On Tuesday, September 27, 2016 at 9:56:08 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
> So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade. What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
Actually, it lasts a fairly long time. For $19.95, you can't afford to sharpen it, you just get a new one.
I did not want to mention this, because of the flack I would/will take, but I did a side by side with a Woodworker II and sent the WW2 back.
Michael <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt
> fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade.
> What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
Just out of curiosity have you checked the alignment of your fence and
blade? It seems to me that burning is caused by rubbing, and a dull blade
will do it, but there's also the possibility of a slight misalignment of
the fence contributing.
Puckdropper
"Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> Mike, IF you have $20 laying around try the 50tooth C3 blade from
> Harbor Freight. I know, I know, but just try it.
I just got a new 20% coupon in the mail, so if you're getting flyers you'll
probably have one soon. Often you can pick the flyer up in the store as
well.
Puckdropper
"Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> Actually, it lasts a fairly long time. For $19.95, you can't afford
> to sharpen it, you just get a new one.
>
> I did not want to mention this, because of the flack I would/will
> take, but I did a side by side with a Woodworker II and sent the WW2
> back.
What? You're a complete fool and water maroon. There's no wayz your cheap
bladez runz az goodz as a Fess Tool Woodworker II!!!!!!elevenhundredeleven
I might have to pop in to HF and pick one of them up to see. I've started
running Bosch blades with C3 carbide in my TS. They seem to be good
quality, at least as good as the Freuds from HD.
Puckdropper
On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 9:31:11 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
> On Tuesday, September 27, 2016 at 9:56:08 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
> > So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt fi=
ne crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade. What's the=
recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
> >=20
> > Thanks,
> >=20
> > Mike
>=20
> Mike, IF you have $20 laying around try the 50tooth C3 blade from Harbor =
Freight. I know, I know, but just try it.
Ok, Dr. Deb. I successfully negotiated 5pm traffic and the bad music inside=
the Harbor Freight store and bought the Admiral 50tooth C3 blade. That's t=
he first time I've been in HF.Things feel a little cheap in there, but I'm =
hopeful about this blade. I'll put it on later and try it out and issue a r=
eport. Also, thanks for the coupon! Sadly, it did not work for the blade.
Mike
On 9/28/2016 9:48 AM, Michael wrote:
> On Tuesday, September 27, 2016 at 9:56:08 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
>> So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a
>> Dewalt fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better
>> blade. What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the
>> line.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mike
>
> Great advice from everyone. Much appreciated! The burns are scorches
> and easily removed when I ran them across the jointer. Other scorches
> are on the tenon, so they won't be seen. Yes, there is residue on the
> blade so I'll definitely try cleaning that first. Also, I'm going to
> buy a good quality rip and cross cut blade today but I understand now
> that rock maple is just a wood that burns sometimes. I did check my
> fence because I thought the same thing -- maybe it was getting
> slightly jammed. But last night I was cutting tenons with a tenoning
> jig, and the wood was burning, even when I was made very shallow
> cuts. I love the beauty, smell, and feel of this wood, but damn it is
> hard.
>
> Mike
>
So cleaning up a cut with a jointer works but if you are cutting your
wood to the final width on the TS the jointer throws the accuracy of the
cut down the drain. Technically you should never use a jointer to clean
up a cut except for mill marks. And seriously, with a decent scraper it
only takes a pass or two to remove shallow scorch marks.
On 10/1/2016 9:47 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
> On Tuesday, September 27, 2016 at 9:56:08 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
>> So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade. What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mike
>
> Actually, it lasts a fairly long time. For $19.95, you can't afford to sharpen it, you just get a new one.
>
> I did not want to mention this, because of the flack I would/will take, but I did a side by side with a Woodworker II and sent the WW2 back.
>
Define a fairly long time. For occasionally use that is perfectly fine.
I have a WWII that has been sharpened 3 times in 17 years. My total
all in cost of that is under $200. Building an average of 7 pieces of
furniture per year.
Your are right about reshaprening, that would be a minimum of $25.
On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 4:31:55 AM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
> Michael <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt
> > fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade.
