood isn't quite what I want. So,
> what I need is a way of getting nice wood (maple, oak, cherry, etc.) that
> is upwards to 12" wide and only 1/2" or 3/4" thick. And in some cases, it
> would be nice to get it even thinner, like 3/8".
>
> So ... the loaded question ... can I buy this stuff, or do I need to buy a
> good bandsaw and a good planer to cut these from larger boards?
If you are buying less than 3/4" wood now you are probably paying 3/4"
prices or more.
Cheapest way out would be to buy a planer and mill to what thickness you
want. Eventually cheaper would be to add the BS and have more yield.
Do you think a Grizzly G0555 with a riser block would be good enough?
It's not a $2500 unit (and I'm not about to get one of those).
Or how about a Jet 710115K 14"? That's probably as much as I would dare
to buy (assuming my better two-thirds lets me)
Jack
Patriarch wrote:
> "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net">
> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>
>>Well, the woods available to me locally do come in 1 1/2, 2" or
>>thicker.
>>
>>If I did have a reasonable bandsaw with a riser block, could it resaw
>>a 10" or 12" piece with decent accuracy?
>>
>>Jack
>
>
> Let's be honest here. Leon's new, $2500+ European bandsaw, properly tuned,
> will do this just fine, no problem. A made-in-Asia saw, at $600 or less, out
> the door, may have some challenges.
>
> How many boxes do you want to save money making? ;-)
>
> There are a lot of us looking for an excuse to purchase new-to-us tooling.
> If you're one of us, then warm up the truck, and start looking about. But if
> you want to save $200 on hardwood, there may be better ways to approach the
> problem.
>
> If you want our support in buying a new saw, you've got it! The Visa bill
> comes with your name on it, however.
>
> Patriarch,
> former owner of a good Jet 16" bandsaw, and user of a Ridgid thickness
> planer...
Understood. Any decent hardwood supplier should be able to provide
them. I've gone through entire stacks of boards at 'home improvement
centers' and not found one that was straight or flat. Then if I found
one after a few days at home it was warped.
PS have you thought of veneered baltic birch plywood? Stronger and more
stable. You just need to attach a bit if real wood to hide the edges
mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net wrote:
> Yeah, I wasn't really looking at 1/4" for a large box, but rather for
> the sleeves in a magazine holder for the bathroom. Using 1/2" for the
> sleeves would be fine, but I'd still need the overall width of the
> holder (and sleeves) to be about 12".
>
> The sleeves for my current project would need 12"x12" boards (overlapped
> and slanted with 8" deep stops). I could use 3" wide boards, which I
> can of course easily get in most any thickness I want, and join them.
>
> I was just wondering how easy it would be to get my hands on 12" wide so
> that I could cut it to a nice length without having to do any joining as
> such.
>
> But of course ... it WOULD be a decent excuse to get a bandsaw and a
> planer!
>
> Jack
>
>
> Leuf wrote:
>
>> On Tue, 20 Jun 2006 11:19:46 -0600, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
>> <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Heh ... I suppose this is a loaded question. I'm putting down designs
>>> for a variety of projects; boxes, a magazine holder, etc.
>>>
>>> I can easily get 1/2" and 3/4" thick boards that are up to 4" or 6"
>>> wide, but boards that are 12" wide usually only come in 1" or more
>>> thickness.
>>>
>>> Making a jewelry box out of 1" thick wood isn't quite what I want.
>>> So, what I need is a way of getting nice wood (maple, oak, cherry,
>>> etc.) that is upwards to 12" wide and only 1/2" or 3/4" thick. And
>>> in some cases, it would be nice to get it even thinner, like 3/8".
>>>
>>> So ... the loaded question ... can I buy this stuff, or do I need to
>>> buy a good bandsaw and a good planer to cut these from larger boards?
>>
>>
>>
>> In my experience a 12" wide board that is thinner than 1/2" or even
>> 3/4" is going to cup like crazy, especially if you are buying from
>> somewhere online and having it shipped in from another area. I'd glue
>> it up from narrower boards.
>>
>>
>> -Leuf
>
>
only time I've had problems is when the board is not dry before it is
milled. Even then it pays to sticker a plank after abusing it. I keep
my exotics stickered between kiln dried 8/4 hardwood with either
concrete blocks or clamps to hold everything in alignment
Leuf wrote:
> On Tue, 20 Jun 2006 11:19:46 -0600, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
> <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
>
>
>>Heh ... I suppose this is a loaded question. I'm putting down designs
>>for a variety of projects; boxes, a magazine holder, etc.
