Finally had to replace my arbor bearings

On 11/23/2013 8:12 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>
>>
>> Wow Mike! Never have I ever considered that just ordering a pair of
>> arbor bearings in would work. I never considered any thing other than
>> manually removing the TS top, arbor, beings, etc. Hell I can't even
>> order our dog in, from out side. ;~)
>>
>
> It's all in the amount of command you put into your voice... I just gave it
> my best impersonation of my wife talking to me.

I wonder if you could have had her give out the orders. LOL



>
>>
>> Jeez the thing must have been pretty noisy too if you could feel the
>> blade bump.
>>
>
> It was. I knew I needed to do this for a long time, but just kept putting
> it off. Finally - could not put it off any longer.
>
>> Good for you Mike, enjoy the day!
>
> Thank you sir - once I get my sister-in-law's hot tub yanked apart, stack
> firewood for my wife's nephew/family for a couple of hours, I'm going to
> call it quits and come home and play with my saw. I'm gonna smoke some
> cigarettes, scratch my ass, tweak my saw a bit, repeat as necessary, and
> then I'm breaking out that cherry board that has been leaning over by my
> drill press and rip down the frame for my left wing. I consider that all to
> be pretty good.
>

On 11/24/2013 8:38 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Morgans wrote:
>> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> Well, my table saw was built somewhere around 1959, and to my
>>> disappointment, the arbor bearings gave out on it.
>>
>> Yep, I did that once, and broke the cast iron yolk, by pressing them
>> out without a real press. Sh*t!
>>
>> Long story kinds short, it turned out OK. I know a good welder with
>> an oven for pre and post heating welded cast, so I reassembled it with the
>> old
>> bearing to get the alignment perfect, and he welded it up and treated
>> it, then I got it back and put the new bearings in more carefully, and it
>> seems to be as good as new. That was all about 10 years ago, by now, I
>> guess.
>
> All's well that ends well - huh? I got mine back in service this afternoon
> after making some changes to the wheels that are mounted on it. Got rid of
> the big pneumatic tires that kept losing air pressure and went with 5" hard
> rubber. Put a pair of swivel castors in the front with a lift capability so
> it rolls around a lot nicer now.
>
> Here's the nickle test - just because ya have to do it...
>
> http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/mike9369/media/NickleTest_zps7a91bb39.mp4.html
>

Awh, come on now Mike, I did the quarter test. LOL

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8687517178/


Your video only shows the pointy end of a guitar.

On 11/23/2013 7:12 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Well, my table saw was built somewhere around 1959, and to my
> disappointment, the arbor bearings gave out on it. I guess they just don't
> make 'em like they used to. Had to order a pair in, but they only took a
> day to come in. Pressed everything together yesterday and when I get back
> home later today, will align the blade to the slot. Many thanks to Bob
> Sosenko who graciously loaned me his Aligner Jr. kit to do the alignment.

Wow Mike! Never have I ever considered that just ordering a pair of
arbor bearings in would work. I never considered any thing other than
manually removing the TS top, arbor, beings, etc. Hell I can't even
order our dog in, from out side. ;~)

Thanks for that mental image. LOL

>
> I'm curious to see how well I got the piece back in place that backs up the
> blade. I'll know quickly enough when I see if my zero clearance insert is
> still really zero clearance when I fire it all back up. There is an index
> mark on the arbor but It was difficult to see, and difficult to drift on
> precisely. Could be a thou off either way. Or, a couple...
>
> What a difference in the feel of that arbor turning now! I used to be able
> to tell how far I was turning the blade by counting the bumps as the blade
> rotated. Smooth as silk now. I'm going to have to come up with a new way
> to tell how far I rotate the blade now... End play is all gone too. I
> think a link belt is in order now, as long as I've gone this far.

Jeez the thing must have been pretty noisy too if you could feel the
blade bump.



>
> Once this is back up and running, I'm gonna finally take on the project of
> building the other table extension. The extension on the left side is
> currently one of the grate type cast extensions, and I'm going to build an
> extension to match the one on the right - cherry frame with 3/4" MDF insert.
> The one on the right has my router insert in it and my router hangs
> underneath full time. The new one will get a 6" drawer hung under it to
> hold all of the clutter that normally falls all over the place - feather
> boards, push saddle, etc. And of course - one of my patented pencil
> holders.


