Not that I'm an expert by any stretch, but it sounds as if you are
seriously over tightening your arbor nut. For an alternate opinion
check out the Q&A section of the Winter 2004/2005 FWW (no affiliation
with them, just happen to see the article this week). It suggests hand
holding the blade to tighten and loosen the blade by whacking the wrench
with a small stick. This would mean the nut is much looser than yours
is now. I'm sure there are other opinions out there.
Tom Holman wrote:
> Trying to remove a plywood blade, and when I lodge a piece of hard maple
> against it, it is not enough to prevent blade from turning and nut on arbor
> will not move. I am trying to move it counterclockwise. Anyone have any
> tricks? Help!
>
>
On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 10:15:15 -0500, "Tom Holman"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Trying to remove a plywood blade, and when I lodge a piece of hard maple
>against it, it is not enough to prevent blade from turning and nut on arbor
>will not move. I am trying to move it counterclockwise. Anyone have any
>tricks? Help!
I can't believe that a PM66 dosen't have arbor flats for a second
wrench. If it really dosen't, lose the wood and try one of the
following to hold the blade:
A heavy work glove
A quick clamp with plastic pads
A commercial blade gripper like the Bench Dog BladeLoc
Barry
Tom Holman wrote:
> Trying to remove a plywood blade, and when I lodge a piece of hard maple
> against it, it is not enough to prevent blade from turning and nut on
> arbor will not move. I am trying to move it counterclockwise. Anyone have
> any tricks? Help!
Had that problem with the factory blade on my shiny new Crapsman TS. I
bought one of those Blade-Loc flummies from LV, and all it did was get
turned to orange shreds. I tried wood (various woods, various sizes) under
a tooth. I could eventually wrench hard enough to saw through the wood, or
break it.
What finally worked was a steel rod hooked in one of the gullets and
spanning the throat. I think it was 1/4" rod, and I bent the hell out of
it before I finally got the blade loose.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
Generally the jaws of a vise grip are curved so that the actual clamping
point would be well inboard of the teeth (especially a plywood blade's small
teeth). Alternatively, your idea of using wooden pads would also mitigate
damage to the blade's teeth. This method doesn't seem any more damaging to
a blade that ramming wood into the blades to stop it turning.
Just curious, but does a plywood blade have separate welded teeth or is it
just a one-piece stamped steel disk with teeth cut into it?
"Greg Millen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "TEF" wrote in message ...
> > One method of holding the blade while truning the arbor nut is to clamp
> > the
> > blade with vise grips (as a caliper grabs a rotor on a car). The vise
> > grips
> > will not pass thru the throat plate opening and will prevent the blade
> > from
> > spinning while you apply pressure to the nut with a wrench. It will
also
> > free up your other hand.
>
> Tom,
>
> I thought about that solution, but wonder if clamping the blade may cause
> other problems, such as bending the blade, affecting tensioning or
> cracking/weakening a weld on a tooth.
>
> I also thought of sandwiching the blade between two pieces of wood, then
> clamping - but once again, I am not comfortable with the idea. Any experts
> on blades out there care to comment?
>
>
> --
> Greg (who thankfully has an arbour nut that comes loose easily)
>
>
I believe a better approach is a sharp whack on the wrench
with a suitable board will almost certainly break the
nut loose. Remember, you ain't playing baseball, just trying
to break loose the nut.
Tom Holman wrote:
> Trying to remove a plywood blade, and when I lodge a piece of hard maple
> against it, it is not enough to prevent blade from turning and nut on arbor
> will not move. I am trying to move it counterclockwise. Anyone have any
> tricks? Help!
>
>
I use those plastic Quick Clamps such as Irwin's with the big rubber pads.
They can be used one handed. You clamp the blade and let the clamp rest on
the saw table.
max
> Generally the jaws of a vise grip are curved so that the actual clamping
> point would be well inboard of the teeth (especially a plywood blade's small
> teeth). Alternatively, your idea of using wooden pads would also mitigate
> damage to the blade's teeth. This method doesn't seem any more damaging to
> a blade that ramming wood into the blades to stop it turning.
>
> Just curious, but does a plywood blade have separate welded teeth or is it
> just a one-piece stamped steel disk with teeth cut into it?
>
>
> "Greg Millen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "TEF" wrote in message ...
>>> One method of holding the blade while truning the arbor nut is to clamp
>>> the
>>> blade with vise grips (as a caliper grabs a rotor on a car). The vise
>>> grips
>>> will not pass thru the throat plate opening and will prevent the blade
>>> from
>>> spinning while you apply pressure to the nut with a wrench. It will
> also
>>> free up your other hand.