>>
>>I can easily get 1/2" and 3/4" thick boards that are up to 4" or 6"
>>wide, but boards that are 12" wide usually only come in 1" or more
>>thickness.
>>
>>Making a jewelry box out of 1" thick wood isn't quite what I want. So,
>>what I need is a way of getting nice wood (maple, oak, cherry, etc.)
>>that is upwards to 12" wide and only 1/2" or 3/4" thick. And in some
>>cases, it would be nice to get it even thinner, like 3/8".
>>
>>So ... the loaded question ... can I buy this stuff, or do I need to buy
>>a good bandsaw and a good planer to cut these from larger boards?
>
>
> In my experience a 12" wide board that is thinner than 1/2" or even
> 3/4" is going to cup like crazy, especially if you are buying from
> somewhere online and having it shipped in from another area. I'd glue
> it up from narrower boards.
>
>
> -Leuf
your obviously trying to get permission from strangers to buy a new
large expensive power tool!-)
My strategy has always been
1) learn to make do with what you have for the one off job
2) if you have to buy, buy the best you can afford. if you can't then
follow number 1
3) always tell your wife or SWMBO that your making it for her. if she
doesn't agree then follow number 1. I always let my wife claim as much
of what I make as she wants unless I have a buyer before she claims it.
I could make furniture but don't as a result.
[email protected] wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
> <...snipped...>
>
>>So ... the loaded question ... can I buy this stuff, or do I need to buy
>>a good bandsaw and a good planer to cut these from larger boards?
>>
>>Jack
>
>
> yes
>
It isn't the depth that drives my interest as such, but the variations
of the grain in the woods I've seen. Most of the time, the grain goes
along the length of the wood and has ample width for the needed height
of the box. But some grains would look really nice is I cut the board
at an angle to the grain, or even having the grain biased upwards.
As I said though, the thinnest I can usually get nice woods in is 1" or
thicker.
Jack
Perfection In Wood
> On Tue, 20 Jun 2006 11:19:46 -0600, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
> <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
>
>
>>Heh ... I suppose this is a loaded question. I'm putting down designs
>>for a variety of projects; boxes, a magazine holder, etc.
>>
>>I can easily get 1/2" and 3/4" thick boards that are up to 4" or 6"
>>wide, but boards that are 12" wide usually only come in 1" or more
>>thickness.
>>
>>Making a jewelry box out of 1" thick wood isn't quite what I want. So,
>>what I need is a way of getting nice wood (maple, oak, cherry, etc.)
>>that is upwards to 12" wide and only 1/2" or 3/4" thick. And in some
>>cases, it would be nice to get it even thinner, like 3/8".
>>
>>So ... the loaded question ... can I buy this stuff, or do I need to buy
>>a good bandsaw and a good planer to cut these from larger boards?
>>
>>Jack
>>
>>
>>
>
> Yeah, like others point out...plane, etc. But I would not plan on
> buying 3/4" 1x12 and taking off a 1/4" on a BS.
>
> The question that come to mind is that if you are using (need) 12"
> wide stock why is the 3/4" such an issue. IMO, a box with a depth of
> 12" (or even 10" maybe 8") should have walls of something more than
> 3/8". . When you get down to say 4"-5" deep 1/2" starts to work.
> Again, just my opinion.
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net">
wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Well, the woods available to me locally do come in 1 1/2, 2" or
> thicker.
>
> If I did have a reasonable bandsaw with a riser block, could it resaw
> a 10" or 12" piece with decent accuracy?
>
> Jack
Let's be honest here. Leon's new, $2500+ European bandsaw, properly tuned,
will do this just fine, no problem. A made-in-Asia saw, at $600 or less, out
the door, may have some challenges.
How many boxes do you want to save money making? ;-)
There are a lot of us looking for an excuse to purchase new-to-us tooling.
If you're one of us, then warm up the truck, and start looking about. But if
you want to save $200 on hardwood, there may be better ways to approach the
problem.
If you want our support in buying a new saw, you've got it! The Visa bill
comes with your name on it, however.
Patriarch,
former owner of a good Jet 16" bandsaw, and user of a Ridgid thickness
planer...
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net">
wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Patriarch wrote:
>> "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net">
>> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>>
>>
>>>Well, the woods available to me locally do come in 1 1/2, 2" or
>>>thicker.
>>>
>>>If I did have a reasonable bandsaw with a riser block, could it resaw
>>>a 10" or 12" piece with decent accuracy?
>>>
>>>Jack
>>
>>
>> Let's be honest here. Leon's new, $2500+ European bandsaw, properly
>> tuned, will do this just fine, no problem. A made-in-Asia saw, at
>> $600 or less, out the door, may have some challenges.
