Cc

Chrisgiraffe

14/11/2007 6:41 PM

Cedar substitute

I recently made a small cedar box and finished it with an amber spar
varnish. I am blown away (in a good sense) by the grain/color but
troubled by the wood's softness and tendency to split. The box walls
were thicknessed to 1/4" and in some spots 1/8" which seems to push
the limit of sturdiness for cedar. Does anyone know of a wood that has
a color/figure roughly similar to cedar but with more durability? I
prefer something with a tight grain pattern to something like oak and
something domestic (USA) and common to exotic if possible. Any
suggestions?



Thanks in advance.


This topic has 6 replies

CS

Charlie Self

in reply to Chrisgiraffe on 14/11/2007 6:41 PM

16/11/2007 8:21 AM

On Nov 15, 12:56 am, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am thinking Cedar like they line closets with that is redish with
> darker grain lines and white wood, not the more yellow kind they use
> in construction. I don't think Cedar is a hardwood. I've never used it
> but I have some Adirondack chairs I want to try it with. Without going
> for an exotic you might try Cherry. It can have the white sap wood
> like Cedar (if you like that). It can be really beautiful when
> finished properly. When its freshly sanded it can be pretty bright but
> it will quickly darken.
>
> On Nov 14, 6:41 pm, Chrisgiraffe <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I recently made a small cedar box and finished it with an amber spar
> > varnish. I am blown away (in a good sense) by the grain/color but
> > troubled by the wood's softness and tendency to split. The box walls
> > were thicknessed to 1/4" and in some spots 1/8" which seems to push
> > the limit of sturdiness for cedar. Does anyone know of a wood that has
> > a color/figure roughly similar to cedar but with more durability? I
> > prefer something with a tight grain pattern to something like oak and
> > something domestic (USA) and common to exotic if possible. Any
> > suggestions?
>
> > Thanks in advance.

First, cherry is NOT an exotic. It's a native hardwood. The OP ran
into the reason why cedar is often used for lining, and less often
used for an entire project. I made my wife a jewelry box from it many
years ago, though, and that's fine--5/8" and thicker stock.

If he's using Eastern redcedar, which is a native softwood, not much
else comes close in figure, though he might like flame cherry (except
for the price). Cherry is just about the king of current U.S.
hardwoods, and is priced accordingly, with highly figured woods going
for more. Walnut might also work, though it's more brown than red, and
darker. Oddly enough, over time cherry darkens, while walnut lightens,
when exposed to light.

Using wood of any kind that is 1/4" thick gets you to about the bottom
limit if durability is needed. Going to 1/8" means a hardwood is
almost absolutely essential. Possibly, if he can find it, Ashe juniper
would do, but it's hard to locate...mostly in the Ozarks and into
Texas, where it's called Texas cedar. Port-Orford cedar might work,
but the wood is in limited supply as the trees get rarer. It is
expensive. Western redcedar might also be better than the knotty
eastern version, but it is also in less thahn plentiful supply.

I'd go for cherry and line it with 3/16" thick redcedar, probably
Eastern, because there is a LOT of that around here.

Sb

"SonomaProducts.com"

in reply to Chrisgiraffe on 14/11/2007 6:41 PM

14/11/2007 9:56 PM

I am thinking Cedar like they line closets with that is redish with
darker grain lines and white wood, not the more yellow kind they use
in construction. I don't think Cedar is a hardwood. I've never used it
but I have some Adirondack chairs I want to try it with. Without going
for an exotic you might try Cherry. It can have the white sap wood
like Cedar (if you like that). It can be really beautiful when
finished properly. When its freshly sanded it can be pretty bright but
it will quickly darken.

On Nov 14, 6:41 pm, Chrisgiraffe <[email protected]> wrote:
> I recently made a small cedar box and finished it with an amber spar
> varnish. I am blown away (in a good sense) by the grain/color but
> troubled by the wood's softness and tendency to split. The box walls
> were thicknessed to 1/4" and in some spots 1/8" which seems to push
> the limit of sturdiness for cedar. Does anyone know of a wood that has
> a color/figure roughly similar to cedar but with more durability? I
> prefer something with a tight grain pattern to something like oak and
> something domestic (USA) and common to exotic if possible. Any
> suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance.

SI

Smaug Ichorfang

in reply to Chrisgiraffe on 14/11/2007 6:41 PM

15/11/2007 6:27 AM

Chrisgiraffe <[email protected]> wrote in news:20a17895-61d9-4b59-a5ed-
[email protected]:

> I recently made a small cedar box and finished it with an amber spar
> varnish. I am blown away (in a good sense) by the grain/color but
> troubled by the wood's softness and tendency to split. The box walls
> were thicknessed to 1/4" and in some spots 1/8" which seems to push
> the limit of sturdiness for cedar. Does anyone know of a wood that has
> a color/figure roughly similar to cedar but with more durability? I
> prefer something with a tight grain pattern to something like oak and
> something domestic (USA) and common to exotic if possible. Any
> suggestions?
>
There's cedar, and there's cedar. There's the cedar like is used for fence
posts, and there's aromatic cedar (juniper). The fence cedar is usually
pretty bland, but can have some figuring. The juniper usually has lots of
color and figure. Either way, I would recomend sapele as a substitute.
It's a lot like mahogany (another substitute for cedar), but harder and
more durable (it's used for flooring). Check out:

http://www.dustystrings.com/building/harp_woods_sapele.shtml
http://www.jacaranda.com/links/ribbon-sapele-qc-big.jpg
http://www.acfairbankconsulting.ca/images/vicwood/designs/sapele9qsm.jpg

Where to buy:

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5364

Ft

Fred the Red Shirt

in reply to Chrisgiraffe on 14/11/2007 6:41 PM

16/11/2007 10:53 AM

On Nov 16, 4:21 pm, Charlie Self <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Nov 15, 12:56 am, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> First, cherry is NOT an exotic. It's a native hardwood.

And Eastern Aromatic Red Cedar (a Juniper) is a native softwood
in the Eastern Mid Atlantic and Southeastern US states.

Of course if OP is posting from Panama, then Cherry and
Cedar would be exotics...

--

FF

TT

Tanus

in reply to Chrisgiraffe on 14/11/2007 6:41 PM

15/11/2007 6:06 PM

Chrisgiraffe wrote:
> I recently made a small cedar box and finished it with an amber spar
> varnish. I am blown away (in a good sense) by the grain/color but
> troubled by the wood's softness and tendency to split. The box walls
> were thicknessed to 1/4" and in some spots 1/8" which seems to push
> the limit of sturdiness for cedar. Does anyone know of a wood that has
> a color/figure roughly similar to cedar but with more durability? I
> prefer something with a tight grain pattern to something like oak and
> something domestic (USA) and common to exotic if possible. Any
> suggestions?
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.

I like oak. It's easy to work with, has
a nice grain and finishes nicely. I made
a few of them last year as Christmas
things and they were well received.
Here's a picture of one of them.

http://users.compzone.ca/george/shop/boxes.html


--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://users.compzone.ca/george/shop/

HR

[email protected] (Ross Hebeisen)

in reply to Tanus on 15/11/2007 6:06 PM

15/11/2007 9:23 PM

you should check out black ash, grows here in the upper midwest in low
to swampy areas. average growth ring count is 18 rings per inch.
grain is somewhat like red oak, sandy brown in color and not as heavy or
dense as oak. also black ash burl for exotic wood, this would make very
nice and off the beaten trail boxs. can be seen on my website
www.highislandexport.com
ross


You’ve reached the end of replies