I bought a Stanley #5 at a garage sale today. ($11, don't know if that is a
gloat or not.)
It works, but obviously needs to be sharpened. I have never sharpened
anything before. A little advice on how to do it, or a good link, would be
appreciated.
I don't need to make it "scary-sharp", just reasonably sharp so it will work
a little better. Thanks.
I am debating whether or not to go back for the Milwaukee right-angle drill
they had for $40. I might not ever need it, but it sure will be money well
spent if I do. I guess I going to hedge; if it is still there tomorrow,
they will probably take $25.
"John" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I am debating whether or not to go back for the Milwaukee right-angle
drill
> they had for $40. I might not ever need it, but it sure will be money
well
> spent if I do. I guess I going to hedge; if it is still there tomorrow,
> they will probably take $25.
Rule of thumb with yard sales, flea markets, estate sales, even Sam's
discount club:
If you like it the first time you see it, buy it. 9 times out of 10 when
you go back to get it, someone else already has. (Sam's usually doesn't
carry the same "special" more than once.) DAMHIKT.
--
I still can't understand people buying $30,000 trucks to haul their $15,000
boats, using $100 of gas, to catch $5 worth of fish.
Duke
Thanks! ....Both good sites!
"Hock Tools" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> http://www.hocktools.com/sharpen.htm
>
> Ron Hock
> HOCK TOOLS
> www.hocktools.com
>
>
[email protected] wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 19:18:49 GMT, JG <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >Hock Tools wrote:
> >
> >> http://www.hocktools.com/sharpen.htm
> >
> >SHILL!!!!
>
> hang on a second there....
>
>
> Ron's post has good woodworking info in it.
>
> Yours has?
FYI, I'm pretty sure John G was just teasing Ron. Back when John
was known as Spokeshave and taught shavemaking classes, he had Ron
make up special blades for his shaves.
Chuck Vance (who uses Hock irons in his #4, #7, #60-1/2, #80,
plus a couple of wooden planes and has a large and small
Hock/Guntershave.
On Fri, 28 May 2004 21:24:27 GMT, "Dave" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Get a Tormek
For the price of a Tormek I bought my Norris A5 and still had enough
change left to equip for scary sharp.
Dave wrote:
> Get a Tormek
>
> "Ken Muldrew" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > "John" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > >I sharpened it according to the instructions (I bought a wet stone many
> > >years ago and never actually used it until today) and the results great.
> > >I edge-jointed a piece of rough cherry and it came out pretty decent.
> > >And yes, I can see why even sharper would be better. I will work on it.
> >
> > Once you get the hang of it, the difference between getting a blade
> > pretty sharp, and getting it scary sharp, is less than a minute.
> > You'll never spend a few seconds so profitably as here (unless you're
> > in the habit of cutting pieces too short, in which case the measure
> > twice rule would be an even more profitable use of a few seconds, but
> > the point is that learning to sharpen well is a skill that will reward
> > you in spades as a woodworker).
> >
> > Ken Muldrew
> > [email protected]
> > (remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
I have a Tormek. That is a nice tool, and I use it for the first stages, but it does
not do scary sharp. The hand touch is what gives me the results I seek. I especially
like 3M's Imperial lapping films. Awesome and dry to boot !
Ken Muldrew is quite correct.
Hoyt W.
JG wrote:
> No just baiting the newbies who have no clue who I am/was.
> I don't even want to THINK of how many Hock Iron's I own ;-(
> Nice to see he FINALLY came out with a cap iron though.
> I was only pestering him for like 3 or 4 years to do it.
And nice, thick cap irons they are. I've got one on a #6 of mine,
very slick.
Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
"John" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I sharpened it according to the instructions (I bought a wet stone many
>years ago and never actually used it until today) and the results great.
>I edge-jointed a piece of rough cherry and it came out pretty decent.
>And yes, I can see why even sharper would be better. I will work on it.
Once you get the hang of it, the difference between getting a blade
pretty sharp, and getting it scary sharp, is less than a minute.
You'll never spend a few seconds so profitably as here (unless you're
in the habit of cutting pieces too short, in which case the measure
twice rule would be an even more profitable use of a few seconds, but
the point is that learning to sharpen well is a skill that will reward
you in spades as a woodworker).
Ken Muldrew
[email protected]
(remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 19:18:49 GMT, JG <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>Hock Tools wrote:
>
>> http://www.hocktools.com/sharpen.htm
>
>SHILL!!!!
>
>--
hang on a second there....
Ron's post has good woodworking info in it.