>>
>> How many boxes do you want to save money making? ;-)
>>
>> There are a lot of us looking for an excuse to purchase new-to-us
>> tooling. If you're one of us, then warm up the truck, and start
>> looking about. But if you want to save $200 on hardwood, there may
>> be better ways to approach the problem.
>>
>> If you want our support in buying a new saw, you've got it! The Visa
>> bill comes with your name on it, however.
>>
>> Patriarch,
>> former owner of a good Jet 16" bandsaw, and user of a Ridgid
>> thickness planer...
>
> Do you think a Grizzly G0555 with a riser block would be good enough?
> It's not a $2500 unit (and I'm not about to get one of those).
>
> Or how about a Jet 710115K 14"? That's probably as much as I would
> dare to buy (assuming my better two-thirds lets me)
>
> Jack
>
I'm not the king of bandsaws here, or anywhere, really. My limited
experience shows that the 14" Jet and Delta machines I've used were much
less stable than the bigger, heavier duty machines elsewhere. That made
the most difference when the wood was harder, fancier, or more
'valuable' (less replaceable, required by machine or operator error).
I intended to buy a Laguna bandsaw three or four years ago, and had set
aside the money, but LOML decided to take up machine quilting. After
helping her spend a light $1500 to 'get started', I purchased a Jet 16"
saw instead. It worked well, with tuning and accessories and new blades
and all, with all the goodies running close to $1000. 10" under the
guides, though, is all that it would resaw. A family friend in the trim
carpentry business bought it from me this last spring, when he had a big
project for it...
You're going to have to figure out the 'good enough' part. Bandsaws are
fairly safe, fairly easy to use, fairly predictable, relatively low
maintenance systems. And you'll be into one of the sweet spot machines
at about $800, taxed, delivered and accessorized.
And you'll still need the $400 planer.
You can do this if you want. Just be aware that you need to do a lot of
boxes to save the $800 or so on wood costs.
Patriarch
Well, the woods available to me locally do come in 1 1/2, 2" or thicker.
If I did have a reasonable bandsaw with a riser block, could it resaw a
10" or 12" piece with decent accuracy?
Jack
Paul Franklin wrote:
> On Tue, 20 Jun 2006 11:19:46 -0600, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
> <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
>
>
>>Heh ... I suppose this is a loaded question. I'm putting down designs
>>for a variety of projects; boxes, a magazine holder, etc.
>>
>>I can easily get 1/2" and 3/4" thick boards that are up to 4" or 6"
>>wide, but boards that are 12" wide usually only come in 1" or more
>>thickness.
>>
>>Making a jewelry box out of 1" thick wood isn't quite what I want. So,
>>what I need is a way of getting nice wood (maple, oak, cherry, etc.)
>>that is upwards to 12" wide and only 1/2" or 3/4" thick. And in some
>>cases, it would be nice to get it even thinner, like 3/8".
>>
>>So ... the loaded question ... can I buy this stuff, or do I need to buy
>>a good bandsaw and a good planer to cut these from larger boards?
>>
>>Jack
>>
>>
>>
>
> You need a bandsaw, and a planer, and a....
>
> Now what was the question? :-)
>
> Me, I'd glue up narrower stock. For one thing, you need quite a
> bandsaw to resaw 12" stock, or at least a riser block. And planing
> down 12 wide 1" stock to 1/2 inch always seems like such a waste..
>
> Paul
>
>
>
On Tue, 20 Jun 2006 11:19:46 -0600, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
<"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
>Heh ... I suppose this is a loaded question. I'm putting down designs
>for a variety of projects; boxes, a magazine holder, etc.
>
>I can easily get 1/2" and 3/4" thick boards that are up to 4" or 6"
>wide, but boards that are 12" wide usually only come in 1" or more
>thickness.
>
>Making a jewelry box out of 1" thick wood isn't quite what I want. So,
>what I need is a way of getting nice wood (maple, oak, cherry, etc.)
>that is upwards to 12" wide and only 1/2" or 3/4" thick. And in some
>cases, it would be nice to get it even thinner, like 3/8".
>
>So ... the loaded question ... can I buy this stuff, or do I need to buy
>a good bandsaw and a good planer to cut these from larger boards?
>
>Jack
>
>
>
You need a bandsaw, and a planer, and a....
Now what was the question? :-)
Me, I'd glue up narrower stock. For one thing, you need quite a
bandsaw to resaw 12" stock, or at least a riser block. And planing
down 12 wide 1" stock to 1/2 inch always seems like such a waste..
Paul
On Tue, 20 Jun 2006 11:19:46 -0600, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
<"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
>Heh ... I suppose this is a loaded question. I'm putting down designs
>for a variety of projects; boxes, a magazine holder, etc.
>
>I can easily get 1/2" and 3/4" thick boards that are up to 4" or 6"
>wide, but boards that are 12" wide usually only come in 1" or more
>thickness.
>
>Making a jewelry box out of 1" thick wood isn't quite what I want. So,
>what I need is a way of getting nice wood (maple, oak, cherry, etc.)
>that is upwards to 12" wide and only 1/2" or 3/4" thick. And in some
>cases, it would be nice to get it even thinner, like 3/8".
>
>So ... the loaded question ... can I buy this stuff, or do I need to buy
>a good bandsaw and a good planer to cut these from larger boards?
>
>Jack
>
>
>
Yeah, like others point out...plane, etc. But I would not plan on
buying 3/4" 1x12 and taking off a 1/4" on a BS.
The question that come to mind is that if you are using (need) 12"
wide stock why is the 3/4" such an issue. IMO, a box with a depth of
12" (or even 10" maybe 8") should have walls of something more than
3/8". . When you get down to say 4"-5" deep 1/2" starts to work.
Again, just my opinion.
I use 1/4 inch stock for jewelry boxes also. My Jet 18 weill saw 10
inches. My ridged planer will take 12 inch wide.
Are you really needing 12 inches of width? If so find a seller that
will do custom milling for you. I've gotten some exotic stock mailed to
order and had the 4/4 boards resawn and planed down to 1/4.
I recently took some boards to a place that does custom milling to use
their wide belt sander. After they milled my pink ivory and zebra wood
to size I had them take an alder plank down to thickness for shaker boxes.
You should also look at book matching narrower boards to get your width.
mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net wrote:
> Heh ... I suppose this is a loaded question. I'm putting down designs
> for a variety of projects; boxes, a magazine holder, etc.
>
> I can easily get 1/2" and 3/4" thick boards that are up to 4" or 6"
> wide, but boards that are 12" wide usually only come in 1" or more
> thickness.
>
> Making a jewelry box out of 1" thick wood isn't quite what I want. So,
> what I need is a way of getting nice wood (maple, oak, cherry, etc.)
> that is upwards to 12" wide and only 1/2" or 3/4" thick. And in some
> cases, it would be nice to get it even thinner, like 3/8".
>
> So ... the loaded question ... can I buy this stuff, or do I need to buy
> a good bandsaw and a good planer to cut these from larger boards?
>
> Jack
>
>
>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
<...snipped...>
>So ... the loaded question ... can I buy this stuff, or do I need to buy
>a good bandsaw and a good planer to cut these from larger boards?
>
>Jack
yes
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
Yeah, I wasn't really looking at 1/4" for a large box, but rather for
the sleeves in a magazine holder for the bathroom. Using 1/2" for the
sleeves would be fine, but I'd still need the overall width of the
holder (and sleeves) to be about 12".
The sleeves for my current project would need 12"x12" boards (overlapped
and slanted with 8" deep stops). I could use 3" wide boards, which I
can of course easily get in most any thickness I want, and join them.
I was just wondering how easy it would be to get my hands on 12" wide so
that I could cut it to a nice length without having to do any joining as
such.
But of course ... it WOULD be a decent excuse to get a bandsaw and a planer!
Jack
Leuf wrote:
> On Tue, 20 Jun 2006 11:19:46 -0600, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
> <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
>
>
>>Heh ... I suppose this is a loaded question. I'm putting down designs
>>for a variety of projects; boxes, a magazine holder, etc.
>>
>>I can easily get 1/2" and 3/4" thick boards that are up to 4" or 6"
>>wide, but boards that are 12" wide usually only come in 1" or more
>>thickness.
>>
>>Making a jewelry box out of 1" thick wood isn't quite what I want. So,
>>what I need is a way of getting nice wood (maple, oak, cherry, etc.)
>>that is upwards to 12" wide and only 1/2" or 3/4" thick. And in some
>>cases, it would be nice to get it even thinner, like 3/8".
>>
>>So ... the loaded question ... can I buy this stuff, or do I need to buy
>>a good bandsaw and a good planer to cut these from larger boards?
>
>
> In my experience a 12" wide board that is thinner than 1/2" or even
> 3/4" is going to cup like crazy, especially if you are buying from
> somewhere online and having it shipped in from another area. I'd glue
> it up from narrower boards.
>
>
> -Leuf