Our local pub closed and sold off some tables. I bought a nice solid
wood oak one, with two drawers, but each was sealed shut from beneath
with two large screws (to keep people from putting empty crisp packets
in).
No problem I thought, but I can't budge the screws at all. I've hit
them on the head with a hammer, and put in some oil, but nothing works.
It looks like I will have to drill out the screws. Does anybody know
how I should do this? I have an elderly electric Black & Decker hammer
drill, but would it work on metal screws? And what kind of drill bit
should I buy? The screws appear to be standard slot-headed.
Thanks for any advice.
s.
Just ran across an add for a "damaged screw remover" Brand name is ALDEN Corp. Number is 800-832-5336 web addy is
www.alden.com for something call and "X-OUT" extracts 6-14 screws including specialty heads.
R. Wink
On Tue, 17 Aug 2004 19:33:05 +0100, "someone" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Went to B&Q, looking for a suitable drill bit and met a neighbour
>looking for paint.
>
>He suggested I drill holes *all around* the offending screws, yank them
>out with pliers, and fill the holes with plastic wood or some such.
>Sounds simple to me...of course, the finished product may not be a
>pretty sight.
>
>s.
>
One thing I have came up with for hard to remove screws is to take an old
flat file and grind the tip so its a perfect fit for the screw slot. grind
it with a concave tip so it will not cam out. Now insert the blade int the
slot and apply pressure and use an adjustable wrench on the file to rotate
it ....
One other is to get and old jennings brace bit and grind a screwdriver tip
on it and use the brace to turn the screw out ..good luck mjh
--
http://members.tripod.com/mikehide2
"someone" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Our local pub closed and sold off some tables. I bought a nice solid
> wood oak one, with two drawers, but each was sealed shut from beneath
> with two large screws (to keep people from putting empty crisp packets
> in).
>
> No problem I thought, but I can't budge the screws at all. I've hit
> them on the head with a hammer, and put in some oil, but nothing works.
>
> It looks like I will have to drill out the screws. Does anybody know
> how I should do this? I have an elderly electric Black & Decker hammer
> drill, but would it work on metal screws? And what kind of drill bit
> should I buy? The screws appear to be standard slot-headed.
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> s.
>
>
On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 20:13:51 +0000 (UTC), Henry E Schaffer <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
>>I've had excellent luck with a set of screw extrators from Sears. They
>>'bite' into the screwhead, and with your drill on reverse (and running
>>very slowly) they will allow you to back out the screw. ...
> This doesn't sound like any Sears product I've seen, so I took a quick
> look and it appears to be new since I last bought screw extractors from
> Sears. You seem to be describing the "Drill-Out" type - which I just
> found at their web site.
Yes, this isn't an easy-out type thing, it's basically a three-fluted left
hand drillbit. Sort of. Bites well _IF_ you put enough down-force on it.
> It looks quite interesting, and I wonder if it
> is better than just drilling with a drill bit, and then using one of the
> regular turn-counterclockwise type of extractors.
I can't imagine trying to use an easy-out in a metal screw in oak.
someone wrote:
>
> Our local pub closed and sold off some tables. I bought a nice solid
> wood oak one, with two drawers, but each was sealed shut from beneath
> with two large screws (to keep people from putting empty crisp packets
> in).
>
> No problem I thought, but I can't budge the screws at all. I've hit
> them on the head with a hammer, and put in some oil, but nothing works.
>
> It looks like I will have to drill out the screws. Does anybody know
> how I should do this? I have an elderly electric Black & Decker hammer
> drill, but would it work on metal screws? And what kind of drill bit
> should I buy? The screws appear to be standard slot-headed.
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> s.
Since it is on the bottom, I wouldn't do anything fancy. Just drill
them out. Of course if you want to get fancy them use a small drill
and take them out with a broken screw/bolt extractor. Get a set at
Harbor Freight.
someone wrote:
>
> Our local pub closed and sold off some tables. I bought a nice solid
> wood oak one, with two drawers, but each was sealed shut from beneath
> with two large screws (to keep people from putting empty crisp packets
> in).
>
> No problem I thought, but I can't budge the screws at all. I've hit
> them on the head with a hammer, and put in some oil, but nothing works.
