I am looking for a nailer that I will use it for nothing but
toe-nailing two pieces of woods together (as a way to clamp them
together). I already have a set of nailers; but somehow I cannot use
them for toe-nailing (the nail will stick out by 1/8" or more).
Therefore, I need a nailer that can do toe-nailing.
Because it is a single purpose tool that I probably won't use often, I
want it to cost very little. I am looking at the nailers from Harbor
Freight, and they have some very low cost nailers (as low as $20). But
I have no idea which one can do toe-nailer properly. Can someone tell
me where I can find a low cost nailer that can do toe-nailer?
Thanks in advance for any suggestion.
Jay Chan
> Take one of the nailers that you already own. Adjust the depth-of-drive
> to countersink the nail. Use same for toe-nailing. Cost you just a bit
> of time and testing on some scrap lumber.
This is odd. I have adjusted the depth of drive of my existing nailer
to the max and I still cannot countersink the nail. The nailer is
Senco that is supposed to be good.
Jay Chan
> >> Take one of the nailers that you already own. Adjust the depth-of-drive
> >> to countersink the nail. Use same for toe-nailing. Cost you just a bit
> >> of time and testing on some scrap lumber.
> >
> > This is odd. I have adjusted the depth of drive of my existing nailer
> > to the max and I still cannot countersink the nail. The nailer is
> > Senco that is supposed to be good.
>
> On the Senco I used to have, the adjustment is done by changing the
> length of the ram. Assuming you have enough pressure, that's all that's
> left. It's a very simple mechanism.
OK. I will try my Senco nailer one more time. But I am not hopeful.
I cannot rule out the possibility that I might have read the
instruction wrong. When I just bought the nailer, I was quite confused
by the instruction manual when I tried to load nails into the nailer.
I would not be surprised that I might have misunderstood the
instruction on adjusting depth-of-drive. On the other hand, the
mechanism in adjusting the depth-of-drive in that nailer is seemingly
quite simple: just turning a hand screw. How would I get this wrong
anyway? I don't know.
I am leaning toward the belief that the safety mechanism may have keep
the nailer head too far from the surface of the wood and may prevent
the nailer from countersinking the nail. That is the reason why I want
to know if another nailer may help.
Jay Chan
> (I wrote, but you deleted the attribution for, )
Am I missing something? I thought I have put the original quote on the
message.
> >> On the Senco I used to have, the adjustment is done by changing the
> >> length of the ram. Assuming you have enough pressure, that's all that's
> >> left. It's a very simple mechanism.
>
> > OK. I will try my Senco nailer one more time. But I am not hopeful.
>
> You have the owners manual, right? If not, it's on Senco's website in
> PDF format.
Yes, I have the owner manual. But it is a one manual for multiple
models kind of thing, and it is not clear.
> > I am leaning toward the belief that the safety mechanism may have keep
> > the nailer head too far from the surface of the wood and may prevent
> > the nailer from countersinking the nail. That is the reason why I want
> > to know if another nailer may help.
>
> See what Senco's website has to say before you spend more money. Or,
> call their support folks. It's a quality product, they'll take care of
> you and help you if you can be helped.
This is a good idea. I should contact their tech support to see if
they can help me with this.
Thanks.
Jay Chan
If it is not the adjustment of your Senco. Just buy one of those
Bostich staple/nail guns. Basically a more expensive staple gun. Their
at Lowes and Home Depot. Just be warned if you go to Home Depot and
hear someone over a bull horn say "PUT DOWN THE PENCIL AND BACK AWAY"
just run and don't go back.
Roy
[email protected] wrote:
> I have to increase PSI 10-15lbs to toe nail with my Porter Cable
> framer. I agree with the consensus that the Senco should be able to be
> tweaked into proper performance. Good Luck!
Unfortunately, the small air compression that comes with the Senco brad
nailer cannot go over 120 PSI. Even I max out the outlet air pressure,
I still can only get up to 120 PSI. I am wondering if the restriction
on air pressure may be the reason why I cannot toe-nail properly.
What's the PSI that you need to set in order to toe-nail properly with
a brad nailer (if you have done something like that)? Thanks.
Jay Chan
Dave Hinz wrote:
> On 7 Dec 2005 11:08:04 -0800, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> (I wrote, but you deleted the attribution for, )
> >
> > Am I missing something? I thought I have put the original quote on the
> > message.
>
> Yeah, but just like on this one, the "Dave Hinz wrote..." line isn't
> there. It just makes things easier to follow if you leave those in.
Now I see. I didn't realize the significance of leaving the original
message sender name in the message.
Jay Chan
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On 7 Dec 2005 09:57:40 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
> [email protected] quickly quoth:
>
> >> Take one of the nailers that you already own. Adjust the depth-of-drive
> >> to countersink the nail. Use same for toe-nailing. Cost you just a bit
> >> of time and testing on some scrap lumber.
