Photos of my latest shop project, TUTS (The Ultimate Taper Sled), here:
http://milmac.com/ShopPhotos/IMG_0276.JPG
http://milmac.com/ShopPhotos/IMG_0277.JPG
TUTS is a distillation of several taper sleds I've seen online, including Swingman's --
thanks, Karl -- plus a few ideas of my own.
Sled is 3/4" Baltic birch plywood attached to a UHMW runner that rides in the *left* miter slot
so that it can be operated from the end of the saw -- the reach is much easier, and I'm well
out of the way of anything that might kick back.
Front and rear stops ride on short pieces of T-track, three in all. Stops are made of 8/4
poplar (to all but eliminate any possibility of the stop marring the workpiece), cut to a blunt
point for improved positioning of the workpiece.
The range of movement on both stops is the same -- about 1.5" -- but the range of the front
stop is about 3/8" closer to the cut line. That way, the blade will enter the end of the stock
and exit the side. I have found this to make cleaner cuts than the other way around -- which
seems to be the way all commercial taper jigs are made.
Overall length of the sled is 36"; T-tracks are positioned at approximately 2", 22", and 33"
from the rear fence to accomodate legs of either end table or dining table length.
Sled width is approximately 8-1/2" -- made oversize, then trimmed to zero clearance after
attaching the rear fence and runner.
Hold-downs are DeStaCo 207-U toggle clamps with the hex nuts replaced by wing nuts for
easier height adjustment. Hold-downs will accomodate work from 1-3/8" to 2-1/2" thick.
Thinner stock can be clamped by using shims, or longer clamp studs; thicker stock gets cut
on the bandsaw.
Stops are 2 1/8" high -- so that even if I inadvertently position one of the stops so that the
clamp overhangs the cut line, the blade can't hit it. Stops are thick enough to double as
handles; they make a very good grip.
Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 7/4/2012 3:10 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
>> Photos of my latest shop project, TUTS (The Ultimate Taper
>> Sled), here:
>>
>> http://milmac.com/ShopPhotos/IMG_0276.JPG
>> http://milmac.com/ShopPhotos/IMG_0277.JPG
>>
>> TUTS is a distillation of several taper sleds I've seen online,
>> including Swingman's -- thanks, Karl -- plus a few ideas of my
>> own.
>>
>> Sled is 3/4" Baltic birch plywood attached to a UHMW runner
>> that rides in the *left* miter slot so that it can be operated
>> from the end of the saw -- the reach is much easier, and I'm
>> well out of the way of anything that might kick back.
>>
>> Front and rear stops ride on short pieces of T-track, three in
>> all. Stops are made of 8/4 poplar (to all but eliminate any
>> possibility of the stop marring the workpiece), cut to a blunt
>> point for improved positioning of the workpiece.
>>
>> The range of movement on both stops is the same -- about 1.5"
>> -- but the range of the front stop is about 3/8" closer to the
>> cut line. That way, the blade will enter the end of the stock
>> and exit the side. I have found this to make cleaner cuts than
>> the other way around -- which seems to be the way all
>> commercial taper jigs are made.
>>
>> Overall length of the sled is 36"; T-tracks are positioned at
>> approximately 2", 22", and 33" from the rear fence to
>> accomodate legs of either end table or dining table length.
>>
>> Sled width is approximately 8-1/2" -- made oversize, then
>> trimmed to zero clearance after attaching the rear fence and
>> runner.
>>
>> Hold-downs are DeStaCo 207-U toggle clamps with the hex nuts
>> replaced by wing nuts for easier height adjustment. Hold-downs
>> will accomodate work from 1-3/8" to 2-1/2" thick. Thinner stock
>> can be clamped by using shims, or longer clamp studs; thicker
>> stock gets cut on the bandsaw.
>>
>> Stops are 2 1/8" high -- so that even if I inadvertently
>> position one of the stops so that the clamp overhangs the cut
>> line, the blade can't hit it. Stops are thick enough to double
>> as handles; they make a very good grip.
>
> No, thank you! :)
>
> I like it much better than mine. I'm saving your photos for the
> next iteration. Well done.
Thanks, Karl. This is the third, and hopefully final, iteration
for me. Fourth iteration, counting the commercial jig I started
out with. This one has all of the good features of the previous
versions, plus a few more, and none of the bad ones.
Of course, after a couple of years of using it, I'll probably
think of one or two more features I should have put in...
tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Agreed, nice version. Wish I had thought of that. Very simple.