>
> It looks like I will have to drill out the screws. Does anybody know
> how I should do this? I have an elderly electric Black & Decker hammer
> drill, but would it work on metal screws? And what kind of drill bit
> should I buy? The screws appear to be standard slot-headed.
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> s.
Since it is on the bottom, I wouldn't do anything fancy. Just drill
them out. Of course if you want to get fancy them use a small drill
and take them out with a broken screw/bolt extractor. Get a set at
Harbor Freight.
someone wrote:
>
> Our local pub closed and sold off some tables. I bought a nice solid
> wood oak one, with two drawers, but each was sealed shut from beneath
> with two large screws (to keep people from putting empty crisp packets
> in).
>
> No problem I thought, but I can't budge the screws at all. I've hit
> them on the head with a hammer, and put in some oil, but nothing works.
>
> It looks like I will have to drill out the screws. Does anybody know
> how I should do this? I have an elderly electric Black & Decker hammer
> drill, but would it work on metal screws? And what kind of drill bit
> should I buy? The screws appear to be standard slot-headed.
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> s.
Since it is on the bottom, I wouldn't do anything fancy. Just drill
them out. Of course if you want to get fancy them use a small drill
and take them out with a broken screw/bolt extractor. Get a set at
Harbor Freight.
someone wrote:
>
> Our local pub closed and sold off some tables. I bought a nice solid
> wood oak one, with two drawers, but each was sealed shut from beneath
> with two large screws (to keep people from putting empty crisp packets
> in).
>
> No problem I thought, but I can't budge the screws at all. I've hit
> them on the head with a hammer, and put in some oil, but nothing works.
>
> It looks like I will have to drill out the screws. Does anybody know
> how I should do this? I have an elderly electric Black & Decker hammer
> drill, but would it work on metal screws? And what kind of drill bit
> should I buy? The screws appear to be standard slot-headed.
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> s.
Since it is on the bottom, I wouldn't do anything fancy. Just drill
them out. Of course if you want to get fancy them use a small drill
and take them out with a broken screw/bolt extractor. Get a set at
Harbor Freight.
AArDvarK wrote:
>
> > Since it is on the bottom, I wouldn't do anything fancy. Just drill
> > them out. Of course if you want to get fancy them use a small drill
> > and take them out with a broken screw/bolt extractor. Get a set at
> > Harbor Freight.
>
> George just send once and wait a while. sometimes it takes a long time
> for a post to show here.
>
> Alex
Sorry about that, my computer was screwing up. I would hit send and
then it would just hang. Actually is shows up immediately in my sent
file, but didn't this time so I tried again--4 times. Again, sorry
about that.
On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 02:14:10 +0100, "someone" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Our local pub closed and sold off some tables. I bought a nice solid
>wood oak one, with two drawers, but each was sealed shut from beneath
>with two large screws (to keep people from putting empty crisp packets
>in).
>No problem I thought, but I can't budge the screws at all. I've hit
>them on the head with a hammer, and put in some oil, but nothing works.
>It looks like I will have to drill out the screws. Does anybody know
>how I should do this? I have an elderly electric Black & Decker hammer
>drill, but would it work on metal screws? And what kind of drill bit
>should I buy? The screws appear to be standard slot-headed.
>Thanks for any advice.
>s.
Assuming the slot is still good, better to use a screwdriver that :
- fits tight
-can afford to be thrown away later, then;
-hammer the driver into the head making a better fit, then;
-heat the driver in the gas till very hot, not white or red, then;
-hold the driver in the screw head transferring heat, then;
-re heat the driver and turn once tightening, then unscrew.
BoroLad
On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 09:25:10 -0400, "Bob" <[email protected]> wrote:
>see if you can pick up an impact screw driver
I've never known one work on wood - there's too much "squish" under
the impact.
--
Smert' spamionam
I've used a dremel with a cut off wheel to grind a new slot in the screw
then taken it out with a screwdriver. Doesn't always work but when it does
it doesn't do much damage to the surrounding wood.
Rick
"Henry E Schaffer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Chad Bender <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> It looks like I will have to drill out the screws. Does anybody know
> >> how I should do this? I have an elderly electric Black & Decker hammer
> >> drill, but would it work on metal screws? And what kind of drill bit
> >> should I buy? The screws appear to be standard slot-headed.
> >>
> >I've had excellent luck with a set of screw extrators from Sears. They
> >'bite' into the screwhead, and with your drill on reverse (and running
> >very slowly) they will allow you to back out the screw. ...
>
> This doesn't sound like any Sears product I've seen, so I took a quick
> look and it appears to be new since I last bought screw extractors from
> Sears. You seem to be describing the "Drill-Out" type - which I just
> found at their web site. It looks quite interesting, and I wonder if it
> is better than just drilling with a drill bit, and then using one of the
> regular turn-counterclockwise type of extractors.
> --
> --henry schaffer
> hes _AT_ ncsu _DOT_ edu
someone wrote:
> Our local pub closed and sold off some tables. I bought a nice solid
> wood oak one, with two drawers, but each was sealed shut from beneath
> with two large screws (to keep people from putting empty crisp packets
> in).
>
> No problem I thought, but I can't budge the screws at all. I've hit
> them on the head with a hammer, and put in some oil, but nothing works.
>
> It looks like I will have to drill out the screws. Does anybody know
> how I should do this? I have an elderly electric Black & Decker hammer
> drill, but would it work on metal screws? And what kind of drill bit
> should I buy? The screws appear to be standard slot-headed.
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> s.
>
>
Maybe it's like a pregnant woman - some things can't be unscrewed.
;-)
Glen
> Since it is on the bottom, I wouldn't do anything fancy. Just drill
> them out. Of course if you want to get fancy them use a small drill
> and take them out with a broken screw/bolt extractor. Get a set at
> Harbor Freight.
George just send once and wait a while. sometimes it takes a long time
for a post to show here.
Alex
"someone" writes:
> Our local pub closed and sold off some tables. I bought a nice solid
> wood oak one, with two drawers, but each was sealed shut from beneath
> with two large screws (to keep people from putting empty crisp packets
> in).
>
> No problem I thought, but I can't budge the screws at all. I've hit
> them on the head with a hammer, and put in some oil, but nothing works.
>
> It looks like I will have to drill out the screws. Does anybody know
> how I should do this? I have an elderly electric Black & Decker hammer
> drill, but would it work on metal screws? And what kind of drill bit
> should I buy? The screws appear to be standard slot-headed.
I'm confused.
If these are standard pan head sheet metal screws then a pair of vice grips
will do the job, assuming you can grab the head.
If they are flat head, a brace equipped with a hardened screw driver bit is
probably your best bet.
IMHO, this is not the time for power tools.
HTH
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
Greetings,
The URL did not go to what I expected, however, a google search for
the words alden x-out and the exact phrase "damaged screw remover"
produced a lot of good links including these:
http://www.aldn.com/x-outscrews/x-out_screw_remover.htm
http://www.handsontools.com/store/show_product/?product_id=8616
R. Wink wrote:
> Just ran across an add for a "damaged screw remover" Brand name is ALDEN Corp. Number is 800-832-5336 web addy is
> www.alden.com for something call and "X-OUT" extracts 6-14 screws including specialty heads.
> R. Wink
>
> On Tue, 17 Aug 2004 19:33:05 +0100, "someone" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Went to B&Q, looking for a suitable drill bit and met a neighbour
>>looking for paint.
>>
>>He suggested I drill holes *all around* the offending screws, yank them
>>out with pliers, and fill the holes with plastic wood or some such.
>>Sounds simple to me...of course, the finished product may not be a
>>pretty sight.
>>
>>s.
>>
>
>
see if you can pick up an impact screw driver, you put in the correct bit
then rap it with a hammer as it is hit it turns the screw, auto mechanics
usually have one. here's a link to show you what it
is....http://www.brandsonsale.com/impact-screwdriver.html
"someone" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Our local pub closed and sold off some tables. I bought a nice solid
> wood oak one, with two drawers, but each was sealed shut from beneath
> with two large screws (to keep people from putting empty crisp packets
> in).
>
> No problem I thought, but I can't budge the screws at all. I've hit
> them on the head with a hammer, and put in some oil, but nothing works.