> >
> >This is odd. I have adjusted the depth of drive of my existing nailer
> >to the max and I still cannot countersink the nail. The nailer is
> >Senco that is supposed to be good.
>
> Possible solutions:
>
> 1) Use a shorter nail
> or
> 2) Adjust the air pressure up
> or
> 3) Clean and re-oil the thing so it works properly.
> or
> 4) All of the above.
I am currently working on the assumption that the air compressor is not
up to the task. The small air compression that comes with the Senco
brad nailer automatically cut off at 120 PSI and cannot be adjusted
upward. I am wondering if a higher PSI would make a difference. May I
ask you what is the PSI of the regulator in your air compressor when
you successfully toe nail using a brad nail?
> Even my $15 Harbor Fright nailer and $24 HFT stapler
> will sink a staple or brad head beneath the surface.
Yes, my Senco is also able to counter sink a nail -- when it is _not_
toe-nailing.
Jay Chan
ROYNEU wrote:
> If it is not the adjustment of your Senco. Just buy one of those
> Bostich staple/nail guns. Basically a more expensive staple gun. Their
> at Lowes and Home Depot. Just be warned if you go to Home Depot and
> hear someone over a bull horn say "PUT DOWN THE PENCIL AND BACK AWAY"
> just run and don't go back.
?? What does this mean ??
Jay Chan
It is a Senco FinishPro-18 brad nailer that comes with a small air
compressor (1 hp, 1 gal).
I have just tried toe-nailing. This time I press the nailing head
firmly against the wood at 45-degree before I hit the trigger. But the
result is the same. The nail is sticking out by 1/16" (on soft wood
like pine) (or 1/8" in dense wood like MDF). I would much rather that
it was counter-sunk or flush with the surface.
And I have adjusted the depth-of-drive to the maximum depth.
I have the feeling that the air compressor may not be up to the task.
It automatically cuts off at 120 PSI and there is nothing I can do to
adjust it upward. What's the PSI that your air compressor is running
at when you toe-nail a short brad nail into soft wood like pine or
dense wood?
Thanks for any follow-up info in advance.
Jay Chan
Dave Jackson wrote:
> Exactly what type of nailer (framing, finishing or brad) are you using? I
> own nearly the full line of Senco nailers and have no problems with
> toenailing, however it does require holding the gun FIRMLY against the board
> your nailing into. If the gun is not held firmly enough, often the gun will
> bounce when it is fired causing the nail to stick out. Also, the "angle of
> attack" may influence how the nail is set. 45-60 degrees or so seems to wok
> best with my guns. --dave
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >I am looking for a nailer that I will use it for nothing but
> > toe-nailing two pieces of woods together (as a way to clamp them
> > together). I already have a set of nailers; but somehow I cannot use
> > them for toe-nailing (the nail will stick out by 1/8" or more).
> > Therefore, I need a nailer that can do toe-nailing.
> >
> > Because it is a single purpose tool that I probably won't use often, I
> > want it to cost very little. I am looking at the nailers from Harbor
> > Freight, and they have some very low cost nailers (as low as $20). But
> > I have no idea which one can do toe-nailer properly. Can someone tell
> > me where I can find a low cost nailer that can do toe-nailer?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for any suggestion.
> >
> > Jay Chan
[email protected] wrote:
> I am looking for a nailer that I will use it for nothing but
> toe-nailing two pieces of woods together (as a way to clamp them
> together). I already have a set of nailers; but somehow I cannot use
> them for toe-nailing (the nail will stick out by 1/8" or more).
> Therefore, I need a nailer that can do toe-nailing.
>
> Because it is a single purpose tool that I probably won't use often, I
> want it to cost very little. I am looking at the nailers from Harbor
> Freight, and they have some very low cost nailers (as low as $20). But
> I have no idea which one can do toe-nailer properly. Can someone tell
> me where I can find a low cost nailer that can do toe-nailer?
>
> Thanks in advance for any suggestion.
>
> Jay Chan
I'm sure this isn't what you want to hear but the nailer I use is
cheap, non-adjustable and always leaves the brads at least 1/4" proud
under any nailing situation. My quick and easy remedy was a punch and
a tack hammer. Instant countersinking!
FoggyTown
120 PSI is too much for a brad gun. I generally use around 100-110 PSI
for toe nailing studs with a framer gun. With my Bostich 16 ga I
usually have the problem of having the nail go too deep at around 90
PSI in softwoods/ply/mdf. Harder wood WILL add significant resistance
though. Last thoughts are: 1. Contact Senco/return gun if under
warranty. Might have bum gun. 2. You may have better success with a
16 ga gun. I think the 18 ga guns are great for intricate stuff, but
my 16 ga is the workhorse. My $.02 Report back with yer results!
