I would like to get a good rip blade for my table saw but I'm not
sure what to look for. I know what makes a good crosscut blade
but I don't know the details of how rip blades work with wood
grain.
Can someone more versed in the wood lore than I give me some
pointers? How many teeth? Hook? Kerf? etc.
Thanks in advance,
Dave.
You are looking more for the quality of the blade than the particular tooth
count.
A good 40 tooth general blade may cut better than a ho hum 24 tooth blade
rip blade. A good 24 tooth rip blade may cut better than a ho hum 40 tooth
general blade.
That said, comparing strictly rip blades to rip blades, 24 teeth for ripping
typical stock will work fine. If ripping thicker stock, 2" and thicker a
blade with fewer teeth may do a better job.
"Dave Rathnow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:f59Zc.83294$X12.57673@edtnps84...
> Well, there's lots of good information but one question: do you want lots
> of
> teeth or few teeth for ripping? Most people use either a 24 tooth or 40
> tooth
> blade. I'm looking for a good smooth finish where little sanding or
> planing
> would
> be required.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave.
>
>
> "Dave Rathnow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:sPGYc.55167$jZ5.24343@clgrps13...
>>
>> I would like to get a good rip blade for my table saw but I'm not
>> sure what to look for. I know what makes a good crosscut blade
>> but I don't know the details of how rip blades work with wood
>> grain.
>>
>> Can someone more versed in the wood lore than I give me some
>> pointers? How many teeth? Hook? Kerf? etc.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Dave.
>>
>>
>
>
I have the WWII, but when I have some heavy ripping to do, I pit a very nice
Amana blade that cost $50 on the saw. It requires much less horsepower. If
it's just an occasional rip cut being made< I leave the Forrest on.
It is a 20 tooth industrial quality blade. The model number is RB1020.
"Robert Galloway" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hate to be thought a shill for Forrest but I love the WWII and as time
> goes on, I remove it only to install the dado or molding head. (Haven't
> put on the rip blade in a long time.) I have a RAS and I'm trying to
> figure out whether to get the WWI which mentions the RAS in it's promo
> or another WWII. Anybody have opinions on this
>
> Leon wrote:
> > Many things factor in and it is not always the same thing that makes a
blade
> > a good rip blade.
> > I have a 30 tooth glue line rip blade. My Forrest WWII 40 tooth blade
> > regular kerf blade does a superior job of ripping over the rip blade. I
use
> > it all the time unless I am cutting questionable material.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
"Dave Rathnow" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<sPGYc.55167$jZ5.24343@clgrps13>...
> I would like to get a good rip blade for my table saw but I'm not
> sure what to look for. I know what makes a good crosscut blade
> but I don't know the details of how rip blades work with wood
> grain.
>
> Can someone more versed in the wood lore than I give me some
> pointers? How many teeth? Hook? Kerf? etc.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Dave.
Depends. On what "good" means to you- likely in terms of speed and
surface-finish, in how much of what wood. IMHO, the fewer teeth, the
better. I've a Freud 10" 24t thin-kerf that breezes through 3" of
fir/spruce with ready-to-glue face. Really aggressive tooth angles,
alternate top-bevel.
Be prepared to spend a few bucks for a primo rip-blade, likely $40 or
more.
HTH,
John
"Dave Rathnow" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<sPGYc.55167$jZ5.24343@clgrps13>...
> I would like to get a good rip blade for my table saw but I'm not
> sure what to look for. I know what makes a good crosscut blade
> but I don't know the details of how rip blades work with wood
> grain.
>
> Can someone more versed in the wood lore than I give me some
> pointers? How many teeth? Hook? Kerf? etc.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Dave.
Hi,
I use a Forrest Woodworker II blade, which is a 40 tooth combination
blade. It does a great job of ripping and crosscutting, and may be
the only blade you'll need for most hardwoods. Likely others here
will echo this comment, since it's a popular blade on this NG.
For a rip-specific blade, I've heard good things about Freud's 10" x
30 rip blade but have never tried one.
Cheers,
Nate
"Robert Galloway" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hate to be thought a shill for Forrest but I love the WWII and as time
> goes on, I remove it only to install the dado or molding head. (Haven't
> put on the rip blade in a long time.) I have a RAS and I'm trying to
> figure out whether to get the WWI which mentions the RAS in it's promo or
> another WWII. Anybody have opinions on this
You absolutely want to use the WWI for the RAS. Apparently this blade has
the right configuration for a TS.
I've got the same two blades. While I love my Forrest WWII for most
cuts, when it comes time to rip thicker material (2"+), the Amana is the
one I choose. The feed rate is much faster and the feed pressure is
about half that of the WWII.
Cheers,
-- Ian
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
> I have the WWII, but when I have some heavy ripping to do, I pit a very nice
> Amana blade that cost $50 on the saw. It requires much less horsepower. If
> it's just an occasional rip cut being made< I leave the Forrest on.
> It is a 20 tooth industrial quality blade. The model number is RB1020.
>
"Dave Rathnow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I'm looking for a good smooth finish where little sanding or planing
> would
> be required.
I've had good results using a Freud Diablo crosscut blade for that. Hey, it
was the only blade I had and it did a much better job than the one that came
with the saw. That was with 2 1/2" oak too!
Well, there's lots of good information but one question: do you want lots of
teeth or few teeth for ripping? Most people use either a 24 tooth or 40
tooth
blade. I'm looking for a good smooth finish where little sanding or planing
would
be required.
Thanks,
Dave.
"Dave Rathnow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:sPGYc.55167$jZ5.24343@clgrps13...
>
> I would like to get a good rip blade for my table saw but I'm not
> sure what to look for. I know what makes a good crosscut blade
> but I don't know the details of how rip blades work with wood
> grain.
>
> Can someone more versed in the wood lore than I give me some
> pointers? How many teeth? Hook? Kerf? etc.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Dave.
>
>
Hate to be thought a shill for Forrest but I love the WWII and as time
goes on, I remove it only to install the dado or molding head. (Haven't
put on the rip blade in a long time.) I have a RAS and I'm trying to
figure out whether to get the WWI which mentions the RAS in it's promo
or another WWII. Anybody have opinions on this
Leon wrote:
> Many things factor in and it is not always the same thing that makes a blade
> a good rip blade.
> I have a 30 tooth glue line rip blade. My Forrest WWII 40 tooth blade
> regular kerf blade does a superior job of ripping over the rip blade. I use
> it all the time unless I am cutting questionable material.
>
>
>
>
>