Hi all; just wondering what people's opinions on this might be.
I have a two-sided waterstone: 1000/6000. The 1000-grit side feels
smooth as glass to me and makes a beautiful edge. The 6000-grit side
feels as if it has acne or something. There are bumps in the surface
that my chisels bounce over or get stuck on. I'm afraid to hone on
this side of the stone since I'm sure I'll just damage the edges.
I suspect grits have become enbedded in the stone from a sanding
pad that was previously used to flatten it, or perhaps it has become
"rotten" somehow. It was stored in a box that had a bottle of honing
oil leak all over everything. It also spent a lot of time in a zip-lock
bag intended to keep it damp so I'm wondering if that damaged it somehow.
Has anybody else encountered this? I'm going to get a proper flattening
stone and see if I can dress it out, but so far I've had no luck after a
few minutes on a borrowed flattening stone.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
On Nov 16, 7:27=A0pm, [email protected] (Edward A. Falk) wrote:
> RicodJour =A0<[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >flat which speeds up sharpening. =A0I've done the Scary Sharp thing, but
> >I just enjoy using the Japanese wet stones more.
>
> "Scary Sharp"? =A0Wouldn't Japanese wet stones be a way to accomplish
> this?
Scary Sharp (I believe that the term was trademarked) is a sharpening
technique using a range of wet/dry sandpaper laminated to a glass
plate. You can get wet/dry sandpaper in extremely fine grades -
micron paper. After you work your way through the coarser grades up
to the micron paper you end up with a mirror polished sharp edge.
Check out some YouTube videos on it.
R
On Nov 16, 5:18 pm, [email protected] (Edward A. Falk) wrote:
> RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >The oil may be a problem, but that's a separate issue. To flatten the
> >stone you don't need another stone, although some people just use the
> >side of a concrete block. Get some wet/dry sandpaper in assorted
> >grits, probably starting around 100 grit, and attach them to a piece
> >of glass or a 12x12 piece of marble/granite tile with some spray
> >adhesive, and then scrub your stone on that while flushing the sand
> >paper liberally with water (like in a sink while you're doing it).
> >Work your way up to the finer grit papers and end up around 220. Give
> >the stone a test sharpening something, and if there's a substantial
> >improvement you'll know if the side of the stone will be salvageable.
>
> Thanks, I'll try it this weekend.
>
> It came with an abrasive mesh which was supposed to serve this purpose,
> but I see no improvement this way, and I suspect that the mesh is shedding
> grit and making the stone worse.
That's the main reason for the liberal flushing with water while
dressing the stone. I have an old large diamond sharpening plate that
I use to dress my stones. I felt bad using it that way at first, but
the thing refuses to die. After two or three sharpening sessions I
dress the stones. It takes less time to dress them than compared to
waiting until they're starting to get wavy, and it keeps them nice and
flat which speeds up sharpening. I've done the Scary Sharp thing, but
I just enjoy using the Japanese wet stones more.
R
>>http://tinyurl.com/7ktfwm3
>>
>>Simple, low cost, it works.
--------------------------
"Edward A. Falk" wrote:
> Cool. I always wondered if this could be done. Jeez, you could
> buy a lot of sandpaper for the cost of one water stone.
------------------------------
FInd your closest auto paint supply store where you will find all the
wet/dry paper you will ever need.
Lew
On Nov 16, 11:14=A0am, [email protected] (Edward A. Falk) wrote:
> Hi all; just wondering what people's opinions on this might be.
>
> I have a two-sided waterstone: 1000/6000. =A0The 1000-grit side feels
> smooth as glass to me and makes a beautiful edge. =A0The 6000-grit side
> feels as if it has acne or something. =A0There are bumps in the surface
> that my chisels bounce over or get stuck on. =A0I'm afraid to hone on
> this side of the stone since I'm sure I'll just damage the edges.
>
> I suspect grits have become enbedded in the stone from a sanding
> pad that was previously used to flatten it, or perhaps it has become
> "rotten" somehow. =A0It was stored in a box that had a bottle of honing
> oil leak all over everything. =A0It also spent a lot of time in a zip-loc=
k
> bag intended to keep it damp so I'm wondering if that damaged it somehow.
>
> Has anybody else encountered this? =A0I'm going to get a proper flattenin=
g
> stone and see if I can dress it out, but so far I've had no luck after a
> few minutes on a borrowed flattening stone.
The oil may be a problem, but that's a separate issue. To flatten the
stone you don't need another stone, although some people just use the
side of a concrete block. Get some wet/dry sandpaper in assorted
grits, probably starting around 100 grit, and attach them to a piece
of glass or a 12x12 piece of marble/granite tile with some spray
adhesive, and then scrub your stone on that while flushing the sand
paper liberally with water (like in a sink while you're doing it).
Work your way up to the finer grit papers and end up around 220. Give
the stone a test sharpening something, and if there's a substantial
improvement you'll know if the side of the stone will be salvageable.
R
In article <[email protected]>,
RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>The oil may be a problem, but that's a separate issue. To flatten the
>stone you don't need another stone, although some people just use the
>side of a concrete block. Get some wet/dry sandpaper in assorted
>grits, probably starting around 100 grit, and attach them to a piece
>of glass or a 12x12 piece of marble/granite tile with some spray
>adhesive, and then scrub your stone on that while flushing the sand
>paper liberally with water (like in a sink while you're doing it).
>Work your way up to the finer grit papers and end up around 220. Give
>the stone a test sharpening something, and if there's a substantial
>improvement you'll know if the side of the stone will be salvageable.
Thanks, I'll try it this weekend.
It came with an abrasive mesh which was supposed to serve this purpose,
but I see no improvement this way, and I suspect that the mesh is shedding
grit and making the stone worse.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
>flat which speeds up sharpening. I've done the Scary Sharp thing, but
>I just enjoy using the Japanese wet stones more.
"Scary Sharp"? Wouldn't Japanese wet stones be a way to accomplish
this?
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:
>Check out sandpaper sharpening.
>
>http://tinyurl.com/7ktfwm3
>
>Simple, low cost, it works.
Cool. I always wondered if this could be done. Jeez, you could
buy a lot of sandpaper for the cost of one water stone.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Nov 16, 7:27 pm, [email protected] (Edward A. Falk) wrote:
>> RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >flat which speeds up sharpening. I've done the Scary Sharp thing, but
>> >I just enjoy using the Japanese wet stones more.
>>
>> "Scary Sharp"? Wouldn't Japanese wet stones be a way to accomplish
>> this?
>
>Scary Sharp (I believe that the term was trademarked) is a sharpening
>technique using a range of wet/dry sandpaper laminated to a glass
>plate.
Ahhh, so cool.
1995 reference in this newsgroup:
https://groups.google.com/group/rec.woodworking/browse_thread/thread/ac600600f47eea4b/798769fbc0a3e6a3
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
Thanks for everybody's advice. I bit the bullet and bought a proper
flattening stone. I now have three chisels you can shave with; it
makes a world of difference.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/