> > What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Mike
>
> Just out of curiosity have you checked the alignment of your fence and
> blade? It seems to me that burning is caused by rubbing, and a dull blade
> will do it, but there's also the possibility of a slight misalignment of
> the fence contributing.
>
> Puckdropper
Are you ripping with that blade? You might want to use a blade designed for ripping (less teeth) if that's the case...
On 10/1/2016 10:31 AM, Brewster wrote:
> On 9/28/16 6:31 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
>> Michael <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> there is residue on the blade so I'll definitely try cleaning
>>> that first.
>>
>> Best and cheapest way of cleaning the residue from your blade: get a
>> plastic dishpan that's
>> large enough to lay the blade down flat. Then dissolve 1/4 cup of
>> washing soda in 1 quart of
>> warm water in the dishpan. Lay the blade down in it, and let it soak
>> five to ten minutes. Most of
>> the residue will wipe off with a sponge. Anything that remains can be
>> scrubbed off easily with
>> an old toothbrush, nylon pot scrubber, etc.
>>
>> Washing soda can be found in the laundry aisle of most grocery stores.
>> I buy the Arm &
>> Hammer brand -- box looks just like Arm & Hammer baking soda, except a
>> lot bigger.
>>
> +1 for the washing soda.
>
> "Simple Green" also works great. I use a 5-qt. oil drain pan from Wally
> World, as cheap as cheap can get.
>
> -BR
>
The lid from a 5 gallon plastic bucket works well as a shallow pan. No
worries about damaging a tooth, conserves whatever cleaning solution you
pick.
On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 6:37:24 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
> On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 9:31:11 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
> > On Tuesday, September 27, 2016 at 9:56:08 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
> > > So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt =
fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade. What's t=
he recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
> > >=20
> > > Thanks,
> > >=20
> > > Mike
> >=20
> > Mike, IF you have $20 laying around try the 50tooth C3 blade from Harbo=
r Freight. I know, I know, but just try it.
>=20
> Ok, Dr. Deb. I successfully negotiated 5pm traffic and the bad music insi=
de the Harbor Freight store and bought the Admiral 50tooth C3 blade. That's=
the first time I've been in HF.Things feel a little cheap in there, but I'=
m hopeful about this blade. I'll put it on later and try it out and issue a=
report. Also, thanks for the coupon! Sadly, it did not work for the blade.
>=20
> Mike
So, Dr. Deb, where do I sent your consulting fee? That Harbor Freight blade=
cuts through hard maple like buttah. I'm not sure how long it will, but it=
's working great now.
Leon, you are sooo right that the jointer can throw off square. I appreciat=
e the help.
Mike
On 9/30/2016 7:26 PM, Michael wrote:
> On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 6:37:24 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
>> On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 9:31:11 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb
>> wrote:
>>> On Tuesday, September 27, 2016 at 9:56:08 PM UTC-5, Michael
>>> wrote:
>>>> So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a
>>>> Dewalt fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a
>>>> new/better blade. What's the recommendation? I can't afford
>>>> top, top of the line.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Mike, IF you have $20 laying around try the 50tooth C3 blade from
>>> Harbor Freight. I know, I know, but just try it.
>>
>> Ok, Dr. Deb. I successfully negotiated 5pm traffic and the bad
>> music inside the Harbor Freight store and bought the Admiral
>> 50tooth C3 blade. That's the first time I've been in HF.Things feel
>> a little cheap in there, but I'm hopeful about this blade. I'll put
>> it on later and try it out and issue a report. Also, thanks for the
>> coupon! Sadly, it did not work for the blade.
>>
>> Mike
>
> So, Dr. Deb, where do I sent your consulting fee? That Harbor Freight
> blade cuts through hard maple like buttah. I'm not sure how long it
> will, but it's working great now.
>
> Leon, you are sooo right that the jointer can throw off square. I
> appreciate the help.
>
> Mike
>
Wow Mike, I appreciate your recognizing that fact so quickly, it
commonly falls on deaf ears. The jointer is mostly for conditioning
before shaping, not shaping after cutting. ;~) Good on you!
On 9/28/2016 3:37 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 09:27:45 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On 9/27/2016 9:56 PM, Michael wrote:
>>>> So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt
>>>> fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade.