>
> Great way to spend the remainder of a Saturday.

Good for you Mike, enjoy the day!

"Morgans" <[email protected]> wrote:

> So the nickel test, eh? I have to admit I never thought of doing that to
> mine. I think it would pass, but it would be hard to do it at the
> moment. The saw is kinda sitting underneath some tools and clutter at the
> moment. I have not been able to spend any meaningful shop time since the
> end of June, after falling off of a roof and nearly killing myself.
> Finally walking with a cane and proceeding, but there still is a very long way to go.<

Sorry to hear that. Get well soon!

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

On Sat, 23 Nov 2013 21:14:36 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Keith Nuttle wrote:
>> On 11/23/2013 8:34 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>>> On 11/23/2013 8:12 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>>>>> Well, my table saw was built somewhere around 1959, and to my
>>>>> disappointment, the arbor bearings gave out on it. I guess they
>>>>> just don't make 'em like they used to.
>>>>
>>>> Could be a manufacturing defect. Pack up the saw and take it to a
>>>> dealer and demand they fix it under warranty
>>>>
>>>> I was built in 1945 and my bearings are starting to wear and give
>>>> out. Defective parts for sure.
>>>
>>> I was built in '53 and I've had parts wearing out for a few years
>>> now. Never thought about a warranty claim. Figured it was just the
>>> way junk was...
>>>
>>
>> Is the manufacturing company still in existence? Warranties are not
>> much good if the manufacture no long exist.
>>
>> I lost the last partner in the manufacturing operation in 2010. The
>> other in 2003. The company had been in operation over 63 when the
>> first partner left the company.
>
>Nope - the managing partner left for good in '79, and the remaining partner
>(at age '84) can't remember shit - for even 1 minute. Just spend five
>minutes in conversation with her, and it's obvious. Hell - she doesn't even
>remember the very products she was in charge of. Talks about them, but does
>not recognize them when they stand in front of her. Sometimes it's funny,
>and sometimes it's sad.

I'm not allowed to complain at all to the original manufacturer. She's
94, 95 in January and still plays 18 holes of golf a week, weather
allowing. Lives alone and still drives. Gardens and does it all.
After being pinned between a car and a truck and shattering both
femurs if I mentioned physical ailments she just literally laughs at
me. How ever she does have a prescription from the Dr. that says
take one on the 12th hole. It's Oxycodone.

Mike M

Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote in news:oL-
[email protected]:

>
> Damn, should have saved the receipt!
>
>

If he mailed in the registration card, he might be alright.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:

>> I was built in 1945 and my bearings are starting to wear and give
>> out.
>> Defective parts for sure.
-------------------------------------------------
"Mike Marlow" wrote:

> I was built in '53 and I've had parts wearing out for a few years
> now. Never thought about a warranty claim. Figured it was just the
> way junk was...
------------------------------------------------
Rookies.

Just wait..........................

Lew

On 11/26/2013 6:29 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>
>> Naw, that is pretty darn good! IIRC you mentioned replacing that
>> finger slicer offer extension. I never had the web extension rather
>> the stamped steel one. I replaced with a Formica covered wing and it
>> helped dampen the vibration even more. You are on your way.
>
> Yup - plan is to replace the cast wing with a cherry framed MDF extension
> with a drawer under it. I know it will be lighter and that can contribute
> to vibration, but I am hoping that won't really be a problem. I suppose
> I'll take the cast iron wing off and see what the vibrations look like
> before going further. I don't recall that I noticed any increased
> vibrations when I took the cast wing off the right side and replaced it with
> the same cherry frame/MDF combo, and my router. But - that was several
> years ago and my memory...
>


If the saw ends up being lighter with the wing off, and the drawer
material on, design the under mound drawer with a slot under the drawer
or where ever to hold the cast iron wing. Keep the weight.

On 11/25/2013 11:38 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/25/2013 9:08 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Leon wrote:
>>>
>>>> Your video only shows the pointy end of a guitar.
>>> Sorry - I moved things around after initially posting the link.
>>> Here's the
>>> correct link to the album that has table saw stuff.
>>>
>>> http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/mike9369/library/Table%20Saw%20Pictures?sort=3&page=1
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> You are really confident. Maybe this should be changed to the "nickel
>> in a box" test?
>> What if it rolled into the blade?
>>
>
>
> It rolled! I gotta see this. ;~) Now I'm just being mean.