ROYNEU wrote:
> It's poking fun at Home Depot for the way they handle theft. Maybe you
> didn't hear about the guy who put a pencil in his pocket by mistake.
> Was run in for stealing, etc. There was an extensive thread here about
> it, too.
Honestly, I have never heard anything like that while I am in Home
Depot, and I visit Home Depot very frequent -- and not always in the
Tools Department :)
Jay Chan
Thanks for everyone who has replied.
Seem like the small air compressor is not the one that causes me
trouble when I try to toe-nail because 120 PSI should be enough.
I don't remember what size nails that I used. I believe it is one size
above the shortest one. I will check it out when I get back home, and
I will try toe-nailing with the shortest nails; unfortunately, I have a
feeling that this is not practical because the shortest nails will not
have enough holding power to hold the horizontal and vertical pieces
together.
I probably want to focus back on the nailer itself, and I will check if
the telfon tape is blocking the air flow or not. The nailer is very
clean because I have not had enough chance to use it a lot. Therefore,
I doubt that there will be something blocking the air flow.
Let me ask everyone who has Senco FinishPro-18 a question:
Let's say you put 1.25" 18-gauge nails in the nailer, and adjust the
depth-of-drive to as deep as possible. And then you shoot one nail onto
a piece of softwood (pine), such as a 2x4. How deep is the nail below
the surface of the wood? When I tried this last night, the nail is
something like 1/16" below the surface. I want to hear how other
people experience are. Thanks.
Jay Chan
No luck with using the shortest nails. I tried toe-nailing using 1"
nails on a 2x4. The result was exactly the same as when I use 1.25"
nails, meaning that the nail head sticks out by 1/16".
By the way, the nails are Senco nails. I suppose their nails must work
well with their own nailers.
Nailing the same 1" nails straight on a piece of wood can counter-sink
the nail down to 1/8". Seem like there is something wrong with
shooting a nail at an angle that cause the nail not be able to
penetrate into the wood completely.
Seem like the suggestion of using pocket screws is becoming more and
more like a much better idea than trying to toe nail. Or I need to
make some 90-degree brace-angles and use it with clamps to align two
pieces of woods together. Anyway, the idea of toe nailing seems to be
fading away fast -- at least for me.
Jay Chan
[email protected] wrote:
> Thanks for everyone who has replied.
>
> Seem like the small air compressor is not the one that causes me
> trouble when I try to toe-nail because 120 PSI should be enough.
>
> I don't remember what size nails that I used. I believe it is one size
> above the shortest one. I will check it out when I get back home, and
> I will try toe-nailing with the shortest nails; unfortunately, I have a
> feeling that this is not practical because the shortest nails will not
> have enough holding power to hold the horizontal and vertical pieces
> together.
>
> I probably want to focus back on the nailer itself, and I will check if
> the telfon tape is blocking the air flow or not. The nailer is very
> clean because I have not had enough chance to use it a lot. Therefore,
> I doubt that there will be something blocking the air flow.
>
> Let me ask everyone who has Senco FinishPro-18 a question:
> Let's say you put 1.25" 18-gauge nails in the nailer, and adjust the
> depth-of-drive to as deep as possible. And then you shoot one nail onto
> a piece of softwood (pine), such as a 2x4. How deep is the nail below
> the surface of the wood? When I tried this last night, the nail is
> something like 1/16" below the surface. I want to hear how other
> people experience are. Thanks.
>
> Jay Chan
[email protected] wrote:
> It is a Senco FinishPro-18 brad nailer that comes with a small air
> compressor (1 hp, 1 gal).
>
> I have just tried toe-nailing. This time I press the nailing head
> firmly against the wood at 45-degree before I hit the trigger. But the
> result is the same. The nail is sticking out by 1/16" (on soft wood
> like pine) (or 1/8" in dense wood like MDF). I would much rather that
> it was counter-sunk or flush with the surface.
>
> And I have adjusted the depth-of-drive to the maximum depth.
>
> I have the feeling that the air compressor may not be up to the task.
> It automatically cuts off at 120 PSI and there is nothing I can do to
> adjust it upward. What's the PSI that your air compressor is running
> at when you toe-nail a short brad nail into soft wood like pine or
> dense wood?
>
> Thanks for any follow-up info in advance.
>
> Jay Chan
I was recently nailing quarter round at an angle into subflooring
below. The wood was 3/4 birch which was a hard wood, using campbell
hausfield 2 inch 18 ga nailer and a harbor freight 2 1/2" 16 ga finish
nailer, using a tankless craftsman compressor at 100 psi and had no
trouble at all with nailing it with proper countersink. Sounds like
something is wrong with your setup. Could you borrow a compressor or
go back to the store from which you bought it and ask them. I often
have trouble with too much depth not too little.
MBR
gadgetman wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
> > It is a Senco FinishPro-18 brad nailer that comes with a small air
> > compressor (1 hp, 1 gal).
> >
> > I have just tried toe-nailing. This time I press the nailing head
> > firmly against the wood at 45-degree before I hit the trigger. But the
> > result is the same. The nail is sticking out by 1/16" (on soft wood
> > like pine) (or 1/8" in dense wood like MDF). I would much rather that
> > it was counter-sunk or flush with the surface.
> >
> > And I have adjusted the depth-of-drive to the maximum depth.
> >
> > I have the feeling that the air compressor may not be up to the task.
> > It automatically cuts off at 120 PSI and there is nothing I can do to
> > adjust it upward. What's the PSI that your air compressor is running
> > at when you toe-nail a short brad nail into soft wood like pine or
> > dense wood?
> >
> > Thanks for any follow-up info in advance.
> >
> > Jay Chan
>
> I was recently nailing quarter round at an angle into subflooring
> below. The wood was 3/4 birch which was a hard wood, using campbell
> hausfield 2 inch 18 ga nailer and a harbor freight 2 1/2" 16 ga finish
> nailer, using a tankless craftsman compressor at 100 psi and had no
> trouble at all with nailing it with proper countersink. Sounds like
> something is wrong with your setup. Could you borrow a compressor or
> go back to the store from which you bought it and ask them. I often
> have trouble with too much depth not too little.
>
> MBR
But nailing a quarter round is different from toe-nailing. Yes, I have
nailed quarter round before in a finishing-a-basement project; I know
how this is being done. When I nail a quarter round, I always can
maintain the contact between the nailer head and the wood surface. But
this is not so with toe-nailing. When I toe-nailing, the angle of
toe-nailing and the nailer head assembly prevent me from having a good
contact. There is always a gap. And I believe this is the problem.
Jay Chan
Swingman wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> > Seem like there is something wrong with
> > shooting a nail at an angle that cause the nail not be able to
> > penetrate into the wood completely.
>
> Dollars to donuts that "something", with your particular tool, is the angle
> of the head of the nail gun when toenailing.
>
> IOW, not being in full contact with the surface of the material being
> nailed, the extra distance the brad must travel is just enough to keep it
> from penetrating to the desired depth.
>
> IME, most _brad_ nailers will not toe-nail consistently. Neither of mine
> will (Delta and HF), I would suspect that with those that will, it is more
> or less luck of the draw.
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 11/06/05
I think you are right. The nailer head cannot maintain a good contact
with the wood surface when I use the brad nailer for toe-nailing. And
this probably creates the problem.
If brad nailers are not appropriate for toe-nailing, sound like I
should try my finish-nailer for toe-nailing to see if it works better.
I didn't think of using finish-nailer for toe-nailing because finish
nails may be too long for toe-nailing. I may try the shortest finish
nails to see if they work better than the brad nails. If finish nailer
doesn't work well either, I will have to use pocket screws.
Jay Chan
You are quite right. I tried toe-nailing with a Senco finish nailer
(15-gauge), and the result is exactly the same as when I used a Senco
brad nailer (18 gauge). This problem must have to do with the gap
between the nailer head and the wood surface when I need to tilt the
nailer for toe-nailing. Oh well... This means I need to find a cheap
nailer that I can remove the safety assembly from the nailer head to
reduce the gap, and use it just for toe-nailing. And this brings me
back to my original question of this thread: Where can I get a cheap
nailer that can do well with toe-nailing?
Jay Chan
CW wrote:
> The finish nailer is unlikely to be any different.
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Swingman wrote:
> > > <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > >
> > > > Seem like there is something wrong with
> > > > shooting a nail at an angle that cause the nail not be able to
> > > > penetrate into the wood completely.
> > >
> > > Dollars to donuts that "something", with your particular tool, is the
> angle
> > > of the head of the nail gun when toenailing.
> > >
> > > IOW, not being in full contact with the surface of the material being
> > > nailed, the extra distance the brad must travel is just enough to keep
> it
> > > from penetrating to the desired depth.
> > >
> > > IME, most _brad_ nailers will not toe-nail consistently. Neither of mine
> > > will (Delta and HF), I would suspect that with those that will, it is
> more
> > > or less luck of the draw.
> > >
> > > --
> > > www.e-woodshop.net
> > > Last update: 11/06/05
> >
> > I think you are right. The nailer head cannot maintain a good contact
> > with the wood surface when I use the brad nailer for toe-nailing. And
> > this probably creates the problem.