>>
>> Tom,
>>
>> I thought about that solution, but wonder if clamping the blade may cause
>> other problems, such as bending the blade, affecting tensioning or
>> cracking/weakening a weld on a tooth.
>>
>> I also thought of sandwiching the blade between two pieces of wood, then
>> clamping - but once again, I am not comfortable with the idea. Any experts
>> on blades out there care to comment?
>>
>>
>> --
>> Greg (who thankfully has an arbour nut that comes loose easily)
>>
>>
>
>
Thanks for the tip to use Liquid Wrench. It did the trick! However, I had to
sacrifice a very inexpensive Oldham Plywood saw blade -- that was a small
price I gladly paid. If I had overtightened the arbor nut, then it is very
difficult to gauge how tight is too tight and how loose renders the
operation of the saw unsafe. It took enormnous force even after the Liquid
Wrench was applied to move the nut very slightly before it would turn
easily. Given the slight turn that was required I doubt that the nut was
overtightened to begin with.
Thanks to all who attempted to answer my question, and I appreciate all the
suggestions that were made.
"Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 10:15:15 -0500, "Tom Holman"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Trying to remove a plywood blade, and when I lodge a piece of hard maple
> >against it, it is not enough to prevent blade from turning and nut on
arbor
> >will not move. I am trying to move it counterclockwise. Anyone have any
> >tricks? Help!
> >
>
> Try another piece of wood. I've tried a clamp and found the jammed
> wood works better. I like using a soft wood as it bites into the
> teeth better. Put a couple drops of Liquid Wrench on the threads and
> (lightly) tap the wrench with a piece of wood.
>
Glad to help. You may want to clean off the arbor and arbor nut
threads with kerosene and a small brass brush which will help clean
off rust and keep rust away.
On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 20:49:24 -0500, "Tom Holman"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Thanks for the tip to use Liquid Wrench. It did the trick! However, I had to
>sacrifice a very inexpensive Oldham Plywood saw blade -- that was a small
>price I gladly paid. If I had overtightened the arbor nut, then it is very
>difficult to gauge how tight is too tight and how loose renders the
>operation of the saw unsafe. It took enormnous force even after the Liquid
>Wrench was applied to move the nut very slightly before it would turn
>easily. Given the slight turn that was required I doubt that the nut was
>overtightened to begin with.
>
>Thanks to all who attempted to answer my question, and I appreciate all the
>suggestions that were made.
>"Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 10:15:15 -0500, "Tom Holman"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >Trying to remove a plywood blade, and when I lodge a piece of hard maple
>> >against it, it is not enough to prevent blade from turning and nut on
>arbor
>> >will not move. I am trying to move it counterclockwise. Anyone have any
>> >tricks? Help!
>> >
>>
>> Try another piece of wood. I've tried a clamp and found the jammed
>> wood works better. I like using a soft wood as it bites into the
>> teeth better. Put a couple drops of Liquid Wrench on the threads and
>> (lightly) tap the wrench with a piece of wood.
>>
>
On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 10:15:15 -0500, "Tom Holman"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Trying to remove a plywood blade, and when I lodge a piece of hard maple
>against it, it is not enough to prevent blade from turning and nut on arbor
>will not move. I am trying to move it counterclockwise. Anyone have any
>tricks? Help!
>
Try another piece of wood. I've tried a clamp and found the jammed
wood works better. I like using a soft wood as it bites into the
teeth better. Put a couple drops of Liquid Wrench on the threads and
(lightly) tap the wrench with a piece of wood.
"TEF" wrote in message ...
> One method of holding the blade while truning the arbor nut is to clamp
> the
> blade with vise grips (as a caliper grabs a rotor on a car). The vise
> grips
> will not pass thru the throat plate opening and will prevent the blade
> from
> spinning while you apply pressure to the nut with a wrench. It will also
> free up your other hand.
Tom,
I thought about that solution, but wonder if clamping the blade may cause
other problems, such as bending the blade, affecting tensioning or
cracking/weakening a weld on a tooth.
I also thought of sandwiching the blade between two pieces of wood, then
clamping - but once again, I am not comfortable with the idea. Any experts
on blades out there care to comment?
--
Greg (who thankfully has an arbour nut that comes loose easily)
One method of holding the blade while truning the arbor nut is to clamp the
blade with vise grips (as a caliper grabs a rotor on a car). The vise grips
will not pass thru the throat plate opening and will prevent the blade from
spinning while you apply pressure to the nut with a wrench. It will also
free up your other hand.
"Tom Holman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Trying to remove a plywood blade, and when I lodge a piece of hard maple
> against it, it is not enough to prevent blade from turning and nut on
arbor
> will not move. I am trying to move it counterclockwise. Anyone have any
> tricks? Help!
>
>