Yours has?
> Have a look at:
>
> http://www.geoffswoodwork.co.uk/Stanley%20Page%2012.gif
>
> For the basics. Have a look at the rest of the site for other useful
> plane-related info.
I sharpened it according to the instructions (I bought a wet stone many
years ago and never actually used it until today) and the results great.
I edge-jointed a piece of rough cherry and it came out pretty decent.
And yes, I can see why even sharper would be better. I will work on it.
Thanks.
>
> > I don't need to make it "scary-sharp", just reasonably sharp so it will
> work
> > a little better. Thanks.
>
> Oh, yes you do. Whether or not you use the scary-sharp method or not, you
> need shaving-sharp, or it will not perform to its best: it will take
longer,
> you will not enjoy using it, it'll cost you much more effort, and you'll
> have a second-rate surface afterwards.
>
> It's a decent plane and you got it at a good price. Learn how to sharpen
it
> properly and keep it that way and it will become a lifelong friend.
T'ain't
> that hard.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.688 / Virus Database: 449 - Release Date: 19/05/2004
>
>
Conan The Librarian wrote:
> FYI, I'm pretty sure John G was just teasing Ron.
No just baiting the newbies who have no clue who I am/was.
> Back when John
> was known as Spokeshave and taught shavemaking classes, he had Ron
> make up special blades for his shaves.
Indeed, even crashed on his couch and used one of his finest knives to
shave up some smoked salmon his Bro' brought for breakfast. what a great
weekend in Ft. Bragg.
> Chuck Vance (who uses Hock irons in his #4, #7, #60-1/2, #80,
> plus a couple of wooden planes and has a large and small
> Hock/Guntershave.
I don't even want to THINK of how many Hock Iron's I own ;-(
Nice to see he FINALLY came out with a cap iron though.
I was only pestering him for like 3 or 4 years to do it.
--
John G. in Memphis, TN Have a nice......... night.
http://www.shavings.net/images/Memphis/reflect_john.jpg
[email protected] wrote:
> I guess I need to get more irony in my diet.....
I hear the best is from Medicino area of CA
somewhere around the other end of Rt. 20 from Willits.
--
John G. in Memphis, TN Have a nice......... night.
http://www.shavings.net/images/Memphis/reflect_john.jpg
"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in news:f6Otc.15233$Ly.3155@attbi_s01:
> Get a Tormek
>
> "Ken Muldrew" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "John" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >I sharpened it according to the instructions (I bought a wet stone
>> >many years ago and never actually used it until today) and the
>> >results great. I edge-jointed a piece of rough cherry and it came
>> >out pretty decent. And yes, I can see why even sharper would be
>> >better. I will work on it.
>>
>> Once you get the hang of it, the difference between getting a blade
>> pretty sharp, and getting it scary sharp, is less than a minute.
>> You'll never spend a few seconds so profitably as here (unless you're
>> in the habit of cutting pieces too short, in which case the measure
>> twice rule would be an even more profitable use of a few seconds, but
>> the point is that learning to sharpen well is a skill that will
>> reward you in spades as a woodworker).
>>
>> Ken Muldrew
>> [email protected]
>> (remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
>
>
A Tormek is a great tool, but hundreds of dollars to sharpen a first plane?
Cheaper to buy replacement blades from Lee-Valley!
Scary sharp is a system of sharpening plane irons and chisels, in your
shop, with less than $20 worth of materials, and maybe 10 minutes of
learning time.
At least as good an investment as your $11 jack (also a good deal, by the
way.)
Patriarch
JG <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>
> Hock Tools wrote:
>
>> http://www.hocktools.com/sharpen.htm
>
> SHILL!!!!
>
yabbutt.... It isn't like he charges for the information! ;-)
He DOES sell fine blades, however. Even for spokeshaves. ;-)
Patriarch
dave in fairfax <[email protected]> wrote in news:40BFB05E.64CC88A2
@fairfax.com:
> Nope, plug. Still nice blades though.
>
> Dave in Farfax
>
And don't forget the chip breakers; those are mighty fine, also ...
Regards,
JT
"John" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I bought a Stanley #5 at a garage sale today. ($11, don't know if that is
a
> gloat or not.)
> It works, but obviously needs to be sharpened. I have never sharpened
> anything before. A little advice on how to do it, or a good link, would
be
> appreciated.
John,
Have a look at:
http://www.geoffswoodwork.co.uk/Stanley%20Page%2012.gif
For the basics. Have a look at the rest of the site for other useful
plane-related info.