> >
> > If brad nailers are not appropriate for toe-nailing, sound like I
> > should try my finish-nailer for toe-nailing to see if it works better.
> > I didn't think of using finish-nailer for toe-nailing because finish
> > nails may be too long for toe-nailing. I may try the shortest finish
> > nails to see if they work better than the brad nails. If finish nailer
> > doesn't work well either, I will have to use pocket screws.
> >
> > Jay Chan
> >
I have ordered and received a finishing nailer from Harbor Freight. It
is called "16 GAUGE HEAVY DUTY BRAD TACKER":
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=31317
And yes, it works. I can use it to toe-nail two pieces of wood
together, and the nail head is slightly below the surface of the wood.
The depth of the counter-sink of the nail head depending on the angle
of where I position the nailer head against the wood. And it is not a
piece of finely polished equipment, it is quite rough. But at least it
works, and it is cheap.
The only reservation is that it doesn't have anyway to adjust the depth
of the counter-sink, other than by changing the angle of the nailer
head against the wood as mentioned above. This works for toe nailing
on two pieces of soft woods (4x4). I don't know if it will still work
OK if I toe-nail two pieces of hard woods. We will see.
Jay Chan
[email protected] wrote:
> You are quite right. I tried toe-nailing with a Senco finish nailer
> (15-gauge), and the result is exactly the same as when I used a Senco
> brad nailer (18 gauge). This problem must have to do with the gap
> between the nailer head and the wood surface when I need to tilt the
> nailer for toe-nailing. Oh well... This means I need to find a cheap
> nailer that I can remove the safety assembly from the nailer head to
> reduce the gap, and use it just for toe-nailing. And this brings me
> back to my original question of this thread: Where can I get a cheap
> nailer that can do well with toe-nailing?
>
> Jay Chan
>
> CW wrote:
> > The finish nailer is unlikely to be any different.
> > <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Swingman wrote:
> > > > <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > >
> > > > > Seem like there is something wrong with
> > > > > shooting a nail at an angle that cause the nail not be able to
> > > > > penetrate into the wood completely.
> > > >
> > > > Dollars to donuts that "something", with your particular tool, is the
> > angle
> > > > of the head of the nail gun when toenailing.
> > > >
> > > > IOW, not being in full contact with the surface of the material being
> > > > nailed, the extra distance the brad must travel is just enough to keep
> > it
> > > > from penetrating to the desired depth.
> > > >
> > > > IME, most _brad_ nailers will not toe-nail consistently. Neither of mine
> > > > will (Delta and HF), I would suspect that with those that will, it is
> > more
> > > > or less luck of the draw.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > www.e-woodshop.net
> > > > Last update: 11/06/05
> > >
> > > I think you are right. The nailer head cannot maintain a good contact
> > > with the wood surface when I use the brad nailer for toe-nailing. And
> > > this probably creates the problem.
> > >
> > > If brad nailers are not appropriate for toe-nailing, sound like I
> > > should try my finish-nailer for toe-nailing to see if it works better.
> > > I didn't think of using finish-nailer for toe-nailing because finish
> > > nails may be too long for toe-nailing. I may try the shortest finish
> > > nails to see if they work better than the brad nails. If finish nailer
> > > doesn't work well either, I will have to use pocket screws.
> > >
> > > Jay Chan
> > >
On 7 Dec 2005 19:40:57 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
[email protected] quickly quoth:
>[email protected] wrote:
>> I have to increase PSI 10-15lbs to toe nail with my Porter Cable
>> framer. I agree with the consensus that the Senco should be able to be
>> tweaked into proper performance. Good Luck!
>
>Unfortunately, the small air compression that comes with the Senco brad
>nailer cannot go over 120 PSI. Even I max out the outlet air pressure,
>I still can only get up to 120 PSI. I am wondering if the restriction
>on air pressure may be the reason why I cannot toe-nail properly.
>What's the PSI that you need to set in order to toe-nail properly with
>a brad nailer (if you have done something like that)? Thanks.
Jay, what wood are length of brad are you shooting into/with?
If it's not Lignum Vitae, perhaps your Senco is toast or you have an
air feed problem.
=========================================================
The Titanic. The Hindenburg. + http://www.diversify.com
The Clintons. + Website & Graphic Design
=========================================================
On 7 Dec 2005 09:57:40 -0800, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Take one of the nailers that you already own. Adjust the depth-of-drive
>> to countersink the nail. Use same for toe-nailing. Cost you just a bit
>> of time and testing on some scrap lumber.
>
> This is odd. I have adjusted the depth of drive of my existing nailer
> to the max and I still cannot countersink the nail. The nailer is
> Senco that is supposed to be good.