>>>> What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
>>>
>>> Not uncommon for hard maple to burn, even though your setup and
>>> alignment is good, and a sharp blade, with proper tooth is mounted.
>>
>> Burnt sugar is black. ;-)
>
> I suspect that is not far from wrong. Whire oak is only slightly softer
> than sugar maple and hickory is consideraby harder (about 40%) and I've
> never had much problem with either burning., gotta be someting IN the maple
> that causes it.
>
>
Possibly because it is white. Any discoloration will show up. On woods
with color any slight discoloration may be masked.
On 9/28/2016 7:25 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 9/27/2016 10:56 PM, Michael wrote:
>> So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt
>> fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade.
>> What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mike
>>
> what you don't say is what you are doing.
>
> Are you crosscutting?
> Are you ripping?
>
> Generally if you feed to slow you will burn maple or any wood.
> Too fast, and the wood will let you know.
> Is your alignment ok, or did something cause it to be out of alignment?
>
> For less than high end, try the freud blades.. pretty good.
> For high end, FW II.. nothing better IMHO.
>
One more thing. The blade should be high enough to clear the gullets.
Also the higher it is the faster you can cut, since the teet are cutting
down, rather than at at 30 or 45 degrees to the sidecut for instance.
--
Jeff
On 9/27/2016 10:56 PM, Michael wrote:
> So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade. What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
>
what you don't say is what you are doing.
Are you crosscutting?
Are you ripping?
Generally if you feed to slow you will burn maple or any wood.
Too fast, and the wood will let you know.
Is your alignment ok, or did something cause it to be out of alignment?
For less than high end, try the freud blades.. pretty good.
For high end, FW II.. nothing better IMHO.
--
Jeff
On 9/27/2016 9:56 PM, Michael wrote:
> So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade. What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
Not uncommon for hard maple to burn, even though your setup and
alignment is good, and a sharp blade, with proper tooth is mounted.
Together, all those factors might not even totally eliminate some
burning, but hopefully they'll mitigate the burn marks so they're not so
deep that they can't be scraped/sanded off.
I use a good deal of hard maple for face frames, and, since the marks
are usually on edge grain, I find a Hyde scraper to be a handy tool to
have around when working with it.
There are quite a few Hyde scraper options, but this one, and
replacement blades, can usually be found a Borgs, and it won't break
your budget:
http://hydestore.com/hyde-10530-1-1-2-lifetime-scraper-4-edge-blade.html
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 9/27/2016 10:56 PM, Michael wrote:
> So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade. What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
>
If you cannot afford a Ridge Carbide blade, send the DeWalt to them for
sharpening. It will come back better than new.
http://ridgecarbidetool.com/sharpening-service/
On 9/28/2016 3:48 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 3:26:26 PM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
>> "Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>>
>>> Mike, IF you have $20 laying around try the 50tooth C3 blade from
>>> Harbor Freight. I know, I know, but just try it.
>>
>
> Don't you think 50T is a lot for a ripping blade? I was thinking more like 24T to 30T...
>
At one time I worked for a guitar mfg. They ripped many board feet of hard maple
with no problems. It was a heavy, three phase Delta with a 10" blade. The blade
was a ~ 24 tooth carbide. I don't recall it ever getting dull. I remember
walking into the saw area and some fool had put a plain steel, crosscut, blade
on the saw. He started to rip a 2" thick piece of maple and got about 4" into
the cut when the blade started to smoke and turn black. That was as far as he
got. I suppose that was when they went to carbide. :-)
I'll bet the OP just needs a sharp rip blade.
Michael <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> there is residue on the blade so I'll definitely try cleaning
> that first.
Best and cheapest way of cleaning the residue from your blade: get a plastic dishpan that's
large enough to lay the blade down flat. Then dissolve 1/4 cup of washing soda in 1 quart of
warm water in the dishpan. Lay the blade down in it, and let it soak five to ten minutes. Most of
the residue will wipe off with a sponge. Anything that remains can be scrubbed off easily with
an old toothbrush, nylon pot scrubber, etc.
Washing soda can be found in the laundry aisle of most grocery stores. I buy the Arm &
Hammer brand -- box looks just like Arm & Hammer baking soda, except a lot bigger.
Michael <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I went ahead and bought Rockler's pitch and resin remover. It
> was 12 bucks for a spray bottle. It's not supposed to harm the
> blade's coating.
Neither will washing soda. And 12 bucks worth of washing soda will clean your saw blades for
the rest of your life.
On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 9:31:04 AM UTC-5, Brewster wrote:
> On 9/28/16 6:31 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
> > Michael <[email protected]> wrote in
> > news:[email protected]:
> >
> >> there is residue on the blade so I'll definitely try cleaning
> >> that first.
> >
> > Best and cheapest way of cleaning the residue from your blade: get a plastic dishpan that's
> > large enough to lay the blade down flat. Then dissolve 1/4 cup of washing soda in 1 quart of
> > warm water in the dishpan. Lay the blade down in it, and let it soak five to ten minutes. Most of
> > the residue will wipe off with a sponge. Anything that remains can be scrubbed off easily with
> > an old toothbrush, nylon pot scrubber, etc.
> >
> > Washing soda can be found in the laundry aisle of most grocery stores. I buy the Arm &
> > Hammer brand -- box looks just like Arm & Hammer baking soda, except a lot bigger.
> >
> +1 for the washing soda.
>
> "Simple Green" also works great. I use a 5-qt. oil drain pan from Wally
> World, as cheap as cheap can get.
>
> -BR
I went ahead and bought Rockler's pitch and resin remover. It was 12 bucks for a spray bottle. It's not supposed to harm the blade's coating.
Mike
On Tuesday, September 27, 2016 at 9:56:08 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
> So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt fine=
crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade. What's the r=
ecommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
>=20
> Thanks,
>=20
> Mike
Great advice from everyone. Much appreciated! The burns are scorches and ea=
sily removed when I ran them across the jointer. Other scorches are on the =
tenon, so they won't be seen. Yes, there is residue on the blade so I'll de=
finitely try cleaning that first. Also, I'm going to buy a good quality rip=
and cross cut blade today but I understand now that rock maple is just a w=
ood that burns sometimes. I did check my fence because I thought the same t=
hing -- maybe it was getting slightly jammed. But last night I was cutting =
tenons with a tenoning jig, and the wood was burning, even when I was made =
very shallow cuts. I love the beauty, smell, and feel of this wood, but dam=
n it is hard.
Mike
On Tuesday, September 27, 2016 at 9:56:08 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
> So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade. What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
Mike, IF you have $20 laying around try the 50tooth C3 blade from Harbor Freight. I know, I know, but just try it.
On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 3:26:26 PM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
> "Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> >
> > Mike, IF you have $20 laying around try the 50tooth C3 blade from
> > Harbor Freight. I know, I know, but just try it.
>
Don't you think 50T is a lot for a ripping blade? I was thinking more like 24T to 30T...
On 10/1/2016 9:42 AM, Michael wrote:
> On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 9:31:04 AM UTC-5, Brewster wrote:
>> On 9/28/16 6:31 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
>>> Michael <[email protected]> wrote in
>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> there is residue on the blade so I'll definitely try cleaning
>>>> that first.
>>>
>>> Best and cheapest way of cleaning the residue from your blade: get a plastic dishpan that's
>>> large enough to lay the blade down flat. Then dissolve 1/4 cup of washing soda in 1 quart of
>>> warm water in the dishpan. Lay the blade down in it, and let it soak five to ten minutes. Most of
>>> the residue will wipe off with a sponge. Anything that remains can be scrubbed off easily with
>>> an old toothbrush, nylon pot scrubber, etc.
>>>
>>> Washing soda can be found in the laundry aisle of most grocery stores. I buy the Arm &
>>> Hammer brand -- box looks just like Arm & Hammer baking soda, except a lot bigger.
>>>
>> +1 for the washing soda.
>>
>> "Simple Green" also works great. I use a 5-qt. oil drain pan from Wally
>> World, as cheap as cheap can get.
>>
>> -BR
>
> I went ahead and bought Rockler's pitch and resin remover. It was 12 bucks for a spray bottle. It's not supposed to harm the blade's coating.