Naw, that is pretty darn good! IIRC you mentioned replacing that finger
slicer offer extension. I never had the web extension rather the
stamped steel one. I replaced with a Formica covered wing and it helped
dampen the vibration even more. You are on your way.

On 11/25/2013 9:08 PM, Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Leon wrote:
>>
>>> Your video only shows the pointy end of a guitar.
>> Sorry - I moved things around after initially posting the link.
>> Here's the
>> correct link to the album that has table saw stuff.
>>
>> http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/mike9369/library/Table%20Saw%20Pictures?sort=3&page=1
>>
>>
> You are really confident. Maybe this should be changed to the "nickel
> in a box" test?
> What if it rolled into the blade?
>


It rolled! I gotta see this. ;~) Now I'm just being mean.

On 11/23/2013 9:16 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 11/23/2013 8:12 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Well, my table saw was built somewhere around 1959, and to my
>> disappointment, the arbor bearings gave out on it. I guess they just
>> don't
>> make 'em like they used to.
>
> Could be a manufacturing defect. Pack up the saw and take it to a
> dealer and demand they fix it under warranty
>

No kidding, great idea! But he is probably not the original owner and
you know how that conversation will go... yada yada yada.... LOL





> I was built in 1945 and my bearings are starting to wear and give out.
> Defective parts for sure.
>

On 11/23/2013 8:12 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Well, my table saw was built somewhere around 1959, and to my
> disappointment, the arbor bearings gave out on it. I guess they just don't
> make 'em like they used to.

Could be a manufacturing defect. Pack up the saw and take it to a
dealer and demand they fix it under warranty

I was built in 1945 and my bearings are starting to wear and give out.
Defective parts for sure.

Leon wrote:

>
> Wow Mike! Never have I ever considered that just ordering a pair of
> arbor bearings in would work. I never considered any thing other than
> manually removing the TS top, arbor, beings, etc. Hell I can't even
> order our dog in, from out side. ;~)
>

It's all in the amount of command you put into your voice... I just gave it
my best impersonation of my wife talking to me.

>
> Jeez the thing must have been pretty noisy too if you could feel the
> blade bump.
>

It was. I knew I needed to do this for a long time, but just kept putting
it off. Finally - could not put it off any longer.

> Good for you Mike, enjoy the day!

Thank you sir - once I get my sister-in-law's hot tub yanked apart, stack
firewood for my wife's nephew/family for a couple of hours, I'm going to
call it quits and come home and play with my saw. I'm gonna smoke some
cigarettes, scratch my ass, tweak my saw a bit, repeat as necessary, and
then I'm breaking out that cherry board that has been leaning over by my
drill press and rip down the frame for my left wing. I consider that all to
be pretty good.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On Sat, 23 Nov 2013 08:12:02 -0500, Mike Marlow wrote:


> I'm curious to see how well I got the piece back in place that backs up
> the blade. I'll know quickly enough when I see if my zero clearance
> insert is still really zero clearance when I fire it all back up. There
> is an index mark on the arbor but It was difficult to see, and difficult
> to drift on precisely. Could be a thou off either way. Or, a couple...

I needed to replace the bearings on a 1948 Delta I was restoring. I
chickened out and took it to the local Delta repair folks. I'm glad I
did. I went back later to express my admiration - there was no
measurable runout! Never had a saw before that I couldn't measure at
least a few thousandths.

--
This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub
they ripped it off.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 11/23/2013 8:12 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Well, my table saw was built somewhere around 1959, and to my
>> disappointment, the arbor bearings gave out on it. I guess they
>> just don't make 'em like they used to.
>
> Could be a manufacturing defect. Pack up the saw and take it to a
> dealer and demand they fix it under warranty
>
> I was built in 1945 and my bearings are starting to wear and give out.
> Defective parts for sure.

