Again, it is also a big concern for boatbuilders. And you know, what?
My experience shows, no varnish works miracles. Shorter or longer
exposition to elements, as well as wood's shrinkage causes varnish to
crack and peel-off. Water gets trapped underneath and causes
discoloration of wood. Instead I prefer deep impregnation with teak
oil, linseed oil or tung oil. With time the wood weatherizes and gets
what I consider a noble patina. As far as epoxy glue goes, the west
system by the Gudgeon Bros is a very good source of information. Have
fun!
"Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks to those who responded to my glue question, now for the finish
> question. What clear finish would you put a mahogany sign that will be
> out
> in the hot and humid Alabama weather?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Deb
Deb, Why don't you make it out of Epe. Glues great, finish with oil. It
will last longer than most of us.
Dave
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Dr. Deb wrote:
> Teamcasa wrote:
>
> >
> > "Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >> Thanks to those who responded to my glue question, now for the finish
> >> question. What clear finish would you put a mahogany sign that will be
> >> out
> >> in the hot and humid Alabama weather?
> >
> > Deb, Why don't you make it out of Epe. Glues great, finish with oil. It
> > will last longer than most of us.
>
>
> Simple answer is, I am in Alabama. To those of you in the rest of the
> country, that answer may need a bit of "fleshing out." There is a lot we
> do not have here. You have to realize, down here the three main food
> groups are "grits, grease and greens." I live about 30 miles south of
> Montgomery and cannot buy a sheet of 1/2" birch plywood anywhere in the
> city of Montgomery. I can get 1/4 and 3/4 but no 1/2. If I want any
> "exotic" plywood, I have to buy it through a lumber yard, who does not
> stock it, drive across the street and pick it up at a plywood wholesaler.
>
> Now for the mahogany, I have a rather large mahogany importer about 65 miles
> away. Prices are good and the folks are good to deal with.
>
>
> Sooooooooo, it is mahogany by default. I could go with cypress, but it is
> actually harder to get my hands on than the mahogany. Go figure.
Ipe seems to be available at this place in Montgomery:
http://www.aplusfences.com/productinfostart.html
R
Teamcasa
>> Deb, Why don't you make it out of Epe. Glues great, finish with oil. It
>> will last longer than most of us.
>>
>> Dave
>
> "Dr. Deb"
> Simple answer is, I am in Alabama. To those of you in the rest of the
> country, that answer may need a bit of "fleshing out." There is a lot we
> do not have here. You have to realize, down here the three main food
> groups are "grits, grease and greens." I live about 30 miles south of
> Montgomery and cannot buy a sheet of 1/2" birch plywood anywhere in the
> city of Montgomery. I can get 1/4 and 3/4 but no 1/2. If I want any
> "exotic" plywood, I have to buy it through a lumber yard, who does not
> stock it, drive across the street and pick it up at a plywood wholesaler.
>
> Now for the mahogany, I have a rather large mahogany importer about 65
> miles
> away. Prices are good and the folks are good to deal with.
>
> Sooooooooo, it is mahogany by default. I could go with cypress, but it is
> actually harder to get my hands on than the mahogany. Go figure.
>
>
> Deb
Most decking suppliers do carry Ipe. Maybe look for one of those. It
really is a better choice.
Pass the grits!
Dave
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Teamcasa wrote:
> > "Dr. Deb"
> >
> > Sooooooooo, it is mahogany by default. I could go with cypress, but it is
> > actually harder to get my hands on than the mahogany. Go figure.
> >
>
> Most decking suppliers do carry Ipe. Maybe look for one of those. It
> really is a better choice.
I find some resistance to Ipe when I mention it to customers, then I
mention it's similar to mahogany and they go, "Oh, well, then..."
They really do need to come up with a sexier name for it. For a while,
when I first became aware of it, they called it Ironwood which isn't
really a species. Right idea, though.
R
Max Mahanke wrote:
> Similar to Mahogany??? OK, I guess they both came from a tree, but similar?
Okay, well it's not similar in look, or workability, and, well, yeah,
there is little similarity other than the general tonality, but it's
billed as the outdoor mahogany and I fly with that!
I'm serious about the name, though. Ipe sounds like a cat starting to
hack up a furball. Mahogany has a nice ring to it. You'd never see
Diana Ross starring in a movie titled Ipe.
R
On Fri, 10 Mar 2006 14:19:16 -0600, "Dr. Deb" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Simple answer is, I am in Alabama. To those of you in the rest of the
>country, that answer may need a bit of "fleshing out." There is a lot we
>do not have here. You have to realize, down here the three main food
>groups are "grits, grease and greens." I live about 30 miles south of
>Montgomery and cannot buy a sheet of 1/2" birch plywood anywhere in the
>city of Montgomery. I can get 1/4 and 3/4 but no 1/2. If I want any
>"exotic" plywood, I have to buy it through a lumber yard, who does not
>stock it, drive across the street and pick it up at a plywood wholesaler.
>
>Now for the mahogany, I have a rather large mahogany importer about 65 miles
>away. Prices are good and the folks are good to deal with.
This source might be of use to you in the future. Also about 60-odd
miles from you in Chilton County.
<URL:http://www.hardwoodweb.com/distribution/hia.cfm>
Now back to my grits.
--
Chuck Taylor
http://home.hiwaay.net/~taylorc/contact/
I live in eastern PA. I used Sikkens "Cetol" product on a mahogany side
light for my front door. I admit my project faces North West, but after 18
months the finish looks as good as new.
This product has a dye, which for the outside gave a nice deep brown hue. I
think this would look good on your sign.
Now finding this may not be so easy.
Dave Paine.
"Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks to those who responded to my glue question, now for the finish
> question. What clear finish would you put a mahogany sign that will be
> out
> in the hot and humid Alabama weather?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Deb
RicodJour wrote:
> Teamcasa wrote:
>>> "Dr. Deb"
>>>
>>> Sooooooooo, it is mahogany by default. I could go with cypress,
>>> but it is actually harder to get my hands on than the mahogany. Go
>>> figure.
>>>
>>
>> Most decking suppliers do carry Ipe. Maybe look for one of those.
>> It really is a better choice.
>
> I find some resistance to Ipe when I mention it to customers, then I
> mention it's similar to mahogany and they go, "Oh, well, then..."
>
> They really do need to come up with a sexier name for it. For a
> while, when I first became aware of it, they called it Ironwood which
> isn't really a species. Right idea, though.
>
> R
I'd suggest "Tabebuia" but it's hard to say :)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
General Finishes 'Outdoor Oil'. Has UV screen, heat stabilizers, algicide,
and does not build a film so maintenace/repair is simply slop another
generous coat on.
"Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks to those who responded to my glue question, now for the finish
> question. What clear finish would you put a mahogany sign that will be
out
> in the hot and humid Alabama weather?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Deb
Teamcasa wrote:
>
> "Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Thanks to those who responded to my glue question, now for the finish
>> question. What clear finish would you put a mahogany sign that will be
>> out
>> in the hot and humid Alabama weather?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>> Deb
>
> Deb, Why don't you make it out of Epe. Glues great, finish with oil. It
> will last longer than most of us.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> http://www.usenet.com
Simple answer is, I am in Alabama. To those of you in the rest of the
country, that answer may need a bit of "fleshing out." There is a lot we
do not have here. You have to realize, down here the three main food
groups are "grits, grease and greens." I live about 30 miles south of
Montgomery and cannot buy a sheet of 1/2" birch plywood anywhere in the
city of Montgomery. I can get 1/4 and 3/4 but no 1/2. If I want any
"exotic" plywood, I have to buy it through a lumber yard, who does not
stock it, drive across the street and pick it up at a plywood wholesaler.
Now for the mahogany, I have a rather large mahogany importer about 65 miles
away. Prices are good and the folks are good to deal with.
Sooooooooo, it is mahogany by default. I could go with cypress, but it is
actually harder to get my hands on than the mahogany. Go figure.
Deb
Deb,
Read the 'answers' to date . . . only one seemed to address the question.
'The' answer isn't simple. Or rather it is, but takes time and a small
amount of effort. And MY preference IS Mahogany.
First, two coats of unthickened epoxy. This will truly seal the wood from
the environment. Now apply about 6 coats of a UV Varnish. IF the piece won't
be 'handled' a quality 'long-oil' Spar varnish is what you want. If it will
be handled or touched - then use a 'short-oil' UV additive varnish. With
either, use the following application schedule; disposable foam brushes do
nicely.
1} 1st coat - thinned about 25-50 percent with mineral spirits.
2} scuff sand with 100 grit & wipe clean with cloth moistened with
mineral spirits
3} 2nd coat - thinned 10-25 percent
4} scuff sand with 220 grit wrapped around a flat sanding pad or wood
block - make sure all is even - wipe with MS
5} 3rd coat - 'straight' varnish - thin coat, well brushed out
6} gently & evenly scuff sand with 320 grit - wipe with MS
7} 4th coat - even coat of varnish - 'flowed' on and 'tipped' off
8} gently & evenly sand with 400 grit - wipe with MS
9} 5th coat - flow on and tip off
10} gently & evenly sand with 600 grit - wipe off with MS
11} At this point, either apply a 6th coat, or put on two applications
of UV resistant automotive wax - well buffing in between.
Because you are allowing 24-hours curing time between coats, this approach
takes a bit of time. The actual application only takes about 15 minutes -
the rest is PATIENCE. However, once you are done . . . your DONE. Depending
on the environment, you may need to re-wax once or twice a year. On a boat,
where you don't apply the wax, it is typical to 'refresh' the top layer of
varnish every one to two years . . . 'As Needed'{scuff sand & apply a thin
coat}.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
{PS - be glad to send you a couple of photos}
"Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Teamcasa wrote:
>
> >
> > "Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >> Thanks to those who responded to my glue question, now for the finish
> >> question. What clear finish would you put a mahogany sign that will be
> >> out
> >> in the hot and humid Alabama weather?
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >>
SNIP
Similar to Mahogany??? OK, I guess they both came from a tree, but similar?
"RicodJour" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Teamcasa wrote:
> > > "Dr. Deb"
> > >
> > > Sooooooooo, it is mahogany by default. I could go with cypress, but
it is
> > > actually harder to get my hands on than the mahogany. Go figure.
> > >
> >
> > Most decking suppliers do carry Ipe. Maybe look for one of those. It
> > really is a better choice.
>
> I find some resistance to Ipe when I mention it to customers, then I
> mention it's similar to mahogany and they go, "Oh, well, then..."
>
> They really do need to come up with a sexier name for it. For a while,
> when I first became aware of it, they called it Ironwood which isn't
> really a species. Right idea, though.
>
> R
>
Dr. Deb wrote:
> Thanks to those who responded to my glue question, now for the finish
> question. What clear finish would you put a mahogany sign that will
> be out in the hot and humid Alabama weather?
Any will need periodic re-doing. The hardest to re-do is polyurethane
varnish; the easiest is a penetrating oil. The longest lasting is
probably a good marine varnish (not poly and not spar) with lots of UV
inhibitors. It should last 1-2 years if it receives sun most of the
day, longer if not. It isn't cheap, just paid $25 for a quart + $10
S/H. It should be re-done *before* it gets flaky/yellowed/chipped.
I'd use oil.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico