I'm new to routing and am looking to buy some straight bits. I have noticed
some router bits are called plunge bits and they seem to have a carbide edge
on the bottom of the bit. Does this mean that regular straight bits cannot
be plunged into the wood?
I also want to purchase a top-bearing guided straight bit to do some
template cuts in 1/2 to 3/4 plywood, mdf and 5/4 or thinner boards. The cut
length required I can figure out, the 1/2" shank seems to be recommended by
all.
So given a 1/2" shank, 1" cut length, top-mounted bearing straight
bit.....what diameter should i pick and why does it make a difference...i
have seen them from 3/4" to 1 1/4". I am not cutting dados or grooves, but
flush trimming guided by a template.
All feedback is appreciated.
--
Regards, - Al
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
email: [email protected]
To send email remove dashes in username
and nospam from the server name.
Buy 'em all. Or as needed. Tom
>Subject: Router bit question
>From: "Al in South Fla" [email protected]
>Date: 10/09/2003 11:57 AM US Mountain Standard Time
>Message-id: <[email protected]>
>
>I'm new to routing and am looking to buy some straight bits. I have noticed
>some router bits are called plunge bits and they seem to have a carbide edge
>on the bottom of the bit. Does this mean that regular straight bits cannot
>be plunged into the wood?
>
>I also want to purchase a top-bearing guided straight bit to do some
>template cuts in 1/2 to 3/4 plywood, mdf and 5/4 or thinner boards. The cut
>length required I can figure out, the 1/2" shank seems to be recommended by
>all.
>
>So given a 1/2" shank, 1" cut length, top-mounted bearing straight
>bit.....what diameter should i pick and why does it make a difference...i
>have seen them from 3/4" to 1 1/4". I am not cutting dados or grooves, but
>flush trimming guided by a template.
>
>All feedback is appreciated.
>
>--
>Regards, - Al
>Fort Lauderdale, Florida
>email: [email protected]
>To send email remove dashes in username
>and nospam from the server name.
Someday, it'll all be over....
Or one just over half the width of the template you're using. Sorry. Tom
>Subject: Router bit question
>From: "Al in South Fla" [email protected]
>Date: 10/09/2003 11:57 AM US Mountain Standard Time
>Message-id: <[email protected]>
>
>I'm new to routing and am looking to buy some straight bits. I have noticed
>some router bits are called plunge bits and they seem to have a carbide edge
>on the bottom of the bit. Does this mean that regular straight bits cannot
>be plunged into the wood?
>
>I also want to purchase a top-bearing guided straight bit to do some
>template cuts in 1/2 to 3/4 plywood, mdf and 5/4 or thinner boards. The cut
>length required I can figure out, the 1/2" shank seems to be recommended by
>all.
>
>So given a 1/2" shank, 1" cut length, top-mounted bearing straight
>bit.....what diameter should i pick and why does it make a difference...i
>have seen them from 3/4" to 1 1/4". I am not cutting dados or grooves, but
>flush trimming guided by a template.
>
>All feedback is appreciated.
>
>--
>Regards, - Al
>Fort Lauderdale, Florida
>email: [email protected]
>To send email remove dashes in username
>and nospam from the server name.
Someday, it'll all be over....
I'm not sure I understand this. If i trim along a template for distance of
12" for example, isn't the same amount of wood taken off by the router
bit...regardless of the bits diameter?
- Al
"John Manders" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I would use the smallest diameter you can get away with. That means less
> wood is made into chips so less work is done. Easier in the router, easier
> on you and less cleaning up to do.
>
> John
>
> "Al in South Fla" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I'm new to routing and am looking to buy some straight bits. I have
> noticed
> > some router bits are called plunge bits and they seem to have a carbide
> edge
> > on the bottom of the bit. Does this mean that regular straight bits
cannot
> > be plunged into the wood?
> >
> > I also want to purchase a top-bearing guided straight bit to do some
> > template cuts in 1/2 to 3/4 plywood, mdf and 5/4 or thinner boards. The
> cut
> > length required I can figure out, the 1/2" shank seems to be recommended
> by
> > all.
> >
> > So given a 1/2" shank, 1" cut length, top-mounted bearing straight
> > bit.....what diameter should i pick and why does it make a
difference...i
> > have seen them from 3/4" to 1 1/4". I am not cutting dados or grooves,
but
> > flush trimming guided by a template.
> >
> > All feedback is appreciated.
> >
> > --
> > Regards, - Al
> > Fort Lauderdale, Florida
> > email: [email protected]
> > To send email remove dashes in username
> > and nospam from the server name.
> >
> >
>
>
I would use the smallest diameter you can get away with. That means less
wood is made into chips so less work is done. Easier in the router, easier
on you and less cleaning up to do.
John
"Al in South Fla" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm new to routing and am looking to buy some straight bits. I have
noticed
> some router bits are called plunge bits and they seem to have a carbide
edge
> on the bottom of the bit. Does this mean that regular straight bits cannot
> be plunged into the wood?
>
> I also want to purchase a top-bearing guided straight bit to do some
> template cuts in 1/2 to 3/4 plywood, mdf and 5/4 or thinner boards. The
cut
> length required I can figure out, the 1/2" shank seems to be recommended
by
> all.
>
> So given a 1/2" shank, 1" cut length, top-mounted bearing straight
> bit.....what diameter should i pick and why does it make a difference...i
> have seen them from 3/4" to 1 1/4". I am not cutting dados or grooves, but
> flush trimming guided by a template.
>
> All feedback is appreciated.
>
> --
> Regards, - Al
> Fort Lauderdale, Florida
> email: [email protected]
> To send email remove dashes in username
> and nospam from the server name.
>
>