I was built in '53 and I've had parts wearing out for a few years now.
Never thought about a warranty claim. Figured it was just the way junk
was...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Sat, 23 Nov 2013 08:12:02 -0500, Mike Marlow wrote:
>
>
>> I'm curious to see how well I got the piece back in place that backs
>> up the blade. I'll know quickly enough when I see if my zero
>> clearance insert is still really zero clearance when I fire it all
>> back up. There is an index mark on the arbor but It was difficult
>> to see, and difficult to drift on precisely. Could be a thou off
>> either way. Or, a couple...
>
> I needed to replace the bearings on a 1948 Delta I was restoring. I
> chickened out and took it to the local Delta repair folks. I'm glad I
> did. I went back later to express my admiration - there was no
> measurable runout! Never had a saw before that I couldn't measure at
> least a few thousandths.

I did check mine today with BobS's Aligner Jr. and there was no runout. Not
that could be measured on the dial indicator. My blade was .005 out of
square with the miter slot and... I left it there! This is an under the
table trunion mount and to mess with .005 is asking for a lot of tunking
back and forth in the hope of making it less. BobS can tell you about a
piece of 8/4 walnut that I ran through this thing - not a burn mark on the
edges except where the knots are.

So - I deemed the saw to be good at .005, and went on to re-working my
wheels on the thing. Working on a better wheel system. I'm sure I'll
stretch this project out for a couple of more days at least.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On 11/23/2013 8:34 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> On 11/23/2013 8:12 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Well, my table saw was built somewhere around 1959, and to my
>>> disappointment, the arbor bearings gave out on it. I guess they
>>> just don't make 'em like they used to.
>>
>> Could be a manufacturing defect. Pack up the saw and take it to a
>> dealer and demand they fix it under warranty
>>
>> I was built in 1945 and my bearings are starting to wear and give out.
>> Defective parts for sure.
>
> I was built in '53 and I've had parts wearing out for a few years now.
> Never thought about a warranty claim. Figured it was just the way junk
> was...
>

Is the manufacturing company still in existence? Warranties are not
much good if the manufacture no long exist.

I lost the last partner in the manufacturing operation in 2010. The
other in 2003. The company had been in operation over 63 when the first
partner left the company.

Mike Marlow wrote:

> So - I deemed the saw to be good at .005, and went on to re-working my
> wheels on the thing. Working on a better wheel system. I'm sure I'll
> stretch this project out for a couple of more days at least.

BTW - I set my zero clearance insert into the saw and guess what - it was
zero clearance. Thanks to BobS who held my splitting maul against the back
side of the arbor while I precisely drifted the piece that the blade sits
against, on. With the BFH. Gently, of course. Using a 21mm socket to
drift it on. Nothing but the best in my shop!

For all of those guys who talk trash about working to within .000005
inches - hell, BobS and I did exactly that. Without all that fancy
machinery. We just haven't figured out exactly what we got within .00005
inches of. But we got there.

No shop is complete without a BFH.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Keith Nuttle wrote:
> On 11/23/2013 8:34 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>> On 11/23/2013 8:12 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>>>> Well, my table saw was built somewhere around 1959, and to my
>>>> disappointment, the arbor bearings gave out on it. I guess they
>>>> just don't make 'em like they used to.
>>>
>>> Could be a manufacturing defect. Pack up the saw and take it to a
>>> dealer and demand they fix it under warranty
>>>
>>> I was built in 1945 and my bearings are starting to wear and give
>>> out. Defective parts for sure.
>>
>> I was built in '53 and I've had parts wearing out for a few years
>> now. Never thought about a warranty claim. Figured it was just the
>> way junk was...
>>
>
> Is the manufacturing company still in existence? Warranties are not
> much good if the manufacture no long exist.
>
> I lost the last partner in the manufacturing operation in 2010. The
> other in 2003. The company had been in operation over 63 when the
> first partner left the company.

Nope - the managing partner left for good in '79, and the remaining partner
(at age '84) can't remember shit - for even 1 minute. Just spend five
minutes in conversation with her, and it's obvious. Hell - she doesn't even
remember the very products she was in charge of. Talks about them, but does
not recognize them when they stand in front of her. Sometimes it's funny,
and sometimes it's sad.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Mike M.

Congratulations on knowing how to install new bearings! Good job!

Bill

Bill wrote:
> Mike M.
>
> Congratulations on knowing how to install new bearings! Good job!
>
> Bill

Oh hell - that cerainly isn't the first set of bearings I've ever installed.
Or even the most sensative. You need to come spend a day in my garage Bill.
It's a laugh a minute - or at least some kinx of a new twist on things
you've done before.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well, my table saw was built somewhere around 1959, and to my
> disappointment, the arbor bearings gave out on it.