>
> Mike
>
Another bio degradable cleaner that works quickly is CMT2050. The small
bottle will clean a blade, for me, about 10~15 times. No need to
submerge the blade, just spray on and let it sit a couple of minutes and
wipe off. It has a citrus orange aroma.
http://www.wwhardware.com/cmt-bit-and-blade-cleaner-cmt998-001-01
On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 3:26:26 PM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
> "Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> >
> > Mike, IF you have $20 laying around try the 50tooth C3 blade from
> > Harbor Freight. I know, I know, but just try it.
>
> I just got a new 20% coupon in the mail, so if you're getting flyers you'll
> probably have one soon. Often you can pick the flyer up in the store as
> well.
>
> Puckdropper
Or just get them off the web...
http://www.harborfreight.com/digitalsavings.html
I'll often bring up the flyer on my smartphone and then have the
clerk scan the image. I've never been denied and often used the
same coupon image multiple times. Different days, but the same
image.
On Tue, 27 Sep 2016 19:56:06 -0700 (PDT), Michael
<[email protected]> wrote:
>So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt fine crosscut blade on it now.
> I assume I need a new/better blade. What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
>Thanks,
>Mike
Other posts have good advice - alignment, sharpening, etc
Also - I have found that a good cleaning of the blade can help -
residue from gummy wood - or possibly in your case -
the burning has caused a build-up ? it only takes a miniscule amount
of residue ..
My one attempt to work with hard maple, many years ago,
was my last ... I learned why it was called rock maple.
John T.
On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 09:27:45 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 9/27/2016 9:56 PM, Michael wrote:
>> So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade. What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
>
>Not uncommon for hard maple to burn, even though your setup and
>alignment is good, and a sharp blade, with proper tooth is mounted.
Burnt sugar is black. ;-)
On Tue, 27 Sep 2016 19:56:06 -0700 (PDT), Michael
<[email protected]> wrote:
>So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade. What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
Are you sure your miter slot is parallel to the blade? Your fence
adjusted perfectly perpendicular to the table edge?
"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 09:27:45 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On 9/27/2016 9:56 PM, Michael wrote:
>>> So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt
>>> fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade.
>>> What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
>>
>>Not uncommon for hard maple to burn, even though your setup and
>>alignment is good, and a sharp blade, with proper tooth is mounted.
>
> Burnt sugar is black. ;-)
I suspect that is not far from wrong. Whire oak is only slightly softer
than sugar maple and hickory is consideraby harder (about 40%) and I've
never had much problem with either burning., gotta be someting IN the maple
that causes it.
On 9/28/16 6:31 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
> Michael <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> there is residue on the blade so I'll definitely try cleaning
>> that first.
>
> Best and cheapest way of cleaning the residue from your blade: get a plastic dishpan that's
> large enough to lay the blade down flat. Then dissolve 1/4 cup of washing soda in 1 quart of
> warm water in the dishpan. Lay the blade down in it, and let it soak five to ten minutes. Most of
> the residue will wipe off with a sponge. Anything that remains can be scrubbed off easily with
> an old toothbrush, nylon pot scrubber, etc.
>
> Washing soda can be found in the laundry aisle of most grocery stores. I buy the Arm &
> Hammer brand -- box looks just like Arm & Hammer baking soda, except a lot bigger.
>
+1 for the washing soda.
"Simple Green" also works great. I use a 5-qt. oil drain pan from Wally
World, as cheap as cheap can get.
-BR
On 9/27/2016 9:56 PM, Michael wrote:
> So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade. What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
>
Because maple and especially hard maple is so dense it is hard to not
get burn marks unless every thing is in order.
It is a must to have your equipment set up correctly so that there is
minimal contact with the blade teeth.
Your blade must be decent quality, clean, and sharp.
You should also be using the right kind of blade for the type of cut you
are making. If you are ripping with a cross cut blade that is your problem.
Your saw must have enough HP to power through the cut so that the wood
is not being burned from a slow feed rate.
The maple must be good quality such that it does not begin to bow during
the cut, on rips, and pinch back against the blade or push the work away
from the fence and against the blade.
If the burning is simply scorch marks those can normally very easily be
removed by running a sharp scraper along the edge of a rip cut.