On the Senco I used to have, the adjustment is done by changing the
length of the ram. Assuming you have enough pressure, that's all that's
left. It's a very simple mechanism.
On 7 Dec 2005 10:50:36 -0800, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
(I wrote, but you deleted the attribution for, )
>> On the Senco I used to have, the adjustment is done by changing the
>> length of the ram. Assuming you have enough pressure, that's all that's
>> left. It's a very simple mechanism.
> OK. I will try my Senco nailer one more time. But I am not hopeful.
You have the owners manual, right? If not, it's on Senco's website in
PDF format.
> I cannot rule out the possibility that I might have read the
> instruction wrong. When I just bought the nailer, I was quite confused
> by the instruction manual when I tried to load nails into the nailer.
> I would not be surprised that I might have misunderstood the
> instruction on adjusting depth-of-drive. On the other hand, the
> mechanism in adjusting the depth-of-drive in that nailer is seemingly
> quite simple: just turning a hand screw. How would I get this wrong
> anyway? I don't know.
Dunno, if you gave the model number I missed it.
> I am leaning toward the belief that the safety mechanism may have keep
> the nailer head too far from the surface of the wood and may prevent
> the nailer from countersinking the nail. That is the reason why I want
> to know if another nailer may help.
See what Senco's website has to say before you spend more money. Or,
call their support folks. It's a quality product, they'll take care of
you and help you if you can be helped.
Dave Hinz
On 7 Dec 2005 11:08:04 -0800, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
>> (I wrote, but you deleted the attribution for, )
>
> Am I missing something? I thought I have put the original quote on the
> message.
Yeah, but just like on this one, the "Dave Hinz wrote..." line isn't
there. It just makes things easier to follow if you leave those in.
>> You have the owners manual, right? If not, it's on Senco's website in
>> PDF format.
> Yes, I have the owner manual. But it is a one manual for multiple
> models kind of thing, and it is not clear.
See if there's a newer one online. Keep in mind there's also parts
manuals which are different than user manuals for Senco.
>> See what Senco's website has to say before you spend more money. Or,
>> call their support folks. It's a quality product, they'll take care of
>> you and help you if you can be helped.
>
> This is a good idea. I should contact their tech support to see if
> they can help me with this.
There ya go. Nice thing about buying top-notch stuff is that that's an
option.
On 7 Dec 2005 20:01:09 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
[email protected] quickly quoth:
>It is a Senco FinishPro-18 brad nailer that comes with a small air
>compressor (1 hp, 1 gal).
>
>I have just tried toe-nailing. This time I press the nailing head
>firmly against the wood at 45-degree before I hit the trigger. But the
>result is the same. The nail is sticking out by 1/16" (on soft wood
>like pine) (or 1/8" in dense wood like MDF). I would much rather that
>it was counter-sunk or flush with the surface.
Jay, if you simply must use toenailing, try a shorter brad and a few
more brads per project. Also think about switching to pocket screws
instead, if your project wood thickness could support it.
If you're concerned with the compressor, add a 5-gallon storage tank
near the nailer. Did you buy the PC0947 kit? That noisy little bastid
of a 1hp compressor should easily handle a nailer at full speed.
One last question: Have you tried any other brands of nails? Perhaps
one with a sharper tip would work better. If you have a belt sander,
you can see if a sharper tip on a strip of existing nails helps. I use
one to pare down my 1-1/4" brads for my 1-3/16" gun. (Newbie mistake,
last minute purchase; luckily only a 1k box. :) <big sigh>
=========================================================
The Titanic. The Hindenburg. + http://www.diversify.com
The Clintons. + Website & Graphic Design
=========================================================
On 7 Dec 2005 19:47:48 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
[email protected] quickly quoth:
>I am currently working on the assumption that the air compressor is not
>up to the task. The small air compression that comes with the Senco
>brad nailer automatically cut off at 120 PSI and cannot be adjusted
>upward. I am wondering if a higher PSI would make a difference. May I
>ask you what is the PSI of the regulator in your air compressor when
>you successfully toe nail using a brad nail?
I don't toenail, I screw SPF framing members together when possible.
<g>
Most guns want 90psi max, too, so I doubt it's your pressure. Check
your volume to the gun, though. Is it worse with
rapid-fire? That would indicate a feed volume problem. Have you
rebuilt the Senco yet? Pulling it down and cleaning it can make a big
difference in an air tool. Sometimes pieces of debris (specifically
teflon tape) get in the inlet and ruin performance. (Gummed vanes in
rotary tools cause the same performance hit.)
>> Even my $15 Harbor Fright nailer and $24 HFT stapler
>> will sink a staple or brad head beneath the surface.
>
>Yes, my Senco is also able to counter sink a nail -- when it is _not_
>toe-nailing.
Could it be your method? Watch your hand while you hit the trigger for
a toenailing shot. If it moves, try holding it perfectly still. This
is especially critical with longer nails. What length are you
shooting? It's possible that the gun you're using isn't up to the
task for that length nail and the type of wood you're using.
=========================================================
The Titanic. The Hindenburg. + http://www.diversify.com
The Clintons. + Website & Graphic Design
=========================================================
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>Seem like there is something wrong with
> shooting a nail at an angle that cause the nail not be able to
> penetrate into the wood completely.
The problem is that the nose piece of the gun isn't held against the wood
when nailing at an angle. It is always a little ways away. I have never had
much luck with it. If you keep the angle very shallow so the gun is as
perpendicular to the wood as posible, it may work. If there is a rubber
bumper on the nose of the gun, remove it. That will allow you to get closer.
>
> Seem like the suggestion of using pocket screws is becoming more and
> more like a much better idea than trying to toe nail. Or I need to
> make some 90-degree brace-angles and use it with clamps to align two
> pieces of woods together. Anyway, the idea of toe nailing seems to be
> fading away fast -- at least for me.
>
> Jay Chan
>
>
> [email protected] wrote:
> > Thanks for everyone who has replied.
> >
> > Seem like the small air compressor is not the one that causes me
> > trouble when I try to toe-nail because 120 PSI should be enough.
> >
> > I don't remember what size nails that I used. I believe it is one size
> > above the shortest one. I will check it out when I get back home, and
> > I will try toe-nailing with the shortest nails; unfortunately, I have a
> > feeling that this is not practical because the shortest nails will not
> > have enough holding power to hold the horizontal and vertical pieces
> > together.
> >
> > I probably want to focus back on the nailer itself, and I will check if
> > the telfon tape is blocking the air flow or not. The nailer is very
> > clean because I have not had enough chance to use it a lot. Therefore,
> > I doubt that there will be something blocking the air flow.
> >
> > Let me ask everyone who has Senco FinishPro-18 a question:
> > Let's say you put 1.25" 18-gauge nails in the nailer, and adjust the
> > depth-of-drive to as deep as possible. And then you shoot one nail onto
> > a piece of softwood (pine), such as a 2x4. How deep is the nail below
> > the surface of the wood? When I tried this last night, the nail is
> > something like 1/16" below the surface. I want to hear how other
> > people experience are. Thanks.
> >
> > Jay Chan
>
I'm not sure of the exact pressure that they recommend but I doubt if they
recommend running it at that high of pressure. 85 to 100 psi would be more
normal. Before turning it up that high, read the manual. Sever damage can
result at to high a pressure.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It is a Senco FinishPro-18 brad nailer that comes with a small air
> compressor (1 hp, 1 gal).
>
> I have just tried toe-nailing. This time I press the nailing head
> firmly against the wood at 45-degree before I hit the trigger. But the
> result is the same. The nail is sticking out by 1/16" (on soft wood
> like pine) (or 1/8" in dense wood like MDF). I would much rather that
> it was counter-sunk or flush with the surface.
>
> And I have adjusted the depth-of-drive to the maximum depth.
>
> I have the feeling that the air compressor may not be up to the task.
> It automatically cuts off at 120 PSI and there is nothing I can do to
> adjust it upward. What's the PSI that your air compressor is running
> at when you toe-nail a short brad nail into soft wood like pine or
> dense wood?
>
> Thanks for any follow-up info in advance.
>
> Jay Chan
>
> Dave Jackson wrote:
> > Exactly what type of nailer (framing, finishing or brad) are you using?
I
> > own nearly the full line of Senco nailers and have no problems with
> > toenailing, however it does require holding the gun FIRMLY against the
board
> > your nailing into. If the gun is not held firmly enough, often the gun
will
> > bounce when it is fired causing the nail to stick out. Also, the "angle
of
> > attack" may influence how the nail is set. 45-60 degrees or so seems to
wok
> > best with my guns. --dave
> >
> > <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > >I am looking for a nailer that I will use it for nothing but
> > > toe-nailing two pieces of woods together (as a way to clamp them
> > > together). I already have a set of nailers; but somehow I cannot use
> > > them for toe-nailing (the nail will stick out by 1/8" or more).
> > > Therefore, I need a nailer that can do toe-nailing.
> > >
> > > Because it is a single purpose tool that I probably won't use often, I
> > > want it to cost very little. I am looking at the nailers from Harbor
> > > Freight, and they have some very low cost nailers (as low as $20).
But
> > > I have no idea which one can do toe-nailer properly. Can someone tell
> > > me where I can find a low cost nailer that can do toe-nailer?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance for any suggestion.