> I don't need to make it "scary-sharp", just reasonably sharp so it will
work
> a little better. Thanks.
Oh, yes you do. Whether or not you use the scary-sharp method or not, you
need shaving-sharp, or it will not perform to its best: it will take longer,
you will not enjoy using it, it'll cost you much more effort, and you'll
have a second-rate surface afterwards.
It's a decent plane and you got it at a good price. Learn how to sharpen it
properly and keep it that way and it will become a lifelong friend. T'ain't
that hard.
Cheers,
Frank
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.688 / Virus Database: 449 - Release Date: 19/05/2004
> I have a Tormek. That is a nice tool, and I use it for the first stages,
but it does
> not do scary sharp. The hand touch is what gives me the results I seek. I
especially
> like 3M's Imperial lapping films. Awesome and dry to boot !
>
> Ken Muldrew is quite correct.
>
> Hoyt W.
>
> What grades do you use, and where did you find yours, locally or on line?
Also I see on 3M's site there are several thicknesses, which do you use?
Thanks.
--
Paul O.
[email protected]
Get a Tormek
"Ken Muldrew" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "John" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I sharpened it according to the instructions (I bought a wet stone many
> >years ago and never actually used it until today) and the results great.
> >I edge-jointed a piece of rough cherry and it came out pretty decent.
> >And yes, I can see why even sharper would be better. I will work on it.
>
> Once you get the hang of it, the difference between getting a blade
> pretty sharp, and getting it scary sharp, is less than a minute.
> You'll never spend a few seconds so profitably as here (unless you're
> in the habit of cutting pieces too short, in which case the measure
> twice rule would be an even more profitable use of a few seconds, but
> the point is that learning to sharpen well is a skill that will reward
> you in spades as a woodworker).
>
> Ken Muldrew
> [email protected]
> (remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
> "John" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I bought a Stanley #5 at a garage sale today. ($11, don't know if that
is
That is a good price.I just looked at the reference and it fails to mention
flattening the back.
That is where I start, by getting the back side really flat, using a coarse
stone and following up with a finer stone.
If you thing about it the working end of that blade really needs to be a v
not a u. Hard to show using plain text.
I happen to use water stones but oil stones will work just as well.
I do have a little eclipse honing guide which will give better results for
having the same angle clear across.
Anne
On Fri, 28 May 2004 17:36:27 GMT, "John" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I bought a Stanley #5 at a garage sale today. ($11, don't know if that is a
>gloat or not.)
>It works, but obviously needs to be sharpened. I have never sharpened
>anything before. A little advice on how to do it, or a good link, would be
>appreciated.
>I don't need to make it "scary-sharp", just reasonably sharp so it will work
>a little better. Thanks.
>
>I am debating whether or not to go back for the Milwaukee right-angle drill
>they had for $40. I might not ever need it, but it sure will be money well
>spent if I do. I guess I going to hedge; if it is still there tomorrow,
>they will probably take $25.
>
Sharpening is an important skill and activity in the shop. Although
both have only black-and-white photos here's two good books:
The Complete Guide to Sharpening, Leonard Lee, The Taunton Press,
1995, ISBN 1-56158-067-8
Sharpening The Complete Guide, Jim Kingshott, Guild of Master
Craftsman Publications Ltd., 1994, ISBN 0-946819-48-3
On Sat, 05 Jun 2004 03:42:37 GMT, JG <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>[email protected] wrote:
>> I guess I need to get more irony in my diet.....
>
>I hear the best is from Medicino area of CA
>somewhere around the other end of Rt. 20 from Willits.
been planning a trip up thataways for ages. might make it later this
summer....
On 4 Jun 2004 05:44:13 -0700, [email protected] (Conan The Librarian)
wrote:
>[email protected] wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>
>> On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 19:18:49 GMT, JG <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >Hock Tools wrote:
>> >
>> >> http://www.hocktools.com/sharpen.htm
>> >
>> >SHILL!!!!
>>
>> hang on a second there....
>>
>>
>> Ron's post has good woodworking info in it.
>>
>> Yours has?
>
> FYI, I'm pretty sure John G was just teasing Ron. Back when John
>was known as Spokeshave and taught shavemaking classes, he had Ron
>make up special blades for his shaves.
>
>
> Chuck Vance (who uses Hock irons in his #4, #7, #60-1/2, #80,
>plus a couple of wooden planes and has a large and small
>Hock/Guntershave.
Ahh.....
I guess I need to get more irony in my diet.....