I'm picking up some KD maple this weekend to finally build a workbench. The
guy has about 150 BF of 8/4 and plenty of 4/4. Originally I was going to get
all 4/4 but after thinking about it I can't see any reason except the $.30
difference not to get 8/4. The main thing steering me to the 8/4 is thicker
stock means less glue up. I can't seem to find any single thing that would
make 4/4 a must have.
I'm building something fairly simple. A Veritas Twin-Screw on one end and a
front vise of some sort. Round dog holes and a simple mortise and tenon
base. Most likely a tool tray of some sort.
Does anyone have an opinion or experience of his or her own to share that
might help me decide?
One consideration is for glue up, you'll be able to pull in 4/4 stock
easier with the clamps if you have any bow, etc. and need to clamp out
the gaps. 8/4 will be a lot harder to make behave. If you do it, I'd
suggest pipe clamps with crank handles so you can really get some
squeeze wher you need it.
When I do edge grain cutting boards or cutting board tops I mix it up
with 4/4 and 6/4. I do sort of a random mix just to add interest to the
piece. When I am building a wide piece (like the 2 - 2"x24"x36" I just
did), I glue up several 8 to 9" wide slabs first. Then the next day I
glue up the slabs into the final piece. Maple is notorious for bowing
and trying to glue up a 24" wide slab of sticks in one shot would
likely end up with some un-closable gaps out in the cenetr; even with
the best jointing.
"Patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "joeD" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> I'm picking up some KD maple this weekend to finally build a
>> workbench. The guy has about 150 BF of 8/4 and plenty of 4/4.
>> Originally I was going to get all 4/4 but after thinking about it I
>> can't see any reason except the $.30 difference not to get 8/4. The
>> main thing steering me to the 8/4 is thicker stock means less glue up.
>> I can't seem to find any single thing that would make 4/4 a must have.
>>
>
> 8/4. You're going to have enough flattening, straightening, aligning and
> mortising to do, without buying yourself more. Besides, the heavier stock
> is traditional on a workbench.
>
> Of course, at my shop, glued-up 2x construction lumber, with an oops door
> from the door shop is traditional.
>
> But I won't be posting any pictures to FWW Current Work of that bench. ;-)
Ahh, they don't know what they are missing. <g>.
I'm a proud owner of a door (birch I might add) workshop table.
SH
Me too. Mine was part of a closet door from a few moves ago. I have a
Sjoberg work bench, but it is always getting buried with stuff. When I need
to, I pull down the closet door from its overhead rack, put it up on horses
and I have a nice clean work surface. When I am done, it can be put away.
Steve
>> Of course, at my shop, glued-up 2x construction lumber, with an oops door
>> from the door shop is traditional.
>>
>> But I won't be posting any pictures to FWW Current Work of that bench.
>> ;-)
>
> Ahh, they don't know what they are missing. <g>.
> I'm a proud owner of a door (birch I might add) workshop table.
> SH
>
>
"joeD" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I'm picking up some KD maple this weekend to finally build a
> workbench. The guy has about 150 BF of 8/4 and plenty of 4/4.
> Originally I was going to get all 4/4 but after thinking about it I
> can't see any reason except the $.30 difference not to get 8/4. The
> main thing steering me to the 8/4 is thicker stock means less glue up.
> I can't seem to find any single thing that would make 4/4 a must have.
>
8/4. You're going to have enough flattening, straightening, aligning and
mortising to do, without buying yourself more. Besides, the heavier stock
is traditional on a workbench.
Of course, at my shop, glued-up 2x construction lumber, with an oops door
from the door shop is traditional.
But I won't be posting any pictures to FWW Current Work of that bench. ;-)
Patriarch
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> joeD wrote:
>
> > Does anyone have an opinion or experience of his or her own to share
that
> > might help me decide?
>
> This one is a no brainer.
>
> 8/4 allows you to get some quarter sawn pieces, 4/4 does not.
>
> There is nothing quite like the look of quarter sawn lumber, IMHO.
>
> Lew
I'm failing to see how 4/4 does not allow the boards to be quarter sawn. It
can be quarter sawn just the same as 8/4. Can't it?
-j
Lew,
I'm all for QS wood. All of the things that are good about it structurally
apply to a bench as well. However, if you take 24 flat sawn 1x3 boards and
laminte them to make a 3-inch-thick by 24" top, you have created what is
essentially one big honk'n QS board.
My point is that to end up with a QS top you need flatsawn boards, because
the laminations a turned on edge.
-Steve
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> J wrote:
>
> > I'm failing to see how 4/4 does not allow the boards to be quarter sawn.
It
> > can be quarter sawn just the same as 8/4. Can't it?
>
> Yes, but you often und up with small pieces.
>
> Easier job with 8/4 stock.
>
> Lew
> When I do edge grain cutting boards or cutting board tops I mix it up
> with 4/4 and 6/4. I do sort of a random mix just to add interest to the
> piece. When I am building a wide piece (like the 2 - 2"x24"x36" I just
> did), I glue up several 8 to 9" wide slabs first. Then the next day I
> glue up the slabs into the final piece. Maple is notorious for bowing
> and trying to glue up a 24" wide slab of sticks in one shot would
> likely end up with some un-closable gaps out in the cenetr; even with
> the best jointing.
When I did it, I had 5/4 Maple. The boards were as thick as I could make
them getting 2 sides surfaced. That is anywhere between 7/8 and 1-1/8 that
lent a little bit of randomness.
I glued up 4 6-inch subassemblies, and rejointed those before final glue-up.
A whole top at once sounds insane to me.
-Steve
> It's pretty easy to make round dog holes - all you need is a drill - but if
> you use 4/4 at least for the parts of the bench that will have the rows of dog
> holes, it's even easier to make square ones: just don't put any wood there.
>
> Given what you're looking at... I think I'd go with mostly 8/4, and use 4/4
> where I wanted dog holes.
>
>
Now that's a pretty unique idea! Plenty of 4/4 maple around here that is actually
3/4" thick, easy to saw out the slats with 88º ends and integrate them into the gang
gluing between the 8/4 pieces. Might do that! DING!
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
In article <[email protected]>, "joeD" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm picking up some KD maple this weekend to finally build a workbench. The
>guy has about 150 BF of 8/4 and plenty of 4/4. Originally I was going to get
>all 4/4 but after thinking about it I can't see any reason except the $.30
>difference not to get 8/4. The main thing steering me to the 8/4 is thicker
>stock means less glue up. I can't seem to find any single thing that would
>make 4/4 a must have.
>
>I'm building something fairly simple. A Veritas Twin-Screw on one end and a
>front vise of some sort. Round dog holes and a simple mortise and tenon
>base. Most likely a tool tray of some sort.
>
>Does anyone have an opinion or experience of his or her own to share that
>might help me decide?
It's pretty easy to make round dog holes - all you need is a drill - but if
you use 4/4 at least for the parts of the bench that will have the rows of dog
holes, it's even easier to make square ones: just don't put any wood there.
Given what you're looking at... I think I'd go with mostly 8/4, and use 4/4
where I wanted dog holes.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
Stephen M wrote:
> Lew,
>
> I'm all for QS wood. All of the things that are good about it structurally
> apply to a bench as well. However, if you take 24 flat sawn 1x3 boards and
> laminte them to make a 3-inch-thick by 24" top, you have created what is
> essentially one big honk'n QS board.
>
> My point is that to end up with a QS top you need flatsawn boards, because
> the laminations a turned on edge.
>
> -Steve
That works for me.
Laminating 1x stock will yield a better top than laminating 2x stock;
however, I was looking past the bench at other possible projects.
Lew