> > >
> > > Jay Chan
>
<[email protected]> wrote in message
> Seem like there is something wrong with
> shooting a nail at an angle that cause the nail not be able to
> penetrate into the wood completely.
Dollars to donuts that "something", with your particular tool, is the angle
of the head of the nail gun when toenailing.
IOW, not being in full contact with the surface of the material being
nailed, the extra distance the brad must travel is just enough to keep it
from penetrating to the desired depth.
IME, most _brad_ nailers will not toe-nail consistently. Neither of mine
will (Delta and HF), I would suspect that with those that will, it is more
or less luck of the draw.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/05
On 7 Dec 2005 09:57:40 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
[email protected] quickly quoth:
>> Take one of the nailers that you already own. Adjust the depth-of-drive
>> to countersink the nail. Use same for toe-nailing. Cost you just a bit
>> of time and testing on some scrap lumber.
>
>This is odd. I have adjusted the depth of drive of my existing nailer
>to the max and I still cannot countersink the nail. The nailer is
>Senco that is supposed to be good.
Possible solutions:
1) Use a shorter nail
or
2) Adjust the air pressure up
or
3) Clean and re-oil the thing so it works properly.
or
4) All of the above.
Even my $15 Harbor Fright nailer and $24 HFT stapler
will sink a staple or brad head beneath the surface.
=========================================================
The Titanic. The Hindenburg. + http://www.diversify.com
The Clintons. + Website & Graphic Design
=========================================================
Exactly what type of nailer (framing, finishing or brad) are you using? I
own nearly the full line of Senco nailers and have no problems with
toenailing, however it does require holding the gun FIRMLY against the board
your nailing into. If the gun is not held firmly enough, often the gun will
bounce when it is fired causing the nail to stick out. Also, the "angle of
attack" may influence how the nail is set. 45-60 degrees or so seems to wok
best with my guns. --dave
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am looking for a nailer that I will use it for nothing but
> toe-nailing two pieces of woods together (as a way to clamp them
> together). I already have a set of nailers; but somehow I cannot use
> them for toe-nailing (the nail will stick out by 1/8" or more).
> Therefore, I need a nailer that can do toe-nailing.
>
> Because it is a single purpose tool that I probably won't use often, I
> want it to cost very little. I am looking at the nailers from Harbor
> Freight, and they have some very low cost nailers (as low as $20). But
> I have no idea which one can do toe-nailer properly. Can someone tell
> me where I can find a low cost nailer that can do toe-nailer?
>
> Thanks in advance for any suggestion.
>
> Jay Chan
>
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am looking for a nailer that I will use it for nothing but
> toe-nailing two pieces of woods together (as a way to clamp them
> together). I already have a set of nailers; but somehow I cannot use
> them for toe-nailing (the nail will stick out by 1/8" or more).
> Therefore, I need a nailer that can do toe-nailing.
>
> Because it is a single purpose tool that I probably won't use often, I
> want it to cost very little. I am looking at the nailers from Harbor
> Freight, and they have some very low cost nailers (as low as $20). But
> I have no idea which one can do toe-nailer properly. Can someone tell
> me where I can find a low cost nailer that can do toe-nailer?
>
> Thanks in advance for any suggestion.
Have you tried a hammer?
The finish nailer is unlikely to be any different.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Swingman wrote:
> > <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >
> > > Seem like there is something wrong with
> > > shooting a nail at an angle that cause the nail not be able to
> > > penetrate into the wood completely.
> >
> > Dollars to donuts that "something", with your particular tool, is the
angle
> > of the head of the nail gun when toenailing.
> >
> > IOW, not being in full contact with the surface of the material being
> > nailed, the extra distance the brad must travel is just enough to keep
it
> > from penetrating to the desired depth.
> >
> > IME, most _brad_ nailers will not toe-nail consistently. Neither of mine
> > will (Delta and HF), I would suspect that with those that will, it is
more
> > or less luck of the draw.
> >
> > --
> > www.e-woodshop.net
> > Last update: 11/06/05
>
> I think you are right. The nailer head cannot maintain a good contact
> with the wood surface when I use the brad nailer for toe-nailing. And
> this probably creates the problem.
>
> If brad nailers are not appropriate for toe-nailing, sound like I
> should try my finish-nailer for toe-nailing to see if it works better.
> I didn't think of using finish-nailer for toe-nailing because finish
> nails may be too long for toe-nailing. I may try the shortest finish
> nails to see if they work better than the brad nails. If finish nailer
> doesn't work well either, I will have to use pocket screws.
>
> Jay Chan
>
[email protected] writes:
[...]
> nails to see if they work better than the brad nails. If finish nailer
> doesn't work well either, I will have to use pocket screws.
If the time and effort of doing pocket screws is acceptable you cpould
also consider an old-style nailer, AKA hammer.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
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