Sorry but reposting this one as I forgot to add the diagrammers, and
couldn't post them in a reply. Probably my server is on the blink.
Thanks and here goes again:
RVModeler wrote:
> Have decided to build a stool to practise some jointing techniques.
Its a Bar stool, and the legs do not go straight up and down, but are
set wider on the floor, slightly, than at the seat.
>
> My problem, is with the joint on the brace, seen here in this diagram:
>
> Leg.jpg
>
>
> If a tenon is used, the problem is with cutting the slot. This slot
requires cutting either slightly larger, as the hole will be at an angle
to the joining tenon. This would give an area not filled by the tenon,
and so make a sloppy fit, unless I cut the tenon at 90 degrees to the
shoulder, so it goes into the slot parallel , better but making marking
out very difficult.
>
> Shown in Leg2.jpg is the tenon and slot cut at 90 degrees to the
surface/edge of the work, not allowing for the angle required.
>
> Or the work needs fixing to a jig so the slot is cut into the leg at
an angle, so matching the tenon going into it. This way once the parts
are machined they will line up giving the required angle to the leg.
>
> Which of these would give a better, but possibly easier joint?
>
> If both way out please offer suggestions, and instructions on how to
make a better joint, but please keep as simple as possible as I still
have lots to learn?
>
> Many thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
>
> RV
RVModeler wrote:
> Sorry but reposting this one as I forgot to add the diagrammers, and
> couldn't post them in a reply. Probably my server is on the blink.
>
> Thanks and here goes again:
>
> RVModeler wrote:
>
> > Have decided to build a stool to practise some jointing techniques.
> Its a Bar stool, and the legs do not go straight up and down, but are
> set wider on the floor, slightly, than at the seat.
> >
> > My problem, is with the joint on the brace, seen here in this diagram:
> >
> > Leg.jpg
> >
> >
> > If a tenon is used, the problem is with cutting the slot. This slot
> requires cutting either slightly larger, as the hole will be at an angle
> to the joining tenon. This would give an area not filled by the tenon,
> and so make a sloppy fit, unless I cut the tenon at 90 degrees to the
> shoulder, so it goes into the slot parallel , better but making marking
> out very difficult.
Depending upon the angle, here's a possibility. Cut the mortises and
tenons straight then angle the bottom of the mortise with a mortise
chisel to leave the same outside gap above and below the tenon. Saw
cut across the tenon near the top and bottom and drive a couple of
wedges in to lock the tenon into the mortise. You won't even need any
glue.
On Tue, 30 May 2006 11:44:18 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:
>No -- you simply can't post binary attachments in a text-only newsgroup. If
>you try, it's automatically stripped off.
>
>Post binaries at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.
I'd agree with this, and am looking forward to seeing a picture of the
problem ...a thousand words and all that. He should let us know when
it is available there and what to look for.
In article <[email protected]>, RVModeler <[email protected]> wrote:
>Sorry but reposting this one as I forgot to add the diagrammers, and
>couldn't post them in a reply. Probably my server is on the blink.
No -- you simply can't post binary attachments in a text-only newsgroup. If
you try, it's automatically stripped off.
Post binaries at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.