> I would make it a little more capable of a wider piece. Since I have had
> that need. But I like the design.
My initial drawings had it capable of pieces about an inch wider -- until I realized that with the
workpiece sitting on top of a 3/4" sled, the maximum *thickness* I can cut is limited by the
height of the blade to only about 2-1/2". Since the only thing that I have ever needed a taper
sled for -- and hence my purpose in designing this -- is cutting tapers on square table legs, I
decided there was no point in building a sled that would accomodatd a 3-1/2" width but only a
2-1/2" thickness.
On Thu, 5 Jul 2012 00:00:47 +0000 (UTC), Doug Miller
<[email protected]> wrote:
>tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> Agreed, nice version. Wish I had thought of that. Very simple.
>> I would make it a little more capable of a wider piece. Since I have had
>> that need. But I like the design.
>
>My initial drawings had it capable of pieces about an inch wider -- until I realized that with the
>workpiece sitting on top of a 3/4" sled, the maximum *thickness* I can cut is limited by the
>height of the blade to only about 2-1/2". Since the only thing that I have ever needed a taper
>sled for -- and hence my purpose in designing this -- is cutting tapers on square table legs, I
>decided there was no point in building a sled that would accomodatd a 3-1/2" width but only a
>2-1/2" thickness.
Elegant, saved the link for future use.
Mike M
Yep, for me I have had to cut other tapers.
When I built my lumber rack I had started with 2x8s and had to cut the
middle of two supports. My taper jig is a sled, but with carriage bolts
in slots .. but your's is much easier , easily reconfigurable, and well
done.
On 7/4/2012 8:00 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
> tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> Agreed, nice version. Wish I had thought of that. Very simple.
>> I would make it a little more capable of a wider piece. Since I have had
>> that need. But I like the design.
>
> My initial drawings had it capable of pieces about an inch wider -- until I realized that with the
> workpiece sitting on top of a 3/4" sled, the maximum *thickness* I can cut is limited by the
> height of the blade to only about 2-1/2". Since the only thing that I have ever needed a taper
> sled for -- and hence my purpose in designing this -- is cutting tapers on square table legs, I
> decided there was no point in building a sled that would accomodatd a 3-1/2" width but only a
> 2-1/2" thickness.
>
On 7/4/2012 3:10 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
> Photos of my latest shop project, TUTS (The Ultimate Taper Sled), here:
>
> http://milmac.com/ShopPhotos/IMG_0276.JPG
> http://milmac.com/ShopPhotos/IMG_0277.JPG
>
> TUTS is a distillation of several taper sleds I've seen online, including Swingman's --
> thanks, Karl -- plus a few ideas of my own.
>
> Sled is 3/4" Baltic birch plywood attached to a UHMW runner that rides in the *left* miter slot
> so that it can be operated from the end of the saw -- the reach is much easier, and I'm well
> out of the way of anything that might kick back.
>
> Front and rear stops ride on short pieces of T-track, three in all. Stops are made of 8/4
> poplar (to all but eliminate any possibility of the stop marring the workpiece), cut to a blunt
> point for improved positioning of the workpiece.
>
> The range of movement on both stops is the same -- about 1.5" -- but the range of the front
> stop is about 3/8" closer to the cut line. That way, the blade will enter the end of the stock
> and exit the side. I have found this to make cleaner cuts than the other way around -- which
> seems to be the way all commercial taper jigs are made.
>
> Overall length of the sled is 36"; T-tracks are positioned at approximately 2", 22", and 33"
> from the rear fence to accomodate legs of either end table or dining table length.
>
> Sled width is approximately 8-1/2" -- made oversize, then trimmed to zero clearance after
> attaching the rear fence and runner.
>
> Hold-downs are DeStaCo 207-U toggle clamps with the hex nuts replaced by wing nuts for
> easier height adjustment. Hold-downs will accomodate work from 1-3/8" to 2-1/2" thick.
> Thinner stock can be clamped by using shims, or longer clamp studs; thicker stock gets cut
> on the bandsaw.
>
> Stops are 2 1/8" high -- so that even if I inadvertently position one of the stops so that the
> clamp overhangs the cut line, the blade can't hit it. Stops are thick enough to double as
> handles; they make a very good grip.
No, thank you! :)
I like it much better than mine. I'm saving your photos for the next
iteration. Well done.
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop