My next big project, if I ever get the d*mn shop in order is
bookcases. We have TONS of books.
Anyways, I have plenty of plans for a case, so that's not what I
asking asstance on. It is the installation of the cases.
The house has wall-to-wall carpeting and 1/2 base molding
in the rooms where there will be the cases. I know the
tackless strip for the w-to-w will raise the back end of the
case up a bit and the 1/2 molding will force it from the wall,
so that means the case is just not going to be straight
and stable.
How best do I handle this? Do I put in leveling blocks in the front
and raise the front to match the offset from the tackless and do
I pull the molding and cut it fit the cases against the wall.
I already figured that I would tie the cases to the wall, as we
live in earthquake country. That's a given. But in all of the
plans I have, they don't talk about either the molding or tackless
strip.
So how do you do it?
Thanks much.
MJ Wallace
How did you find a carpet guy to do such a small job. I live in S.
California and it is virtually impossible to get a skilled trade person
to do a small job. No one wants to pay a visit unless it is $200 or
more.
Mike wrote:
> On 29 May 2005 20:29:26 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
> >How best do I handle this? Do I put in leveling blocks in the front
> >and raise the front to match the offset from the tackless and do
> >I pull the molding and cut it fit the cases against the wall.
>
> We just built and installed an entertainment center in a room with a
> carpeted floor. We pulled the carpet back, removed the tack strip
> and base board, installed the cabinet, cut the carpet (somewhat long)
> back to the cabinet re-installed, the base board and had the carpet
> guy come to install new tack strip and re-stretch to the cabinet. I
> know it's not the easiest way but if the installation is going to be
> permanent, I would recommend going to the trouble. If you can do the
> stretch you can save a little money but a re-stretch is not too
> expensive.
>
> Mike O.
Tom:
>
> What I've always done is cut the bottom at an angle that allows for
> the tack strip at the bottom.
>
> This angle is similar to what I do at the top, which allows me to
> stand up a 120" box in a 120" space.
>
> It keeps the rest of the work going in the right direction.
How to best measure this angle? Do you level off the back
of the tack strip to where the bookcase will end in the
front and then just figure it out?
These and the other suggestions are quite helpful. I think
I will go with the leveling blocks in front. I'm not
after a build-in look for the cases, so it doesn't
matter if the wrap around the base molding. I came to
that conclusion just recently. On other cases I will
want a built-in look, so I will cut the molding to
fit the case. But for those, it will be on hardwood
floors, so carpet is involved.
Thanks for all of the replies.
MJ Wallace
On 31 May 2005 16:48:35 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>Tom:
>>
>> What I've always done is cut the bottom at an angle that allows for
>> the tack strip at the bottom.
>>
>> This angle is similar to what I do at the top, which allows me to
>> stand up a 120" box in a 120" space.
>>
>> It keeps the rest of the work going in the right direction.
>
>How to best measure this angle? Do you level off the back
>of the tack strip to where the bookcase will end in the
>front and then just figure it out?
>
>These and the other suggestions are quite helpful. I think
>I will go with the leveling blocks in front. I'm not
>after a build-in look for the cases, so it doesn't
>matter if the wrap around the base molding. I came to
>that conclusion just recently. On other cases I will
>want a built-in look, so I will cut the molding to
>fit the case. But for those, it will be on hardwood
>floors, so carpet is involved.
>
>Thanks for all of the replies.
>
>MJ Wallace
Start out by measuring the diagonal of the box that you are
installing.
If the measured diagonal does not allow for the tack strip - measure
the wall relief a distance from ninety at least equal to the height of
the tack strip.
Tom Watson - WoodDorker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/ (website)
On 31 May 2005 13:07:19 -0700, "Jerry" <[email protected]> wrote:
>How did you find a carpet guy to do such a small job. I live in S.
>California and it is virtually impossible to get a skilled trade person
>to do a small job. No one wants to pay a visit unless it is $200 or
>more.
Most of the flooring companies around here have a re-stretch service.
In the case above, the home was one that was recently built and the
builder called his carpet guy.
Mike O.
Adjustable feet into blocks on the front corners.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My next big project, if I ever get the d*mn shop in order is
> bookcases. We have TONS of books.
>
> Anyways, I have plenty of plans for a case, so that's not what I
> asking asstance on. It is the installation of the cases.
>
> The house has wall-to-wall carpeting and 1/2 base molding
> in the rooms where there will be the cases. I know the
> tackless strip for the w-to-w will raise the back end of the
> case up a bit and the 1/2 molding will force it from the wall,
> so that means the case is just not going to be straight
> and stable.
>
> How best do I handle this? Do I put in leveling blocks in the front
> and raise the front to match the offset from the tackless and do
> I pull the molding and cut it fit the cases against the wall.
>
> I already figured that I would tie the cases to the wall, as we
> live in earthquake country. That's a given. But in all of the
> plans I have, they don't talk about either the molding or tackless
> strip.
>
> So how do you do it?
>
> Thanks much.
>
> MJ Wallace
>
On 29 May 2005 20:29:26 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>How best do I handle this? Do I put in leveling blocks in the front
>and raise the front to match the offset from the tackless and do
>I pull the molding and cut it fit the cases against the wall.
We just built and installed an entertainment center in a room with a
carpeted floor. We pulled the carpet back, removed the tack strip
and base board, installed the cabinet, cut the carpet (somewhat long)
back to the cabinet re-installed, the base board and had the carpet
guy come to install new tack strip and re-stretch to the cabinet. I
know it's not the easiest way but if the installation is going to be
permanent, I would recommend going to the trouble. If you can do the
stretch you can save a little money but a re-stretch is not too
expensive.
Mike O.
I use wooden blocks at the front of bookcases to level them. As you
stated, use L brackets at the top of the case where there is a wall
stud--yes, how well I know about quakes.
On 29 May 2005 20:29:26 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>My next big project, if I ever get the d*mn shop in order is
>bookcases. We have TONS of books.
>
>Anyways, I have plenty of plans for a case, so that's not what I
>asking asstance on. It is the installation of the cases.
>
>The house has wall-to-wall carpeting and 1/2 base molding
>in the rooms where there will be the cases. I know the
>tackless strip for the w-to-w will raise the back end of the
>case up a bit and the 1/2 molding will force it from the wall,
>so that means the case is just not going to be straight
>and stable.
>
>How best do I handle this? Do I put in leveling blocks in the front
>and raise the front to match the offset from the tackless and do
>I pull the molding and cut it fit the cases against the wall.
>
>I already figured that I would tie the cases to the wall, as we
>live in earthquake country. That's a given. But in all of the
>plans I have, they don't talk about either the molding or tackless
>strip.
>
>So how do you do it?
>
>Thanks much.
>
>MJ Wallace
On 29 May 2005 20:29:26 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>My next big project, if I ever get the d*mn shop in order is
>bookcases. We have TONS of books.
>
>Anyways, I have plenty of plans for a case, so that's not what I
>asking asstance on. It is the installation of the cases.
>
>The house has wall-to-wall carpeting and 1/2 base molding
>in the rooms where there will be the cases. I know the
>tackless strip for the w-to-w will raise the back end of the
>case up a bit and the 1/2 molding will force it from the wall,
>so that means the case is just not going to be straight
>and stable.
>
>How best do I handle this? Do I put in leveling blocks in the front
>and raise the front to match the offset from the tackless and do
>I pull the molding and cut it fit the cases against the wall.
>
>I already figured that I would tie the cases to the wall, as we
>live in earthquake country. That's a given. But in all of the
>plans I have, they don't talk about either the molding or tackless
>strip.
>
>So how do you do it?
>
>Thanks much.
>
>MJ Wallace
What I've always done is cut the bottom at an angle that allows for
the tack strip at the bottom.
This angle is similar to what I do at the top, which allows me to
stand up a 120" box in a 120" space.
It keeps the rest of the work going in the right direction.
When I have to cut out for carpet, I make the base a bit tight, and
cut to an angle on the bottom.
When you smack the base in with a block, the point of the angle grabs
the carpet and pulls it back.
Nail it off.
Done.
Tom Watson - WoodDorker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/ (website)
<[email protected]> wrote in message
> case up a bit and the 1/2 molding will force it from the wall,
> so that means the case is just not going to be straight
> and stable. How best do I handle this?
I've always cut out a section, a curve or whatever at the back of the
bookcase to conform to the moulding. It's dead space anyway because your
bookcase is going to have at least a few inches height of toe kick, right?