>
> It looks like I will have to drill out the screws. Does anybody know
> how I should do this? I have an elderly electric Black & Decker hammer
> drill, but would it work on metal screws? And what kind of drill bit
> should I buy? The screws appear to be standard slot-headed.
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> s.
>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
someone <[email protected]> wrote:
>Our local pub closed and sold off some tables. I bought a nice solid
>wood oak one, with two drawers, but each was sealed shut from beneath
>with two large screws (to keep people from putting empty crisp packets
>in).
>
>No problem I thought, but I can't budge the screws at all. I've hit
>them on the head with a hammer, and put in some oil, but nothing works.
Have you used a good screwdriver? That's one which is ground to have
clean sharp edges, with the large sides close to parallel (fully
parallel is best, but only specialized screwdrivers have that) and fully
fills the slot. Then apply torque - if your hands aren't strong enough,
a wrench on a square shank will do it, or use a screwdriver bit in a
socket wrench.
The screw will either turn, or the screw will break. If it breaks, go
ahead and drill.
>It looks like I will have to drill out the screws. Does anybody know
>how I should do this? I have an elderly electric Black & Decker hammer
>drill, but would it work on metal screws?
Sure. Set it on regular (not on hammer.)
>And what kind of drill bit
>should I buy? The screws appear to be standard slot-headed.
Regular metal drilling bits - maybe labelled "HSS" or "for metal and
wood". Most cost effective to but a small assortment, say a small box
with 1/16" - 1/4". But it may help to use a center punch to make the
initial dent in the screw to help you get started.
--
--henry schaffer
hes _AT_ ncsu _DOT_ edu
In article <[email protected]>,
Chad Bender <[email protected]> wrote:
>> It looks like I will have to drill out the screws. Does anybody know
>> how I should do this? I have an elderly electric Black & Decker hammer
>> drill, but would it work on metal screws? And what kind of drill bit
>> should I buy? The screws appear to be standard slot-headed.
>>
>I've had excellent luck with a set of screw extrators from Sears. They
>'bite' into the screwhead, and with your drill on reverse (and running
>very slowly) they will allow you to back out the screw. ...
This doesn't sound like any Sears product I've seen, so I took a quick
look and it appears to be new since I last bought screw extractors from
Sears. You seem to be describing the "Drill-Out" type - which I just
found at their web site. It looks quite interesting, and I wonder if it
is better than just drilling with a drill bit, and then using one of the
regular turn-counterclockwise type of extractors.
--
--henry schaffer
hes _AT_ ncsu _DOT_ edu
someone <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Our local pub closed and sold off some tables.
>< snip ><<>
Thanks to each and every one of you for your interesting discussion of
my problem. I've printed your postings out and will go away and see if
any of them can help me. Wes Stewart is right, I'm from U.K., but maybe
my local B&Q hardware will be able to help. In any case, there are
specialist tool shops that might be able to help me, now that I know
what I'm looking for.
Thanks again, folks.
s.
Went to B&Q, looking for a suitable drill bit and met a neighbour
looking for paint.
He suggested I drill holes *all around* the offending screws, yank them
out with pliers, and fill the holes with plastic wood or some such.
Sounds simple to me...of course, the finished product may not be a
pretty sight.
s.
There are hole bits on the market that will drill a hole around the
screw. After you remove it plug the hole with a dowel. You then have
body where you can replace the screw. If it is a finished surface you
still have the problem you woled have with filler, but if it is to be
painted you should never notice it.
Good luck!!
omeone" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Went to B&Q, looking for a suitable drill bit and met a neighbour
> looking for paint.
>
> He suggested I drill holes *all around* the offending screws, yank them
> out with pliers, and fill the holes with plastic wood or some such.
> Sounds simple to me...of course, the finished product may not be a
> pretty sight.
>
> s.
> It looks like I will have to drill out the screws. Does anybody know
> how I should do this? I have an elderly electric Black & Decker hammer
> drill, but would it work on metal screws? And what kind of drill bit
> should I buy? The screws appear to be standard slot-headed.