Yep, I did that once, and broke the cast iron yolk, by pressing them out
without a real press. Sh*t!

Long story kinds short, it turned out OK. I know a good welder with an oven
for pre and post heating welded cast, so I reassembled it with the old
bearing to get the alignment perfect, and he welded it up and treated it,
then I got it back and put the new bearings in more carefully, and it seems
to be as good as new. That was all about 10 years ago, by now, I guess.

Jim in NC



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This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
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Morgans wrote:
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Well, my table saw was built somewhere around 1959, and to my
>> disappointment, the arbor bearings gave out on it.
>
> Yep, I did that once, and broke the cast iron yolk, by pressing them
> out without a real press. Sh*t!
>
> Long story kinds short, it turned out OK. I know a good welder with
> an oven for pre and post heating welded cast, so I reassembled it with the
> old
> bearing to get the alignment perfect, and he welded it up and treated
> it, then I got it back and put the new bearings in more carefully, and it
> seems to be as good as new. That was all about 10 years ago, by now, I
> guess.

All's well that ends well - huh? I got mine back in service this afternoon
after making some changes to the wheels that are mounted on it. Got rid of
the big pneumatic tires that kept losing air pressure and went with 5" hard
rubber. Put a pair of swivel castors in the front with a lift capability so
it rolls around a lot nicer now.

Here's the nickle test - just because ya have to do it...

http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/mike9369/media/NickleTest_zps7a91bb39.mp4.html

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Morgans wrote:
> All's well that ends well - huh? I got mine back in service this
> afternoon after making some changes to the wheels that are mounted on it.
> Got rid of the big pneumatic tires that kept losing air pressure and went
> with 5" hard rubber. Put a pair of swivel castors in the front with a
> lift capability so it rolls around a lot nicer now.
>
> Here's the nickle test - just because ya have to do it...
>
Yep. It works for me!

I made the mobile base mine sits on. Overkill, heavy, but is there really
such a thing as overkill? I think I have hard 5 inchers on mine, too. Also
1/2" bolts that can be screwed down to take the weight off the wheels, for
leveling and make it so it does not move around. It only raises the base
off the floor 1/2" or so.

So the nickel test, eh? I have to admit I never thought of doing that to
mine. I think it would pass, but it would be hard to do it at the moment.
The saw is kinda sitting underneath some tools and clutter at the moment. I
have not been able to spend any meaningful shop time since the end of June,
after falling off of a roof and nearly killing myself. Finally walking with
a cane and proceeding, but there still is a very long way to go.

Jim in NC


---
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Morgans wrote:

>
> Yep. It works for me!

Thank you sir.

>
> I made the mobile base mine sits on. Overkill, heavy, but is there
> really such a thing as overkill? I think I have hard 5 inchers on mine,
> too. Also 1/2" bolts that can be screwed down to take the weight
> off the wheels, for leveling and make it so it does not move around. It
> only raises the
> base off the floor 1/2" or so.

I put two pictures up that show how I dealt with being able to move it
around and how to keep it stable when in use. I wanted something quick and
easy to accomplish, and didn't want to have to fool with things to set it
up. I just lift up on the front of the saw about an inch or so, and kick
the lever around to the stop with my left foot. The 2x4 that the castors
are bolted to is simply hinged behind the front 2x4 band. When it's raised
up for moving, the legs are only about 1/2" off the floor. This is a much
better system than the 8" tires I had on the back before. I had to lift the
saw too high to move it, I had to keep it lifted while I moved it, and like
I said - those damned pneumatic tires always seemed to go soft, which made
moving it a pain.

Here's the link to the album with the two pictures...

http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/mike9369/library/Table%20Saw%20Pictures?sort=3&page=1

>
> So the nickel test, eh? I have to admit I never thought of doing that to
> mine. I think it would pass, but it would be hard to > do it at the
> moment. The saw is kinda sitting underneath some tools and clutter at the
> moment. I have not been able to spend any meaningful shop time since the
> end of June, after falling off of a roof and nearly killing myself.
> Finally walking with a cane and proceeding, but there still is a very long
> way to go.
>

Wishing you the best with your recovery. Take my advise - roofs are not
meant for man to be on! I know what you mean though about the clutter on
your saw - isn't that what flat surfaces are for in a shop?

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Leon wrote:

> Your video only shows the pointy end of a guitar.

Sorry - I moved things around after initially posting the link. Here's the
correct link to the album that has table saw stuff.

http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/mike9369/library/Table%20Saw%20Pictures?sort=3&page=1

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Mike Marlow wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>
>> Your video only shows the pointy end of a guitar.
> Sorry - I moved things around after initially posting the link. Here's the
> correct link to the album that has table saw stuff.
>
> http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/mike9369/library/Table%20Saw%20Pictures?sort=3&page=1
>
You are really confident. Maybe this should be changed to the "nickel
in a box" test?
What if it rolled into the blade?

Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Leon wrote:
>>
>>> Your video only shows the pointy end of a guitar.
>> Sorry - I moved things around after initially posting the link. Here's
>> the correct link to the album that has table saw stuff.
>>
>> http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/mike9369/library/Table%20Saw%20Pictures?sort=3&page=1
>>
> You are really confident. Maybe this should be changed to the "nickel
> in a box" test?
> What if it rolled into the blade?

That's another nickle test...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Leon wrote:

> Naw, that is pretty darn good! IIRC you mentioned replacing that
> finger slicer offer extension. I never had the web extension rather
> the stamped steel one. I replaced with a Formica covered wing and it
> helped dampen the vibration even more. You are on your way.

Yup - plan is to replace the cast wing with a cherry framed MDF extension
with a drawer under it. I know it will be lighter and that can contribute
to vibration, but I am hoping that won't really be a problem. I suppose
I'll take the cast iron wing off and see what the vibrations look like
before going further. I don't recall that I noticed any increased
vibrations when I took the cast wing off the right side and replaced it with
the same cherry frame/MDF combo, and my router. But - that was several
years ago and my memory...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On 11/26/2013 12:38 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/25/2013 9:08 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Leon wrote:
>>>
>>>> Your video only shows the pointy end of a guitar.
>>> Sorry - I moved things around after initially posting the link.
>>> Here's the
>>> correct link to the album that has table saw stuff.
>>>
>>> http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/mike9369/library/Table%20Saw%20Pictures?sort=3&page=1
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> You are really confident. Maybe this should be changed to the "nickel
>> in a box" test?
>> What if it rolled into the blade?
>>
>
>
> It rolled! I gotta see this. ;~) Now I'm just being mean.


I watched the video again. Jefferson looked at the blade and started to
go there! I missed that the first time. : )

Leon wrote:
> On 11/26/2013 6:29 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Leon wrote:
>>
>>> Naw, that is pretty darn good! IIRC you mentioned replacing that
>>> finger slicer offer extension. I never had the web extension rather
>>> the stamped steel one. I replaced with a Formica covered wing and
>>> it helped dampen the vibration even more. You are on your way.
>>
>> Yup - plan is to replace the cast wing with a cherry framed MDF
>> extension with a drawer under it. I know it will be lighter and
>> that can contribute to vibration, but I am hoping that won't really
>> be a problem. I suppose I'll take the cast iron wing off and see
>> what the vibrations look like before going further. I don't recall
>> that I noticed any increased vibrations when I took the cast wing
>> off the right side and replaced it with the same cherry frame/MDF
>> combo, and my router. But - that was several years ago and my
>> memory...
>
>
> If the saw ends up being lighter with the wing off, and the drawer
> material on, design the under mound drawer with a slot under the
> drawer or where ever to hold the cast iron wing. Keep the weight.

Good thought. That is easily accomplished.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On 11/23/2013 10:19 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/23/2013 9:16 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> On 11/23/2013 8:12 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Well, my table saw was built somewhere around 1959, and to my
>>> disappointment, the arbor bearings gave out on it. I guess they just
>>> don't
>>> make 'em like they used to.
>>
>> Could be a manufacturing defect. Pack up the saw and take it to a
>> dealer and demand they fix it under warranty
>>
>
> No kidding, great idea! But he is probably not the original owner and
> you know how that conversation will go... yada yada yada.... LOL
>

Damn, should have saved the receipt!