>
>
I've had excellent luck with a set of screw extrators from Sears. They
'bite' into the screwhead, and with your drill on reverse (and running
very slowly) they will allow you to back out the screw. I think I payed
$10-15 for a set of three different sizes. I got them when I was trying
to remove some very stubborn screws from a hardwood doorjam (stupid
landlord) and didn't want to drill out a plug. They look kind of iffy,
but do indeed work. Just be sure to run your drill at a very low speed or
you'll just strip away the entire screw head.
Chad
> This doesn't sound like any Sears product I've seen, so I took a quick
> look and it appears to be new since I last bought screw extractors from
> Sears. You seem to be describing the "Drill-Out" type - which I just
> found at their web site. It looks quite interesting, and I wonder if it
> is better than just drilling with a drill bit, and then using one of the
> regular turn-counterclockwise type of extractors.
I think the product I have is this:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/
product.do?BV_SessionID=@@@@1859582674.1092689133@@@@&BV_
EngineID=cceiadcmfjekddlcehgcemgdffmdflk.0&vertical=TOOL&pid=00952154000
The case that mine came in looks a little different than the one in the
picture, but I think the drill heads are the same. I've found it is
better than trying to 'drill out' the screw with a drill bit, because this
actually allows you to extract the screw intact, with the least chance of
damage to the surrounding wood. The extractor is very similar to a
backwards countersink head. It cuts into the metal screwhead, and
basically creates its own slots. It doesn't always back the screw out all
the way, but at least enough to grab the shaft with a pair of plyers and
twist it out manually.
If you try using these heads, be sure to run your drill as slow as
possible and use lots of downward (ie. into the board) pressure. If you
don't do this, the head will not bite into the screw, and instead will
just scoop out the screw head, essentially cutting a countersink like
divot into the metal. Then you have a bigger problem.
Chad
On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 02:14:10 +0100, "someone" <[email protected]>
wrote:
|Our local pub closed and sold off some tables. I bought a nice solid
|wood oak one, with two drawers, but each was sealed shut from beneath
|with two large screws (to keep people from putting empty crisp packets
|in).
|
|No problem I thought, but I can't budge the screws at all. I've hit
|them on the head with a hammer, and put in some oil, but nothing works.
|
|It looks like I will have to drill out the screws. Does anybody know
|how I should do this? I have an elderly electric Black & Decker hammer
|drill, but would it work on metal screws? And what kind of drill bit
|should I buy? The screws appear to be standard slot-headed.
Guys guys guys.
If you *read* the OP, you should see that this fellow is likely in
England or some English speaking country other than the USA. Telling
him to go to Sears or Harbor Freight probably isn't good advice.
I wouldn't try to drill these out until I had totally messed up the
slots in the heads. Get a *well-fitting* screwdriver and put a lot of
down force on it while turning it with a wrench if necessary. This is
probably a two person job.
If this fails then you turn to the drill. And no, a hammer drill is
inappropriate. In theory, you want a range of drill bits. You will
start off small and drill down the exact center of the screw and then
enlarge the hole with larger sizes until you just remove the metal
without damaging the wood. In my earlier days in an automotive
machine shop, I've drilled out hundreds of broken studs in cast iron
blocks and heads using this technique. But with a smaller, tapered
screw in wood, this isn't going to happen.
You will not find the exact center and the drill bit will wander into
the softer wood. Resigning yourself to this proposition you might as
well just try drilling a hole(s) parallel to the screw shank and hope
that this relieves some tension on the screw that allows it to be
withdrawn. The limiting case will be when you drill a series of holes
around the screw and break it out.
Good luck.
Wes
Look at Woodcraft and Rockler for hollow screw extractors that drill around
the screw, leaving the surrounding wood intact. You can then plug any
unsightly holes with dowel material, or not.
Kevin
--
=====
"someone" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Our local pub closed and sold off some tables. I bought a nice solid
> wood oak one, with two drawers, but each was sealed shut from beneath
> with two large screws (to keep people from putting empty crisp packets
> in).
>
> No problem I thought, but I can't budge the screws at all. I've hit
> them on the head with a hammer, and put in some oil, but nothing works.
>
> It looks like I will have to drill out the screws. Does anybody know
> how I should do this? I have an elderly electric Black & Decker hammer
> drill, but would it work on metal screws? And what kind of drill bit
> should I buy? The screws appear to be standard slot-headed.
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> s.
>
>